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taire 


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illustrent  la  mdthode. 


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CANADA : 


ITS 


DEFENCES,  CONDITION,  AND  RESOURCES. 


mmtm 


CANADA: 


ITS 


DEFENCES,  COXDITION,  AND  UESOURrES. 


BF.INO 


A  SECOND   AND  CONOLUDTNO   VOLUMK  OF   "MY   DIARY,  NORTH 

AND  SOUTH."' 


BY 


W.   HOWARD   RUSSELL,  LL.D. 


BOSTON: 
T.    O.    H.    P.    BURN  HAM. 

NEW   YORK:  0.   S.   FELT. 
18G5. 


I  ' 


K 


RIVERSISE,    CAMBRIDGE  : 

ri-KBKOTYPED    AND    PRINTED    BT 

H.    0.   BOUnUXOX   AJSD    COMPANY. 


1  fcjM*''^"  tr^r-- 


--IT, 


PREFACE. 


I  BEGAN  to  write  this  book  by  way  of  sequel  to 
"  My  Diary  North  and  South,"  with  the  intention  of 
describing  Canada  as  I  saw  it  at  the  close  of  my 
visit  to  North  America,  but  the  subject  grew  upon 
me  as  I  went  on,  and  at  last  I  discarded  much  per- 
sonal detail,  and  set  to  work  with  the  view  of  calling 
attention  to  the  capabilities  of  the  vast  regions  be- 
longing to  the  British  Crown  on  the  American  Con- 
tinent, and  of  pointing  out  the  magnificent  heritage 
which  is  open  to  our  redundant  population.  But  the 
subject  was  too  great  for  the  compass  of  one  volume, 
because  connected  with  it,  too  intimately  to  be  over- 
looked, were  the  questions  of  the  defence  and  of 
the  future  of  countries,  which  the  establishment  of 
a  moiiarchical  principle  on  an  imperfect  basis,  and 
their  dependence  on  the  Crown,  exposed  to  the  hos- 
tility of  a  great  republic.  I  was  therefore  obliged 
to  contract  my  own  experiences,  small  as  they  were, 
and  to  omit  many  topics  included  in  the  original 
scope  of  my  writing.  The  book  was  nearly  finished 
when  suddenly,  as  it  seemed,  the  whole  of  the  Prov- 
inces, yielding  to  a  common  sentiment  of  danger, 
sent  their  delegates  to  consider  the  policy  and  possi- 


vi 


PREFACE. 


II 


bility  of  p  great  Confederation,  which  had  been 
strongly  recommended  in  the  pages  already  written. 
The  idea  of  such  a  Confederation  was  an  old  one ; 
but  the  prompt  resolve  to  carry  it  into  practical  effect, 
and  the  words  spoken  and  acts  done  in  consequence, 
rendered  it  necessary  to  cancel  the  work  of  many 
hours,  as  much  of  what  I  had  written  would  have 
been  anticipated  by  what  has  been  printed.  There 
are  many  dangers  inherent  in  the  nature  of  the 
proposed  Confederation  ;  there  are  many  obstacles 
to  its  harmonious  and  successful  working;  but  on 
the  whole  some  such  scheme  appears  to  be  the 
only  practical  mode  of  saving  the  British  Provinces 
from  the  aggression  of  the  North  American  Repub- 
licans. 

What  is  to  become  of  the  existing  Governments 
of  Provinces?  How  regulate  the  contentions  which 
may  arise  between  Provincial  Parliaments  and  Pro- 
vincial Ministers  and  Provincial  Governors  by  the 
action  of  the  Federal  Parliament  and  of  the  repre- 
sentative of  the  Crown  at  the  seat  of  Government  ? 
The  difficulties  we  foresee  may  never  come  to  pass, 
and  others  far  greater,  of  which  we  have  no  foresight, 
may  arise ;  but  for  all  this  the  Confederation  presents 
the  only  means  now  available,  as  far  as  we  can  per- 
ceive, for  securing  to  the  Provinces  present  indepen- 
dence and  a  future  political  life  distinct  from  the 
turbulent  existence  of  the  United  States.  A  glance 
at  the  map  will  reveal  the  extent  of  the  Empire 
which  rests  upon  the  Lakes  with  one  arm  on  the 
Atlantic  and  the  other  on  the  T>acific,  whilst  its  face 
is  wrapped  in  a  mantle  of  eternal  snow ;  but  it  tells 
us  no  more.     No  reasoninsr  man  can  maintain  that 


PREFACE. 


Vll 


the  people  whom  a  few  years  will  behold  as  numer- 
ous as  the  inhabitants  of  these  islands,  will  be  con- 
tent to  live  permanently  under  the  system  of  the 
Colonial  Office.  That  system  is  probably  the  only 
one  our  Constitution  permits  us  to  adopt;  but  it  is 
nevertheless  the  policy,  if  not  the  duty,  of  this  State 
to  foster  the  youth  and  early  life  of  the  colonies  we 
have  founded,  and  to  protect  them,  as  far  as  may  be, 
from  the  evils  which  shall  come  upon  them  in  conse- 
quence of  their  p'^eseni  connection  with  great  Britain. 
Despised,  neglected,  and  abandoned,  the  Provinces 
would  feel  less  irritation  against  their  conquerors 
than  against  their  betrayers,  and  England  might  re- 
gret with  unavailing  sorrow  the  indifference  which 
left  her  without  a  foot  of  land  or  a  friend  in  the  New 
World.  Generosity  not  inconsistent  with  justice 
may  yet  lay  the  foundations  of  an  enduring  alliance 
where  once  there  was  only  cold  fealty  and  unsympa- 
thizing  command.  A  powerful  State  may  arise 
whose  greatest  citizens  shall  be  proud  to  receive 
such  honors  as  the  Monarch  of  England  can  bestow, 
whose  people  shall  vie  with  us  in  the  friendly  con- 
tests of  commerce,  and  stand  side  by  side  with  us  in 
battle.  And  when  the  inevitable  hour  of  separation 
comes,  the  parting  will  not  then  be  in  anger.  A 
Constitutional  Republic,  in  which  Monarchy  would 
have  been  possible  but  for  the  prudence  of  the  mother- 
country,  may  exist  without  any  hatred  of  Monarchy 
or  of  England ;  and  the  people,  born  with  equal 
rights  to  pursue  liberty  and  happiness,  would  love 
the  land  from  which  flowed  the  sources  of  so  many 
substantial  blessings. 

I    hope  that  my   apprehensions   may   prove  ill- 


via 


PREFACE. 


founded,  and  that  the  dangers  to  which  our  North 
American  possessions  now,  and  England  herself  and 
the  peace  of  the  world  hereafter,  are  in  my  opinion 
exposed,  may  be  forever  averted. 

WILLIAM   HOWARD    RUSSELL. 
Temple,  January,  18f^6 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  I. 


Introductory.  —  Canada  nnd  the  Mason  and  Slidcll  Case.  —  Threats 
of  Annexation.  —  Defence  of  Canada. —  Reasons  for  Visitin^j  tlio 
British  Provinces.  —  Illness  at  New  York.  —  Hostility  disphiyed 
there.  —  Monotony  of  New  York.  —  Hotel  Life.  —  "  Birds  of  a 
Feather."  —  Nationality  ab«(orl)<>d.  —  Start  for  Canada.  —  Kail- 
way  Companions.  — Public  Credulity.  —  A  Victory  in  the  Papers. 
History  of  "A  Big  Fight."  —  General  Pumpkin  and  Jefferson  Brick . 


PAGE 


CHAPTER  II. 

To  the  Station.  —  Stars  and  Stripes.  —  Crowd  at  Station.  —  Train  im- 
peded by  Snow.  —  Classic  Ground. — "  Manhattan."  —  "  Yonkers." 
Fellow- Travellers  and  their  Ways.  —  "  Beauties  of  the  Hudson." 
West  Point:  their  Education,  &c.  —  Large  Towns  on  the  Banks 
of  the  Hudson.  —  Arrive  at  Fast  Albany. —  Delavan  House. — 
Beds  at  a  Premium.  —  Aspect  of  Albany  not  impressive.  —  Sights. 
The  Legislature 15 


CHAPTER  III. 

Unpleasant  Journey  to  Niagara.  —  Mr.  Seward.  —  The  Union  and  its 
Dangers.  —  Pass  Butfalo.  —  Arrival  at  Niagara.  —  A  "  Touter." 
Bad  Weather.  —  The  Koad.  —  Climate  compared.  —  Desolate  Ap- 
pearance of  Houses. —  The  St.  Lawrence  viewed  from  above. — 
One  Hundred  Years  ago.  —  Canada  the  great  Object  of  the  Amer- 
icans. —  The  Welland  Canal.  —  Effect  of  the  Falls  from  a  Distance. 
Gradual  Approach.  —  Less  Volume  of  Water  in  Winter.  —  Differ- 
ent Effect  and  Dangers  in  Winter.  —  Icicles. —  Behind  the  Cata- 
ract. —  Photographs  and  Bazaar.  —  Visit  the  "  Lions  "  generally. 
Brock.  —  American  and  Canadian  Sides  contrasted.  —  Goat  Island. 
A  Whisper  heard.  —  Mills  and  Manufactories         .... 


25 


CHAPTER   IV. 

Leave  Niagara.  —  Suspension  Bridge.  —  In  British  Territory.  —  Ham- 
ilton City.  — Buildings.  —  Proceed  Eastward.  —  Toronto.  —  Dine  at 
Mess.  —  Pay  Visits.  —  Public  Edifices.  —  Sleighs.  —  Amusement 
of  the  Boys.  —  Camaraderie  in  the  Army.  —  Kindly  Feeling  dis- 

l* 


[I 


CONTENTS, 


PAGE 


Slayed.  —  Journey  resumed  towards  Quebec.  —  Intense  Cold. — 
now  Landscape'.  —  Morning  in  the  Train.  —  Hunger  and  lesser 
T'*ouble8.  —  Kingston,  its  Rise  and  military  Tosition;  Harbor, 
Docliyards;  Its  Connection  with  the  Prince  of  Wales's  Tour. — 
The  Upper  St.  Lawrence.  —  Canada  as  to  Defence  ....      47 

CHAPTER  V. 

Arrive  at  Cornwall. — The  St.  Lawrence. — Gossip  on  India.  —  As- 
pect of  the  Country.  —  Montreal.  —  The  St.  Lawrence  Hall  Hotel. 
Story  of  a  (iuardsman.  —  Hiirnside.  —  Dinner.  —  Refuse  a  Ban- 
quet. —  Fiaga.  —  ('llmate.  —  Siilon-a-man-qer.  —  Contrast  o."  Amer- 
icans and  English.  —  Sleighs.  — The  "  Driving  Club."  — The  Vic- 
toria Bridge.  —  Uneasy  l-'celing.  —  Monument  to  Irish  Emigrants. 
Irish  Character.  —  Montreal  and  New  York.  —  The  Kink.  —  Sir  E. 
Williams.  —  Influence  of  the  Northerners 62 


CHAPTER  VI. 

Visit  the  "Lions"  of  Montreal.  —  The  \1{\\  Regiment.  —  The  City 
open  to  Attack.  —  Quays,  Public  Buildings.  —  French  Coloniza- 
tion.—  Rise  of  MoK.real. — Stone.  —  A  French-Anglicized  City.  - 
Loj'alty  of  Canadians.  —Arrival  of  Troops.  —  Facings. —  British 
and  American  Army  compared.  —  Experience  needed  by  Latter.  — 
Slavery 76 

CHAPTER  VII. 

First  View  of  Quebec.  —  Passage  of  the  St.  Lawrence.  —  Novel  and 
rather  alarming  Situation.  —  Russell's  Hotel.  —  The  Falls  of  Mont- 
morenci,  and  the  "  Cone."  —  Aspect  of  the  City.  —  The  Point.  — 
"  Tarboggining."  —  l)p.scription  of  the  "  Cone."  —  Audacit}'  of  one 
of  my  Companions.  —  A  Canadian  Dinner.  —  Call  on  the  Governor. 
Visit  the  Citadel.  —  Its  Position. —  Capabilities  for  Defence. — 
View  from  Parapet.  —  The  Armory.  —  Old  Muskets.  —  Red-tape 
Thoughtfulnesa.  —  Erencli  and  English  Occupation  of  Quebec.  — 
Strength  of  Quebec 88 

CHAPTER  VHI. 

Lower  Canada  and  Ancient  France. ^^  Soldiers  in  Garrison  at  Que- 
bec.—  Canadian  Volunteers. —  The  Governor-General  Viscount 
Monck.  —  Uniform  in  the  United  States.  —  A  Sleighing  Party. — 
Dinner  and  Calico  UaH   . 107 

CHAPTER  IX. 

Canadian  View  of  the  American  Struggle.  —  English  Officers  in  the 
States.  —  My  own  Position  in  the  States  and  in  Canada.  —  The 
Ursulines  in  Quebec.  —  General  Montcalm.  —  French  Canadians. 
Imperial  Honors.  —  Celts  and  Saxons.  —  Salmon  Fishing.  —  Early 
Government  of  Canada.  —  Past  and  Future 113 


y 


^     i«k. 


CONTENTS. 


XI 


CHAPTER    X. 


PAGB 


Canadian  Hospitality.  —  Muffins.  —  Departure  for  the  Statcn.  —  Deser- 
tions.—  Montreal  aguin.  —  Southerners  in  Montreal.  —  Drill  and 
Snow-Shoes.  —  Winter  Campaigning.  —  Snow-Drifts.  —  Military 
Discontent 131 

CHAPTE      XI. 

Extent  of  Canada.  —  The  Lakes.  — Canadian  Wealth.  —  Early  His- 
tory.—  Jacques  Cartier. —  English  and  French  Colonists.  —  Colo- 
nial and  Acadian  Troubles.  —  La  Salle.  —  Border  Conflicts.  —  Early 
Expeditions.  —  Invasions  from  New  England.  —  Louisburg  and 
Ticonderoga.  —  The  Colonial  Insurrection.  —  Partition  of  Canada. 
Progress  of  Upper  Canada.  —  France  and  Canada.  —  The  Ameri- 
can Invasion.  — Winter  Campaign.  —  New  Orleans  and  Plattsburg. 
Peace  of  Ghent.  —  Political  Controversies.  —  Winter  Communica- 
tion. —  Sentiments  of  Hon.  Joseph  Howe.  —  General  View  of  Im- 
perial and  Colonial  Relations 140 

CHAPTER  XII. 

The  Militia.  —  American  Intentions.  —  Instability  of  the  Volunteer  , 

Principle.  —  The  Drilling  of  Militia.  —  The  Commission  of  1862.  — 
The  Duke  of  Newcastle's  Views.  —  Militia  Schemes.  —  Volunteer 
Force.  —  Apathy  of  the  French  Canadians.  —  The  First  Summons    1.77 


CHAPTER  XIII. 

Possible  Dangers.  —  The  Future  Danger.  —  Open  to  Attack.  —  Canals 
and  Railways.  —  Probable  Lines  of  Invasion. — Lines  of  Attack 
pnd  Defence.  —  London.  —  Toronto.  —  Defences  of  Kingston.  — 
Defences  of  Quebec. a       •        •        • 


197 


CHAPTER  XIV. 

Rapid  Increase  of  Population.  — Mineral  Wealth.  —  Cereals. —  Imports 
and  Exports.  —  Climate.  —  Agriculture.  —  A  Settler's  Life    . 


213 


CHAPTER  XV. 

Reciprocal  Rights. — American  Ideas  of  Reciprocity.  —  The  Ad  Valo- 
rem System.  —  Commercial  Improvements.  —  Trade  with  Amer- 
ica. —  The  Ottawa  Route.  —  The  Saskatchewan.  —  Fertility  of  the 
Country.  —  Water  Communication.  —  The  Maritime  Provinces.  — 
Area  and  Population 229 


CHAPTER  XVI. 

The  "Ashburton  Capitulation." —Roundaries  of  Quebec.  —  Arbitra- 
tion in  1831.  —  Lord  Ashburton's  Mission.  —  The  Questions  in  Dis- 
pute. —  "  The  Sea  "  v. «'  The  Atlantic."  ~  American  Diplomatists. 
Franklin's  Red  Line.  —  Compromise.  —  The  Maps.  —  Maine.  — 


ZIl 


CONTENTS. 


Damage  to  Canada.  —  Mr.  Webster's  Defence.  —  His  Opinion  of 
the  Koud.  —  Value  of  the  Heights.  — Our  Share  of  Ec^uivalents.  — 
Vaiue  of  Rouse's  Point.  —  Vermont.  —  New  Hampshire 


PAOB 


250 


CHAPTER  XVII. 

The  Acadian  Confederation.  —  Union  is  Strength.  —  The  Provinces. 
New  Brunswick.  —  I'lie  Temperature.  —  Trade  of  St.  John.  —  Cli- 
mate and  Agriculture  of  Nova  Scotia.  —  Prince  Edward  Island.  — 
Newfoundland.  —  The  Red  River  District.  —  Assiniboia.  —  The 
Red  River  Valley.  —  Minnesota  and  the  West.  —  The  Hudson's 
.  Bay  Company  —  Their  Territory.  —  The  Northwest  Regions.  — 
Climate  of  Wmnipeg  Basin  —  Its  Area.  — Finances  of  the  Confed- 
eration.—  Imports,  Exports,  and  Tonnage.  —  Proposed  Federal 
Coustitutiou.  —  Lessons  from  the  American  Struggle.    . 


274 


CANADA: 


ITS  DEFENCES,  CONDITION,  AND  RESOURCES. 


CHAPTER  I. 


Introductory.  —  Canada  and  the  Mason  and  Slidell  Case.  —  Threats  of 
Annexation.  —  Defence  of  Canada.  —  Reasons  for  Visiting  the  British 
Provinces.  —  Illness  at  New  York.  —  Hostility  displayed  there.  —  Mo- 
notony of  New  York.  —  Hotel  Life.  —  "  Birds  of  a  Featlier."  — National- 
ity absorbed.  —  Start  for  Canada.  —  Railway  Companions.  —  Public 
Credulity.  —A Victory  in  the  Papers.  —  History  of  "  A  Big  Fight."  — 
General' Pumpkin  and  Jefferson  Brick. 

I  DO  not  pretend  to  offer  any  new  observations  on 
the  climate,  soil,  or  capabilities  of  Canada,  nor  can  I 
venture  to  call  these  pages  a  "  work  "  on  that  great 
province.  I  have  nothing  novel  to  advance  in  the 
hope  of  attracting  an  immigration  to  its  wide-spread 
territories,  and  any  statistical  facts  and  figures  I  may 
use  are  accessible  to  all  interested  in  the  commerce 
or  in  the  past,  present,  and  future  of  the  land. 

Nor  do  1  write  with  any  particular  theory  in  view, 
or  with  any  crotchet  on  the  subject  of  colonies,  out- 
lying provinces,  and  dependencies,  and  their  value  or 
detriment  to  the  dominant  commercial  and  imperial 
power. 

My  actual  acquaintance  with  the  country  and  the 
people  is  only  such  as  I  acquired  in  a  few  weeks' 
travelling  in  the  depth  of  winter;  and  such  sort  of 
knowledge  as  I  gathered  would  certainly  afford  no 
great  excuse  in  itself  for  intruding  my  remarks  or 
opinions  on  the  public  when  so  many  excellent  books 
on  Canada  already  exist. 


,iSb. 


2  CANADA. 

But  it  happened  that  my  visit  took  place  at  a  very 
remarkable  period  of  Canadian  and  American  his- 
tory, and  at  a  tinqe,  too,  when  certain  doctrine -^^ 
broached  not  for  the  first  time,  but  urged  with  more 
than  usual  ability,  as  to  the  relations  between  what 
for  convenience  I  call  the  mother-country  and  her 
colonies,  were  exciting  great  attention  across  the 
Atlantic. 

When  I  left  Washington  in  the  winter,  a  great 
crisis  had  been  peacefully  but  not  willingly  averted 
by  a  concession  on  the  part  of  the  Federal  Govern- 
ment to  what  the  sentiment  of  the  American  people 
considered  an  exhibition  of  brute  force.  The  first 
year  of  the  war  had  closed  over  the  Federals  in 
gloom.  Their  arms  were  not  wielded  with  credit  at 
home,  —  if  credit  ever  can  attach  to  arms  wielded  in 
a  civil  war,  —  and  the  foreign  power  which  it  had 
been  their  wont  to  trent  With  something  as  near 
akin  to  disrespect  as  diplomatic  decency  would  per- 
mit, aroused  by  an  act  which  outraged  the  laws  of 
nations  and  provoked  the  censure  of  every  European 
power  with  business  on  the  waters,  had  made  prep- 
arations which  could  only  imply  that  she  would 
have  recourse  to  hostility  if  her  demands  for  satis- 
faction were  refused. 

It  was  under  these  circumstances  that  England 
obtained  the  reparation  for  whl^h  she  sought,  and  in 
the  eyes  of  Americans  filched  a  triumph  over  their 
flag  and  took  an  insolent  advantage  over  their  weak- 
ened power  "  to  do  as  they  pleased."  General  Mc- 
Clellan,  playing  the  part  of  Fabius,  perhaps  because 
he  knew  not  how  to  play  any  other  part,  had  fallen 
sick  and  was  nigh  at  death's  door  in  the  malarious 
winter  at  Washington.  The  great  Union  army,  like 
a  hybernating  eel  in  the  mud,  lay  motionless,  between 
the  Potomac  and  the  clever  imposture  of  the  Con- 
federate lines  and  wooden  batteries  at  Manassas. 

But  haughty  and  hopeful  as  ever,  in  tone  if  not 
in  heart,  the  Americans  raved  about  vengeance  for 


RIDICULE  OF  THE  AMERICAN  PRESS. 


3 


their  own  just  concessions.  They  boasted  that  the 
seizure  of  Canada  would  be  one  of  the  measures  of 
retaliation  to  which  they  intended  promptly  to  resort, 
as  the  indemnity  to  their  injured  vanity  and  as  com- 
pensation for  the  surrender  of  Messrs.  Mason  and 
Siidell. 

Meanwhile  the  small  force  of  British  troops  sta- 
tioned in  Canada  was  reinforced  by  the  speedy  dis- 
patch of  some  picked  regiments  from  England,  which 
did  not  raise  it  much  beyond  its  regular  strength, 
and  tardy  steps  were  taken  to  organize  an  efficient 
militia  in  the  province.  The  volunteer  movement 
had  extended  its  influence  across  the  ocean,  and  a 
commendable  activity  all  over  the  British  Colonies 
and  Canada  falsified  the  complacent  statements  of 
the  American  papers  that  the  people  were  not  loyal 
to  the  Crown  nor  careful  of  the  connection,  which, 
it  was  alleged,  they  would  gladly  substitute  for  the 
protection  of  the  standard  of  the  Northern  Republic. 

All  these  necessary  precautions  against  the  conse- 
quences of  the  refusal  of  the  America.!  Government 
to  yield  the  passengers  taken  from  ui.der  our  flag, 
were  watched  angrily  and  jealously  in  the  States. 
The  British  reinforcements  were  ridiculed ;  their  tedi- 
ous passages,  their  cheerless  marches,  were  jeeringly 
chronicled.  Whole  ships  were  reported  to  have  gone 
down  with  living  cargoes.  Those  who  landed  were 
represented  as  being  borne  on  sleighs  by  sufferance 
routes,  which  would  be  impracticable  in  war.  The 
Canadians  were  abused  —  and  so  were  the  Provin- 
cialists.  The  volunteers  were  assailed  'wii^h  the 
weapons  which  the  American  press  knows  so  well 
how  to  use. 

But  that  was  false  policy.  It  gave  a  stimulus  to 
the  loyal  feeling  of  the  subjects  of  the  Crown.  The 
Canadian  press  retorted,  and,  exulting  in  the  triumph 
of  the  Home  Government  over  the  Republican  Ad- 
ministration, uttered  the  taunts  which  Americans 
least  brook  to  hear. 


CANADA. 


It  was  assumed  that  the  task  of  vengeance  and 
conquest  would  be  light.  I  received  letters  in  which 
it  was  maintained  that  Canada  could  not  be  de- 
fended, and  that  she  was  not  worth  defending ; 
others  merely  urged  that  if  the  Canadians  would  not 
take  a  prominent  part  in  aid  of  imperial  measures 
for  their  protection,  they  must  be  handed  over  to  the 
invading  Americans;  that  their  country  cost  more 
than  it  was  worth,  and  that  it  was  a  mistake  to  keep 
any  connection  with  the  wrong  side  of  the  ledger, 
no  matter  what  the  results  of  rupturing  it  might  be. 

Americans  told  me  "  General  Scott  declares  the 
Canadian  frontier  is  not  capable  of  defence."  True, 
Americans  had  told  me  some  months  ago  that  Gen- 
eral Scott,  now  mis  en  retraite  in  New  York,  after  a 
hasty  return  from  Europe,  —  not,  as  was  asserted, 
with  diplomatic  authority  or  with  the  view  of  invad- 
ing Canada,  but  to  save  his  pension  in  case  of  for- 
eign war,  —  would  be  in  Richmond  about  July  22d 
or  24th,  1861.  I  heard  some  views  of  the  same  kind 
from  our  own  officers,  who  expressed  doubts  respect- 
ing the  possibility  of  a  successful  resistance  to  Amer- 
ican invasion. 

Now  if  that  were  so,  it  struck  me  that  the  troops 
we  had  in  the  country  could  prove  but  of  little  use, 
and  that  at  the  same  time  the  relative  condition  of 
strength  between  the  United  States  and  Great  Brit- 
ain had  undergone  a  vital  change  in  face  of  the  very 
agencies  which  ought  to  have  established  more  solidly 
the  results  obtained  in  the  last  trial  of  force  and  re- 
sources between  them  on  Canadian  ground.  It  was 
worth  while  trying  to  ascertain  the  truth  and  to  re- 
solve these  questions. 

The  United  States,  dreading  a  foreign  war  which 
might  interfere  with  their  invasion  of  the  Southern 
States,  had  ungraciou"^ly  made  a  concession,  in  re- 
venge for  making  which  their  press  declared  they 
would  on  the  first  convenient  occasion  make  war  on 
the   Power  they  had  offended,  in  a  country  which 


FORTIFYING  THE  FRONTIER. 


f 


they  had  invaded  with  all  their  united  power  —  when 
Great  Britain,  steamless  and  remote,  was  engaged 
in  European  conflicts  and  destitute  of  maritime 
allies  —  only  to  meet  with  defeat,  or  with  success  of 
a  nature  to  prove  their  incompetency  to  conquer. 

Was  the  power  of  this  distracted  republic,  con- 
tending furiously  with  rebellious  members,  then,  be- 
come so  great  ?  If  so,  with  what  motive  was  Great 
Britain  hurrying  across  the  sea  the  ^lite  of  her  troops 
—  too  few  to  save  these  vast  domains,  too  many  to 
lose,  and  far  too  many  to  return  as  paroled  pris- 
oners ?  Why  try  to  defend  on  such  terms  what  was 
worthless  and  indefensible  ?  Canada,  if  not  suscep- 
tible of  defence,  would  be  certainly  unsuitable  as  a 
base  for  offensive  operations  against  the  States. 
Obviously  the  matter  stood  thus  :  that  the  military 
question  depended  on  the  temper  and  spirit  of  the 
people  themselves. 

The  whole  force  of  the  Canadians,  sustained  by 
Great  Britain,  might,  apparently,  defy  all  the  offen- 
sive power  of  the  United  States;  and  I  desired  to 
ascertain  in  what  condition  were  their  temper  and 
defences. 

At  this  time  British  officers  were  endeavoring  to 
prepare  the  possessions  of  the  Crown  against  threat- 
ened invasion.  The  Americans  on  their  side  were 
busy  fortifying  some  important  points  on  the  lakes. 

General  Totten,  an  officer  of  the  United  States 
Engineers,  well  known  for  his  ability,  was  under- 
stood to  be  engaged  on  a  very  elaborate  plan  of 
works  along  the  frontier.  Colonel  Gordon,  whose 
name  will  be  forever  associated  with  the  left  attack 
at  the  siege  of  Sebastopol,  aided  by  an  experienced 
staff",  was  employed  on  our  side,  studying  the  capa- 
bilities of  the  frontier,  and  maturing  a  pl^sn  for  the 
consideration  of  the  government  in  case  of  an  Amer- 
ican war. 

There  were  reasons,  too,  of  a  personal  character 
for  my  visiting  Canada.     I  had  a  fever,  which  was 


6 


CANADA. 


"    iiiiil 


contracted  at  Washington  and  laid  me  prostrate  at 
New  York.  It  was  "»f  the  low  typhoid  type,  which 
proved  fatal  to  so  many  in  the  Federal  army  at  the 
same  time,  and  its  effects  made  me  weaker  for  the 
time  than  I  ever  remember  to  have  been.  There 
was  no  promise  whatever  of  military  operations,  and 
I  read  every  day  of  the  arrival  of  friends  and  ac- 
quaintances in  Canada,  whose  faces  it  would  be 
pleasant  to  see,  after  the  endurance  of  so  many  hos- 
tile glances  and  such  public  exhibition  of  ill-will. 

I  do  not  wish  to  dwell  on  private  annoyances,  but 
as  an  instance  of  the  feeling  displayed  towards  me 
in  New  York  I  may  mention  one  circumstance.  On 
my  arrival  in  1861  I  was  elected  an  honorary  member 
of  the  club  which  derives  its  name  from  the  state  or 
city,  and  was  indebted  to  its  members  for  many  acts 
of  courtesy  and  for  more  than  one  entertainment. 
Returning  to  the  city  from  Washington  early  this 
year,  I  was  invited  to  dine  at  the  same  club  by  one 
or  two  of  my  friends.  Certain  members,  as  I  after- 
wards heard,  took  umbrage  at  my  presence,  and  fast- 
ened a  quarrel  on  my  entertainers.  A  day  or  two 
subsequently  the  people  of  New  York  were  called 
on,  by  the  notorious  journalist  who  had  honored  me 
with  his  animosity  ever  since  I  refused  the  dishonor 
of  his  acquaintance,  to  express  their  indignation  at 
the  conduct  of  the  club  ;  and  the  members  received 
a  characteristic  reprimand  for  their  presumption  in 
letting  me  into  the  club,  from  which  they  had  kept 
their  censor  and  his  clientelle  carefully  out.  My 
offence  was  rank ;  and  public  opinion  —  or  what  is 
called  so  —  perhaps  was  in  favor  of  the  ostracism  at 
that  moment ;  for,  as  far  as  I  know,  the  people  must 
have  believed  I  was  the  sole  cause  of  the  Federal 
defeat  and  flight  at  Bull  Run. 

There  was  some  novelty  in  the  idea  of  starting 
for  Canada  in  the  midst  of  the  bitter  winter  wind 
and  the  dazzling  snow ;  but  I  would  have  gone  to 
Nova  Zembla  at  the  time  to  have  escaped  the  mo- 


NEW  YORK  DEMOCRATS. 


7 


n 


notony  of  New  York,  which  the  effects  of  recent  ill- 
ness rendered  more  irksome. 

New  York  is  among  cities,  what  one  of  the  lower 
order  of  molluscous  animals,  with  a  single  intestinal 
canal,  is  to  a  creature  of  a  higher  development, 
with  various  organs,  and  full  of  veins  and  arteries. 
Up  and  down  the  Broadway  passes  the  stream  of 
life  to  and  from  the  heart  in  Wall  Street.  In  the 
narrow  space  from  water  to  water  on  either  side  of 
this  dry  canal  there  is  comparatively  little  anima- 
tion, and  nothing  at  all  to  reward  the  researches  of  a 
stranger. 

Johnson's  remark  about  Fleet  Street  would  apply 
with  truth  to  the  gawky  thoroughfare  of  the  Atlantic 
Tyre.  In  the  Broadway  or  its  "  west-end "  exten- 
sions are  to  be  found  all  the  hotels,  which  are  the 
ganglia  of  the  feverish  nervous  system  so  incessantly 
agitated  by  the  operations  of  the  journalistic  insects 
living  in  secret  cysts  nigh  at  hand.  All  day  the 
great  tideway  is  rolling  in,  headed  by  a  noisy  crest 
of  little  boys,  with  extras  under  their  arms,  and  her- 
alded by  a  confused  surfy  murmur  of  voices  telling 
"  lies "  for  cents,  and  enunciating  "  Another  Great 
Union  Victory  !  "  in  one  great  bore ;  or  it  is  rushing 
out  again  with  a  dismal  leaden  current,  laden  with 
doubts  and  fears,  as  the  news  of  some  disaster 
breaks  through  the  locks  of  government  reservoirs 
and  floods  the  press. 

In  my  hotel,  where  I  was  fain  to  seclude  myself  in 
my  illness,  and  to  follow  the  very  un-American  prac- 
tice of  living  in  a  suite  of  private  rooms,  there  was 
but  little  conflict  of  opinion  on  any  great  event,  real 
or  fictitious,  which  turned  up  from  day  to  day.  The 
guests  and  visitors  were  wellnigh  all  of  one  way  of 
thinking.  They  were  of  the  old  conservative  party, 
so  oddly  denominated  Democrats,  who  believed  in 
States  Rights :  in  the  right  of  states  to  create  and 
maintain  their  domestic  institutions  —  to  secede,  if 
they  pleased,  from  the  Union  —  to  resist  the  attempts 


8 


CANADA. 


of  the  General  Government  of  the  other  states  to 
coerce  them  by  force  of  arms. 

Some  of  these  gentlemen  were  satisfied  the  South 
would  not  be  coerced  ;  '  me  hoped  the  South  would 
resist  successfully.  No:  I  fear,  were  ♦'  loyal  "  to 
President  Lincoln  and  r»i..  Seward,  and  I  am  sure 
none  would  have  said  so  much  for  either  of  them  or 
their  friends  as  I  would. 

The  majority  principle  forces  people  who  hold  sim- 
ilar views  to  meet  together,  and  to  select  the  same 
hotels  to  live  in.  This  is  unfortunate  for  a  stranger 
who  desires  to  hear  the  views  of  both  sides.  In  the 
*'  New  York,"  from  the  highly  artistic  and  skilful  oper- 
ator who  flashed  out  cocktails  at  the  bar,  up  to  the 
highest  authority,  there  was  no  man  who  would  like 
to  say  that  he  was  on  good  terms  with  Mr.  Sumner, 
or  that  he  did  not  think  Mr.  Seward  the  representa- 
tive of  evil  principles.  The  rule  was  proved  by  the 
exceptions  :  two  I  suspect  there  were  —  stout  Irish 
waiters,  who  did  not  approve  of  the  attempts  to 
destroy  "  our  glorious  Union,"  but  who  did  not  find 
the  atmosphere  of  the  place  quite  favorable  to  the 
free  expression  of  the  opinion  they  mildly  hinted  at 
to  myself. 

The  sameness  of  ideas,  of  expressions,  of  faces, 
became  unbearable.  I  could  tell  quite  well  by  the 
look  of  men's  faces  what  news  they  had  heard,  and 
what  they  were  saying  or  going  to  say  about  it. 
Here  were  crafty  politicals  and  practical  men  of  busi- 
ness, and  persons  of  a  philosophical  and  reflective 
temperament,  as  well  as  the  foolish,  the  mere  pleas- 
ure-hunters, and  the  unthinking  mass  of  an  hotel 
world,  all  looking  forward  to  a  near  to-morrow  to 
jnd  the  woes  of  the  state,  always  waiting  for  a 
*  decisive  "  battle  or  "  an  indignant  uprising  of  the 
people  "  to  drive  the  Republicans  out  of  power  and 
office. 

Not  one  of  them  could  or  would  see  that  the  con- 
test, when  terminated,  would  give  birth  to  others  — 


AMERICAN   CONTEMPT   FOR  CANADA. 


0 


that  the  vast  bodies  of  divers  interests,  prejudices, 
hatreds,  and  wrongs  set  in  motion  by  war  over  so 
enormous  a  surface,  where  the}  had  been  kept  sus- 
pended and  inert  by  the  powers  of  compromise,  could 
never  be  reconsolidated  and  restored  to  the  same 
state  as  before,  and  that  it  would  be  the  work  of 
time,  the  labor  of  many  years,  ere  they  could  settle 
to  rest  in  any  shape  whatever. 

I  am  told  respectable  Americans  do  not  use  the 
word  "  Britisher,"  but  I  am  bound  to  say  I  heard 
Americans  who  looked  very  respectable  using  the 
word  at  the  time  of  which  I  speak,  when  there  was 
still  irritation  on  both  sides  in  consequence  of  the  sur- 
render of  Mason  and  Slidell :  in  the  minds  of  the 
friends  of  the  South,  because  they  were  balked  in 
their  anticipation  of  a  foreign  war ;  in  the  Federal 
mind,  because,  after  much  threatening  and  menaces, 
they  had  seen  the  captives  surrendered  to  the  British 
by  the  President,  or,  more  properly  speaking,  by  Mr. 
Seward. 

Hence  it  was,  perhaps,  that  Canada  was  always 
mentioned  in  such  a  tone  of  contempt,  as  though  the 
speakers  sought  to  relieve  their  feelings  by  abuse  of 
a  British  dependency. 

"  Goin'  to  Canada ! "  exclaimed  the  faithful  Mi- 
lesian who  had  been  my  attendant  —  in  fact,  my  sub- 
stitute for  a  nurse.  "  Lord  help  us  !  That^s  a  poor 
place,  anyhow.  I  thought  you  'd  be  contint  wid  the 
snow  we  've  got  here.  It 's  plinty,  anyhow.  But 
Canada ! "  The  man  had  never  been  there  in  his 
life,  but  he  spoke  as  if  it  were  beyond  the  bounds 
of  civilization.  He  had  served  in  a  British  reg- 
iment for  many  years ;  many  of  his  brothers  had 
been,  I  think  he  told  me,  in  the  service,  but  now  they 
were  all  in  the  States,  and  to  his  notion  thriving  like 
himself. 

In  no  country  on  earth  is  an  old  nationality  so 
soon  absorbed  as  in  America.  I  am  inclined  to  think 
the  regard  professed  for  England  by  American  liter- 


10 


CANADA. 


ary  men  is  sentimental,  and  is  produced  by  education 
and  study  rather  than  by  any  feeling  transmitted  in 
families  or  by  society. 

The  emigrant,  it  is  remarked,  speedily  forgets  — 
in  the  hurry  of  his  new  life  the  ways  of  the  old  slip 
out  of  his  memory.  One  day  I  said  to  my  man,  as 
a  regiment  of  volunteers  was  marching  down  Broad- 
way, "  Those  fellows  are  not  quite  as  well  set  up  as 
the  41st,  Pat."— "Well,  indeed,  and  that's  thrue  ; 
but  they  'd  fight  as  well,  I  b'lieve,  and  better  maybe, 
if  they  'd  the  officers,  poor  craychures !  Anyhow," 
continued  he  with  great  gravity,  "  they  can't  be 
flogged  for  nothin'  or  for  anything." — "  Were  you 
ever  flogged? "  —  "  No,  sirir  —  not  a  lash  ever  touched 
my  back,  but  I  've  known  fine  sogers  spiled  by  it." 
It  is  likely  enough  that  he  had  never  thought  on  the 
subject  till  he  came  to  the  States  —  a  short  time  be- 
fore and  he  would  have  resented  deeply  the  idea  that 
any  regiment  on  earth  could  stand  before  Her  Maj- 
esty's 41st. 

It  was  now  near  the  end  of  January,  and  as  a 
gleam  of  fine  weather  might  thaw  the  glorious  Union 
army  of  the  Potomac,  and  induce  them  to  advance 
on  the  inglorious  army  of  the  Confederacy,  I  resolved 
to  make  the  best  of  my  way  northwards  forthwith. 

My  companions  were  a  young  British  officer,  dis- 
tinguished in  the  Crimea,  in  India,  and  in  China, 
who  represented  a  borough'  in  Parliament,  and  had 
come  out  to  see  the  great  contest  which  was  raging 
in  the  United  States ;  and  an  English  gentleman, 
who  happened  to  be  at  New  York,  and  was  anxious 
to  have  a  look  at  Niagara,  even  in  its  winter  dress. 

On  the  27th  January  we  were  all  packed  to  start 
by  the  5.30  p.  m  train  by  Albany  to  Niagara,  and 
thence  to  Toronto.  The  landlord  made  me  up  a 
small  assortment  of  provisions,  as  in  snow-time  trains 
are  not  always  certain  of  anything  but  irregularity. 
I  was  regarded  as  one  who  was  about  to  make  my- 
self needlessly  miserable  when  he  might  continue  in 


K  "UNION  VICTORY.' 


11 


much  happiness.  "  You  had  bettor  stay,  sir,  for  a  few 
days.  I  have  certain  intelligence,  let  me  whisper 
you,  that  the  Abolitionists  will  be  whipped  at  the  end 
of  this  week,  and  old  Abe  driven  out  of  Wash- 
ington." 

The  little  boys  still  shout  out,  "  Another  great 
Union  Victory."  The  last,  by  the  bye,  was  of  Gen- 
eral Thomas,  at  Somerset,  which  has  j^radually  sub- 
limed to  uncertainty,  though  he  handled  his  men  well, 
and  is  not  bad  at  a  despatch. 

The  credulity  of  the  American  mind  is  beyond  be- 
lief Populus  vult  decipi  —  and  certainly  its  wishes 
are  complied  with  to  the  fullest  extent.  The  process 
of  a  Union  victory,  from  its  birth  in  the  first  telegram 
down  to  its  dissolution  in  the  last  despatch,  is  curious 
enough. 

Out  comes  an  extra  of  the  "  New  York  Herald  "  — 
"  Glorious  Union  Victory  off  Little  Bear  Creek,  Mo. ! 

—  Five  Thousand  Rebels  Disposed  of  I  —  Grand 
Skedaddle  !  —  General  Pumpkin's  Brilliant  Charge ! 

—  He  Out-Murats  Murat!  —  Sanguinary  Encoun- 
ters !  —  Cassius  Mudd's  Invincibles  I  —  Doom  of  the 
Confederacy  I  —  Jeff.  Davis  gone  to  Texas  !  "  and  so 
on,  with  a  display  of  large  type,  in  double-headed 
lines,  and  a  profusion  of  notes  of  admiration. 

There  is  excitement  in  the  bar-rooms.  The  Dem- 
ocrats look  down-hearted.  The  War  Christians  are 
jubilant.  Fiery  eyes  devour  the  columns,  which  con- 
tain but  an  elaboration  of  the  heading  —  swelled 
perhaps  with  a  biographical  sketch  of  Brigadier- 
General  Cyrus  Washington  Pumpkin,  "  who  was 
educated  at  West  Point,  where  he  graduated  with 
Generals  Beauregard  and  McDowell,  and  eventually 
subsided  into  pork-packing  at  Cincinnati,  where  he 
was  captain  of  a  fine  company  till  the  war  broke 
out,  when  he  tendered  his  sword,"  &c.  Cassius 
Mudd's  biography  is  of  course  reprinted  for  the 
twentieth  time,  and  there  is  a  list  of  the  names  of  all 
the  officers  in  the  regiments  near  the  presumed  scene 
of  action. 


12 


CANADA. 


1  liilS! 


'il 


Then  comes  the  action  :  —  "An  intelligent  gentle- 
man has  juit  arrived  at  Chicago,  and  has  seen  Dr. 
Bray,  to  whom  he  has  given  full  particulars  of  the 
fight.  It  was  commenced  by  Lieutenant  Epaminon- 
das  Bellows,"  (son  of  oar  respected  fellow-citizen, 
the  President  of  the  Bellowstown  and  Bellona  Rail- 
way ;  —  here  follows  a  biography  of  Bellows,)  "  who 
was  out  scouting  with  ten  more  of  our  boys  when 
they  fell  into  an  ambuscade,  which  opened  on  them 
with  masked  batteries,  uttering  unearthly  yells. 
With  Spartan  courage  the  little  band  returned  the 
fire,  and  kept  the  Seceshers,  who  were  at  least  500 
strong,  at  bay  till  their  ammunition  was  exhausted. 
Bellows,  his  f  m  dilated  with  patriotism,  his  mellow 
tones  ringing  above  the  storm  of  battle,  was  urged  to 
fly  by  a  tempter,  whose  name  we  suppress.  The 
heroic  youth  struck  the  cowardly  traitor  to  the  earth, 
and  indignantly  invited  the  enemy  to  come  on.  They 
did  so  at  last.  The  lieutenant,  resisting  desperately, 
then  fell,  and  our  men  carried  his  body  to  the  camp, 
to  the  skirts  of  which  they  were  followed  by  the 
Secesh  cavalry  and  four  guns.  Our  loss  was*only 
two  more  —  the  enemy  are  calculated  to  have  lost 
85.  The  farmers  at  Munchausen  say  they  were  busy 
all  day  carrying  away  their  dead  in  carts. 

"  On  reaching  the  camp,  General  Pumpkin  thought 
it  right  to  drive  back  the  dastardly  polluters  of  our 
country's  flag.  He  disposed  his  troops  in  platoons, 
according  to  the  celebrated  disposition  made  by  Mil- 
tiades  at  Marathon,  covering  his  wings  with  squad- 
rons of  artillery  in  columns  of  sub-divisions,  with  a 
reserve  of  cavalry  in  echelon  ;  but  he  improved  upon 
the  idea  by  addiag  th?  combination  of  solid  squares 
and  skirmishers  in  the  third  line,  by  which  Alexander 
the  Great  decided  the  Battle  of  Granicus. 

"  In  this  order,  then,  the  Union  troops  advanced  till 
they  came  to  Little  Bear  Creek.  Here,  to  their  great 
astonishment,  they  found  the  enemy  under  General 
Jefferson  Brick  in  person  (Brick  will  be  remembered 


THE  BATTLE  OF  LITTLE  BEAR  CREEK. 


13 


by  t?iany  here  as  the  intelligent  clerk  in  our  advertise- 
ment department,  but  he  was  deeply  tainted  with 
Seccsh  sentiments,  and  on  the  unfurling  of  our  flag 
manifested  them  in  such  a  manner  that  we  were 
obliged  to  dispense  with  his  services).  The  infamous 
destroyer  of  his  country's  happiness  had  posted  his 
men  so  that  we  could  not  see  them.  They  were  at 
least  three  to  one  —  mustering  some  7000,  with  guns, 
caissons,  baggage-wagons,  and  standards  in  propor- 
tion —  and  were  arranged  in  an  obtuse  angle,  of 
which  the  smaller  end  was  composed  of  a  mass  of  vet- 
erans, in  the  order  adopted  by  Napoleon  with  the 
Old  Guard  at  Waterloo :  the  larger,  consisting  of 
the  Whoop-owl  Bushwhackers  and  the  Squash  River 
Legion  in  potence,  threatened  us  with  destruction  if 
we  advanced  on  the  other  wing,  whilst  we  were 
equally  exposed  to  danger  if  we  remained  where  we 
were. 

"  General  Pumpkin's  conduct  is,  at  this  most  crit- 
ical moment,  generally  described  as  being  worthy  of 
the  best  days  of  Roman  story.  He  simply  gave  the 
word  *  Charge ! '  —  *  What,  General  ? '  exclaimed  our 
informant.  '  Charge !  Sir,'  said  the  general,  with  a 
sternness  which  permitted  no  further  question.  With 
a  yell  our  gallant  fellows  dashed  at  the  enemy,  but 
the  water  was  too  deep  in  the  creek,  and  they  ^etired 
with  terrific  loss.  The  enemy  then  dashed  at  them 
in  turn.  They  drove  our  right  for  three  miles ;  we 
drove  their  left  for  three  and  a  quarter  miles.  Their 
centre  drove  our  left,  and  our  right  drove  their  centre 
again.  They  took  five  of  our  guns;  we  took  six  of 
theirs  and  a  bread-cart. 

"  Night  put  an  end  to  this  dreadful  struggle,  in 
which  American  troops  set  an  example  to  the  war- 
seamed  soldiers  of  antiquity.  Next  morning  General 
Pumpkin  pushed  across  to  Pugstown,  and  occupied 
it  in  force.  Union  sentiment  is  rife  all  through  Mis- 
souri. We  demand  that  General  Pumpkin  be  at  once 
placed  at  the  head  of  the  Army  of  the  Potomac." 


lill 


14 


CANADA. 


Now  all  this  —  in  no  degree  exaggerated  —  and,  the 
like  of  which  I  have  read  over  and  over  again,  affords 
infinite  comfort  or  causes  great  depression  to  New 
York  for  an  hour  or  so,  coupled  with  an  "  editorial," 
in  which  the  energy  and  enterprise  of  the  Scarron 
are  duly  eulogized,  old  Greeley's  hat  and  breeches  and 
umbrella  handled  with  charming  wit  and  eloquence, 
and  the  inevitable  flight  of  the  Richmond  Govern- 
ment to  Texas  clearly  demonstrated.  Next  day  some 
little  doubt  is  expressed  as  to  the  exact  locality  of 
the  fight  — "  Pumpkin's  force  was  at  Big  Bear,  180 
miles  west  of  the  place  indicated.  We  doubt  not, 
howe/er,  the  account  is  substantially  correct,  and  that 
the  Sccesh  forces  have  been  pretty  badly  whipped." 

Next  day  the  casualties  are  reduced  from  200  killed 
and  310  wounded  to  96  killed  and  none  wounded ; 
and  scrutinizing  eyes  notice  a  statement,  in  small 
type,  that  the  "  father  of  Lieutenant  Bellows  has 
written  to  us  to  state  his  son  was  not  engaged  on  the 
occasion  in  question,  but  was  at  home  on  furlough." 
And  by  the  time  "  Another  Great  Union  Victory ! " 
is  ready,  the  fact  oozes  out,  but  is  by  no  means  con- 
sidered worth  a  thought,  that  General  Pumpkin  has 
had  an  encounter  with  the  Confederates  in  which  he 
suffered  a  defeat,  and  that  he  has  gone  into  winter 
quarters. 

I  do  not  suppose  for  a  moment  that  these  deceitful 
agencies  are  exercised  only  in  the  North,  but  am  per- 
suaded, from  what  I  know,  that  the  Southern  people 
are  at  least  as  anxious  for  news,  and  as  liable  to  be 
led  away  by  suppressions  of  truth  or  distorted  nar- 
ratives, as  those  of  the  Free  States.  If  we  had  had  a 
telegraphic  system  and  a  newspaper  press  during  the 
Wars  of  the  Roses,  or  the  struggle  of  1645,  it  is  prob- 
able our  partisans,  on  both  sides,  would  have  been 
as  open  to  imposture  ;  but  I  do  not  think  they  would 
have  continued  long  in  the  faith  that  the  ever-detected 
impostor  was  still  worthy  of  credence. 


THE  STARS  AND  STRIPES. 


15 


CHAPTER  II. 


To  the  Station.  —  Stars  and  Stripes.  —  Crowd  at    Station.  —  Train  im- 

(>c'ded  \yy  Snow.  —Classic  Ground.  — "  Manhattan."  —  "  Yonkers."  — 
''I'llow-Travellers  and  their  Ways. — "Beauties  of  the  Hudson."  — 
West  Point:  their  Education,  &c.  —  fiUrfje  Towns  on  the  Banits  of  the 
Hudson.  —  Arrive  at  East  Albany.  —  Delav-an  House.  —  Beds  at  a  Pre- 
mium.—  Aspect  of  Albany  not  impressive.  —  Sights.  —  The  Legislature. 

As  we  drove  over  the  execrable  snow-heaps  to  the 
station,  the  streets  seemed  to  me  unusually  dreary. 
The  vast  Union  flags  which  flapped  in  the  cold  air, 
now  dulled  and  dim,  showed  but  their  great  bars  of 
blood,  and  the  stars  had  faded  out  into  darkness. 

Apropos  of  the  Stripes  and  Stars,  I  may  say  I  never 
could  meet  any  one  in  the  States  able  to  account  for 
the  insignia,  though  it  has  been  suggested  that  they 
are  an  amplification  of  the  heraldic  bearing  of  George 
Washington.  Strange  indeed  if  the  family  blazon 
of  an  English  squire  should  have  become  the  flaunt- 
ing flag  of  the  Great  Republic,  which  with  all  its 
faults  has  done  so  much  for  the  world,  and  may  yet, 
purged  of  its  vanity,  arrogance,  and  aggressive  ten- 
dency, do  so  much  more  for  mankind !  Not  except- 
ing our  own,  it  is  the  most  widely  spread  flag  on  the 
seas ;  for  whilst  it  floats  by  the  side  of  the  British 
ensign  in  every  haunt  of  our  commerce,  it  has  almost 
undisputed  possession  of  vast  tracts  of  sea  in  the 
Pacific  and  South  Atlantic. 

At  last  we  got  to  the  end  of  our  very  unpleasant 
journey,  and  approached  the  York  and  Albany  Ter- 
minus, over  an  alpine  concrete  of  snow-heaps,  snow- 
holes,  and  street-rails.  At  the  station  my  coach- 
driver  affectionately  seized  my  hand,  and  bade  me 
good-by  with  a  cordiality  which  might  have  arisen 


I»         ' ' ' 


16 


CANADA. 


from  the  sensitiveness  of  touch  in  his  palm  as  much 

as    from    personal    affection.      The    terminus   was 

crowded  with  citizens  (eating  apples,  lemon-drops, 

and  gingerbread-nuts,  and  reading  newspapers)  and 

I  a  few  men  in  soldier's  uniform,  going  north  —  only 

t  one  or  two  of  what  one  calls  in  Europe  gentlemen 

f:  or  ladies,  but  all  well  dressed  and  well  behaved,  if 

they  would  only  spare  the  hissing  stoves  and  the 

feelings  of  prejudiced  foreigners. 

The  train,  with  more  punctuality  than  we  usually 
observe  in  such  matters,  started  to  the  minute,  but 
only  went  ten  yards  or  so,  and  then  halted  for  nearly 
half  an  hour — no  one  knew  why,  and  no  one  seemed 
to  care,  except  a  gentleman  Who  was  going,  he  said, 
to  get  his  friend,  "the  Honorable  Something  Ray- 
mond, to  do  something  for  him  at  Albany,"  and  was 
rather  in  a  hurry.  When  the  engine  renewed  the 
active  exercise  of  its  powers,  the  pace  was  slow  and 
the  motion  was  jerking  and  uneven,  owing  to  snow 
on  the  rails,  and  the  obstacles  increased  as  the  train 
left  the  shelter  of  the  low  long-stretching  suburb 
which  clings  to  it,  and  is  dragged,  as  it  were,  out  of 
the  city  with  it  along  the  bank  of  the  Hudson.  But 
even  181st  and  182d  streets  abandoned  their  attempts 
to  keep  up  with  the  rail ;  and  all  that  could  be  seen 
of  civilization  were  sundry  chimneys  and  walls  and 
uncouth  dark  masses  of  wood  or  brick  rising  above 
the  snow.  The  lights  in  the  wooden  stations  shone 
out  frostily  through  the  dimmed  windows  as  we 
struggled  on. 

We  were  passing  through  at  night  what  h  to 
Americans  classic  ground,  in  spite  of  odd  names  :  for 
here  is  "  Manhattan "  (associated  in  my  mind  for- 
ever with  a  man  who,  unfortunately  for  himself  and 
me,  had  a  wooden  leg,  as  he  planted  the  iron  ferule 
of  that  insensible  member  on  the  only  weak  point  of 
my  weaker  foot)  —  and  next  is  "  Yonkers,"  where  a 
lady  once  lived  with  whom  Washington  was  once  in 
love,  and  several  "  fights  "  took  place  all  around,  in 


t0%^- 


CLASSIC  GROUND. 


17 


d  as  the  train 


ows   as  we 


which  the  Americans  were  more  often  beaten  than 
victorious  ;  —  "  Dobb's  Ferry,"  "  Tarry  town  "  (poor 
Andr6 !  let  those  who  wish  to  know  all  that  can  be 
known  of  the  "  spy"  read  Mr.  Sargent's  life  of  him, 
published  in  Philadelphia),  which  is  "  nigh  on  toe 
Sleepy  Hollow,"  where  Mr.  Diedrich  Knickerbocker 
had  such  a  remarkable  interview  with  the  ancient 
Hollander;  —  "  Sing  Sing,"  where  many  gentlemen, 
not  so  well  known  to  fame,  have  interviews  of  a  less 
agreeable  character  with  modern  American  author- 
ities. We  are  passing,  too,  by  Sunnyside,  where 
Washington  Irving  lived.  I  would  rather  have  seen 
him  than  all  the  remarkable  politicians  in  the  States 
—  old  Faneuil,  or  Bunker's  Hill,  or  all  the  wonders 
of  the  great  nation ;  though  I  am  told  he  was  unbear- 
ably prosy  and  sleepy  of  late  days. 

Cold  and  colder  it  becomes  as  we  creep  on,  and 
slower  creaks  the  train  with  its  motley  freight.  The 
men  round  the  stoves  "  fire  up  "  till  the  iron  glows 
and  gives  out  the  heated  air  to  those  who  can  stand 
it,  and  an  unsavory  odor,  as  of  baked  second-hand 
clothing,  and  a  hissing  noise  to  those  beyond  the  tor- 
rid circle.  The  slamming  of  the  door  never  ceases. 
Sometimes  it  is  a  conductor,  sometimes  it  is  not. 
But  no  matter  who  makes  the  disturbance,  he  has  a 
right  to  do  so.  No  one  can  sleep  on  account  of  that 
abominable  noise,  even  if  he  could  court  slumber  in 
a  seat  which  is  provided  with  a  rim  to  hurt  his  back 
if  he  reclines,  and  a  ridge  to  smite  his  face  if  he  leans 
forward.  Apples  and  water  and  somebody's  lemon- 
drops  are  in  demand ;  and  vendors  of  vegetable  ivory 
furtively  deposit  specimens  of  ingenious  manufacture 
but  inscrutable  purpose  in  the  lap  of  the  unoffending 
stranger,  who  in  his  sleepy  state  often  falls  a  victim 
to  these  artifices,  and  finds  himself  called  on  to  pay 
several  dollars  for  quaint  products  of  the  carver, 
which  he  has  unduly  detained  in  his  unconscious- 
ness. /    ' 

The  train   arrives   at  Poughkeepsie,  seventy -five 


i" 


18 


CANADA. 


miles  from  New  York,  an  hour  and  a  half  late.  We 
hear  that,  instead  of  reaching  Albany  at  10.30  or 
11  p.  M.,  we  shall  not  be  in  till  1  or  1.30  a.  m.,  and 
will  "lose  communications;"  therefore  we  eat  in 
desperation  at  refreshment-rooms  large  oysters  boiled 
in  milk  out  of  small  basins.  In  the  night  once  more. 
We  have  passed  West  Point  long  since,  and  an 
enthusiastic  child  of  nature,  who  has  been  pointing 
out  to  me  the  "  beauties  of  the  Hudson,"  which  is 
flowing  down  under  its  mail  of  ice  close  to  our  left, 
has  gone  to  sleep  among  the  fire-worshippers  at  the 
stove. 

Now,  the  fact  is,  that  scenery  under  snow  is,  I 
may  safely  affirm,  very  like  beauty  under  a  mask, 
or  a  fine  figure  in  a  waterproof  blanket.  The  hills 
were  mere  snow-mounds,  and  the  lines  of  all  objects 
were  fluffy  and  indistinct ;  and  I  was  glad  my  eulo- 
gistic friend  slept  at  last.  West  Point  I  longed  to 
see  ;  for  though  its  success  in  turning  out  great  gen- 
erals has  as  yet  not  been  very  remarkable,  I  had  met 
too  many  excellent  specimens  of  its  handiwork  in 
making  good  officers  and  pleasant  gentlemen  not  to 
feel  a  desire  to  have  purview  of  the  institution.  Had 
I  not  heard  a  live  general  sing  "  Benny  Haven,  ho ! " 
—  had  I  11  )t  seen  Mordecai  sitting  at  the  gate  of 
Pelissier  in  vain,  and  McClellan  and  Delafield  en- 
gaged in  a  geological  inquiry  on  the  remains  of  the 
siege  of  Sebastopol?  Above  all,  does  not  West 
Point  promise  to  become  something  like  a  military 
academy,  in  a  country  such  as  America  is  likely  to 
be  after  the  war  ? 

It  is  a  mistake  rather  common  in  England,  and  in 
Europe,  to  suppose  that  a  majority,  or  even  a  minor- 
ity, of  the  American  generals  are  civilians.  With 
very  few  exceptions  indeed,  they  have  either  been 
some  time  at  West  Point,  or  have  graduated  there. 
In  a  country  which  has  no  established  lines  to  mark 
the  difference  of  classes,  which  nevertheless  exists 
there  as  elsewhere,  there  is  a  positive  social  elevation 


AMERICAN  OFFIERS. 


19 


acquired  by  any  man  who  has  graduated  at  West 
Point;  and  if  he  has  taken  a  high  degree,  he  is  re- 
garded in  his  State  as  a  man  of  mark,  whose  services 
must  be  secured  for  the  military  organization  and 
public  service  in  the  militia  or  volunteers. 

There  is  no  country  in  the  world  where  so  many 
civilians  have  received  their  education  in  military 
academies  without  any  view  to  a  military  ca- 
reer. There  are  of  course  many  "generals"  and 
"  colonels  "  of  States  troops  who  have  had  no  pro- 
fessional training,  but  not  nearly  so  many  as  might 
be  imagined. 

But  the  great  defect  under  which  American  offi- 
cers labored  until  this  unhappy  war  broke  out,  was 
the  purely  empirical  and  theoretical  state  of  their 
knowledge.  They  had  no  practical  experience.  The 
best  of  them  had  only  such  knowledge  as  they  could 
have  gleaned  in  the  Mexican  war.  A  man  whose 
head  was  full  of  Jomini  was  sent  off  to  command  a 
detachment  in  a  frontier  fort,  and  to  watch  maraud- 
ing Indians,  for  long  years  of  his  life,  and  never  saw 
a  regiment  in  the  field.  As  to  working  the  three 
arms  together  creditably  in  the  field,  I  doubt  if  there 
is  an  officer  in  the  whole  army  who  could  do  it  any- 
thing like  so  well  as  the  Duke  of  Cambridge,  or  as  an 
Aldershot  or  Curragh  brigadier. 

It  would  be  hard  for  any  Englishman  to  be  indif- 
ferent to  the  advantages  of  military  training  in  a 
country  where  every  village  around  could  have  told 
tales  of  the  helpless,  hopeless  blundering  which  char- 
acterized the  operations  of  the  British  generals  here- 
abouts in  the  War  of  Independence.  Reflecting 
thus,  too,  I  felt  less  inclined  to  wonder  at  the  mis- 
takes made  by  the  Federals,  and  by  the  Confederates. 
Had  the  British  generals  proved  more  lucky  and  skil- 
ful, should  we  now  have  been  passing  the  towns 
which  cluster  on  the  banks  of  the  Hudson,  or  would 
"  monarchy  "  have  impeded  the  march  of  life,  com- 
merce, and  civilization  out  here  ? 


r                                                          —    " 

• 

20 

CANADA. 

Towns  of    5000, 

10,000,   20,000,    and    even   of 

30,000  inhabitants  rise  on  the  margin  of  the  fine 
river,  v^rhich  in  summer  presents,  I  am  assured,  a 
scene  of  charming  variety  and  animation,  and  in 
autumn  is  fringed  by  the  most  beautiful  of  all  beau- 
tiful American  landscapes,  surcharged  with  the  glo- 
rious colors  of  that  lovely  season.  Through  the  dark- 
ness by  the  bright  starlight  we  could  see  the  steam- 
boats locked  fast  in  the  ice,  like  knights  in  proof, 
awaiting  the  signal  to  set  them  free  for  the  charge. 
But,  ah  me  !  how  weary  it  was !  —  how  horrible  the 
stoves !  At  last  and  at  last  the  train  stopped,  and 
finally  deposited  us  at  three  o'clock  in  the  morning 
on  the  left  bank  of  the  Hudson,  at  East  Albany. 

The  city  proper  lies  on  the  opposite  shore  of  the 
river ;  and  I  got,  as  I  was  directed,  into  a  long  low 
box  called  the  omnibus,  which  was  soon  crowded 
with  passengers.  In  a  few  minutes  we  were  off. 
Then  I  was  made  aware  that  the  'bus  was  a  sleigh, 

and  that  it  was  on  runners,  and Just  at  that 

moment  the  machine  made  a  headlong  plunge,  like  a 
ship  going  down  by  the  bows  at  sea,  and  in  an  in- 
stant more  had  pierced  the  depths  of  darkness,  and 
with  a  crashing,  scrunching  bump  touched  the  bot- 
tom. "  We  're  on  the  river  now,  I  guess,"  quoth 
one.  And  so  it  was.  We  had  shot  down  the  bank, 
which  must  be  higher  than  one  would  like  to  leap, 
even  on  snow,  and  were  now  rolling,  squeaking,  and 
jerking  over  the  frozen  river,  amid  the  groans  and 
shrieks  and  grumbling  protests  of  the  ice,  which 
seemed  in  some  places  to  give  way  as  if  it  were  go- 
ing to  let  us  down  bodily,  and  in  others  to  rise  up  in 
strong  ridges  to  baffle  the  horses'  efforts.  Then,  after 
a  most  disagreeable  drive,  which  seemed  half-an-hour 
long,  —  and  about  thrice  as  long  as  it  really  was,  I 
suppose,  —  a  prodigious  effort  of  horse-muscle  and 
whipping,  and  of  manual  labor,  accomplished  the 
ascent  of  the  other  bank,  and  the  vehicle  passed 
through  the  deserted  streets  of  Albany  —  the  capital 


THE  DELAVAN  HOUSE. 


21 


of  the  great  State  of  New  York  —  to  the  Delavan 
House,  which  was  open  to  receive  but  not  to  enter- 
tain us.  A  rush  of  citizens  was  made  to  "  the  office  " 
of  the  hotel.  More  citizens  followed  out  of  fast- 
arriving  vehicles  from  the  train, — for  there  was  no 
means  of  getting  on  till  the  forenoon,  —  and  all  went 
perforce  to  the  Delavan  House. 

The  hotel  office  consisted  of  a  counter  with  a 
raised  desk,  enclosing  a  man  with  a  gold  chain,  a 
diamond  stuck  in  the  front  of  a  dress  shirt  —  not  as 
pin  to  a  scarf  or  as  a  stud,  but  as  a  diamond  per  se, 
after  the  fashion  of  those  people  and  of  railway  con- 
ductors in  the  land  —  his  hat  cocked  over  one  eye,  a 
toothpick  even  at  that  hour  in  his  mouth,  a  black 
dress  suit  of  clothes,  a  dyed  moustache  and  beard 
d  la  Rowdy  Americain,  and  an  air  of  sovereign  con- 
tempt for  his  customers.  The  crowd  pressed  around 
and  hurled  volleys  of  questions,  —  "  Can  we  have 
beds,  sir  ?  "  &c.  But  the  man  of  Delavan  House  re- 
plied not.  To  all  their  entreaties  he  returned  not  a 
word.  But  he  did  take  out  a  great  book  and  spread 
it  on  the  counter,  and  putting  a  pen  in  the  ink  he 
handed  it  to  the  citizen  nearest,  who  signed  himself 
and  his  State,  and  asked  meekly  "  if  he  could  have  a 
bed  at  once,  as  he  was  so  "  &c.  To  him  the  man 
of  Delavan  House  deigned  no  reply.  The  pen  was 
handed  to  another,  who  signed,  and  so  on  —  the 
arbiter  of  our  destinies  watching  each  inscription 
with  the  air  of  an  attorney's  clerk  who  takes  signa- 
tures to  an  attestation. 

There  were  at  least  fifty  people  to  sign  before  me, 

and  I  heard  from  a  waiter  there  were  only  ten  beds 

—  which  on  the  most  ample  allowance  would  only 

accommodate  some  thirty  people  —  vacant.     Were 

the  Britishers  to  be  beaten  ?     Never  !     Leaving  our 

luggage,  we  dashed  out  into  the  snow.     And  lo !  a 

house  nigh  at  hand,  with  lights  and  open  doors.     A 

black  waiter  sallied  out  at  the  tramp  of  feet  in  the 

hall.     He  told  as,  "  De  rooms  all  tuk,  sar."     He  was 

2* 


fl: 


22 


CANADA. 


ill 


il 

II 


told  to  be  less  indiscreet  in  his  assertions,  and  all  the 
time  of  colloquy  the  invading  Celts  and  Saxons 
pushed  onwards  and  upwards  to  the  first  landing. 
Here  were  doors  standing  open.  We  entered  one. 
Three   small   rooms  —  beds   empty  !    no   luggage  ! 

This  will  do.     "  Massa,  dis  room  's  all " "  You 

be  quiet!  "  And  the  luggege  was  dragged  over  by 
our  own  right  hands,  eventually  aided  by  the  Ethiop. 

I  had  the  satisfaction,  as  I  was  gliding  away  with 
my  hat-box,  to  hear  the  man  of  Delavan  House  read- 
ing the  book  of  fate,  and  selecting  his  victims  at  his 
grim  pleasure.  In  fact,  the  house  on  which  we  had 
stumbled  was  a  sort  of  succursal  to  the  hotel ;  and 
the  proprietor,  afraid  of  offending  so  mighty  a  poten- 
tate, was  shocked  at  the  idea  of  letting  in  any  one 
without  his  leave.  What  became  of  the  victims  I 
know  not,  but  I  do  know  that  the  beds  —  though  we 
went  to  them  supperless  —  of  the  humble  hostelry 
were  very  grateful. 

I  went  to  bed  about  4  a.  m.,  with  the  fixed  inten- 
tion of  getting  up  early  and  visiting  the  capitol,  when 
I  could  have  seen  with  these  eyes  the  glories  of  the 

Hon. Raymond  as  Speaker  in  the  State  Hall, 

and  have  heard  something  more  of  the  interesting 
proceedings  against  a  New  York  alderman,  who 
accused  senators  and  representatives  of  being  acces- 
sible as  Danae  to  the  golden  shower,  and  even  to 
greenbacks. 

No  man  can  see  the  real  merits  of  a  city  in  snow. 
I  shall  repeat  the  remark  no  more  ;  therefore  if  I  say 
I  don't  like  a  place,  let  the  snow  bear  the  blame  ;  but 
Albany  did  not  impress  me  when  I  did  get  up,  and 
the  sight  of  the  State  Capitol  at  the  top  of  a  steep 
street  was  so  utterly  depressing,  that  I  abandoned 
my  resolve,  and  sought  less  classic  ground.  What 
have  not  these  Greeks  to  answer  for  in  this  new 
land  ? 

There  was  a  comforting  contrast  to  the  hideous 
domes  and  mock  porticos,  and  generally  to  the  ugli- 


II 


THE  LEGISLATURE. 


23 


ne89  of  the  public  buildings,  in  the  solid  unpreten- 
tious look  of  the  old  Dutch-built  houses  of  private 
citizens.  Though  there  is  an  aspect  of  dccadenro 
about  Albany,  it  seems  more,  Ixir  more  respectatile 
and  gentlemanly  than  its  smug,  smirking,  meretri- 
cious but  overwhelming  rival,  New  York. 

I  was  informed  by  an  American  that  it  was  called 
after  the  second  name  in  the  title  of  James  the  Sec- 
ond, before  he  ascended  the  throne.  "  Bad  as  the 
Stuarts  were  to  you,  they  were  a  great  deal  better 
for  the  colonies,"  said  he,  "  than  your  Hanover  House, 
and  perhaps  if  you  had  n't  changed  them  you  might 
not  have  lost  us."  It  was  curious  to  hear  an  American 
saying  a  good  word  for  the  luckless  house,  though  I 
am  by  no  means  of  the  opinion  that  England  could 
ever  have  ruled  colonies  which  were  saturated  with 
the  principles  of  self-government. 

It  was  too  cold  at  such  a  season  as  this  for  philo- 
sophical research  in  a  sleigh,* and  too  slippery  for 
sauntering;  and  we  were  whirled  out  of  the  State 
capital  without  seeing  much  of  it,  except  church 
steeples,  and  some  decent  streets,  and  the  ice-bound 
river  studded  with  hard-set  steamers. 

There  are,  however,  in  summer  time,  as  I  hear,  and 
can  well  imagine,  many  fine  sights  to  be  seen.  There 
is  the  Fall  of  Cohoes,  where  the  Mohawk  River,  a 
stream  of  greater  body  than  the  Thames  at  Rich- 
mond, leaps  full  seventy  feet  down  into  a  gulf,  whence 
it  collects  itself  to  pursue  its  course  to  the  Hudson. 
There  are  Shaker  settlements,  and  many  communi- 
ties of  "  isms "  and  astounding  congregations  of 
"  ists ;  "  and  there  are  clean  Dutch  streets,  and  Dutch 
tenures  and  customs  to  this  day.  With  the  tenures, 
however,  the  rule  of  the  majority  has  made  rough 
work;  and  the  lords  in  capite,  or  padroons,  have 
suffered  pauperization  by  the  simple  process  of  non- 
payment of  their  rents. 

The  Legislature  is  now  in  solemn  conclave.  They 
are  investigating  charges  implied  in  the  speech  of  a 


24 


CANADA. 


t 


New  York  alderman,  who  declared  he  could  get  any 
measure  passed  h(^  liked,  by  paying  the  members^ 
of  course  extra-olTicially,  because  the  payment,  per 
se^  could  only  be  an  agreeable  addition  to  their  in- 
come. The  Speaker  is  Mr.  Raymond,  of  the  "  New 
York  Times,"  who,  in  spite  of  or  perhaps  in  conse- 
quence of  the  opposition  of  the  "  Caledonian  Cleon,'* 
his  rival,  was  elected  to  that  high  office.  It  was  in 
course  of  conversation  with  an  American  gentleman 
respecting  the  election,  that  I  learned  there  was  no 
more  certain  way  of  succeeding  in  any  contest  in  the 
State,  than  to  obtain  the  abuse  of  the  organ  under 
that  person's  control.  Be  it  senator,  mayor,  or  com- 
mon-councilman, the  candidate  he  favors  is  lost,  for 
all  respectable  people  instinctively  vote  against  him. 


!  1 


MR.  SEWARD. 


CHAPTER  III. 


Unpleft«ant  .loumev  to  Ninparn.  —  Mr.  Seward.  —  The  Union  and  ita  Dan- 
ijers.  —  I'ass  hiiffalo.  —  Arrival  at  Niagara.  —  A  "  Touter."  —  Bad 
Weather.  —  The  Hoad.  —  Climate  compared.  —  Desolate  Appearance  of 
Houses.  —  The  St.  Lawrence  viewed  from  above. — One  Hundred  Yeara 
apo.  —  Canada  the  creat  Object  of  the  Americans.  —  The  Welland  Ca- 
nal. —  Ktl'cct  of  the  Kidls  from  a  Distance.  —  (iradiial  approacli.  —  Less 
Volume  of  Water  in  Winter.  —  Different  Effect  and  DaiiRors  in  Winter. 
Icicles. —  Behind  the  Cataract.  —  Photographs  and  Bazaar.  —  Visit  the 
"Lions"  jrenerallv.  —  Brock.  —  American  and  ('anadian  Sides  con- 
trasted. —  Goat  Isfand.  —  A  Whisper  heard.  —  Mills  and  Manufactories. 

It  was  past  noon  ere  the  train  once  more  began 
its  contest  with  the  snow  —  now  conquering,  now 
stubbornly  resisted,  and  brought  to  a  standstill, — 
the  pace  exceedingly  slow,  the  scenery  that  of  undu- 
lating white  table-cloths,  the  society  dull. 

The  journey  to  Niagara  was  as  unpleasant  as  very 
bad  travelling  and  absence  of  anything  to  see  could 
make  it.  The  train  contained  many  soldiers  or  volun- 
teers going  back  to  their  people,  who  discussed  the 
conduct  of  the  war  with  earnestness  and  acuteness ; 
but  though  we  were  so  far  north,  I  could  not  hear 
any  of  them  very  anxious  about  the  negro. 

Well-dressed  men  and  women  got  in  and  out  at 
all  the  stations,  nor  did  I  see  persons  in  the  whole 
line  of  the  cars  who  seemed  to  have  rubbed  elbows 
with  adversity.  Shenectady  !  Utica!  Syracuse!  Au- 
burn !  Here  be  comminglings !  —  the  Indian,  the 
Phceno  -  Numidian,  the  Greek  -  Sicilian,  the  Anglo- 
Irish,  all  reviving  here  in  fair  towns,  full  of  wealth, 
commerce,  and  life. 

The  last-named  is,  I  believe,  the  birthplace,  and  is 
certainly  what  auctioneers  call  the  residential  abode, 
of  Mr.  Seward.  I  remember  his  Excellency  relating 
how,  after  the  Battle  of  Bull  Run,  —  when  he  was 
threatened  by  certain   people  from  Baltimore  with 


26 


CANADA. 


h    I 


i  i 


m 


hanging,  ns  tbo  reward  of  his  misdocda  in  plnnging 
1lu»  conntry  into  civil  wiir,  —  ho  resolvtul  to  visit  his 
frllow-iMtizons  and  n<'igriborH,  to  Jiscoitjiin  whether 
IhtTo  was  nny  (!hang(^  of  furling  junongst  thoni.  He 
wuH  rtM^eivcd  with  every  demonstration  of  kindness 
and  res^HH^t,  and  then,  said  he,  "  J  felt  my  head  was 
(jnite  safe  on  my  shonlders."  It  is  bnt  jnst  to  say, 
Mr.  Seward  altogether  diselaims  the  int<Mition  of  seiz- 
ing on  Canada,  which  has  been  attribnttul  to  liini  in 
Kngland  ;  although  he  (u^rtainly  is  of  opinion,  that 
tlu?  province  (smnot  continn(^  l^>ng  to  bt^  a  deptMidency 
of  the  lOnglish  Crown.  How  long  does  he  think 
(California  will  Im^  content  to  re(;eivo  orders  from  a 
government  at  Washington  ? 

The  danger  which  menac(^a  the  Union  will  become 
far  greatcu'  after  the  sucecvss  of  Iht*  Unionists  than 
it  was  during  the  war,  because  the  extinction  of  the 
))rineipl(;  of  States  Rights  will  naturally  tend  to  cen- 
tralize tlu^  po\ver  of  tlu^  FedtM*al  Uovernment.  They 
caimot  restort;  that  which  they  have  pulled  down. 
In  virtue  of  their  own  jirinciples,  tht;y  nuist  nn>intain 
a  strict  watcli  antl  supreme  control  over  the  State 
Governments  and  Legislatures.  Kndless  disputes 
and  jealousies  will  arise.  The  Democrats,  at  onc<; 
the  wtmlthiest  and  the  ablest  party  in  each  State, 
will  take  evt^ry  opportunity  of  opposing  the  central- 
ized Oovernment ;  and  although  the  Republicans 
may  raise  armies  to  light  for  the  Union,  they  will  not 
hi'  able  to  prevtMit  the  slow  and  certain  action  of  the 
State  licgislatures,  which  will  tend  tt>  detach  the 
States  more  and  more  from  any  federation  in  which 
their  interests  are  not  engaget),  and  to  form  them 
into  groups,  bound  tog(^tlu;r  by  conun unity  of  com- 
merce, nuuuifacture,  feeling,  and  destiny. 

Canada  mnst  of  course  acu't^pt  its  fate  with  the 
rest;  but  J^higlislwnen,  at  ItMist,  will  not  yield  it  to 
the  menaces  or  violence  t)f  the  Northern  Amerit^ans, 
as  long  as  the  peopli^  of  the  province  prt^fi^  being 
our  lellow-aubjecta  to  uu  incorporation  in  the  Great 


A  NIAGARA  TOUTKR. 


27 


in  plunfriiif* 
(1  to  visit  his 
tiiiii  whetlior 
4  MuMii.     He 

of  iviiuiiu'ss 
ny  head  vva8 

just  to  ssiy, 
iitioii  of  seiz- 
(h1  1o  him  in 
opinion,  that 

(h'p<Mi(h'ncy 
•OS  ho  tliink 
rtlors  fn)ni  a 

will  burorne 
ioiiists  tlian 
letion  of  Iho 
tend  to  ctui- 
iKMit.     They 
illod  down. 
i8t  nipintain 
r  the  8tato 
H8   disputoa 
iits,  ut  onco 
uch  Static, 
\n*  fcnlral- 
lopublicans 
loy  will  not 
lion  of  tho 
li'tach   tho 
1  in  which 
'onn   Ihcin 
(y  of  cani- 
ty with  tho 
yield  it  to 
\njori(!ans, 
dor  boing 
tho  Grout 


Republic,  or  any  section  of  it  that  may  bo  desirous 
of  tlu^  abstraction. 

I  fear  we  mostly  look  at  Mr.  Seward's  oon(hiet 
and  lanL(nat(<^  from  a  point  which  causes  erroneous 
inferences.  It  shouUI  bo  remembered  that  he  is  an 
American  nunister  —  that  ho  has  not  only  thi"  intt^- 
ests  but  tho  passions  and  prejiidices  of  tho  American 
people  to  consult,  and  that,  like  Lord  Palmerston,  ho 
is  not  the  njinister  of  any  country  but  his  own.  His 
son,  the  Under-so{Totary  of  Stat(%  is  tho  j)roprietor 
and  editor  of  a  journsd  hero,  which  it*  conducted  with 
tho  moderation  and  tact  to  bo  expected  from  the 
amiable  ctharacter  of  the  "ijentloman  alluded  to. 

There  was  little  to  bo  setm  of  lla^  towns  at  which 
wo  halted,  and  our  jourm^y  was  iH>ntinued  from  one 
to  the  other  monotoiu)usly  enough.  Tho  weary  creep- 
inpfofthe  train,  the  foul  atinospliort^,  the  delays,  how- 
ever inevitable  and  imavoidable,  rather  spoihnl  one's 
interest  in  tho  black  smoky-lookinjif  cities  on  tho 
white  plains  throuj^h  which  wo  passed  ;  and  ni^ht 
found  us  still  "scroo*(in*ij  on,"  and  lUHMisionally  stop- 
pinj»  and  di^ijjin^  out.  Thus  wo  passtnl  by  Kochester 
and  the  (icneseo  Falls,  which  seem  oxttMisively  used 
up  in  mill-workinjj^,  and  arrived  at  Hulfalo  (278  nulcs) 
a  little  before  mi(lni«>[ht.  There  wt^  branched  oil'  to 
Niagara,  which  is  22  miles  further  on. 

Up  to  this  time  wv.  had  boon  minded  \o  ^o  to  tho 
Clifton  ilouse,  which  is  on  th(^  (^anadian  side  of  tho 
river,  thoujjfh  it  is  kept  by  Americans,  and  of  which 
wii  had  agreeablt^  memories  in  tiu^  sununer,  when  it 
was  tho  heackpiarters  of  many  pleasant  Southerners. 
There  were  only  three  or  four  uumi  in  our  car,  oiu'  of 
whom  was,  ov«mj  undtM*  such  hopeless  circumstances, 
doini^  a  little  touting  for  an  hotel  at  diti  Amerii^an 
sid('.  After  a  whilt;  he  threw  a  tly  over  us  and 
landed  \\w  whole  baski^t.  All  the  larti;e  hotels,  he 
said,  wiH-e  shut  up  on  both  sides  of  the  {''alls,  but  ho 
coidd  take  us  to  u  very  nici^  (piit^t  and  comfortable 
place,  whore  we  wouUl  meet  with  every  attention, 


28 


CANADA. 


PIJH 


''111 

■  Hi 


M\  I 


ilHi:  \ 


and  it  was  the  only  house  we  would  find  open. 
This  exposition  left  us  no  choice. 

We  surrendered  ourselves  therefore  to  the  tout, 
who  was  a  very  different  being  from  the  type  of  his 
class  in  England,  —  a  tall,  pleasant-faced  man,  with  a 
keen  eye  and  bronzed  face,  ending  in  an  American 
Vandyke  beard,  a  fur  collar  round  his  neck,  a  heavy 
travelling-coat,  —  from  which  peered  out  the  ruffles 
of  a  white  shirt  and  a  glittering  watch-chain,  — rings 
on  his  fingers,  and  unexceptionable  shoeing.  He 
smoked  his  cigar  with  an  air,  and  talked  as  if  he 
were  conferring  a  favor.  "  And  I  tell  you  what ! 
I  '11  show  you  all  over  the  Falls  to-morrow.  Yes, 
sir?"  Why,  we  were  under  eternal  obligations  to 
such  a  guide,  and  internally  thanking  our  stars  for 
the  treasure-trove,  at  once  accepted  him. 

At  the  gloomy  deserted  station  we  were  now  shot 
out,  on  a  sheet  of  slippery  deep  snow,  an  hour  after 
midnight.  We  followed  our  guide  to  an  hostelry  of 
the  humbler  sort,  where  the  attention  was  not  at 
first  very  marked  or  the  comfort  at  all  decided.  The 
night  was  very  dark,  and  a  thaw  had  set  in  under 
the  influencs  of  a  warm  rain.  The  thunder  of  the 
Falls  could  not  be  heard  through  the  thick  air,  but 
when  we  were  in  the  house  a  quiet  little  quivering 
rattle  of  the  window-panes  spoke  of  its  influence. 
The  bar-room  was  closed  —  in  the  tawdry  foul- 
odored  eating-room  swung  a  feeble  lamp :  it  was 
quite  unreasonable  to  suppose  any  one  could  be 
hungry  at  such  an  hour,  and  we  went  to  bed  with 
the  nourishment  supplied  by  an  anticipation  of  feast- 
ing on  scenery.  All  through  the  night  the  door  and 
window-frames  kept  up  the  drum-like  roll  to  the 
grand  music  far  away. 

We  woke  up  early.  What  evil  fortune  !  Rain  ! 
fog !  thaw  !  —  the  snow  melting  fast  in  the  dark  air. 
But  were  we  not  "  bound "  to  see  the  Falls  ?  So 
after  breakfast,  and  ample  supplies  of  coarse  food, 
we  started  in  a  vehicle  driven  by  the  trapper  of  the 


THE  NEGROES  AND  THE  IRISH. 


29 


night  before.  He  turned  out  to  be  a  very  intelligent, 
shrewd  American,  who  had  knocked  about  a  good 
deal  in  the  States,  and  knew  men  and  manners  in  a 
larger  field  than  Ulysses  ever  wandered  over. 

The  aspect  of  the  American  city  in  winter-time  is 
decidedly  quite  the  reverse  of  attractive,  but  there 
was  a  far  larger  fixed  population  than  we  expected 
to  have  seen,  and  the  fame  of  our  arrival  had  gone 
abroad,  so  that  there  was  a  small  assemblage  round 
the  stove  in  the  bar-room  and  in  the  passage  to  see 
us  start.  I  don't  mean  to  see  us  in  particular,  but 
to  stare  at  any  three  strangers  who  turned  up  so  sus- 
piciously and  unexpectedly  at  this  season.  The 
walls  of  the  room  in  the  hotel  were  covered  with 
placards,  offering  large  bounties  and  liberal  induce- 
ments to  recruits  for  the  local  regiment  of  volun- 
teers ;  and  I  was  told  that  a  great  number  of  men 
had  gone  for  the  war  after  the  season  had  concluded 
—  but  Abolition  is  by  no  means  popular  in  Niagara. 

It  was  resolved  that  we  should  drive  round  to  the 
British  side  by  the  Suspension  Bridge,  a  couple  of 
miles  below,  as  the  best  way  of  inducting  my  com- 
panions into  the  wonders  of  the  Falls ;  and  I  pre- 
pared myself  for  a  great  surprise  in  the  difference 
between  the  character  of  the  scene  in  winter  and  in 
summer. 

For  some  time  the  road  runs  on  a  low  level  below 
the  rivr^-bank,  and  does  not  permit  of  a  sight  of  the 
cataract.  The  wooden  huts  of  the  Irish  squatters 
looked  more  squalid  and  miserable  than  they  were 
when  I  saw  them  last  year — wonderful  combina- 
tions of  old  plank,  tarpaulin,  tin-plate,  and  stove- 
pipes. "  It's  wonderful  the  settlement  does  n't  catch 
fire!"  —  "  But  it  does  catch  fire.  It's  burned  down 
often  enough.  Nobody  cares ;  and  the  Irish  grin, 
and  build  it  up  again,  and  beat  a  few  of  the  niggers, 
whom  they  accuse  of  having  blazed  'em  up.  They 
*ve  a  purty  hard  time  of  it  now,  I  think." 

There  are  too  many  free  negroes  and  too  man} 


I 


30 


CANADA. 


Irish  located  in  the  immediate  neighborhood  of  the 
American  town,  to  cause  the  doctrines  of  the  Aboli- 
tionists to  be  received  with  much  favor  by  the  Ameri- 
can population ;  and  the  Irish  of  course  are  opposed 
to  free  negroes,  where  they  are  attracted  by  paper- 
mills,  hotel  service,  bricklaying,  plastering,  house- 
building, and  the  like  —  the  Americans  monopoliz- 
ing the  higher  branches  of  labor  and  money-making, 
including  the  guide  business. 

At  a  bend  in  the  road  we  caught  a  glimpse  of  the 
Falls,  and  I  was  concerned  to  observe  they  appeared 
diminished  in  form,  in  beauty,  and  in  effect.  The 
cataract  appeared  of  an  ochreish  hue,  like  bog- water, 
as  patches  of  it  came  into  sight  through  breaks  in 
the  thick  screen  of  trees  which  line  the  banks.  The 
effect  was  partly  due  to  the  rain,  perhaps,  but  was 
certainly  developed  by  the  white  setting  of  snow 
through  which  it  rushed.  The  expression  on  my 
friends'  faces  indicated  that  they  considered  Niagara 
an  imposition.  "  The  Falls  are  like  one  of  our  great 
statesmen,"  quoth  the  guide,  "just  now.  There's 
nothing  particular  about  them  when  you  first  catch 
a  view  of  them ;  but  when  you  get  close  and  know 
them  better,  then  the  power  comes  out,  and  you  feel 
small  as  potatoes." 

As  we  splashed  on  through  the  snow,  I  began  to 
consider  the  disadvantages  to  which  the  poor  emi- 
grant who  chooses  a  land  exposed  to  the  rigors  of  a 
six-months'  winter,  must  be  exposed;  and  I  won- 
dered in  myself  that  the  early  settlers  did  not  fiy,  if 
they  had  a  chance,  when  they  first  experienced  the 
effects  of  bitter  cold.  But  I  recollected  how  much 
better  were  soil,  climate,  and  communications  than 
they  are  in  the  sunny  South,  where,  for  seven 
months,  the  heat  is  far  more  intolerable  than  the  cold 
of  Canada  —  where  the  fever  revels,  where  noxious 
reptiles  and  insects  vex  human  life,  and  the  blood  is 
poisoned  by  malaria,  and  where  wheat  refuses  to 
grow,  and  bread  is  a  foreign  product. 


THE  ST.  LAWRENCE. 


31 


Even  in  Illinois  the  winter  is,  as  a  rule,  as  severe 
as  it  is  in  Canada,  the  heat  as  great  in  summer  — 
water  is  scarce,  roads  bad.  It  is  better  to  be  a 
dweller  on  the  banks  of  the  St.  Lawrence  than  a 
resident  in  the  Valley  of  the  Mississippi,  even  if 
a  tithe  of  its  fabled  future  should  ever  come  to 
pass.  There  is  no  reason  why  the  Canadas  should 
be  regarded  with  less  favor  than  the  Western  States, 
although  the  winters  are  long  enough  :  in  the  prairie 
there  is  a  want  of  wholesome  water  in  summer,  and 
a  scarcity  of  fuel  for  cold  weather,  which  tend  to 
restore  the  balance  in  favor  of  the  province?* 

The  country,  \vhich  I  remembered  so  riant  and 
rich,  now  was  cold  and  desolate.  At  the  station, 
near  the  beautiful  Suspension  Bridge,  —  which  one 
cannot  praise  too  much,  and  v/hich  1  hope  may  last 
forever,  though  it  does  not  look  like  it,  —  the  houses 
had  closed  windows,  and  half  of  them  seemed  empty, 
but  the  German  proprietors  no  doubt  could  have 
been  found  in  the  lager-beer  saloons  and  billiard- 
rooms.  The  toll-takers  and  revenue  officers  on  the 
bridge  showed  the  usual  apathy  of  their  genus.  No 
novelty  moves  them.  Had  the  King  of  Oude  ap- 
peared with  all  his  court  on  elephants,  they  would 
have  merely  been  puzzled  how  to  assess  the  animals. 
They  were  not  in  the  least  disconcerted  at  a  group 
of  travellers  visiting  the  St.  Lawrence  in  winter- 
time. 

The  sight  of  the  St.  Lawrence  as  we  crossed  over, 
roaring  and  foaming  more  than  a  hundred  feet  below 
us,  and  rushing  between  the  precipitous  banks  on 
which  the  bridge  rests,  gave  one  a  sort  of  ^^  frisson :  " 
it  looked  like  some  stream  of  the  inferno  —  the 
waters,  black  and  cold,  lashed  into  pyramids  of  white 
foam,  and  seeming  by  their  very  violence  to  impede 
their  own  escape.  Some  distance  below  the  bridge, 
indeed,  they  rise  up  in  a  visible  ridge,  crested  with 
high  plumes  of  tossing  spray  ;  but  it  is  related  as  a 
fact  that  the  steamer  "  Maid   of  the  Mist,"  which 


32 


CANADA. 


was  wont  to  ply  as  a  ferry-boat  below  the  Falls,  was 
let  down  this  awful  sluice  by  a  daring  captain,  who 
sought  to  save  her  from  the  grip  of  certain  legal 
functionaries,  and  that  she  got  through  with  the  loss 
of  her  chimney,  after  a  fierce  contest  with  the  waters, 
in  which  she  was  whirled  round  and  buffeted  almost 
to  foundering.  At  that  moment  the  men  on  board 
would  no  doubt  have  surrendered  to  the  feeblest  of 
bailiffs  for  the  chance  of  smooth  water. 

About  one  hundred  years  ago,  the  spot  where  we 
now  stood  was  the  scene  of  continual  struggles  be- 
tween the  Red  man,  still  strong  enough  to  strike  a 
blow  for  his  heritage,  and  the  British.  It  was  on  the 
14th  September,  1764,  that  the  Indians  routed  a  de- 
tachment at  Niagara,  and  killed  and  wounded  up- 
wards of  two  hundred  men ;  and  their  organization 
seemed  so  formidable  that  Amherst  was  glad  to  make 
a  treaty  with  the  tribes  through  the  instrumentality 
of  Sir  W.  Johnston.  The  colonists  then  left  on  us 
the  main  burden  of  any  difficulty  arising  from  their 
great  cupidity  and  indifference  to  the  rights  of  the 
natives.  In  ten  years  afterwards  they  were  engaged 
in  preparing  for  the  grand  revolt  which  gave  birth  to 
the  United  States  and  to  the  greatest  development 
of  self-government  ever  seen  in  the  world. 

As  they  were  setting  about  the  work  of  wresting 
the  New  World  from  the  grasp  of  the  monarchical 
system,  Cook  was  exploring  the  shores  of  the  other 
vast  continent  in  the  Southern  Sea,  where  the  spirit 
cf  British  institutions,  with  the  widest  extension  of 
constitutional  liberty,  may  yet  successfully  vindicate 
the  attachment  of  a  great  Anglo-Saxon  race  to  the 
Crown. 

There  are  many  in  America  who  think  the  colonies 
would  never  have  revolted  if  the  French  had  retained 
possession  of  Canada,  and,  indeed,  it  is  likely  enough 
the  Anglo-Saxons  would  have  held  to  the  connection 
if  the  Latin  race  had  been  sitting  upon  them  north- 
wards ;  but  the  political  accidents  and  the  military 


OUR  COLONIES. 


33 


results  which  expelled  the  fleur-de-lis  from  Canada, 
doubtless  created  an  unnatural  bond  of  union  between 
the  absolutist  Court  of  St.  Germains  and  the  precur- 
sors of  Anacharsis  Clootz  in  the  colonies.  To  the 
seer  there  might  have  been  something  ominous  in  the 
coalition. 

The  men  who  were  battling  for  the  divine  right  of 
kings  in  Europe  could  scarce  fight  for  the  divine  right 
of  man  in  America  without  danger.  The  kiss  which 
was  imprinted  at  Versailles  on  Franklin's  cheek,  by 
the  lips  of  a  royal  lady,  must  have  had  the  smack  of 
the  guillotine  in  it. 

Anyway,  we  must  allow,  the  French  Canadians, 
who  stood  by  us  shoulder  to  shoulder  and  beat  back 
the  American  battalions,  whose  power  to  invade  was 
mainly  derived  from  foreign  support,  showed  they  had 
a  surprising  nstinct  for  true  liberty.  No  doubt  they 
would  have  fought  at  least  as  stoutly,  had  the  arro- 
gant colonists  been  aided  by  red -coats,  for  the  sake  of 
the  white  banner  and  the  fleur-de-lis  ;  but  in  the  time 
of  trouble  and  danger  they  stood  loyally  by  the  Crown 
and  connection  of  England,  and  their  services  in  that 
day  should  not  be  lightly  forgotten. 

It  is  above  all  things  noteworthy,  perhaps,  that  the 
Americans  in  all  their  wars  with  the  mother-country 
have  sought  to  strike  swift  hard  blows  in  Canada,  and 
that  hitherto,  with  every  advantage  and  after  con- 
siderable successes,  they  have  been  driven,  weather- 
beaten  back,  and  bootless  hom>^  It  was  actually  on 
the  land  shaken  by  the  roar  of  these  falling  floods 
that  battles  have  been  fought,  and  that  the  air  has 
listened  in  doubt  to  the  voice  of  cannon  mingling 
with  the  eternal  chorus  of  the  cataract. 

There  are  here  two  points  at  which  Canada  lies 
open  to  the  invader.  The  first  lies  above  the  Rapids 
—  the  latter  is  below  them,  where  the  St.  Lawrence 
flows  into  the  lake.  Three  considerable  actions  and 
various  small  engagements  have  taken  place  on  the 
Canadian  side  of  the  river,  all  of  which  were  charac- 


i 


■  i 


34 


CANADA. 


terized  by  great  obstinacy  and  much  bloodshed.  Let 
us  consider  them,  and  see  what  can  or  ought  to  be 
done  in  order  to  guard  the  tempting  bank  which  offers 
such  an  excellent  base  of  operations  for  future  hos- 
tile occupation. 

An  inspection  of  the  map  will  show  the  Wellar  ' 
Canal,  running  from  Port  Maitland,  Dunnville,  and 
Port  Colborne,  on  Lake  Erie,  to  Lake  Ontario  at 
Port  Dalhousie.  The  command  of  this  canal  would 
be  of  the  very  greatest  importance  to  an  invading 
army,  as  it  would  establish  a  communication  inside 
the  Falls  of  Niagara ;  but  it  would  be  very  difficult 
to  obtain  such  a  command  so  as  to  prevent  the  de- 
struction of  the  canal  in  case  of  necessity.  It  is  ob- 
vious, however,  that  the  line  of  it  should  be  defended, 
and  that  garrisons  should  be  stationed  to  hold  points 
inside  the  line,  such  as  Erie  and  Chippewa,  to  render 
it  unsafe  for  the  enemy  to  move  down  inside  them. 
At  Fort  Erie  there  is  a  very  insignificant  work;  but, 
with  that  exception,  the  line  of  the  Welland  Canal 
may  be  considered  as  perfectly  open  and  defenceless 
—  not  by  any  means  as  utterly  indefensible. 

The  river  is  not  broad  enough  to  prevent  the  dwell- 
ers on  the  banks  from  indulging  in  hostilities  if  they 
pleased  ;  but  no  practical  advantage  would  be  gained 
in  a  campaign  by  any  operation  which  did  not  settle 
the  fate  of  the  Welland  Canal.  The  locks  will  per- 
mit vessels  142  feet  long,  with  26  feet  beam,  and 
drawing  10  feet  of  water,  to  pass  between  Erie  and 
Ontario  ;  and  from  the  latter  lake  to  the  sea,  or,  vice 
versdy  they  can  pass  by  the  St.  Lawrence  Canal, 
drawing  one  foot  less  water.  It  would  be  above  all 
things  important  to  prevent  an  enemy  getting  pos- 
session of  this  Welland  Canal.  It  would  not  suffice 
for  us  to  destroy  it  by  injuring  a  lock  or  the  like,  as 
such  an  act  would  militate  against  our  own  lines  of 
communication,  —  more  important  to  us,  who  have 
an  inferior  power  of  transport  on  the  lakes,  than  it 
would  be  to  the  Americans. 


THE  CLOUD  OVER  TUE  FALLS. 


35 


In  addition  to  a  well-devised  system  of  field-works, 
it  is  desirable  that  permanent  fortifications  should  be 
constructed  to  cover  the  termini  of  the  canal  and  the 
feeder  above  Port  Maitiand.  At  present,  the  defen- 
sive means  of  Fort  Erie,  at  the  entrance  of  the  river 
above  the  Rapids,  are  very  poor,  and  quite  inadequate 
to  resist  modern  artillery .  However,  this  subject  will 
be  best  discussed  when  I  come  to  speak  of  the  general 
defence  of  Canada. 

This  yawning  gap  is  barrier  enough  between  the 
two  countries  should  they  ever,  unhapp" -,  become 
belligerent,  but  the  banks  can  be  commanded  by 
either ;  and  in  case  of  war  the  bridge  would  no 
doubt  be  sacrificed  by  one  or  other,  as  well  as  the 
grander  structure  at  Montreal  would  be,  without 
some  special  covenant. 

When  still  a  mile  and  a  half  away,  a  whirling  pil- 
lar of  a  leaden  gray  color,  with  wreaths  of  a  lighter 
silvery  hue  playing  round  it,  which  rose  to  the  height 
of  seveial  hundred  feet  in  the  air,  indicated  the  posi- 
tion of  the  Falls.  The  vapor  was  more  solid  and 
gloomy-looking  than  the  cloudlike  mantle  which 
shrouds  the  cataract  oftentimes  in  the  summer.  I 
doubt  if  there  is  a  very  satisfactory  solution  of  its 
existence  at  all.  Of  course  the  cloud  is  caused  by 
particles  of  water  thrown  up  into  the  atmosphere  by 
the  violent  impact  of  the  water  on  the  surface,  and 
by  the  spray  thrown  off"  in  the  descent  of  the  torrent; 
but  why  those  particles  remain  floating  about,  in- 
stead of  falling  at  once  like  rain,  is  beyond  my  poor 
comprehension.  Sure  enough,  a  certain  portion  does 
descend  like  a  thick  Scotch  mist :  why  not  all  ?  As 
one  of  my  companions,  with  much  gravity  and  an  air 
of  profound  wisdom,  remarked  last  summer,  "It's 
probable  electricity  has  something  to  do  with  it ! " 
Can  any  one  say  more  ? 

Assuredly,  this  ever-rolling  mighty  cloud  draping 
and  overhanging  the  Falls  adds  much  to  their  weird 
and  wonderful  beauty.    Its  variety  of  form  is  infinite, 


\^ 


m'\ 


86 


CANADA. 


,1,1' 


^ 


m 


t 


changing  with  every  current  of  air,  and  altering  from 
day  id  day  in  height  and  volume  ;  but  I  never  looked 
at  it  without  fancying  I  could  trace  in  the  outlines 
the  indistinct  shape  of  a  woman,  with  flowing  hair 
and  drooping  arms,  veiled  in  drapery  —  now  crouch- 
ing on  the  very  surface  of  the  flood,  again  towering 
aloft  and  tossing  up  her  hands  to  heaven,  or  sinking 
down  and  bending  low  to  the  edge  of  the  cataract, 
as  though  to  drink  its  waters.  With  the  aid  of  an 
active  fancy,  one  might  deem  it  to  be  the  guardian 
spirit  of  the  wondrous  place. 

The  wind  was  unfavorable,  and  the  noise  of  the 
cataract  was  not  heard  in  all  its  majestic  violence ; 
but  as  we  came  nearer,  we  looked  at  each  other  and 
said  nothing.  It  grew  on  us  like  the  tumult  of  an 
approaching  battle. 

There  is  this  in  the  noise  of  the  Falls  :  produced  by 
a  monotonous  and  invariable  cause,  it  nevertheless 
varies  incessantly  in  tone  and  expression.  As  you 
listen,  the  thunder  peals  loudly,  then  dies  away  into 
a  hoarse  grumble,  rolls  on  again  as  if  swelled  by 
minor  storms,  clangs  in  the  ear,  and  after  a  while, 
like  a  river  of  sound  welling  over  and  irrepressible, 
drowns  the  sense  in  one  vast  rush  of  inexpressible 
grandeur  —  then  melts  away  till  you  are  almost 
startled  at  the  silence  and  look  up  to  see  the  Falls, 
like  a  green  mountain-side  streaked  with  fresh  snow- 
drifts, slide  and  shimmer  over  the  precipice. 

It  may  well  be  conceived  with  what  awe  and  su- 
perstitious dread  honest  Jesuit  Hennepin,  following 
his  Indian  guides  through  the  gloom  of  the  forest 
primeval,  gazed  on  the  dreadful  flood,  which  had 
then  no  garniture  of  trimmed  banks,  cleared  fields, 
snug  hotels,  and  cockney  gazabos  to  alleviate  the 
natural  terror  with  which  man  must  gaze  on  a  spec- 
tacle which  conjures  up  such  solemn  images  of  death, 
time,  and  eternity. 

No  words  can  describe  the  Falls ;  and  Church's 
picture,  very  truthful  and  wonderful  as  to  form,  can- 


■•■■r<  1 


AT  THE  FALLS. 


37 


not  convey  an  idea  of  the  life  of  the  scene  —  of  the 
motion  and  noise  and  shifting  color  which  abound 
there  ill  sky  and  water.  I  doubt,  indeed,  if  any  man 
can  describe  his  own  sensations  very  accurately,  for 
they  undergo  constant  change  ;  and  for  my  own  part 
I  would  say  that  the  effect  increases  daily,  and  that 
one  leaves  the  scene  with  more  vivid  impressions  of 
its  grandeur  and  beauty  than  is  produced  by  the  first 
coup'd'asil. 

A  gradual  approach  does  not  at  all  diminish  the 
power  of  the  cataract,  and  the  mind  is  rather  unduly 
excited  by  the  aspect  of  the  Styx-like  flood  —  black, 
foam-crested,  and  of  great  volume,  with  every  indi- 
cation of  profound  depth  —  which  hurries  on  so 
swiftly  and  so  furiously  below  the  road  on  which  you 
are  travelling,  between  banks  cut  down  through  grim, 
dark  rock,  so  sheer  that  the  tops  of  the  upper  trees 
which  take  root  in  the  strata  can  be  nearly  touched 
by  the  traveller's  stick.  The  idea  that  the  whole  of 
the  great  river  beneath  you  has  just  leaped  over  a 
barrier  of  rock  prepares  one's  conception  for  the 
greatness  of  the  cataract  itself. 

In  summer  time  there  were  wild  ducks  flying  about, 
and  terns  darted  up  and  down  the  stream.  Now  it 
was  deserted  and  desolate,  looking  of  more  inky  hue 
in  contrast  with  the  snow.  Close  to  the  boiling  cat- 
aract the  fishermen's  tiny  barks  might  then  be  seen 
rocking  up  and  down,  or  the  angler  sought  the  bass 
which  loves  those  turbulent  depth?  ;  but  no  such 
signs  of  human  life  and  industry  are  visible  in  winter. 

Before  Niagara  was,  odd  creatures  enough  lived 
about  here,  which  can  now  be  detected  fossilized  in 
the  magnesian  limestone.  How  many  myriads  of 
years  it  has  been  eating  away  its  dear  heart  and 
gnawing  the  rock,  let  Sir  Charles  Lyell  or  Sir  Roder- 
ick Murchison  calculate ;  but  I  am  persuaded  that 
since  I  saw  it  some  months  ago  there  has  been  a 
change  in  the  aspect  of  the  Horseshoe  Fall,  and  that 
it  has  become  more  deeply  curved.     The  residents, 

3 


38 


CANADA. 


■'Ill 


however,  though  admitting  the  occurrence  of  changes, 
say  they  are  very  slow,  and  tliat  no  very  rapid  al- 
teration has  taken  place  since  the  fall  of  a  great  par^ 
of  Table  Rock  some  years  ago  ;  but  masses  of  stone 
may  be  washed  away  every  day  without  their  know- 
ing it. 

One  very  natural  consequence  of  a  visit  in  the 
winter  was  undeniable  —  that  the  Falls  were  visibly 
less  :  they  did  not  extend  so  far,  and  they  rolled  with 
diminished  volume.  The  water  did  not  look  so  pure, 
and  incredible  icicles  and  hanging  glaciers  obscured 
the  outlines  of  the  rocks,  and  even  intruded  on  the 
watercourse  ;  whilst  the  trees  above,  laden  with  snow, 
stood  up  like  inverted  icicles  again,  and  rendered  it 
difficult  to  define  the  boundary  between  earth,  air, 
and  water. 

A  noiseless  drive  brought  us  to  the  village.  Clif- 
ton House  was  deserted  —  the  windows  closed,  the 
doors  fastened.  No  gay  groups  disported  on  the 
promenade  ;  but  the  bird-stuffer's,  the  Jew's  museum, 
the  photographer's  shed,  the  Prince's  triumphal  arch, 
were  still  extant ;  and  the  bazaars,  where  they  sell 
views,  sea-shells,  Indian  beadwork  and  feathers,  moc- 
casons,  stuffed  birds,  and  the  like,  were  open  and 
anxious  for  customers.  Our  party  was  a  godsend; 
but  the  worthy  Israelite,  who  has  collected  such  an 
odd  museum  here,  —  one,  under  all  the  circumstances, 
most  creditable  to  his  industry  and  perseverance  as 
well  as  liberality,  —  said  that  travellers  came  pretty 
often  in  fine  winter  weather  to  look  at  the  cataract. 
We  walked  in  our  moccasons  to  the  Table  Rock,  and 
thence  to  the  verge  of  the  Falls,  and  gazed  in  silence 
on  the  struggling  fury  of  the  terrible  Rapids,  which 
seem  as  if  they  wrestled  with  each  other  like  strong 
men  contending  against  death,  and  fighting  to  the 
last  till  the  fatal  leap  must  be  made. 

The  hateful  little  wooden  staircases,  which  like 
black  slugs  crawl  up  the  precipice  from  the  foot  of 
the  Falls,  caught  the  eyes  of  my  companions ;  and 


INSIDE  THE  FALLS. 


39 


3en  earth,  air, 


when  they  were  informed  that  they  could  go  down 
in  safety  and  get  some  way  belli nd  the  Fall  itself, 
the  place  was  invested  with  a  new  charm,  and  ice, 
rheumatism,  and  the  like,  were  set  at  defiance.  I 
knew  what  it  was  in  summer,  and  the  winter  journey 
did  not  seem  very  tempting ;  but  there  was  no  alter- 
native, and  the  party  returned  to  the  museum  to  pre- 
pare for  the  descent. 

Whilst  we  were  waiting  for  our  water-proof  dresses 
to  go  under  the  Falls,  we  had  an  opportunity  of  sur- 
veying the  changes  produced  by  winter,  and  I  was 
the  more  persuaded  that  the  effect  is  not  so  favorable 
as  that  of  summer.  The  islands  are  covered  with 
snow  —  that  which  divides  the  sweep  of  the  cataract 
looking  unusually  large ;  the  volume  of  water,  dimin- 
ished in  the  front,  is  also  deprived  of  much  of  its 
impressive  force  by  a  decrease  in  the  sound  produced 
by  its  fall.  The  edges  of  the  bank,  covered  with 
glistening  slabs  of  ice,  were  not  tempting  to  the  foot, 
and  could  not  be  appr  ached  with  the  confidence 
with  which  they  are  trod  by  one  of  steady  nerves 
when  the  actual  brink  is  visible. 

There  were  some  peculiarities,  however,  worthy  of 
note ;  and  in  a  brighter  day,  possibly  the  effect  of  the 
light  on  the  vast  ranges  of  icicles,  and  on  the  fan- 
tastic shapes  into  which  the  snow  is  cut  on  the  rocks 
at  the  margin  of  the  waters,  might  be  very  beautiful. 
These  rocks  now  looked  like  a  flock  of  polar  bears, 
twined  in  fantastic  attitudes,  or  extended  singly  and 
in  groups  by  the  brink  as  if  watching  for  their  prey. 
Above  them  rose  the  bank,  now  smooth  and  pol- 
ished, with  a  fringe  of  icicles  —  some  large  as  church- 
steeples;  above  them,  again,  the  lines  of  the  pine- 
trees,  draped  in  white,  and  looking  like  church- 
steeples  too.  At  one  side,  near  Table  Rock,  the 
icicles  were  enormous,  and  now  and  then  one  fell 
with  a  hissing  noise,  and  was  dashed  on  the  rock 
into  a  thousand  gliding  ice  arrows,  or  plunged  into 
the  gulf. 


40 


CANADA. 


By  this  time  our  toilette-room  was  ready,  and  each 
man,  taking  off'  his  overcoat,  was  encased  in  a  tar- 
paulin suit  with  a  sou'wester.  In  this  guise  we 
descended  the  spiral  staircase,  which  is  carried  in 
a  perpendicular  wooden  column  down  the  face  of  the 
bank  near  Table  Rock,  or  what  remains  of  it,  to  the 
rugged  margin,  formed  of  boulders  now  more  slippery 
than  glass. 

Our  guide,  a  strapping  specimen  of  negro  or  mu- 
latto, in  thick  solid  ungainly  boots,  planted  his  splay 
feet  on  them  with  certainty,  and  led  us  by  the  treach- 
erous path  down  towards  the  verge  of  the  torrent, 
which  now  seemed  sis  though  it  were  rushing  from 
the  very  heavens.  On  our  left  boiled  the  dreadful 
caldron  from  which  the  gushing  bubbles,  as  if  over- 
joyed to  escape,  lecped  up,  a.id  with  glad  efferves- 
cence rushed  from  the  abyss  which  plummet  never 
sounded.  On  our  right  towered  the  sheer  precipice 
of  rock,  now  overhanging  us,  and  gav  lished  with 
rows  of  giant  teeth-like  icicles. 

After  a  slow  cautious  advance  along  this  doubtful 
path,  we  perceived  that  the  thin  edge  of  the  cataract 
towards  which  we  were  advancing  shot  out  from  the 
rock,  and  left  a  space  between  its  inner  surface  and 
a  black  shining  wall  which  it  was  quite  possible  to 
enter.  There  was  no  wind,  the  day  was  dull  and 
raw,  but  the  downright  rush  of  the  water  created 
a  whirling  current  of  air  close  to  it  which  almost 
whisked  away  the  breath ;  and  a  vapor  of  snow,  fine 
sleet,  and  watery  particles  careered  round  the  en- 
trance to  the  recess,  which  no  water  kelpie  would  be 
venturesome  or  lonesome  enough  to  select,  except  in 
the  height  of  the  season. 

On  we  thus  went,  more  and  more  slowly  and 
cautiously,  over  the  polished  ice  and  rock,  till  at  last 
we  had  fairly  got  behind  the  cataract,  and  enjoyed 
the  pleasure  of  seeing  the  solid  wall  of  water  falling, 
falling,  falling,  with  the  grand  monotony  of  eternity, 
80  nigh  that  one  fancied  he  could  almost  touch  it 


PHOTOGRAPHS  AND  BAZAAR. 


41 


with  his  hand.  When  last  I  was  here,  it  was  pos- 
sible to  have  got  as  far  as  a  ledge  called  Termination 
Rock  ;  but  the  ice  had  accumulated  to  such  an  ex- 
tent that  the  guide  declared  the  attempt  to  do  so 
would  be  impracticable  or  dangerous,  and  indeed 
where  we  stood  was  not  particularly  safe  at  the  mo- 
ment. As  I  was  in  the  cave,  gazing  at  the  down- 
poured  ruin  of  waters  with  a  sense  of  security  as 
great  as  that  of  a  trout  in  a  mill-race,  an  icicle  from 
the  cliff  above  cracked  on  the  rocks  outside,  and 
threw  its  fragments  inside  the  passage.  I  own  the 
desire  I  had  to  get  on  still  further  and  pierce  in  be- 
hind the  cataract,  where  its  volume  was  denser,  was 
greater  than  the  gratification  I  derived  from  getting 
so  far.  But  we  had  reached  our  ultima  thule^  and, 
with  many  a  lingering  look,  retraced  our  steps  —  now 
and  then  halting  to  contend  the  better  with  the  gusts 
from  the  falls,  which  threaten  to  sweep  one  from  the 
ledge.  If  the  foot  once  slipped,  I  cannot  conceive 
a  death  more  rapid :  life  would  die  out  with  the 
thought,  "  I  am  in  the  abyss !  "  ere  a  cry  could  es- 
cape. 

Whilst  returning,  another  icicle  fell  near  at  hand ; 
therefore  it  is  my  humble  opinion  that  going  to  Ter- 
mination Rock  in  winter  is  not  safe  except  in  hard 
frost,  the  safer  plan  being  not  to  go  at  all.  And  yet 
no  one  has  ever  been  swept  or  has  slipped  in,  I  be- 
lieve, and  so  there  is  a  new  sensation  to  be  had  very 
easily.  The  path  on  our  return  seemed  worse  than 
it  was  on  our  going  —  a  very  small  slippery  ridge 
indeed  between  us  and  the  gulf;  but  danger  there 
can  be  but  little.  As  we  emerged  from  the  wooden 
pillar,  we  submitted  to  a  photographer  for  our  por- 
traits in  water-proof. 

Poor  man  !  In  summer  he  has  a  harvest,  perhaps  ; 
in  winter  he  gleans  his  corn  with  toil  and  sorrow, 
making  scenes  for  stereoscopes.  I  am  not  aware  that 
we  omitted  anything  proper  to  be  done ;  for  we  pur- 
chased feather  fans  —  the  grifls  did  —  and  bead  work 


'  il 


42 


CANADA. 


m   t 


!i 


and  other  "mementos  of  the  Falls,"  which  are  cer- 
tainly not  selected  for  any  apposite  quality.  As  if  the 
Falls  needed  a  bunch  of  feathers  and  beads  to  keep 
them  in  remembrance!  Well,  many  a  time  has  a 
lock  of  hair,  a  withered  flower,  the  feeblest  little  atom 
of  substantial  matter,  been  given  as  memento  ere 
now,  and  done  its  office  well. 

As  I  passed  by  Clifton  House  on  my  return  to 
the  American  side,  I  observed  a  solitary  figure  in 
a  blue  overcoat  and  brass  buttons,  pacing  rapidly 
up  and  down  under  cover  of  the  veranda.  Who 
on  earth  could  it  be  ?  It  can't  be  —  yes  it  is  — 
it  is,  indeed,  our  excellent  guardian  of  British  cus- 
toms  rights   and  revenues  —  good  Mr. .     The 

kindly  old  Scotchman  stares  in  surprise  when  he 
hears  his  name  from  an  unknown  passer-by,  but  in 
a  moment  he  remembers  our  brief  acquaintance  in 
summer  time.  Every  one  who  knows  him  would, 
I  am  sure,  be  glad,  with  me,  to  hear  that  some  better 

post  were  got  for  Mr. in  his  old  age  than  that 

of  watching  smugglers  on  the  waters  of  the  St. 
Lawrer:ce,  below  Niagara. 

After  a  brief  interview,  we  proceeded  on  our  way, 
and  continued  our  explorations.  Due  honor  was 
paid  to  the  Rapids,  Bath  Island,  Goat  Island,  the 
Cave  of  the  Winds,  Prospect  Tower,  and  all  the 
water  lions  of  the  place,  though  rain  and  sleet  fell 
at  intervals  all  the  time  when  there  was  no  snow. 

When  the  Prince  v^as  here  he  laid  the  last  stone 
of  the  obelisk  which  marks  the  place  where  Brock 
was  killed,  in  the  successful  action  against  the 
Americans  at  Queenstown  in  1812.  The  present 
monument  to  that  general  is  certainly  in  as  good 
taste  as  most  British  designs  of  the  sort,  and  seems 
but  little  open  to  the  censure  I  have  heard  directed 
against  it.  Its  predecessor  was  so  atrociously  bad, 
that  some  gentleman  of  fine  feelings  in  art,  who  was 
probably  an  American  and  a  Canadian  patriot  as 
\yell,  blew  it  up  some  years  ago. 


AMERICAN  SIDE  OF  THE  PALLS. 


43 


lo  snow. 


TiTere  are  not  wanting  at  the  present  time  many 
men  in  Canada  of  the  same  stuff  as  Brock  and  his 
men.  It  is  astonishing  to  find  the  easy  and  univer- 
sal conviction  prevailing  in  the  minds  of  Americans, 
contrary  to  their  experience,  that  the  conquest  of 
Canada  would  be  one  of  the  most  natural  and  facile 
feats  in  the  world. 

Except  in  their  first  war,  when  they  displayed 
energy  and  skill  in  the  attack  on  Quebec,  the  active 
operations  of  the  Republicans  in  Canada  were  not 
marked  by  any  military  excellence,  notwithstanding 
the  very  hard  fights  which  took  place,  but  they  showed 
themselves  most  formidable  opponents  when  they 
were  attacked  in  position. 

The  Canadian  side  of  the  Falls  boasts  of  charming 
scenery.  Even  in  the  snow,  the  neat  cottages  and 
houses  —  the  plantations,  gardens,  and  shrubberies  — 
evince  a  degree  of  taste  and  comfort  which  were  not 
so  observable  on  the  American  side,  notwithstanding 
the  superior  activity  of  the  population. 

Our  observations  on  our  return  to  the  right  bank 
of  the  river  confirmed  my  impression  concerning  the 
diminished  volume  and  effect  of  the  cataract.  The 
ice,  formed  by  spray,  hung  over  the  torrent,  which, 
always  more  broken  and  less  ponderous  than  that  on 
the  other  side,  is  in  summer  very  beautiful,  by  reason 
of  the  immense  variety  of  form  and  color  in  the  jets 
and  cascades,  and  of  the  ease  with  which  you  can 
stand,  as  it  were,  amid  the  very  waters  of  Niagara. 

The  town  half  populated,  —  the  monster  hotel 
closed,  —  the  swimming-baths,  in  which  one  could 
take  a  plunge  into  the  active  rapids  safely  enclosed 
in  a  perforated  room,  now  fastened  up  for  winter,  — 
presented  a  great  contrast  to  the  noise  and  bustle  of 
the  American  Niagara  in  the  season.  This  is  the 
time  when  the  Indians  enable  the  shopkeepers  to 
accumulate  their  stores  of  bead  and  feather  work  ; 
and  a  few  squaws,  dressed  in  a  curious  compromise 
between  the  garments  of  the  civilized  female   and 


M  ii 


I 


44 


CANADA. 


0 


the  simpler  robes  of  the  "  untutored  savage,"  fktted 
through  the  snow  from  one  dealer  to  another  with 
their  work.  In  some  housed  they  are  regularly  em- 
ployed all  day,  and  come  in  from  their  village  in  the 
morning,  and  go  home  at  night  when  their  work  is 
done. 

The  view  of  the  Rapids  from  the  upper  end  of 
Goat  Island  is  not,  to  my  mind,  as  fine  as  that  ob- 
tained from  the  island  on  the  British  side,  higher 
up.  The  sight  of  that  tortured  flood,  loaded  with 
its  charging  lines  of  "  sea-horses,"  —  its  surging  glis- 
tening foam-heaps  streaking  the  wide  exi  .•  \nse  which 
rolled  towards  us  from  a  dull  leaden  horizon,  —  was 
inexpressibly  grand  and  gloomy,  and  struck  me  more 
forcibly  than  the  aspect  of  the  Rapids  had  done  in 
August,  when  I  beheld  them  in  a  setting  of  rich 
green  landscape  and  f  i  >st. 

On  the  whole,  I  wouia  much  rather,  were  I  going 
to  Niagara  for  the  first  time,  select  the  Canadian  side 
for  my  first  view.  It  would  be  well  never  to  look  at 
the  Falls,  if  that  were  possible,  till  the  traveller  could 
open  his  eyes  from  the  remnant  of  the  Table  Rock 
on  the  Great  Horseshoe ;  but  curiosity  will  probably 
defeat  any  purpose  of  that  kind.  Still,  the  Horse- 
shoe is  grand  enough  to  grow  on  the  spectator  day 
after  day,  even  if  there  be  some  disappointment  in 
the  first  aspect.  The  noise,  though  it  shake  the  earth 
and  air,  is  not  of  the  violent  overwhelming  character 
which  might  have  been  expected  from  its  effect  on 
window-panes  and  shutters.  As  the  voice  of  a  man 
can  be  heard  in  the  din  of  battle  by  those  around 
him,  so  can  even  the  low  tones  of  a  clear  speaker  be 
distinguished  most  readily  close  to  the  brink  of  a 
cataract,  the  roar  of  which  at  times  is  very  audible, 
nevertheless,  from  twelve  to  fifteen  miles  away. 

The  only  dravvback  to  a  sojourn  on  the  Canadian 
side  is,  perhaps,  the  feeling  of  irritation  or  unrest 
produced  by  the  ceaseless  jar  and  tumult  of  the  Falls, 
which   become  wellnigh   unbearable  at   night,  and 


PICTURESQUENESS  OF  THE  FALLS. 


45 


yeX  one's  slumbers  with  unquiet  dreams,  in  which 
water  plays  a  powerful  part.  The  American  side  is 
iiot  so  much  affected  in  that  way.  The  Horseshoe 
presents  by  far  the  greatest  mass  of  water ;  its  rush 
is  grander — the  terrible  fathomless  gulf  into  which 
it  falls  is  more  awe-inspiring  than  anything  on  the 
American  side ;  but  the  latter  offers  to  the  visitor 
greater  variety  of  color — I  had  nigh  said  of  sub- 
stance —  in  the  water.  At  its  first  tremendous  blow 
on  the  seething  surface  of  the  basin,  the  column  of 
water  seems  to  make  a  great  cavern,  into  which  it 
plunges  bodily,  only  to  come  up  in  myriad  millions 
of  foaming  particles,  very  small,  bright,  and  distinct, 
like  minute,  highly  polished  shot.  These  gradually 
expand  and  melt  into  each  other  after  a  wild  dance 
in  the  caldroa,  which  boils  and  bubbles  with  its  aw- 
ful heil-broth  forever.  In  the  centre  of  the  Horse- 
shoe, which  is  really  more  the  form  of  two  sides  of 
an  .  ^btuse-angled  triangle,  the  water,  being  of  great 
deptii,  —  at  least  thirty  feet  where  it  falls  over  the 
precipice,  —  is  of  an  azure  green,  which  contrasts 
well  with  the  yellow,  white,  and  light  emerald  colors 
of  the  shallower  and  more  broken  portions  nearer 
the  sides. 

It  would  be  considered  rather  presumptuous  in 
any  one  to  think  of  improving  upon  Niagara,  but  I 
cannot  help  thinking  that  the  efjfect  would  be  in- 
creased immensely  if  the  island  which  divides  the 
cataract  into  the  Horseshoe  and  the  American  Falls, 
and  the  rock  which  juts  up  in  the  latter  and  sub- 
divides it  unequally,  were  removed  or  did  not  exist ; 
then  the  river,  in  one  grand  front  of  over  one  thou- 
sand yards,  would  make  its  leap  en  masse.  The 
American  Falls  are  destitute  of  the  beauty  given  by 
the  curve  of  the  leap  to  the  Horseshoe  ;  they  descend 
perpendicularly,  and  are  lost  in  a  sea  of  foam,  not 
in  an  abyss  of  water,  but  in  the  wild  confusion  of 
the  vast  rocks  which  are  piled  up  below.     But  they 

are  still  beautiful  exceedingly,  and  there  is  more  va- 

3* 


Ml 


i      I 
p        i 


■■■  B     •'■■( 


f 


I 
11     1 


I!' 


46 


CANADA. 


riety  of  scene  in  the  islands,  in  the  passage  over  the 
bridges  to  Goat  Island  and  to  the  stone  tower,  which 
has  been  built  amid  the  very  waters  of  the  cataract, 
so  that  one  can  stand  on  the  outside  gallery  and  look 
down  upon  the  Falls  beneath. 

Goat  Island  is  happily  intersected  with  good  drives 
and  walks,  laid  out  with  sufficiently  fair  taste  through 
the  natural  forest,  and  seats  are  placed  at  intervals 
for  the  accommodation  of  visitors.  It  is  no  dispar- 
agement to  the  manner  in  which  the  grounds  have 
been  ornamented  to  say  that  a  good  English  land- 
scape gardener  would  convert  the  island  into  the 
gem  of  the  world.  The  ornamentation  need  not  be 
overdone;  it  should  be  congruous  and  in  keeping 
with  the  Falls,  which  nature  has  embellished  with 
such  infinity  of  coloring.  As  it  is,  the  island  is  much 
visited.  Strange  enough,  the  softest  whispered  vows 
can  be  heard  amid  the  thunder  of  Niagara,  and  it 
is  believed  that  many  marriages  owe  their  happy 
inspiration  to  inadvertent  walking  and  talking  in 
these  secluded  yet  much-haunted  groves.  Saw-mills, 
paper-mills,  and  manufactories  delight  the  utilitarian 
as  he  gazes4on  the  Rapids  which  have  so  long  been 
wasting  their  precious  water-power,  and  it  is  not  un- 
likely that  a  thriving  town  may  grow  up  to  distress- 
ing dimensions  on  the  American  side  of  the  stream, 
at  all  events. 


AMERICAN  PREJUDICE. 


47 


CHAPTER  IV. 


Leave  Niacara.  —  Suspension  Bridge.  —  In  British  Territory.  —  Hamilton 
City.  —Buildings.  —  Proceed  Eastward.  —  Toronto.  —  Dine  at  Mess.  — 
Pay  Visits.  — Public  Edifices.  —  Sleighs.  —  Amusement  of  the  Boys.  — 
Camaraderie  in  the  Army.  —  Kindlv  Feeling  displayed. —  Journey  re- 
sumed towards  Quebec.  —  Intense  Cold.  —  Snow  l^andscape.  —  Morning 
in  the  Train.  —  Hunger  and  lesser  Troubles.  —  Kingston,  its  Rise  and 
military  Position;  Harbor,  Dockyards;  Its  Connection  with  the  Prince 
of  Wales's  Tour.  —  The  Upper  St.  Lawrence.  —  Canada  as  to  Defence. 

We  left  the  Falls  with  regret  —  the  "  city  of  the 
Falls  "  without  any  painful  emotion.  The  people  at 
the  hotel  were  perfectly  civil  and  obliging,  though 
they  bore  no  particular  good-will,  perhaps,  to  one 
whom  they  had  been  taught  to  regard  as  the  bitter 
enemy  and  traducer  of  their  country  and  their  cause. 

Our  guide  seemed  to  pity  us  for  our  folly  in 
going  to  such  a  place  as  Canada,  when  we  could, 
if  we  liked,  stay  in  an  American  hotel  in  the  States. 
He  assured  us  it  was  "only  fit  for  Irish,  French- 
men, and  free  niggers."  The  true  American  of  this 
type  is  perpaps  the  most  prejudiced  man  in  the 
world,  not  even  excepting  the  old  type  of  the  British 
farmer,  or  men  of  the  Sibthorp  epoch.  His  convic- 
tion of  his  immense  superiority  is  founded  on  the 
readiness  with  which  others  flock  to  serve  him.  By 
their  service  he  becomes  a  sort  of  aristocrat  in  regard 
to  all  immigrants,  and  can  live  without  having  re- 
course to  any  menial  office  or  duty.  I  presume  our 
hairy  friend  never  brushed  his  boots  in  his  life,  and 
would  sooner  wear  them  dirty  forever  than  stoop 
to  the  unwonted  task.  At  last  came  our  time  to 
depart. 

Our  sleighs  glided  smoothly  down  to  the  railway 
station  at  the  Clifton,  where  the  train  was  waiting 
to  take  us  over  the  Suspension  Lridge.    That  struct- 


I 


48 


CANADA. 


ure  is,  I  fear,  too  beautiful  to  last.  It  requires  a 
good  deal  of  coolness  and  custom  to  look  down 
from  it  on  the  fearful  flood  of  the  river  rolling  be- 
low, and  mark  the  vibration  as  a  heavy  train  passes 
over  it.  Then,  too,  there  is  the  influence  of  cold  on 
iron  to  be  considered,  the  effects  of  tension,  and  the 
like :  all  have  been  duly  provided  for ;  and  yet  the 
bridge  looks  very  light  and  very  graceful,  and  let  us 
hope  it  may  be  very  strong  and  very  lasting. 

In  five  minutes  we  were  in  British  territory.  The 
first  palpable  and  outward  sign  of  the  fact  was  an 
examination  of  our  luggage  by  the  customs  officers 
at  a  station  a  few  miles  from  the  frontier,  during 
which,  or  by  which,  one  of  the  party  lost  a  hat  and 
its  iifuardian  box.  The  examination  was  rendered 
as  little  irksome  as  possible  by  the  civility  of  the 
officials ;  and  it  made  me  quite  happy  to  see  the 
crowns  on  their  brass  buttons,  degraded  British  sub- 
ject as  I  was.  One  burly  fellow  congratulated  me 
on  "  escaping  alive  out  of  the  hands  of  the  Yankees, 
—  he  would  not  have  given  a  cent  for  my  Rfe  for 
the  last  six  months." 

Our  journey  was  not  so  much  impeded  by  snow 
as  we  expected.  It  is  forty-three  miles  from  Niagara 
to  the  rising  city  of  Hamilton,  and  we  were  little 
more  than  one  hour  and  a  quarter  in  doing  the  dis- 
tance. All  I  am  aware  of  is  that  on  our  way  we 
passed  through  vast  snow  -  fields,  by  the  mineral 
waters  of  St.  Catherine's,  the  frozen  canal,  and  that 
we  caught  glimpses  on  our  right  of  the  blue  expanse 
of  Lake  Ontario. 

The  first  sight  of  Hamilton  caused  a  rapid  change 
in  my  mind  respecting  the  condition  of  Canada,  and 
a  most  agreeable  feeling  of  surprise.  It  was  evident 
the  Americans  were  not  justified  in  their  affected  de- 
preciation of  the  Provinces,  if  they  contained  such 
towns  as  these.  Despite  the  unfavorable  circum- 
stances under  which  it  was  visited,  the  city  presented 
an  appearance  of  comfort  and  prosperity  which  even 


HAMILTON. 


49 


a  democratic  people  might  envy,  and  which  scarcely 
justified  the  corporation  in  refusing,  as  I  hear  they 
do,  to  rely  on  local  sources  for  liquidation  of  certain 
claims  against  them. 

Fine-looking  streets,  a  forest  of  spires,  important 
public  buildings,  did  no  discredit  to  the  old  standard 
which  floated  over  the  Custom-house  near  the  sta- 
tion. And  yet  it  was  not  possible  to  help  remarking 
that  the  passengers  in  the  train  were  reading  Ameri- 
can, not  Canadian,  newspapers.  They  were  enjoying 
the  fruits  of  American  piracy  in  their  more  serious 
studies.  The  literary  thefts  of  the  sanctimonious 
Harpers,  who  play  forever  on  the  moods  and  tenses 
of  the  verb  to  steal,  were  in  the  hands  of  all  the 
people  who  were  reading  books. 

Not  alone  the  British  flag  did  we  see  at  Hamilton, 
but  the  British  soldier ;  for  at  the  doorway  of  the 
hotel  were  two  well-known  faces.  A  battalion  of 
the  Rifle  Brigade  was  expected  every  moment,  and 
two  ofl[icers  had  been  sent  on  to  provide  for  their  re- 
ception, as  there  were  no  barracks  to  receive  the 
force,  and  they  were  hunting  up  house-owners  to  let 
their  premises  on  the  instant.  It  may  be  imagined 
that  house-owners  take  a  favorable  view  for  them- 
selves of  the  value  of  property  thus  suddenly  in  re- 
quest; and  the  officers  were  proportionately  indig- 
nant with  those  griping  Canadians,  as  if  they  would 
have  met  different  treatment  from  English  colonists 
anywhere. 

Hamilton  is  a  city  of  some  20,000  inhabitants. 
It  is  on  a  bay  (Burlington),  which  runs  in  at  the 
west  of  Lake  Ontario  north  of  the  peninsula  formed 
by  the  lake,  by  the  St.  Lawrence,  by  Lake  Erie,  and 
by  the  river  falling  into  Erie  at  Maitland.  It  is  on 
the  rail  between  the  west  from  Detroit  and  London, 
the  southeast  from  the  States,  and  the  east  from 
Toronto,  Montreal,  and  Quebec.  In  event  of  war 
it  is  exposed  to  an  attack  by  any  American  gunboat 
from  the  harbors  on  the  south  shore  of  Lake  Ontario, 


I 


iii  i 


a?!   - 


I'^i 


50 


CANADA. 


and  yet,  to  the  best  of  my  belief,  it  is  utterly  desti- 
tute of  defence,  and  has  not  even  a  martello  tower 
for  its  protection. 

The  name  is  not  fifty  years  old,  Pnd  twenty  years 
ago  Hamilton  had  less  than  4000  inhabitants.  Its 
growth  bears  no  comparison  with  that  of  some  Amer- 
ican cities,  but  it  is  still  very  remarkable,  and  its 
wealth,  importance,  and  defencelessness  are  quite 
sufficient  to  make  it  an  object  of  attack.  The  houses 
are  built  of  stone.  Banks,  hotels,  manufactories, 
churches  —  well  constructed  and  handsome  —  give 
proof  of  the  prosperity  of  the  community ;  and  the 
residence  there  of  Sir  Alan  MacNab,  who  lived  some- 
where in  the  vicinity  in  a  bran  new  mediaeval  castle, 
should  be  some  guaranty  for  their  loyalty.  Indeed, 
I  was  told  that  in  no  place  had  the  Prince  a  more 
gratifying  or  enthusiastic  reception. 

But  men  without  discipline,  organization,  or  defen- 
sive works  can  do  but  little  against  gunboats.  It  is 
true  that  Hamilton  would  not  be  of  much  service  to 
the  enemy,  as  it  would  not  command  the  communi- 
cations ;  but  its  possession  by  them  would  be  very 
embarrassing,  and  its  destruction,  for  lack  of  means 
to  defend  it,  would  be  very  discreditable.  The  pop- 
ulation ought  to  yield  at  least  4000  able-bodied  men 
for  local  service  ;  and  a  casemated  work,  armed  with 
powerful  guns,  could  keep  a  mere  mtschief-seeking 
gunboat  at  proper  distance,  and  save  the  place  from 
destruction  or  injury. 

Our  halt  at  Hamilton  was  brief,  and  soon  we  were 
on  our  way  eastwards  once  more,  skirting  the  shores 
of  the  lake,  fenced  in  by  a  monotonous  line  of  snow- 
laden  fir-trees  and  palings.  The  people  who  got  in 
and  out  at  the  stations  were  of  a  different  race  from 
the  Americans  —  stouter  and  ruddier  of  hue,  and 
many  of  them  spoke  with  a  Scotch  or  Irish  accent, 
the  former  predominating.  They  did  not  talk  much 
about  anything  but  the  weather,  and  did  not  give 
themselves  concern  about  anything  except  the  winter 


TORONTO. 


51 


and  its  prospects,  having  made  up  their  minds  long 
ago  that  there  was  to  be  no  fight  between  England 
and  the  United  States. 

Just  iXii  it  became  dusk  we  reached  Toronto,  hav- 
ing accomplished  the  thirty-eight  miles  in  two  hours; 
but  late  as  it  was,  we  could  make  out  the  |)icturesque 
outlines  of  a  large  city.  Close  to  the  station  a  line 
of  sleighs,  and  a  mass  of  well-dressed  people  drawn 
up  by  the  margin  of  a  sheet  of  ice,  on  which  a  skated 
crowd  were  whirling  about,  gave  an  air  of  gayety  to 
the  place. 

A  sharp  smart  sleigh-drive,  and  we  were  at  the 
comfortable  hotel  called  Rossin  House,  where  an  in- 
vitation from  the  officers  of  Her  Majesty's  30th  to 
dinner  was  awaiting  us.  They  were  quartered  in  a 
substantial  old-fashioned  barrack  on  the  shore  of 
Lake  Ontario,  some  distance  outside  the  city.  The 
barracks  are  surrounded  by  an  earthen  parapet,  pro- 
vided with  traverses  and  embrasures,  and  there  is  a 
very  quaint  and  fantastic  earthen  redoubt  on  the 
beach,  but  any  ordinary  vessel  of  war  could  lay  the 
whole  establishment  in  ruins  with  perfect  impunity 
in  half  an  hour. 

The  mess-table  was  surrounded  by  an  unusual 
number  of  old  Crimean  oflficers,  and  I  was  glad  to 
find  the  fears  I  had  entertained,  that  the  inducements 
offered  by  the  Americans  to  soldiers  to  desert,  had 
not  as  yet  given  any  considerable  increase  to  the  ten- 
dency in  that  direction,  which  causes  such  anxiety 
to  regimental  officers  stationed  near  the  frontier. 
Whilst  I  remained  at  Toronto,  I  dined  daily  at  the 
same  hospitable  board. 

A  snapping  fierce  wind,  laden  with  icy  arrows,  set 
in  the  day  after  our  arrival.  In  the  afternoon,  how- 
ever, I  sleighed  out  and  visited  the  bishop,  one  of  the 
most  lively,  agreeable  men  conceivable,  of  the  age 
of  ninety  or  thereabouts ;  Mr.  Brown,  who  is  one  of 
the  powers  of  the  State,  and  the  editor  and  owner  of 
the  ablest  paper  in  West  Canada ;  the  mayor,  and 
other  Torontians  of  eminence. 


M. 

"i' 

■M 


r 


'I       • 


'  'i 

m 

m 


k 


52 


CANADA. 


The  city  is  so  very  surprising  in  the  extent  and 
excellence  of  its  public  edifices,  that  I  was  fain  to 
write  to  an  American  friend  at  New  York  to  come 
lip  and  admire  what  had  been  done  in  architecture 
under  a  monarchy,  if  he  wished  to  appreciate  the 
horrible  state  of  that  branch  of  the  fine  arts  under  his 
democracy.  Churches,  cathedrals,  market,  post-office, 
colleges,  schools,  mechanics'  institute,  rise  in  impe- 
rial dignity  over  the  city  ;  but  there  was  a  visible 
deterioration  in  the  beer  and  billiard  saloons,  and  the 
drinking  exchanges.  The  shops  are  large,  and  well 
furnished  with  goods,  and  trade  even  now  is  brisk 
enough,  considering  the  time  of  the  year.  All  this 
is  within  an  enemy's  grasp,  and  more,  than  this,  the 
command  of  the  railway  east  and  west. 

In  this  winter  time  the  streets  are  filled  with 
sleighs,  and  the  air  is  gay  with  the  carolling  of  their 
bells.  Some  of  these  vehicles  are  exceedingly  ele- 
gant in  form  and  finish,  and  are  provided  with  very 
expensive  furs,  not  only  for  the  use  of  the  occupants, 
but  formere  display.  The  horses  are  small,  spirited 
animals,  of  no  great  pretension  to  beauty  or  breed- 
ing. The  people  in  the  streets  were  well  dressed, 
comfortable-looking,  well-to-do,  —  not  so  tall  as  the 
people  in  New  York,  but  stouter  and  more  sturdy- 
looking.  Their  winter  brings  no  discomfort;  for  fuel 
is  abundant  and  not  dear,  and  when  the  wind  is  not 
blowing  high,  the  weather  is  very  agreeable. 

Here,  again,  I  observed  that  the  young  people 
have  a  curious  custom  of  going  about  with  small 
sleighs,  which  are,  to  the  best  of  my  belief,  called 
"  tarboggins,"  though  I  did  not  see  them  indulge  in 
the  practice  by  which  the  youth  of  New  York  vex 
and  fret  the  drivers  of  all  vehicles  in  sleighing-time. 
I  have  been  amused  by  observing  the  urchins  in  the 
Empire  City  prowling  about  with  these  primitive 
sleighs,  watching  for  an  opportunity  to  exercise  their 
talents.  Fortunate  it  is  for  the  British  coachman 
that  the  youth  of  the-^e  islands  are  not  acquainted 


TARBOr.QININO. 


53 


with  this  pleasing  mode  of  locomotion.  Onr  omni- 
buses, hfiviiig  a  conductor  beliind,  would  be  b(»tt(T 
defended  thjin  the  American  vehicles,  which  havi?  no 
such  protection  ;  but  the  four-wheeled  cabn  would 
fall  a  helpless  prey  into  their  hands. 

The  sport  is  carried  on  in  this  wise  :  the  youths 
take  their  tarboggin  or  sleigh,  —  a  flat  piece  of  board 
four  feet  long,  with  or  without  runners,  will  do; 
through  a  hole  at  one  end  is  attached  a  piece  of 
cord.  The  boys  watch  their  opportunity,  and  when 
a  v<?hicle  passes,  noiselessly  on  the  snow  they  run 
out,  slip  the  cord  over  the  iron  or  any  projection  of 
the  carriage  behind,  and,  holding  the  end  fast,  throw 
themselves  down  on  their  sleigh,  which  is  dragged 
along  by  the  vehicle ;  and  if  cabby  should  arise  in 
his  wrath,  in  an  instant  the  end  of  the  cord  is  let  go, 
and  the  young  navigator,  starting  to  his  feet,  runs 
off  with  his  instrument  of  torture  in  search  of  a  new 
victim.  It  adds  much  to  this  entertainment  for  one 
boy  to  catch  hold  of  the  leg  or  the  sleigh  of  another 
boy,  so  that  a  string  of  four  or  five  youths  may  be 
seen  in  full  enjoyment  of  the  recreation.  Bless  them ! 
If  I  had  not  seen  them  following  this  sport,  I  should 
have  fairly  doubted  if  there  were  any  boys  in  the 
United  States. 

If  there  was  not  all  the  cordiality  which  could  be 
desired  between  the  natives  and  the  military,  no  fault 
could  be  found  with  the  full  measure  of  hospitality 
dealt  out  to  their  own  countrymen  by  the  officers  of 
the  garrison.  Removed  from  the  stifli'ness  of  home 
stations,  the  genial,  kindly  character  of  our  young 
soldiers  expatiates,  in  despite  of  middling  cookery  and 
colonial  wines,  and  keeps  open  house  for  friends  on 
foreign  service.  When  sleighing  for  the  day  is  over, 
and  the  skating  party  has  come  to  an  end,  it  is  hard 
indeed  for  poor  Jones  to  think  of  anything  more  than 
his  dinner ;  but  if  he  made  the  most  of  his  opportu- 
nities, he  might  write  a  book  in  the  solitude  of  his 
barrack,  as  those  famous  prisoners  have  done  whose 


i 

( 


f   i' 


I 


54 


CANADA. 


brains  have  conceived  and  brought  forth  such  brill* 
iant  works  in  the  darkness  of  the  Tower. 

The  snows  are  wellnigh  as  binding  and  environ- 
ing for  a  third  of  the  year  in  bad  seasons,  and  no 
doubt  something  would  come  of  it  all,  but  that 
the  officer  has  his  duties  to  attend  to,  and  cannot 
escape  from  Private  lOOO's  stoppages,  grievances,  or 
failings.  Now,  it  is  no  easy  matter  indeed  for  British 
officers  to  be  very  great  friends  in  the  same  regiment. 
Of  course  you  will  find  Pylades  and  Orestes  there ; 
but  you  may  be  sure,  if  you  do,  they  are  men  who 
have  no  clashing  interests,  no  contest  of  purses,  no 
conflicting  views  about  leave  or  steps.  It  is  to  me 
quite  wonderful,  all  things  considered,  how  bravely 
the  natural  kindliness  of  our  officers  contends  against 
a  system  which,  with  all  its  advantages,  creates  a 
source  of  rivalry  and  jealousy  not  known  in  other 
services. 

In  a  promotion-by-seniority  service  there  can  of 
course  be  no  feeling  against  a  man  on  the  part  of  his 
juniors  because  he  happens  to  be  older ;  but  no  one 
can  well  brook  the  greater  fortune  which  depends  on 
the  command  of  money,  —  though  he  may  be  willing 
to  seize  on  it,  if  he  can,  by  the  same  means,  —  in  the 
case  of  his  own  juniors.  I  do  not  speak  without 
some  small  knowledge  when  I  say  that  there  is  a 
much  larger  amount  of  camarnderie  in  our  service 
than  ought  to  be  found  in  it,  but  that  there  is  much 
less  than  exists  in  some  other  armies.  The  French 
officer  is  jealous  of  the  man  promoted  by  merit,  for 
the  declaration  of  that  superiority  is  a  tacit  censure 
on  himself,  and  he  is  also  prone  to  take  umbrage  at 
the  good  fortune  of  the  immortels  of  the  mat  major ; 
but  he  has  little  ground  for  antipathy  to  any  of  h«s 
own  set,  as  regards  social  position  or  military  rank 
in  the  corps. 

Our  strong  love  of  field-sports  also  tends  to  create 
small  difficulties  when  at  home,  from  which  spring 
other   causes  of  estrangement.     One  man,  for   in- 


IjlJllh; 


TORONTO. 


55 


stance,  waYits  to  get  to  the  spring-meeting  when 
another  is  burning  for  the  spring-fishing  —  shooting- 
leaves  and  hunting-leaves  clash  together,  though  in 
no  army  in  the  world  is  there  such  a  liberal  system 
of  furlough  as  in  our  own.  These  causes  do  not 
operate  in  Canada,  where  there  is  now,  in  fact,  but 
little  sport  of  any  kind  within  easy  distances.  Moose 
shooting  in  snow  is  slow  work,  and  for  other  game 
the  sportsman  must  wander  far  and  wide.  But  when 
the  table  is  set,  and  the  full  tide  of  conversation  flows, 
what  a  cheery  group  of  warriors,  young  and  old,  may 
be  seen  in  Canadian  quarters!  They  have  had 
sleighing  parties  and  skating  adventures,  and  alto- 
gether have  got  over  the  day  somehow,  and  are  pre- 
pared to  look  pleasantly  on  the  world,  albeit  the  snow 
is  two  feet  deep  over  it. 

As  to  the  position  aft'orded  by  the  buildings  in  these 
particular  old  barracks  in  Toronto,  no  more  uncom- 
fortable place  could  well  be  imagined  in  face  of  an 
enemy.  The  defences  are  so  ludicrous  that  a  Chinese 
engineer  would  despise  them.  Certainly,  we  have  no 
right  to  laugh  at  Americans,  or  to  hold  their  works 
in  petto,  if  we  take  one  glance  at  the  fortifications  of 
Toronto ;  and  yet,  as  will  be  seen,  it  is  a  place  of 
the  very  greatest  importance. 

My  stay  here  would  have  been  longer,  perhaps, 
but  that  1  was  informed  of  a  very  kindly  intention 
on  the  part  of  the  people  which  1  did  not  desire  to 
have  carried  out,  at  all  events  under  the  existing  cir- 
cumstances—  being  in  hopes  that  a  future  opportu- 
nity would  occur  of  proving  that  I  was  not  inditler- 
ent  to  the  good  feeling  and  very  ilattering  sentiments 
of  the  gemiemen  who  had  conuncnced  the  movement 
towards  myself;  and  so,  in  the;  sure  ho|)e  that  I  would 
be  back  in  Toronto  ere  1  left  America,  I  bade  my 
good  friends  good-by,  never,  as  it  prov(?s,  in  all  likeli- 
hood to  see  them  again,  and,  in  the  midst  of  a  snow- 
fall, resumed  my  journey  with  my  companions 
towards  Quebec. 


^llli 


1  Wh- 

1       Tr' 


!«l«. 


I 


I 


4  •       ■k- 


U  mS 


56 


CANADA. 


After  undergoing  a  year  of  obloquy,  ill-looks,  slan- 
der, and  popular  disfavor  in  a  great  country,  it  was 
very  pleasant  to  meet  with  such  marks  of  good-will 
and  kindness  from  one's  countrymen  ::nd  fellow- 
subjects  on  the  same  continent ;  and  it  was  quite  as 
gratifying  to  know  that  such  feelings  were  entertained 
by  them,  as  it  would  have  been  to  receive  the  out- 
ward token  of  their  existence,  which  alone  would  have 
contented  my  friends. 

The  evening  on  which  I  left  Toronto  was  intensely 
cold.  Never  for  a  moment  had  the  snow  and  frost 
relented,  and  a  wind  of  piercing  keenness  swept  up 
the  frozen  dust  in  thick  clouds,  which  penetrated 
every  chink.  The  railway  officials  did  their  best  for 
us,  and  the  stove  in  the  carriage  was  poked  up,  to 
excessive  energy  ;  but  the  heat  of  these  calorifiers  is 
worse  than  cold  itself. 

Our  way  lay  through  a  snow-field  bordered  by 
snow-hills,  or  by  the  stiff  cones  of  snow-covered  firs. 
Our  fellow-passengers  were  big  men  in  fur-coats  and 
thick  boots,  who  were  given  to  silence  and  sleep. 
Slowly  the  train  creaked  through  the  soft  barrier 
which  so  gently  yet  stiffly  opposed  the  tramp  of  the 
iron  horse.  The  landscape  was  simply  nothing  to  see. 
It  looked  as  if  one  were  going  forever  through  -  a 
vast  array  of  newly  washed  sheets  spread  over  the 
whole  country.  Darkness  fell  suddenly  out  of  the 
skies  on  the  whiteness,  but  still  could  not  darken  it. 
The  whiteness  shone  through  the  depths  of  night, 
and  flashed  out  in  streaks  of  dazzling  light,  as  the 
flare  of  the  engine-fires  and  of  the  lamps  shot  out 
over  the  surface.  And  so  it  came  to  pass  that  at  last 
we  went  to  sleep,  gathering  up  rug  and  great-coat  and 
wrapper  into  vast  mounds,  from  which  issued  many 
a  spiritus  asper  and  susurrous  sounds  for  the  livelong 
nighu 

On  waking  up  it  seemed  as  though  day  had  just 
dawned,  but  the  watch  said  it  was  nearly  eight 
o'clock.     A  cold  white  light,  filled  with  rime,  bat- 


FOUL  AIR. 


67 


tied  through  the  frost  on  the  windows  of  the  carriage, 
which  was  spread  over  the  glass  like  beautiful  damas- 
cened white  table-cloths.  Scraping  away  a  lovely- 
trellis  pattern  with  my  nail,  I  opened  a  space  of  clear 
transparent  ocean  in  the  ice-sea,  and  was  rewarded 
for  my  pains  by  a  view  of  a  cloud  of  snow  which  had 
been  falling  all  night,  and  now  rested  deep  on  the 
ground,  and  turned  the  pines  and  firs  bounding  the 
line  of  rail  into  ragged  white  tumuli. 

The  train  still  creaked  and  bumped  now  and  then 
over  the  snow,  squeaked,  puffed,  and  grated,  and  at 
last  came  to  a  standstill,  again  wert  on,  and  again 
halted.  At  last  we  reached  a  station.  Seven  hours 
behind  time !  A  sensation  of  hunger  by  no  means 
slight  fell  upon  us.  Frost  is  an  appetizer  of  un- 
doubted merit.  We  had  neglected  laying  in  a  viati- 
cum. More  prudent  and  accustomed  travellers  pro- 
duced flasks  and  brown-paper  parcels,  and  all  the 
wonderful  things  which  Americans  consume  on  the 
voyage.  Let  me  not  be  fastidious,  however;  for 
after  a  time  I  envied  meii.  vvho  were  discussing  pleas- 
antly fragments  of  unseemly  cakes,  spice-nuts,  and 
brandy-balls  for  breakfast. 

My  companions  prowled  up  and  down  the  horrid 
car,  reeking  with  the  stove-drawn  odors  of  many 
bodies  during  the  night — they  sought  food  like  young 
lions.  Pah  !  what  an  atmosphere  it  was !  —  all  win- 
dows closed  by  reason  of  cold  intense  outside,  the 
hateful  stoves,  one  in  the  centre  of  the  car,  and  one  at 
each  end,  heated  almost  to  redness,  surrounded  by 
men  who  crowded  up,  and  thewed  tobacco,  and 
smote  the  iron  surface  with  hissing  burnt-sienna- 
colored  jets  y —  frowsty,  fusty,  and  muggy  exceed- 
ingly. There  was  a  deposit  of  train-oil, —  a  hot 
humanized  dew  all  over  us.  And  water,  there  was 
none  to  wash  with.  So  I  applied  a  handful  of  snow 
gathered  on  the  carriage  platform  to  my  face  and 
handi  in  lieu  thereof,  and  got  back  to  my  seat  just 
as    A n  returned  from  some  distant  part  of  the 


i ' 


lltt 


58 


CANADA. 


i 


\  : 


It     ■» 


ir 


ii  ^: 


train  with  hands  full  of  apples.  They  were  delicious, 
and  with  three  or  four  of  them,  and  a  few  cigars,  we 
mi.i.aged  to  construct  a  charming  breakfast. 

It  was  so  dark  when  the  train  reached  Kingston, 
that  we  could  see  nothing  more  than  the  outlines 
of  the  station.  I  was  exceedingly  anxious  to  visit  a 
place  of  so  much  importance  historically,  commer- 
cially, and  strategically,  and  fully  intended  to  remain 
there  for  some  days  on  my  return  to  Toronto ;  but 
the  Fates  ordained  that  it  was  not  to  be,  and  all  my 
personal  knowledge  of  Kingston  was  derived  from 
that  glimpse  in  the  dark  of  the  railway  terminus, 
and  certain  steeples  and  spires  rising  above  the  snow. 
But  the  position  of  the  city  confers  upon  it  a  very 
high  place  on  the  list  of  military  posts  for  the  defence 
of  Canada,  and  some  considerations  connected  with 
it  will  be  discussed  hereafter. 

Politically  Kingston  has  become  a  dead  body  since 
1844,  when  its  short-lived  career  as  the  capital  and 
seat  of  government  was  cut  short.  The  military 
genius  of  the  French  occupants  in  early  days,  in  seiz- 
ing on  the  best  positions  for,  the  defence  and  main- 
tenance of  their  conquest,  is  shown  still,  by  the  fact 
that  our  forts  occupy  the  sites  of  those  which  were 
originally  constructed  by  them.  More  than  a  hun- 
dred years  before  there  was  any  trace  of  a  city  at 
Kingston,  or  any  building  save  the  wigwam  of  the 
Indian  or  the  log-huts  of  the  soldiery,  the  Count  de 
Frontenac  built  a  fort  in  communication  with  the 
great  system,  from  the  St.  Lawrence  to  the  Ohio,  of 
the  French  strongholds,  which  was  destined  to 
extend  to  the  Mississippi,  and  to  enclose  the  trouble- 
some English  Colonies  within  stringent  limits. 
When  this  fort  was  captured  by  Colonel  Bradstreet 
in  1756,  the  French  had  only  established  a  kind  of 
military  colony  and  a  very  insignificant  trading-post 
round  the  fort.  In  little  more  than  twenty  years 
subsequently  the  present  town  was  founded ;  and  in 
the  war  with  America  the  place  became  of  very 
great  consequence. 


KINGSTON. 


59 


It  is  a  fact  curious  enough,  and  worthy  of  some 
consideration,  that  the  great  war  in  the  middle  of  the 
last  century,  which  ended  in  the  loss  to  France  of  her 
hopes  of  Indian  influence  and  of  empire,  and  in  the 
seizure  of  her  American  Colonies  by  Great  Britain, 
should  have,  according  to  the  best  of  American 
statesmen  and  philosophical  reasoners,  led  also  to  the 
establishment  of  the  United  States,  and  the  founda- 
tion of  the  greatest  Republic  the  world  has  ever  seen. 

Kingston  commands  the  entrance  to  the  Rideau 
Canal,  one  of  the  principal  means  of  communication 
between  Lake  Ontario  and  the  interior  of  the  country, 
forming  an  admirable  connection  between  the  Ottawa 
River  and  Lake  Ontario :  it  is,  in  fact,  the  most  im- 
portant means  of  inland  intercourse,  because  the 
difficulties  in  the  way  of  an  enemy  are  very  con- 
siderable, either  in  a  direct  attacl^  upon  Kingston,  if 
properly  fortified,  or  in  a  flank  movement  against  it 
from  the  interior. 

The  canal  is  brought  into  working  order  with  the 
Grand  Trunk  Railway ;  so  that  if  the  Americans,  our 
only  possible  enemy,  were  to  make  demonstrations 
against  our  frontier  and  our  lines,  with  a  view  of  in- 
tercepting our  supplief  and  internal  relations  between 
the  east  and  west  of  the  province,  it  would  be  easy  to 
disembark  men  and  munitions  at  Kingston  Mills  and 
forward  them  by  railway.  Kingston,  again,  is  an  ex- 
cellent point  of  observation,  and  with  proper  defences 
and  aggressive  resources,  ought  to  command  Lake 
Ontario  and  the  entrance  from  the  St.  Lawrence. 
An  adequate  force  stationed  there,  with  a  proper 
flotilla,  could  effiectuaUy  keep  in  check  any  hostile 
demonstration  from  Cape  Vincent,  Sacket's  Harbor, 
or  the  other  posts  from  Oswego  to  the  western  ex- 
tremity of  iJake  Ontario. 

The  harbor  is  said  to  be  excellent ;  there  is  a  dock- 
yard, which  could  be  rendered  capable  of  doing  most 
of  the  work  required  for  our  light  gunboats  ;  and 
with  the  additions  pointed  out  and  urged  by  our  en- 


ii^ 


III 


60 


CANADA. 


gineer  officers  to  the  existing  fortifications,  Kingston 
could  be  made  a  position  of  as  much  military  strength 
as  it  undoubtedly  now  is  of  strategical  importance. 

Between  Toronto  and  Kingston  there  are,  however, 
Port  Hope,  Coburg,  and  Belville  on  the  line  of  rail- 
way, all  of  which  present  facilities  for  the  landing  of 
an  enemy :  at  any  one  of  these  points  a  hostile  oc- 
cupation would  cut  the  regular  communications  at 
once  ;  and  indeed  it  is  very  much  to  be  regretted,  in 
a  military  point  of  view,  that  engineering,  commer- 
cial, or  other  considerations  caused  the  makers  of  the 
Grand  Trunk  Railway  to  run  the  line  close  to  the 
shores  of  a  great  inland  sea,  the  opposite  side  of  which 
belongs  to  a  foreign  country  which  has  from  time  to 
time  announced  (if  not  through  the  lips  of  statesmen, 
by  the  popular  voice)  that  the  conquest  of  Canada  is 
a  fixed- principle  in  its  policy. 

The  Americans,  whether  by  accident  or  design, 
have  constructed  the  New  York  Central,  which  runs 
along  the  south  coast,  at  a  distance  of  many  miles 
from  Lake  Ontario,  but  cross-lines  connect  it  with 
the  principal  ports  upon  the  lake,  from  Buffalo  to 
Sandusky  ;  their  line  runs  tolerably  close  to  the  shore 
of  Lake  Erie  higher  up,  but  there  is  no  position  on 
that  lake  which  has  to  fear  the  aggression  of  such  a 
force  as  could  be  collected  at  Kingston. 

Perhaps  to  the  generality  of  people  in  England, 
Kingbtcii  was  first  made  known  by  the  unpleasant 
incidence  which  compelled  the  Prince  of  Wales  to 
pass  it  unvisited,  or  rather  to  remain  on  board  the 
steamer.  No  doubt  the  Orangemen  are  now  very 
sorry  for  what  they  did,  and,  in  fact,  feel  that  they 
were  led  by  the  fanaticism  or  the  desire  for  notoriety 
of  some  small  local  leaders  to  make  themselves  very 
ridiculous  and  offensive.  The  zeal  of  the^e  Defenders 
of  the  Faith  was  no  doubt  stimulated  by  the  presence 
of  a  large  number  of  Irish  Roman  Catholics,  who  are 
at  least  as  violent  as  their  opponents. 

The  French  Canadians,  with  just  as  much  fidelity 


war; 


THE  RAILWAY  LINES. 


61 


to  their  faith,  do  not  enter  into  the  violent  polemical, 
political,  and  miscalled  religions  controversies  which 
led  to  such  an  unseemly  result  at  Kingston ;  and  cer- 
tainly, it  is  much  to  be  regretted  that  the  peculiar  in- 
fluence of  American  institutions,  which  checks  any 
attempt  of  religious  parties  to  disturb  the  public  peace 
or  social  relations  for  their  own  purposes  and  for  the 
gratification  of  pride  or  lust  of  power,  cannot  be  ex- 
tended to  the  provinces  and  to  the  British  Possessions, 
where  they  work  such  prodigious  mischief. 

From  Kingston  the  line  winds  along  the  shore  of 
the  great  lake  -  like  river,  studded  with  a  thousand 
islands.  Here,  again,  the  Americans  would  possess 
considerable  advantage  in  case  of  war,  as  their  main 
line  is  far  inland,  but  branch-lines  from  it  lead  to 
Cape  Vincent  and  Ogdensburgh,  at  right-angles  to 
our  line  of  communication.  The  American  water- 
boundary,  I  believe,  passes  outside  a  considerable 
number  of  the  more  important  islands  ;  but  the  power 
which  possesses  naval  supi;emacy  on  Lake  Ontario 
will  probably  find  the  means  of  commanding  the 
Upper  St.  Lawrence,  no  matter  which  belligerent 
establishes  himself  on  the  islands. 

T»3  Canadians  with  whom  I  conversed  in  the 
train  declared  they  were  quite  ready  to  defend  their 
country  in  case  of  invasion,  but  did  not  understand, 
they  said,  being  taken  away  to  distant  points  to  fight 
for  the  homes  of  others.  It  seemed  quite  clear  to 
them  that  the  United  States  would  only  invade 
Canada  to  humiliate  and  weaken  the  mother-country, 
and  that  the  general  defence  of  the  province  ought  to 
devolve  on  the  power  whose  policy  had  led  to  the 
war ;  whilst  the  inhabitants  should  be  ready  to  ^ive 
the  imperial  troops  every  assistance  in  the  localities 
where  they  are  actually  resident. 


62 


CANAD.i. 


CHAPTER  V. 


i-  r 

1 

;i  ■ 

't  ■ ' 


'If 


ill 


II  In 


Arrive  at  Cornwall.  —The  St.  T.awrence.  — Gossip  on  India.  —  Aspect  of 
the  Country.  —  Montreal.  —The  St.  Lawrence  Hall  Hotel.  —  Story  of 
a  Guardsman.  —  Uumside.  —  Dinner.  —  Refuse  a  Banquet.  —  Flapfs.  — 
Climate.  —  Snlon-a-mnnger.  —  (^ontrast  of  Amoricans  and  English. — 
Sleif^hs.  —  The  "Driving  Club." — The  Victoria  Ilridge. —  Unea.sy 
Feeling.  —  Monument  to  Irish  Emigrants.  —  Irish  Character. —  Montreal 
and  New  York. — The  Rink.  —  .Sir  F.  Williams.  —  Intluence  of  the 
Northerners. 

It  was  noon  ere  we  reached  Cornwall,  a  place 
some  seven^'  mijea  from  Montreal,  where  a  rough 
restaurant  a,  13  .  ation  enabled  us  to  make  a  sup- 
plement to  tht  velicj'^'.  cies  of  our  simple  repast.  The 
people  who  poured  in  cind  out  of  the  train  here  were 
fine  rough-looking  fellows,  with  big,  broad,  sallow 
faces  and  large  beards,  wrapped  up  in  furs,  wearing 
great  long  boots,  —  men  of  a  new  type.  Several  of 
them  were  speaking  in  French;  but  the  literature 
which  travelled  along  with  us  was  American,  mostly 
New  York,  in  the  matter  of  periodicals :  it  was  of 
course  English,  and  pirated,  in  the  most  substantial 
forms.  The  frost  still  clung  to  the  outside  of  the 
windows  ;  inside,  the  foliage  and  broad  tracery  of 
leaves,  and  cathedral-aisles,  and  plumes  of  knight 
and  lady,  tumbled  down  in  big  drops,  and  by  degrees 
the  sun  cleared  away  the  crust  on  one  side,  so  that 
we  could  look  out  on  the  flat  expanse  of  snow-covered 
forest. 

On  our  right,  now  and  then  glimpses  could  be 
caught  of  a  pale  blue  ribbon-like  streak  across  the 
dazzling  white  plain.  "  That 's  the  St.  Lawrence 
you  see  there.  Pitty  it  's  friz  up  so  long.  We 
would  n't  envy  the  Yankees  anything  they've  got  to 
show  us  if  we  had  a  port  open  all  the  year,"  quoth  an 
honest  Canadian  beside  me.  For  the  first  time  I 
Began  to  feel  sympathy  for  a  country  that  "  can't  get 


ASPECT  OF  TUE  COUNTRY. 


63 


ont"  for  five  mortal  months,  and  that  breathes 
through  another  man's  nostrils  and  mouth.  A  hor- 
rible semi-suffocated  sort  of  existence.  No  wonder 
the  Canadians  look  longingly  wer  at  that  bit  of  land, 
which  Lord  Ashburton  yielded  to  the  United  States 
and  the  State  of  Maine. 

A n  and  I,  by  way  of  counteracting  the  influ- 
ence of  the  atmosphere  and  external  scenery,  ialked 
of  India.  Some  poor  creatures  half  the  world's  girth 
away,  whom  we  were  speaking  of  at  that  moment, 
would  have  given  a  good  deal  for  some  of  the  despised 
ice  and  snow  around  us,  groaning  no  doubt  under 
that  sun  which  even  in  February  knows  no  coolness 
in  Central  India  in  mid-day.  How  oddly  things  turn 
up  !  I  had  ever  firmly  believed  that  a  young  soldier 
friend  of  mine  had  slain  many  enemies  in  that  great 
rebellion,  and  had,  Achilles-like,  sent  many  so'^'s  of 
sepoys  to  Hades,  and  so  in  that  faith  speaking,  s.  \- 

denly  I  was  interrupted  by  A n.    "  What  -^re  vv>a 

talking  of?  He  kill  so  many  budmashes  at  Nulla- 
NuUah  !  Why,  I  don't  believe  he  ever  fired  a  shot  or 
made  a  cut  at  a  nigger  in  his  life."  Mi/  fierce  little 
friend  had  done  both,  and  many  a  time  and  ft.  And 
so,  as  he  knew,  away  went  a  reputation,  within  thirty 
miles  of  Montreal ;  thermometer  10.^ 

Hereabouts  were  seen  many  snug  homesteads  ris- 
ing up  through  the  snow,  with  farm-houses,  and  out- 
houses —  all  clad  in  the  same  livery.  The  country 
looked  well  cleared  and  settled ;  sleighs  glided  over 
the  surface,  and  were  drawn  up  at  the  stations  to 
carry  passengers  and  luggage.  Anon  we  came  upon 
a  great  frozen  river,  and  crossed  it  by  a  series  of 
arches  too  great  for  a  bridge ;  but  this  was  neverthe- 
less the  Ottawa  itself  rolling  away  under  its  ice 
coat,  as  the  blood  flows  through  an  artery,  to  rush 
unseen  into  the  cold  embrace  of  the  St.  Lawrence. 
These  two  great  bridges  must  be  worth  visiting 
when  they  can  be  seen  in  the  full  exercise  of  their 
functions.  The  river  forms  an  island  here  which  the 
ice  now  continentalizes. 


64 


CANADA. 


'I 

n 

1 1: 


!  . 


About  four  o'clock,  very  much  as  land  looms  up  in 
the  ocean,  we  saw  the  dark  mass  of  Montreal  rising 
up  in  contrast  to  the  whitened  Mountain  at  the  foot 
•of  which  it  lies;  the  masts  of  vessels  frozen  in,  and 
funnels  of  steamers,  mingled  with  steeples  and 
domes ;  and  as  the  sun  struck  the  windows  a  thou- 
sand flashes  of  glowmg  red  darted  back  upon  us. 
Then  the  train  ran  past  a  "  marine  factory,"  what- 
ever that  may  be,  and  a  suburb  of  stone  and  wooden 
houses  intermixed,  and  a  population  of  children 
whose  faces  looked  preternaturally  pale,  perhaps  from 
the  reflection  of  the  snow,  and  of  women  in  pork-pie 
hats  with  tL'ck  veils  over  their  faces,  and  of  men, 
mostly  smoking,  in  great  fur  coats  and  boots  ;  and  at 
last  the  train  reached  the  terminus,  where  a  great 
concourse  of  sleigh-drivers,  who  spoke  as  though 
they  had  that  moment  left  Kingstown  jetty,  Ireland, 
claimed  our  body  and  property.  These  were  promptly 
routed  by  the  staff"  of  the  St.  Lawrence  Hall,  who 
carried  off  our  party  to  an  omnibus  without  wheels, 
which  finally  bore  us  off  to  the  hotel  so  called. 

The  soldiers  about  the  streets  were  all  comfortably 
clad  in  dark  overcoats,  fur  caps  with  flaps  for  the 
ears,  and  long  boots ;  but  the  dress  takes  from  their 
height,  and  does  not  conduce  to  a  smart  soldier-like 
appearance. 

The  streets  through  which  we  passed  were  lined 
with  well-built  lofty  houses.  It  might  scarce  be 
fancy  which  made  me  think  that  Montreal  was  better 
built  than  American  cities  of  the  same  size.  In  the 
great  cold  hall  of  the  hotel  there  was  excessive 
activity :  befurred  officers  of  the  regiments  sent  to 
Canada  during  the  Trent  difficulty,  before  Mr.  Sew- 
ard had  made  up  his  mind  and  persuaded  the  Presi- 
dent to  give  up  the  Southern  envoys,  were  coming 
in,  going  out,  or  were  congregated  in  the  passage. 
Orderlies  went  to  and  fro  with  despatches  and  office 
papers.  In  fact  the  general-in-chief,  Sir  Fenwick 
Williams  of  Kars,  and  staff,  the  comnianding  officer 


of 


W  -'.•' 


TABLE-D'HOTE. 


65 


of  the  Guards,  Lord  G.  Paulet,  and  staff,  were 
quartered  here,  and  carried  on  their  office  business ; 
and  the  Commissary-General,  Power,  and  the  Prin- 
cipal Medical  Officer,  Dr.  Muir,  were  also  lodging  in 
the  hotel,  with  a  host  of  combatant  officers  of  infe- 
rior grade. 

There  was  no  rush  to  the  table-cVholej  after  the 
American  fashion,  but  the  dinner  itself  was  very 
much  in  the  American  style.  I  was  much  amused 
at  the  distress  of  a  Guardsman  who  made  his  ap- 
pearance at  the  doorway  during  dinner,  with  a  letter 
in  his  hand  for  one  of  the  officers.  He  halted  stiffly 
at  the  threshold,  and  stood  staring  at  the  brilliancy 
of  the  splendid  ormolu  ornaments,  and  the  array  of 
lacquered  chandeliers  and  covers.  In  vain  the  wait- 
ers pointed  out  to  him  the  officer  he  sought;  he 
would  not  intrude  on  the  gorgeous  scene,  nor  would 
he  trust  his  missive  to  another  hand.  At  last,  after 
gazing  in  a  desperate  manner  on  space,  and  balanc- 
ing from  one  leg  to  another,  he  took  a  maddening 
resolve,  put  his  hand  to  his  cap,  held  the  other  out 
with  the  letter  in  it  as  his  dumb  apology  and  in  mit- 
igation of  punishment,  and  marching  straight  to  his 
mark,  trampling  crowds  of  waiters  in  his  way,  only 
halted  when  he  came  up  to  the  table  he  sought, 
where,  with  eyeballs  starting,  he  put  the  missive  to 
the  level  of  the  captain's  nose,  saluted,  and  ejacu- 
lated, "  By  order  of  Colonel  Jones,  sir."  —  "  All  right." 
With  a  wheel  round  and  a  salute,  the  perturbed 
warrior  countermarched  and  escaped  into  the  pro- 
saic outward  world.  A  Frenchman  would  have 
come  in  with  the  most  perfect  self-possession,  and 
possibly  with  some  little  grace.  An  American  would 
probably  have  turned  his  chew,  have  addressed  some 
remarks  to  the  waiters  on  his  way,  have  given  the 
captain  a  tap  on  the  back  or  a  nudge  of  the  elbow, 
and  would  rather  have  expected  a  drink.  And 
which  of  the  three,  after  all,  is  to  be  preferred  ? 

I  me;  a  whole  regiment  of  men  I  knew,  and  after 


* 


m 


66 


CANADA. 


*.    . 


«; 


dinner  adjourned  with  some  of  them  to  my  rooms. 
They  all  growled  of  course,  found  fault  with  Canada 
and  abused  the  Government,  and  seemed  to  think  it 
ought  not  to  snow  in  winter. 

I  received  a  most  interesting  letter  from  a  friend 
of  mine  with  the  Burnside  expedition,  which  revealed 
as  large  an  amount  of  bad  management  as  could 
well  be  conceived.  Burnside,  personally,  has  enough 
ingenuity,  but  is  quite  wanting  in  self-reliance,  pres- 
ence of  mind,  and  vigor.  The  expedition  from 
which  so  much  was  expected  did  more  than  might 
have  been  thought  possible  at  one  time  under  the 
circumstances. 

A  telegram  from  Toronto  informed  me  that  it  was 
in  contemplation  to  invite  me  to  a  public  banquet, 
and  desired  me  to  state  my  wishes.  Very  much  as 
I  appreciated  such  an  honor  from  my  countrymen 
and  fellow-subjects,  it  was  inconsistent,  as  I  con- 
ceived, with  my  position,  as  it  certainly  was  with  my 
sense  of  the  merits  attributed  to  me,  to  accept  the 
very  great  compliment  offered  to  me.  It  came  all 
the  more  agreeably  as  it  was  in  such  contrast  to  the 
manner  in  which  I  had  been  received  in  the  United 
States  for  the  last  few  months ;  and  it  touched  me 
very  sensibly,  more  than  ray  friends  at  Toronto  could 
have  imagined. 

A n  came  in  rather  wroth  abovit  a  matter  of 

flags.  He  had  been  to  see  some  Frenchmen,  whether 
real  or  true  Zouaves  of  the  Crimea  I  know  not,  who 
gave  out  on  tremendous  posters  that  they  were  the 
identical  children  of  the  Beni  Zoug  Zoug,  who  had 
acted  before  us  all  in  that  theatre  on  the  Woronzow 
Road  once  so  charming  and  well  filled  ;  and  he  had 
been  seized  with  indignation  because  they,  in  that 
Canadian  city,  under  the  British  flag,  had  dared  to 
perform  under  the  folds  of  the  tricolor,  and  the  Stars 
and  Stripes  of  the  United  States.  I  explained  that 
the  British  flag  was  metaphorically  and  properly 
supposed  to  float  above  both  ;  all  which  much  com- 


ENGLISH  AND  AMERICANS. 


67 


fortcd  him,  and  so  to  bed  —  cold  enough,  in  despite 
of  stoves  and  open  fire.  The  servants  here  are  Irish 
men  and  womrn,  with  a  sprinkling  of  free  negroes. 

Next  day  the  weather  was  not  at  all  warmer.  In 
winter  tinn;  the  cold  is  by  no  means  unbearable  in 
this  Canadian  clime,  when  one  is  well  furred  and 
clad  ;  to  the  poor  it  must  be  very  trying,  for  furs  and 
fuel  are  dear,  and  ( ven  clothing  of  an  ordinary  kind 
is  not  cheap.  The  emigrant,  in  his  rude  log-hut 
open  in  many  chinks,  must  shrink  and  shiver  and 
suH'er  in  the  blast.  What  do  they,  who  follow,  not 
owe  to  the  hardy  explorer  who  has  opened  up  wood 
and  mountain,  and  laid  down  paths  on  the  sea  for 
them  ? 

A  thick  haze  had  now  settled  down  on  all  things, 
a  cold  freezing  rime,  which  clung  and  crept  to  one, 
and  almost  sat  down  on  the  very  hearth.  Descend- 
ing the  stairs,  which  were  in  a  transition  state  and 
in  the  hands  of  carpenters,  to  the  long  salon-d- 
manger^  I  found  the  tables  well  filled  by  guards- 
men, riflemen,  and  members  of  the  stafi',  miLitciry 
and  civil,  who  gave  the  place  the  air  of  a  mess-room 
under  disorderly  circumstances. 

I  had  before  this  seen  many  such  rooms  in  Ameri- 
can hotels  in  cities  filled  with  soldiery,  and  I  am 
bound  to  say  the  difference  between  the  two  sets  of 
men  was  remarkable.  The  noise,  gayety,  and  life  of 
these  grave  English  were  exuberant  when  compared 
to  the  silence  of  American  gatherings  of  the  same 
kind,  which  are,  indeed,  disturbed  by  the  clatter  of 
plates  and  dishes,  and  the  horrible  squeaking  of 
chair-legs  over  the  polished  floors,  but  otherwise  are 
quiet  enough.  Here,  men  laughed  out,  talked  loud, 
shouted  to  the  waiters,  aired  their  lungs  in  occa- 
sional scoldings  and  objurgations,  having  reference 
to  chops  aid  steaky  and  tardy-coming  dishes;  "  old- 
fellowed"  ti.(3ir  friends;  asked  or  told  the  news.  I 
don't  know  that  the  Englishmen  were  better  look- 
ing, taller,  or  in  any  physical  way  had  the  advantage 


iii'l' 


68 


CANADA. 


1^    % 


of  the  men  of  the  continent,  except  in  ruddier  cheeks 
perhaps,  and  in  frames  better  provided  with  cellular 
tissue ;  but  the  distinction  of  style  and  manner  was 
marked. 

The  Americans  usually  came  into  the  salon  singly, 
each  man,  with  a  bundle  of  newspapers  under  his 
arm,  took  a  seat  at  a  vacant  table,  ordered  a  prodig- 
ious repast,  which  he  gobbled  in  haste,  as  though 
he  was  afraid  of  losing  a  train,  and  then  rushed  off 
to  the  bar  or  smoked  in  the  passages,  never  sitting 
for  a  moment  after  his  breakfast.     The  Ensflishmen 


came  in  little  knots  or  groups,  exhibited  no  great 
anxiety  about  newspapers,  ordered  simple  and  sub- 
stantial feasts,  enjoyed  them  at  their  ease,  chattered 
much,  and  were  in  no  particular  hurry  to  leave  the 
table.  The  taciturnity  of  the  American  was  not 
"well-Dred,  nor  was  the  good  humor  of  the  Briton 
vulgar.  It  may  be  said  the  comparison  is  not  just, 
because  the  Americans  were  engaged  in  a  fearful 
war,  which  engrossed  all  their  thoughts ;  whilst  the 
English  officer  was  merely  sent  out  on  a  tour  of 
duty.  But  in  the  bar-room,  restaurants^  or  streets, 
the  American  did  not  maintain  the  same  aspect :  he 
put  on  what  is  called  a  swaggering  air,  and  was  not 
at  all  disposed  to  let  his  shoulder-straps  or  his  sword 
escape  notice. 

The  good  people  at  home  would  have  been  greatly 
surprised  to  hear  the  way  in  which  the  officers  spoke 
of  their  exile  to  the  snows  of  Canada ;  but  though 
they  growled  and  grumbled  when  breakfast  was 
over,  probably  till  dinner-time,  they  would  have 
fought  all  the  better  for  it.  Indeed  there  was  not 
much  else  to  do. 

The  streets  were  piled  with  snow;  and  at  the 
front  of  the  hotel,  sleighs,  driven  by  Irishmen,  such 
as  are  seen  managing  the  Dublin  hacks,  wrapped  up 
in  fur  and  sheepskins,  were  drawn  up  waiting  for 
fares,  to  the  constant  jingle  of  the  bells,  which  en- 
livened the  air.     It  was  too  early  and  too  raw  and 


SLEIGHING  AND  DRIVING. 


69 


cold  for  many  of  the  ladies  of  Montreal  to  trust 
their  complexions  to  the  cruelties  of  the  climate, 
thickly  veiled  though  they  might  be ;  but  now  and 
then  a  sleigh  slid  by  with  a  bright-eyed  freight  half- 
buried  in  fourrures^  and  some  handsome  private 
vehicles  of  this  description  reached  in  their  way  as 
high  a  point  of  richness  and  elegance  as  could  well 
be  conceived.  The  horses  were  rarely  of  correspond- 
ing quality.  The  guardsmen  and  other  soldiers, 
"  red "  and  "  green,"  strode  about  in  cold  defiant 
boots,  and  seemed  to  like  the  town  and  climate 
better  than  their  officers.  Mr.  Blackwell,  the  amia- 
ble and  accomplished  chief  of  the  Grand  Trunk 
Railway,  called  for  me,  and  drove  me  out  to  an  early 
dinner. 

It  was  a  matter  of  some  ceremony  to  set  forth  ;  a 
fur  cap  with  flaps  secured  over  the  ears  and  under 
the  chin,  a  large  fur  cloak,  and  a  pair  of  moccasons 
for  the  feet,  had  to  be  put  on  ;  and  then  we  clomb 
the  sides  of  the  boat-like  sleigh,  and  started  off  at  a 
rapid  pace,  which  produced  a  sea-sick  sensation  — 
at  least  what  I  am  told  is  like  it  —  in  very  rough 
places  where  the  runners  of  the  sleighs  have  cut  into 
the  snow.  On  our  way  we  were  rejoiced  by  the 
sight  of  the  "  Driving  Club  "  going  out  for  an  ex- 
cursion. Sir  Fenwick  Williams  leading.  All  one 
could  sc«,  however,  was  a  certain  looming  up  of  dark 
forms  through  the  drift  gliding  along  to  the  music  of 
the  bells,  which  followed  one  after  the  other,  and  were 
lost  in  the  hazy  yet  glittering  clouds  tossed  up  by  the 
horses'  hoofs  from  the  snow.  In  the  afternoon  the 
rime  passed  off,  and  the  day  became  clearer,  but  no 
warmer. 

At  about  three  o'clock,  we  sleighed  over  by  rough 
roads  to  the  terminus  of  the  railway,  close  to  the 
Victoria  Bridge,  where  a  party  of  the  directors  and 
some  officers  —  Colonel  Mackensie,  Colonel  Weth- 
erall.  Colonels  Ellison  and  Earle  of  the  Guards,  and 
others   recently  arrived  —  were    assembled  to  view 

4» 


V\i  * 


70 


CANADA. 


I  '1 


the  great  work  which  would  stamp  the  impress  of 
English  greatness  on  Canada,  if  her  power  were  to 
be  rooted  out  to-morrow.  The  royal  carriage  —  a 
prettily  decorated  long  open  wagon,  with  the  Prince 
of  Wales's  coat  of  arms,  plume,  and  initials  still 
shining  brightly  —  was  in  readiness;  and  as  cold 
makes  one  active,  or  very  lazy,  as  the  case  may  be, 
we  lost  no  time  in  starting  to  explore  the  bridge, 
which  threw  its  massive  weight  in  easy  stretches 
across  the  vast  frozen  highway  of  the  St  Lawrence  — 
so  light,  so  strong,  so  graceful,  for  all  its  rigid  lines, 
that  1  can  compare  the  impression  of  the  thing  to 
nothing  so  much  as  to  that  of  the  bounds  of  a  tiger. 

The  entrance,  in  the  limestone  rock,  is  grandly 
simple ;  but  ere  we  could  well  admire  its  propor- 
tions the  car  ran  into  the  darkness  of  the  great  tube. 
The  light  admitted  by  the  neatly  designed  windows 
in  the  iron  sides  of  the  aerial  tunnel  was  not  enough 
to  enable  us  to  pierce  through  the  smoke  and  the  fog 
which  clung  to  the  interior.  The  car  proceeded  to 
the  end,  the  thermometer  marking  6,°  Statistics, 
though  I  have  them  all  by  me,  I  am  not  about  to 
give,  as  the  history  of  the  bridge  is  well  known  ;  but 
Mr.  Blackwell  showed  me  a  table  which  indicated 
that  the  monster  suffers  or  rejoices  like  a  li^'ing  thing, 
and  contracts  and  expands  and  swells  out  his  lines 
wondrously,  just  in  proportion  as  the  temperature 
alters. 

From  this  end  of  the  magnificent  bridge  one  could 
see,  nearly  a  hundred  feet  below  him,  the  rugged  sur- 
face of  the  ice,  beneath  which  was  rolling  the  St. 
Lawrence.  It  was  distinguished  from  the  snowy 
expanse  covering  the  land  by  the  bluish  glint  of  the 
ice,  and  by  the  torn  glacier-like  aspect  of  the  course 
of  the  stream,  where  the  frozen  nasses  had  been-con- 
tending  fiercely  with  the  current  cind  with  each  other 
till  the  frost-king  had  clutched  them  and  bound  them 
in  the  midst  of  the  conflict.  You  could  trace  the 
likeness  of  spires,  pinnacles,  castles,  battlements,  and 


BRIDGE  ACROSS  THE  ST.  LAWRENCE. 


71 


alpine  peaks  in  the  wild  confusion  of  those  serried 
heaps,  which  were  tilted  up  and  forced  together ;  but 
the  haze  did  not  permit  us  to  follow  the  course  of  the 
stream  for  any  great  distance.  It  was  too  cold  for 
enthusiastic  enjoyment,  and  we  got  into  the  car  and 
backed  into  the  darkness  till  we  reached  th  j  centre 
of  the  bridge. 

I  confess,  when  it  occurred  to  me  that  great  cold 
makes  iron  brittle,  the  uneasy  i  .eling  I  experienced 
of  suspense,  malg're  moi^  in  passing  over  any  of 
these  great  engineering  triumphs,  was  aggravated  so 
far  that  it  required  a  good  deal  of  faith  in  the  charm- 
ing diagram  of  the  effects  of  temperature  on  the 
bridge,  to  make  me  quite  at  ease.  I  suppose  it  is 
only  an  engineer  who  can  be  quite  above  the  thought, 
"  Suppose,  after  all,  the  bridge  does  go  at  this  par- 
ticrJar  moment."  And  then  the  iron  did  crackle  and 
brAUg  and  shriek  most  unmistakably  and  demonstra- 
tively. 

At  the  centre  of  the  bridge  we  got  out,  and  had 
another  look  at  the  river,  some  sixty  feet  below.  Re- 
marked the  thinness  of  the  iron ;  was  informed  it  was 
on  purpose,  every  plate  being  made  specially  for  its 
place.  Examined  carefully  a  bolt  driven  in  by  the 
Prince  of  Wales ;  rather  liked  its  appearance,  as  it 
was  well  hammered  and  seemed  sound.  Then  the 
car  received  us,  and  we  were  drawn  through  this 
ghastly  cold  gallery  once  more,  and  were  divulged 
at  the  railway  station  among  a  crowd  of  furred  citi- 
zens. 

Thence  through  the  city  over  the  rough  road  in 
our  carrioles  and  sleighs.  On  our  way  I  remarked 
a  stone  obelisk  standing  out  of  the  snow  close  to  the 
railway,  in  a  low  patch  of  ground  near  the  river. 
"  That,"  said  my  companion,  "  is  a  memorial  to  six 
thousand  Irish  emigrants  who  died  here  of  ship- 
fever."  What  a  history  in  those  few  words  —  a  tale 
of  sorrow  and  woe  unutterable  —  I  hope,  not  of  neg- 
lect  and   indifference  tool     The  railway  engineers 


if 


iSiliiis 


ffif,!! 


72 


CANADA. 


have  thoughtfully  erected  the  monument  of  the  name- 
less dead,  and  so  far  rescued  their  fate  from  obiivioii. 

I  am  not  so  philosophic  as  to  witness  the  tlejrc'a!- 
ing  emigia'ions  which  leave  the  homes  of  a  cocnty 
waste,  and  hli  the  lands  of  future  kingdoms  and  no  - 
uible  rivals  with  an  alienated  population,  without 
regret.  Above  all,  I  pity  the  fate  of  the  poor  pio- 
neers whose  hapless  lot  it  is  to  labor  unthanked  and 
de^spised,  to  build  up  the  stranger's  cities,  to  clear 
his  forests,  and  make  his  roads,  to  found  his  power 
and  greatness,  and  then  to  sit  at  his  gate  waiting  for 
alms  when  the  hour  cometh  that  no  man  can  work. 

It  is  most  strange,  indeed,  and  yet  too  true,  that 
a  race  which,  above  all  others,  ought  to  seek  the 
material  advantages  and  the  substantial  results  of 
hard  work,  should  be  the  most  readily  led  astray  by 
windy  agitators  and  by  political  disputes  and  pas- 
sions. Here  we  are  driving  through  the  streets  of 
Montreal,  which  owes  much  of  its  existence  to  Irish 
labor,  and  the  laborer  lives  in  filth  and  degradation, 
in  the  back  slums  of  the  city,  intensely  intereste»l 
in  elections  and  clerical  discussions,  little  bette? 
cared  for  or  regarded  than  the  dogs  thereof  till  his 
vote  is  required. 

The  city  is  now  in  its  winter  mantle,  but  it  shows 
fair  proportions.  The  Roman  Catholic  chapels  arfi 
well  placed  and  handsome,  and  excel  in  sijic  and 
numbers  the  Protestant  churclijs.  The  Qi  irter- 
master-General,  who  has  had  <<  hire  one  of  the 
Catholic  colleges  to  serve  as  bi  .^ks  for  the  troops, 
says  the  priests  are  remarkably  keen  practitioners  at 
a  bargain  :  good  Churchmen  always  were  in  old 
times.  The  metal-'^overed  domes  and  spires,  the 
roofs  of  houses  sheeted  with  tin,  now  began  to  glis- 
ten  in  the  sun,  and  gave  a  bright  look  to  the  place 
which  did  not  make  it  all  the  warmer. 

Montreal  is  a  much  finer-looking  place  than  I  had 
expected.  The  irregularity  of  the  streets  pleased  the 
eye,  wearied  by  straight  lines  and  regular  frontage 


mm 

fi. ; 


THE  RINK. 


78 


The  houses  of  stone  i 'Hh  double  windows  have  plain 
Vnrr  fronts,  and  do  not  present  so  good  an  appear- 
liiijc  ud  the  best  of  New  York  ;  but  the  character  of 
the  residences  as  a  whole  is  better,  antl  tue  effti;t  of 
the  city,  to  compare  small  things  with  greai,  very 
much  more  interesting  and  picturesque. 

Our  destination  in  this  drive  was  the  Rink,  or 
covered  skating-ground,  which  is  the  fashionable 
sporting  resort  of  Montrealese  in  the  winter  time. 
The  crowd  of  sleighs  and  sleigh-drivers  around  the 
doors  of  a  building  which  looked  like  a  Methodist 
chapel,  announced  that  the  skaters  were  already  as- 
sembled. 

Anything  but  a  Method isi^looking  place  inside. 
The  room,  which  was  like  a  large  public  bath-room, 
was  crowded  with  women,  young  and  old,  skating 
or  preparing  to  skate,  for  husbands,  and  spread  in 
maiden  rays  over  the  glistening  area  of  ict,  gliding, 
swooping,  revolving  on  legs  of  every  description, 
which  were  generally  revealed  to  mortal  gaze  in  pro- 
portion to  their  goodness,  and  therefore  were  dis- 
played on  a  principle  so  far  unobjectionable.  The 
room  was  lighted  with  gas,  which,  with  the  heat 
of  the  crowd,  made  the  ice  rather  sloppy  ;  bat  the 
skating  of  the  nativcf^.  was  admirable,  and  some 
hardened  campaigners  of  foreign  origin  had  by  long 
practice  learned  to  emulate  the  graces  and  skill  of 
the  inhabitants. 

It  was  a  mighty  pretty  sight.  The  spectators  sat 
or  stood  on  the  raised  ledge  round  the  ice  parallelo- 
gram like  swallows  on  a  clift',  and  now  and  then 
dashed  off  and  swept  away  as  if  on  the  wing  over 
the  surface,  in  couples  or  alone,  executing  quadrilles, 
mazurkas,  waltzes,  and  tours  de  force,  that  made  one 
conceive  the  laws  of  gravitation  must  be  suspended 
in  the  Rink,  and  that  the  ouside  edge  is  the  most 
stable  place  for  the  human  foot  and  figure.  Mercy, 
what  a  crash  !  There  is  a  fine  stout  young  lady 
sprawling  on  the  ice,  tripped  up  by  Dontatop  of  the 


til  1 


it 


74 


CANADA. 


■',  *  j 


i  i ! 

lit 


Guards,  who  is  making;  a  iirst  attempt,  to  the  detri- 
ment of  the  lieges,  llow  H flighted  the  ladies  are, 
and  pretend  not  to  be  ;  for  the  fallen  fair  one  is  the 
best  contortionist  in  the  place!  she  is  on  her  legs 
again  —  has  shaken  the  powdered  ice  and  splash 
off  her  dandy  jacket  and  neat  little  breeches,  —  yes, 
they  wear  breeches,  a  good  many  of  them, —  and  is 
zigzagging  about  once  more  like  a  pretty  noiseless 
firework. 

The  little  children  skate,  so  do  most  portentous 
mammas.  A  line  of  recently  arrived  officers,  in  fur 
caps  and  coats,  look  on,  all  sucking  their  canes,  and 
resolving  to  take  private  lessons  early  in  the  morning. 
Some,  in  the  goose-step  stage,  perform  awful  first 
lines  with  their  skates,  and  leave  me  in  doubt  as  to 
whether  they  will  split  up  or  dash  out  their  brains. 
The  young  ladies  pretend  to  avoid  them  with  una- 
nimity, but  sail  round  them  still  as  seagulls  sweep  by 
a  drowning  man.  And  if  a  fellow  should  fall  —  and 
be  saved  by  a  lady  ?  Well !  It  may  end  in  an  in- 
troduction, and  a  condition  of  "  muffinage."  And 
what  that  is  we  must  tell  you  hereafter.  I  can't  an- 
swer your  question  as  to  whether  the  women  were 
pretty ;  eyes  dark  generally,  and  good  complexions. 
The  Rink  is  a  bad  place  to  judge  of  that  point. 

I  paid  my  respects  to  Sir  Fenwick  Williams,  who 
has  his  quarters  in  the  hotel.  The  general  has  plenty 
of  work  to  do  at  present,  and  did  not  seem  quite  so 
well  as  when  I  saw  him  afier  his  return  from  Kars. 
There  is  a  general  impression  that  the  Federals  will 
keep  their  armies  in  good  humor  at  the  end  of  the 
war,  by  annexing  Canada,  if  they  can.  No  one  asks 
what  thev  will  do  with  them  when  that  work  has 
been  accomplished.  Dined  at  the  house  of  the  Hon. 
John  Rose,  riiember  for  Montreal,  and  formerly  a 
member  of  the  Government.  He  had,  after  his  hos- 
pitable wont,  sorae  young  officers  to  dine  also ;  and, 
after  an  agjeeabi<^  evening,  I  slid  home  in  a  bitter 
snow-drift  to  the  hotel,  and  so  to  bed.  Here  is  a 
page  from  my  diary. 


II 


INFLUENCE    OF    THE  NORTHERNERS. 


70 


February  6.  —  The  severe  cold  makes  the  head 
ache,  and  stupefies  me  ultra  niodum.  I  wrote  to  Mr. 
Hope,  stating  my  reasons  for  declining  the  great  com- 
pliment of  a  public  dinner  intended  for  me  at  To- 
ronto. As  I  move  about  here,  I  feel  that  society  is 
much  under  the  influence  of  the  unrulv  fellow,  our 
next  neighbor.  There  is  no  great  love  lor  him  ;  but 
his  prodigious  kicks  and  blows,  his  threats,  his  bad 
language,  his  size  and  insolence,  frighten  them  up 
here.  There  is  great  anxiety  for  the  American  news ; 
and  I  am  bound  to  say,  the  Northern  Americans 
must  have  done  something  to  make  the  Canadians 
dislike  them,  as  there  is  little  love  for  them  even 
where  little  is  felt  for  England.  I  saw  a  great  many 
of  the  principal  personages  to-day.  Called  on  the 
Bishop,  whose  sweet,  benevolent  face  is  an  index  of 
his  mind.  He  spoke  in  high  terms  of  his  Roman 
Catholic  coadjutor;  indeed,  it  would  be  diflicult  to 
quarrdl  with  Dr.  Mountain.  In  education,  they  work 
harmoniously  together.  Mr.  D'Arcy  M'Ghie  called 
on  me.  He  is  now  a  member  of  the  Canadian  Par- 
liament, and  is  giving  his  support  to  the  authority  of 
the  British  Crown.  His  loyalty  is,  of  course,  stig- 
matized by  some  as  treason  to  what  they  call  the 
cause  of  Ireland  ;  but  I  believe  the  atmosphere  of 
Canada  is  found  to  have  a  vapor-dispelling,  febrifuge 
character  about  it  which  works  well  on  the  mind  of 
the  Irish  immigrant.  A  most  entertaining,  witty, 
well-informed  barrister,  also  an  Irishman,  paid  me  a 
visit,  and  gave  some  admirable  sketches  of  Canadian 
society,  of  the  bar,  of  the  working  of  parties,  as  well 
as  his  own  ideas  on  all  points,  in  a  peculiarly  terse 
and  pleasant  way. 


76 


CANADA. 


CHAPTER  VI. 


1  >    ■ 


if 


Visit  the  "  Lions  "  of  Montreal.  —  The  47th  Repiment.  —  The  City  open  to 
Attack.  —  Quays,  Public  Huildings.  —  French  Colonization.  —  Kise  of 
Montreal.  —  Stone.  —  A  French- Anglicized  City.  —  Loyalty  of  Canadi- 
ans. —  Arrival  of  Troops.  —  Facings.  —  British  and  Ainericnn  Army  com- 
pared. —  Experience  needed  by  Latter.  —  Slavery. 

I  REMAINED  Several  days  at  Montreal,  examining 
the  lions,  and  making  the  most  of  my  brief  stay. 
Here  are  living  a  knot  of  Southern  families  in  a  sort 
of  American  Siberia,  at  a  very  comfortable  hotel, 
who  nurse  their  wrath  against  the  Yankee  to  keep  it 
warm  and  sustain  each  other's  spirits.  They  form  a 
nucleus  for  sympathizing  society  to  cluster  around, 
and  so  germinate  into  innocent  little  balls,  sleigh- 
parties,  and  occasional  matrimonial  engagements. 

"  Waiting  for  his  regiment,"  too,  was  old  General 
Bell,  —  the  veteran  who  saw  his  first  shot  fired  in  the 
Peninsula,  and  his  last,  forty-four  years  afterwards, 
before  Sebastopol.  There  were  parades  of  the  47th 
Regiment  and  inspection-drills  on  the  St.  Lawrence 
in  snow-shoes  ;  and  Penn  marched  out  his  Arm- 
strongs in  beautiful  order,  on  their  sleighs,  for  all  to 
see. 

The  position  of  this  fine  city  leaves  it  open  to  at- 
tack from  the  American  frontier,  which  is  so  near 
that  the  blue  tops  of  the  mountain  ridges  of  the 
bordering  States  can  be  seen  on  a  clean  day.  The 
rail  from  the  centre  of  New  York  runs  direct  to 
it,  through  the  arsenal  and  fort  of  Rouse's  Point  on 
Lake  Champlain  ;  and  there  are  two  other  lines  con- 
verging on  it,  so  that  an  enormous  force  could  be 
swiftly  sent  against  it.  The  frontier  is  here  a  mere 
line  on  the  map,  so  drawn  as  to  leave  the  head  of 
Lake  Champlain  and  Rouse's  Point  in  the  hands  of 
the  Americans.     Its  importance,  its  beauty,  and  the 


MONTREAL. 


77 


feeling  of  the  inhabitants  would  render  it  tempting 
to  the  Northern  armies  ;  and  the  fierce,  relentless,  and 
destructive  spirit  which  has  been  evoited  in  their 
civil  war,  might  lead  them  to  destroy  all  that  is 
valuable  and  handsome  in  a  city  which  stands  in 
strong  contrast  to  the  hideousness  of  American  towns, 
if  they  were,  as  of  old,  oblif^ed  to  abandon  the  city. 

The  quays  of  Montreal  are  of  imperial  beauty,  and 
would  reflect  credit  on  any  city  in  Europe.  TIjey 
present  a  continuous  line  of  cut-stone  from  the  La- 
chine  Canal  along  the  river-front  before  the  city, 
leaving  a  fine  broad  mall  or  esplanade  between  the 
water's  edge  and  the  houses.  The  public  buildings, 
built  of  solid  stone,  in  which  a  handsome  limestone 
predominates,  are  of  very  great  merit.  Churches, 
court-houses,  banks,  markets,  hospitals,  college  s,  all 
are  worthy  of  a  capital ;  and  these  would  present  a 
very  different  appearance  to  an  invader  from  that 
which  was  offered  by  the  poverty-stricken  and  insig- 
nificant Montreal  of  1812. 

Tiiere  are  a  few  guns  mounted  on  a  work  on  the 
left  bank  of  the  river  above  the  city,  but  for  military 
purposes  the  place  may  be  considered  perfectly  open. 
There  are  more  than  90,000  people  in  the  city,  but  it 
is  said  not  to  be  a  fighting  population  ;  and  there  are 
many  foreigners  and  emigrants  of  an  inferior  class, 
who  taint  the  place  with  rowdyism.  The  British 
element  was  active  in  volunteering  when  I  was  there, 
and  figures  in  uniform  were  frequently  to  bo  seen  in 
the  streets;  but  the  time  was  unfavorable  for  any 
public  displays,  and  1  never  saw  any  of  the  volunteers 
working  en  masse. 

Here,  as  elsewhere,  the  jealousies  of  claimants  for 
command,  local  and  personal  rivalry,  have  impeded 
the  good  work  ;  but  such  obstacles  would  vanish  in 
the  |)resence  of  danger.  National  feeling  has  tended 
to  make  the  organization  of  corps  too  expensive,  and 
the  question  of  drafting  for  the  militia  has  also  inter- 
fered with  the  full  development  of  the  movemerit. 


'ii' 


78 


CANADA. 


I- 

v'l. 


It  would  be  unjustifiable  to  assert  that  the  enter- 
prise of  the  French  people,  and  their  capacity  for 
colonization,  have  t^^^n  diminished  by  republican  in- 
stitutions ;  but,  unquest'onably,  the  great  convulsions 
which  have  agitated  society  since  the  fall  of  the  mon- 
archy appear  to  have  concentrated  the  energies  of  the 
race  upon  objects  nearer  home,  even  though  they 
have  annexed  Algeria,  established  a  protectorate  over 
Tahiti,  and  are  engaged  in  war  with  the  Cambodians. 
Where  is  the  enterprise  which,  more  thart  '^00  years 
ago,  originated  a  company  of  merchant  adventurers, 
who  pushed  out  settlements  into  this  wilderness,  and 
founded  factories  among  the  Iroquois  and  the  Mo- 
hawks ?  In  those  days,  indeed,  the  zeal  of  Jesuits 
and  other  Roman  Catholic  missionaries  preceded  the 
march  and  directed  the  course  of  commerce. 

Montreal  owes  its  existence  to  a  certain  Monsieur 
Maisonneuve,  the  factor  of  the  Commercial  Associa- 
tion in  1642.  More  than  100  years  afterwards  it  was 
nearly  destroyed  by  fire ;  and  ten  years  after  the  con- 
flagration the  troops  of  the  insurgent  colonies  took 
possession  of  the  town,  which  was  a  favorite  object 
of  attack  in  the  two  American  wars. 

In  spite  of  many  misfortunes  —  fire,  hostile  occu- 
pation, insurrection,  riot — Montreal  has  flourished 
exceedingly,  and  the  energy  of  its  population  has 
been  displayed  in  securing  for  it  a  principal  share  of 
the  trade  between  England  and  the  Upper  Provinces. 
Its  railway  communications  have  been  pushed  with 
great  energy,  and  the  canals  and  quays  are  in  im- 
perial grandeur ;  but  still,  in  case  of  war  with  the 
States,  the  only  outlet  in  winter  (by  rail  to  Portland) 
would  be  effectually  blocked  up. 

The  city  contains  nearly  100,000  inhabitants,  of 
whom  60,000  are  Roman  Catholics — representing  a 
great  variety  of  nationalities,  with  a  predominance, 
however,  of  French  Canadians  and  Irish.  An  abun- 
dance of  fine  stone,  found  near  the  town,  has  enabled 
the  inhabitants  to  build  substantial  houses  in  lieu  of 


PUBLIC  INSTITUTIONS. 


79 


the  wooden  edifices  from  which  they  were  driven  by 
two  great  conflagrations;  but  the  material  is  of  a 
dull  cold  gray  color,  and  the  streets,  seen  in  winter- 
time, have  in  consequence  a  gloomy  and  melancholy 
aspect.  Many  of  the  cupolas  and  spires  and  the 
roofs  of  many  of  the  houses  are  covered  with  metal 
plates,  which  shine  out  in  the  sun,  and  give  the  city 
a  bright  appearance  from  a  distance,  which  is  not 
altogether  maintained  on  a  nearer  approach. 

The  mental  activity  of  the  population,  displayed  in 
a  large  crop  of  newspapers,  doubtless  indicates  a 
close  intimacy  with  the  United  States  ;  but  Montreal 
is,  after  all,  French  Anglicized,  and,  notwithstanding 
the  disaffection  of  which  it  gave  symptoms  in  the 
rebellion,  the  sympathies  of  its  people  are  very  far  re- 
moved from  the  bald  republicanism  of  the  New  Eng- 
land States. 

Nuns  and  priests  seem,  to  a  Protestant  eye,  to  be 
rather  too  numerous  for  the  good  of  the  people ;  but 
having  seen  the  schools  of  the  Christian  Brothers, 
and  having  heard  the  testimony  of  all  classes  to  the 
services  rendered  to  morals  and  religion,  to  charity 
and  to  Christianity,  by  the  various  religious  orders,  I 
am  forced  to  believe  that  Montreal  is  much  indebted 
to  their  labors. 

The  number  of  hospitals,  schools,  scientific  institu- 
tions —  the  libraries,  reading-rooms,  universities,  are 
remarkable.  They  are  worthy  of  a  highly  civilized, 
wealthy,  and  prosperous  community  ;  but,  in  fact,  the 
economy  with  which  they  are  managed  is  not  one  of 
the  least  remarkable  features  about  the  Montreal  in- 
stitutions. Party  animosities  have  now  been  soft- 
ened ;  but  there  is  no  doubt  of  the  satisfaction  with 
which  the  Liberal  Canadian  points  to  the  fact  that 
those  who  were  imprisoned  and  persecuted  by  the 
Government,  for  rebellious  a.  ts  or  tendencies,  have 
since  been  called  to  office,  and  have  served  the  Crown 
in  high  official  positions. 

The  people  of  Canada  are  learning  a  useful  piece 


I 


■,% 


.v^,  w^ 


*^>, 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  {MT-3) 


1.0 


I.I 


1.25 


a;  128     |2.5 


2.0 


IIIIB 

i.4    III  1.6 


■^ 


fliotographic 

Sciences 
Corporation 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  M580 

(716)  872-4503 


m 


\ 


iV 


^ 


80 


CANADA. 


of  knowledge  or  two  from  what  is  passing  so  close  to 
them.  The  annexation  party  are  heard  no  more :  in 
their  room  stand  the  people  of  Canada,  loyal  to  the 
Crown  and  to  the  connection,  prepared  to  defend 
their  homes  and  altars  against  invasion.  So  far  as 
I  have  gone,  in  no  place  in  the  Queen's  dominions 
is  there  greater  attachment  to  her  person  and  au- 
thority. 

The  Canadians  see  with  sorrow  the  ills  which 
afflict  their  neighbors,  in  spite  of  all  the  ill-advised 
menaces  of  the  Northern  Press ;  but  they  felt  natur- 
ally indignant  at  being  spoken  of  as  if  they  were  a 
mere  chattel,  which  could  be  taken  away  by  the 
United  States  from  Great  Britain  in  order  to  spite 
her.  With  such  turbulent  and  dangerous  elements 
at  work  close  to  them,  they  will  no  doubt  eagerly 
assist  the  authorities  in  their  efforts  to  secure  their 
borders  and  their  country,  by  putting  the  militia  on 
a  proper  footing.  The  patriotism  of  the  Legislature 
can  be  relied  on  to  do  this.  England  will  do  the 
rest,  and  give  her  best  blood,  if  need  be,  to  aid  this 
magnificent  dependency  of  the  same  Crown  as  that 
to  which  she  is  herself  subject,  in  maintaining  the 
present  situation. 

It  was  most  agreeable  to  hear  praise  instead  of 
grumbling,  and  to  know  that  amid  no  ordinary  diffi- 
culties the  troops  were  landed  and  conveyed  across 
the  snows  of  Nova  Scotia  and  New  Brunswick  in 
the  month  of  January  without  casualty  or  mishap 
worth  mentioning,  and  that  the  arrangements  were 
worthy  of  every  commendation.  It  made  us  feel 
proud  of  our  army  when  we  saw  the  cheerfulness, 
soldierly  look,  cleanliness,  and  deportment  of  the 
men,  and  learnt  that  they  had  conducted  themselves 
in  the  most  exemplary  manner,  though  exposed  to 
great  temptation  by  the  hospitality  of  the  New- 
Brunswickers  and  the  cheapness  of  intoxicating 
liquors. 

And  what  wonderful  vicissitudes  of  service  those 


OLD  <:;rimean  friends. 


81 


close  to 
ore :  in 
I  to  the 
defend 
0  ffir  as 
ninions 
ind  au- 

which 
idvised 
;  natur- 
were  a 
by  the 
o  spite 
ements 
eagerly 
e  their 
itia  on 
slature 
do  the 
id  this 
IS  that 
ng  the 

;ad  of 
y  diffi- 

across 
rick  in 
nishap 
s  were 
IS  feel 
uiness, 
of  the 
iselves 
sed  to 

New- 
eating 

those 


officers  and  men  have  seen !  Here  is  a  face  yet 
burned  by  the  suns  of  India,  encircled  in  fur  cap,  and 
peering  into  the  railway  carriage  to  welcome  some 
well-known  friend  from  China  or  Aldershot.  There 
marches  a  sturdy  Guardsman,  one  of  the  few  who 
remain  of  the  men  of  Alma  and  Inkerman,  with  that 
small  ladder  of  glory  on  his  breast.  Here  is  one  of 
the  old  Riflemen,  —  alas,  most  gracious  Queen  !  they 
feel  proud  in  sadness  of  their  name  now,  —  one  of 
"the  Prince  Consort's  Own  Rifle  Brigade,"  who 
heard,  that  bright  evening  when  our  good  ship  was 
gliding  through  the  blue  waters  of  the  Dardanelles, 
the  rich  chorus  of  those  manly  voices,  most  of  which 
are  silenced  forever,  — 

"  Soldiers,  mci'rily  march  away  ! 
Soldier  s  jjlory  lives  in  story, 
His  laurels  are  green  when  his  locks  are  gray, 
Then  hurrah  for  the  life  of  a  soldier  1  " 

Firm  and  clean  and  straight  as  of  yore,  under  all  his 
load  of  great-coat,  furs,  and  boots,  struts,  the  soldier 
of  the  47th,  mindful  of  De  Lacy  Evans,  "  little  Inker- 
man,"  and  of  the  greater  in  which  it  was  eclipsed. 
Will  he  be  as  trim  and  neat,  I  wonder,  if  they  take 
away  his  white  facings  ?  Of  the  old  "  fours  "  —  the 
second  brigade  of  the  division  which  with  the  light 
divided  the  "general"  fighting  —  the  41st  and  47th, 
though  perhaps  no  better,  always  looked  better  than 
the  49th,  because  of  their  facings. 

The  influence  of  facings,  indeed,  goes  much  fur- 
ther than  that  in  general  society.  The  hotel  in  which 
I  live  (a  very  attentive  host  is  doing  his  best  to  com- 
plete the  resemblance  by  extensive  dilapidations)  is 
as  like  a  barracks  as  can  be.  The  "  St.  Lawrence 
Hall "  is  in  a  military  occupation.  The  obstacles  in 
way  of  "  alterations  "  are  bestridden  by  Guardsmen, 
Riflemen,  and  Engineers,  on  their  way  to  breakfast 
and  dinner,  as  if  they  were  getting  through  breaches. 
In  the  hall  abundance  of  soldiers,  anxious  orderlies 
with  the  quaint  quartos  full  of  orders,  and  military 


82 


CANADA. 


:;r 


B.^ 


idlers  smoking  as  much  as  you  like,  but,  I  am  glad 
to  say,  not  chewing — nor,  as  a  Ne\\j  York  paper 
calls  the  Republican  Senators,  "  tobacco-expectorant." 
To  appreciate  this  boon  properly,  pray  be  prepared 
to  limit  the  suffrage  immensely.  In  the  passages 
more  orderlies  and  soldier-servants,  who  now  and 
then  do  a  little  of  what  is  called  flirting  with  the 
passing  demoiselles  de  service;  tubs  outside  in  the 
passage  ;  doors  of  rooms  open  d  la  caserne ;  military 
chests  and  charts  on  the  table. 

It  would  have  given  those  who  admit  that  war  is 
necessary  sometimes,  as  the  sole  means  of  redressing 
national  grievances,  considerable  satisfaction  to  have 
seen  the  difference  presented  by  the  regular  troops  of 
Great  Britain  in  Canada  and  the  vast  masses  of  vol- 
unteers assembled  on  the  Potomac  by  the  United 
States.  It  is  not  that  the  British  are  one  whit  finer 
men :  taking  even  the  Guards,  there  are  some  few 
regiments  there  which  in  height  and  every  constit- 
uent of  physique,  except  gross  weight,  cannot  be 
excelled. 

As  a  whole,  perhaps,  the  average  of  intelligence, 
taken  there  to  mean  reading  and  writing,  may  be 
higher  among  the  United  States  volunteers  than 
among  the  British  regulars; — not  much,  however. 
The  Sanitary  Commission  of  New  York,  a  very 
patriotic  and  thoroughly  American  body,  did  not 
attempt  to  claim  more  than  three  fifths  of  the  United 
States  armies  as  of  American  birth.  The  immediate 
descendants  of  Irish  and  German  parents  are  thus 
included  among  native-born  Americans,  though  they 
are  in  all  respects  except  birth  Irish  and  Germans 
still.  Very  probably  they  have  not  partaken  to  the 
full,  or  to  any  great  extent,  of  the  advantages  of  pub- 
lic education. 

But,  taking  the  statement  of  the  Commissioners, 
—  which,  by  the  bye,  is  a  very  serious  reflection  on 
the  patriotism  of  the  Northern  populations,  —  it  may 
be  doubted  whether  in  reading,  writing,  and  arithme- 


ing 


ARJIY  EDUCATION  AND  DISCIPLINE. 


83 


im  glad 
t  paper 
torant." 
irepared 
assagea 
3W  and 
'ith  the 
in  the 
nailitary 

}  war  is 
Iressing 
to  have 
3ops  of 
of  vol- 
United 
lit  finer 
me  few 
constit- 
inot  be 

ligence, 
nay  be 
rs  than 
owever. 

a  very 
lid  not 
United 
nediate 
re  thus 
^h  they 
ermans 

to  the 
of  pub- 

sioners, 

bion  on 

it  may 

rithme- 


tic  there  is  any  great  superiority  on  the  part  of  the 
United  States  troops  over  the  British.  I  admit  that 
in  some  regiments  of  the  New  England  States  there 
is  a  higher  average  of  such  knowledge  as  may  en- 
able a  man  to  argue  on  the  orders  of  his  officers, 
and  of  such  intelligence  as  may  induce  him  to  be- 
lieve he  is  competent  to  criticize  the  conduct  of  a 
campaign. 

There  is  an  immense  amount  of  newspaper  read- 
ing and  letter- writing,  the  former  taste  predominat- 
ing ;  but  our  own  mail-bags  are  ample  enough  to 
satisfy  any  one  that  the  same  preponderance  which 
is  maintained  by  London  over  New  York  in  corre- 
spondence is  to  be  found  in  the  English  army  over 
the  American.  Many  Irish  and  Germans  here  have 
no  inducements  to  write  letters,  but  there  are  few 
who  are  unable  to  read  their  newspapers. 

What  is  it,  then,  one  may  reasonably  ask,  which 
would  satisfy  the  grumbler,  who  finds  fault  with  the 
expenditure  of  standing  armies,  that  he  has  got  value 
for  his  money  when  he  contrasts  the  British  troops 
here  with  the  battalions  on  the  Potomac  ?  It  is  the 
erficiency  produced  by  obedience,  which  is  the  very 
life  of  discipline  :  the  latter  is  ob^d'.ence  incorporated, 
and,  in  motion  or  at  rest,  acting  by  fixed  rules,  with 
something  approaching  to  certainty  in  its  results. 

The  small  army  in  Canada  could  be  massed  to- 
gether, with  its  artillery  and  transport,  in  a  very  short 
time,  and  directed  with  precision  to  any  one  point, 
though  it  is  a  series  of  detachments  on  garrison  duty 
rather  than  a  corps  d'armee,  and  it  has  neither  cav- 
alry nor  baggage  animals.  With  all  the  liberal  (if 
not  occasionally  extravagant)  outlay,  and  the  cost 
of  transporting  it,  the  force  in  a  few  weeks  would  be 
far  less  expensive  than  an  American  corps  of  the 
same  strength  ;  and  it  is  no  disparagement  to  the 
latter  to  say  they  would  be  less  efficient  than  the 
British.  I  do  not  speak  of  actual  fighting ;  for  our 
battle-fields  in  Canada  tell  how  desperate  may  be  the 


I*. 


84 


CANADA. 


Ji^ 


H;K 


encoun^^^ers  between  the  armies.  Our  force  would 
be  under  the  orders  of  experienced  officers.  The 
staff  would  consist  of  men  who  have  seen  service  in 
the  Russian  war,  in  Asia,  in  India,  and  in  China, 
and  who  have  witnessed  the  operations  of  great 
European  armies.  The  United  States  is  laboriously 
seeking  to  acquire  experience,  at  a  cost  which  may- 
be ruinous  to  its  national  finances,  and  a  delay  which 
may  be  fatal  to  its  cause;  but  it  cannot  galvanize 
the  inert  mass  with  the  fire  of  military  elliciency, 
though  it  burns,  we  are  told,  with  hidden  volcanic 
energies,  and  is  pregnant  with  patriotic  life.  The 
use  of  an  army  in  war  is  to  fight,  to  be  able  to  move 
to  and  after  its  enemy,  to  beat  and  to  pursue  him. 

It  ip  not  greatly  to  be  wondered  at  if  the  work, 
which  Great  Britain  has  only  partially  accomplished, 
notwithstanding  the  greatness  of  its  progress,  should 
be  only  begun  in  the  United  States.  The  aptitude 
of  a  large  mass  of  the  inhabitants  for  arms,  whether 
they  be  foreign  or  native-born,  is  marred  by  many 
things.  There  is  the  principle  of  equality  intruding 
itself  in  military  duty,  confounding  civil  rights  with 
the  relations  between  superior  and  inferior  —  be- 
tween officer  and  rank-and-file.  There  is  the  diffi- 
culty of  getting^men  to  follow  officers  who  have  no 
special  fitness  for  their  post.*  A  soldier  may  be  made 
in  a  year ;  a  company  officer  cannot  be  made  in 
three  years.  There  are  many  officers  in  the  Ameri- 
can army  of  great  theoretical  and  some  practical 
knowledge ;  there  are  many  in  the  British  army  lazy 
and  indifferent ;  —  but  no  one  would  think  for  a  mo- 
ment of  comparing  the  acquirements,  in  a  military 
sense,  of  the  officers  of  the  two  nations. 

In  the  Crimean  war,  when  our  army  was  enlarged 
at  a  time  that  severe  losses  had  much  diminished  the 
number  of  officers,  we  saw  that  our  standard  was 
considerably  lowered  by  the  precipitate  infusion  of 
new  men.  No  wonder,  then,  that  the  United  States 
had  and  has  great  difficulty  in  procuring  officers  of 


TRAINING  OF   OFFICERS. 


85 


the  least  value  for  a  levy  of  more  than  half  a  million 
of  volunteers. 

But  the  system  itself  is  a  most  formidable  barrier 
to  success.  Under  no  circumstances  can  it  reach  a 
moderate  degree  of  efficiency,  unless  the  test  of  sub- 
sequent examinntion  be  rigidly  enforced.  There  is 
no  superiority  of  rank,  of  military  knowledge,  of  per- 
sonal character,  of  social  position,  to  create  an  emu- 
lation in  the  mind  of  the  private  to  be  the  obedient 
but  daring  equal  of  the  officer  in  the  time  of  danger. 
To  such  general  remarks  there  are  many  and  brilliant 
exceptions. 

In  the  course  of  time,  the  personal  qualities  and 
the  reputation  for  bravery  and  skill  of  officers  would 
stand  in  the  Republican  armies  in  lieu  of  those  influ- 
ences Vv^hich  move  the  British  soldier.  No  one  is 
foolish  enough  to  think  or  say  that  the  private  fol- 
lows his  officer  because  the  latter  has  paid  so  much 
money  for  his  commission  or  has  so  much  a  year. 
The  gradual  rise  from  one  rank  to  another  is  a  guar- 
antee of  some  military  knowledge  —  at  all  events, 
of  acquaintance  with  drill.  Social  position  counts 
for  much.  Men  who  are  equal  before  the  law  are 
very  unequal  in  the  drill-book. 

It  would  be  lamentable  to  see  so  much  faith  in  a 
cause,  such  devotion,  zeal,  boundless  expenditure, 
and  splendid  material  comparatively  lost,  —  to  behold 
the  petted  Republic  wasting  away  under  this  influ- 
ence, and  the  vis  inertice  of  the  force  it  has  called  into 
being,  —  were  it  not  that  the  spectacle  is  a  lesson  for 
the  nations.     It  has  not  yet  come  to  its  end. 

If  standing  armies  there  must  be,  let  them  be  as 
complete  in  organization  as  possible.  If  an  empire 
must  rely  on  volunteers  as  its  main  defence,  let  care 
be  taken  that  they  are  organized  and  officered  so  as 
to  be  effective,  and  regulated  on  such  principles  of 
economy  that  they  may  not  overwhelm  with  debt 
the  country  they  are  engaged  in  protecting  by  their 
arms. 


11 


m  I 


^1  1*h' 


•  h 


86 


CANADA. 


v' 


I 


i 


It  is  quite  true  that  the  Confederates  suffer  from 
the  same  disadvantages  as  those  which  affect  the 
Federals,  but  in  a  far  less  degree.  Mr.  Davis,  early 
in  the  war,  got  hold  of  the  army  and  subjected  it  to 
discipline.  It  was  not  so  difficult  to  do  so  in  the 
South  as  in  the  North,  owing  to  the  difference  in  the 
people.  The  officers  were  appointed  by  him.  The 
men  were  animated,  as  they  are  now,  by  an  intense 
hatred  of  their  enemy.  Their  armies  were  in  a  de- 
fensive attitude ;  a  large  number,  comprising  some 
of  the  best,  of  the  United  States  officers  sided  with 
them.  They  are  operating  besides  on  the  inner 
lines. 

But,  after  all,  if  the  possession  of  the  seaboard,  the 
use  of  navies,  the  vast  preponderance  of  population, 
the  ability  to  get  artillery  and  arms,  and  the  occupa- 
tion of  the  heads  of  the  great  river  communications 
be  not  utterly  thrown  away,  the  North  must  overrun 
the  South,  if  only  the  Northerners  can  fight  as  well 
as  the  Southerners,  and  if  the  Nortli  can  raise  money 
to  maintain  the  struggle. 

Let  us  leave  out  of  view  the  slave  element  for 
onee.  The  Abolitionists  assert  that  the  most  formi- 
dable weapon  in  the  United  States  armory  is  the  use 
of  the  emancipated  slave  ;  but  it  is  rather  difficult  to 
see  how  the  slaves  could  assist  the  North  as  long  as 
they  remain  obedient  and  quiet  in  the  South,  or  how 
the  North  can  get  at  them  by  a  mere  verbal  declara- 
tion till  it  has  conquered  the  Slave  States.  Above 
all,  it  is  not  clear  that  it  would  benefit  the  penniless 
exchequer  of  the  North  to  have  4,000,000  black  pau- 
pers suddenly  thrown  on  it  for  support. 

Slavery  is  to  me  truly  detestable  ;  the  more  I  saw 
of  it  the  less  I  liked  it.  It  is  painful,  to  one  who  has 
seen  the  system  at  work  and  its  results,  to  read  in 
English  journals  philosophical  —  pseudo-philosophi- 
cal treatises  on  the  subject,  and  dissertations  on  the 
"  ethics  and  aesthetics  "  of  the  curse,  from  which  \v  ^ 


SLAVERY. 


87 


shook  ourselves  free  years  ago  with  the  approbation 
of  our  ov  '\  consciences  and  of  the  world. 

Before  ).  speak  of  the  defence  of  Montreal  in  con- 
nection with  the  general  military  position  of  the 
Canadian  frontier,  I  shall  continue  my  brief  narrative 
of  my  tour  through  Canada. 


vii., 


± 


I  f'W 


m 


It- 
•J' s 


88 


CANADA. 


CriAPTPm  VII. 

First  View  of  Quebec.  —  Pnssnpe  of  the  St.  Lawrenop.  — Xovol  and  rather 
alarming  Situation.  —  Russrira  Motel.  —  'I'iic  Falls  of  Montniorenci,  and 
the  "Cone."  —  Aspect  of  tlie  (,'ity.  —  The  Point.  —  "  Tarboggiiiing." 
Description  of  the  "  Cone."  — Aiuhicity  of  one  of  my  Companions. — 
A  (Canadian  Dinner.  —  Call  on  the  (lovernor.  —  Visit  the  Citadel. — 
Its  Position.  —  Capabilities  for  Defence.  —  View  from  Parapet.  —  The 
Armory.  —  Old  Aiuskets.  —  Red-tape  Thonghtfnlness.  —  French  and 
English  Occupation  of  Quebec.  —  Strength  of  Quebec. 

It  was  early  in  the  morning  when  the  train  from 
Montreal  arrived  at  Point  Levi  on  the  right  bank  of 
the  St.  Lawrence,  a  little  above  Quebec.  The  im- 
pression produced  on  us  by  the  Heights  of  Abraham, 
by  the  frowning  citadel,  by  the  picturesque  old  city 
glistening  in  the  sun's  rays,  and  by  the  great  river 
battling  its  way  through  the  fields  of  ice  and  the 
countless  miniature  bergs,  which  it  hustled  upwards 
with  full-tide  power,  can  never  be  effaced. 

It  required  some  faith  to  enable  one  to  believe  the 
passage  could  be  made  by  mortal  boat  of  that  vast 
flood  from  which  the  crash  of  ice  sounded  endlessly, 
as  floes  and  bergs  floating  full  speed  were  dashed 
against  each  other  —  flying  fast  as  clouds  in  a  wintry 
sky  up  the  river,  the  banks  of  which  resembled  the 
sheen  sides  of  an  Alpine  crevasse.  The  force  of  the 
stream  is  so  great  as  to  rend  through  and  rupture  the 
coat  of  ice  which  is  thickened  daily,  and  the  masses 
thus  broken,  tossed  into  all  sorts  of  singular  shapes, 
jagged  and  quaint,  are  borne  up  and  down  by  the 
flood  till  they  are  melted  by  the  increasing  warmth 
of  spring.  An  ice  bridge  is  occasionally  formed  by 
the  concentration  of  the  ice  in  such  masses  as  to 
resist  the  action  of  the  water,  and  then  sleigh-horses 
cross  by  a  path  which  is  marked  out  by  poles  or 
twigs  stuck  in  the  snow,  but  it  more  usually  happens 


-.{.- 


THE  ST.   LAWRENCE. 


89 


that  the  river  opposite  Quebec  remains  unfrozen,  and 
ort'ers  the  singular  spectacle  of  the  ice  rushing  up  and 
down  every  day  as  the  ide  rises  and  falls,  to  the 
great  interest  and  excitement  of  strangers  who  have 
to  cross  from  one  side  to  the  other. 

At  first  the  attempt  seems  impracticable.  The 
deep  blue  of  the  St.  Lawrence  can  be  only  seen  here 
and  there  through  the  bergs  and  Hoes,  like  the  veins 
beneath  a  snowy  skin,  but  those  glints  are  forever 
varying  as  the  ice  passes  on.  The  clear  spaces  are 
no  sooner  caught  by  the  eye  than  they  are  filled  up 
again,  and  every  instant  there  are  fresh  refts  made  in 
the  shifting  surface,  which  is  at  once  as  solid  as  a 
glacier  and  as  yielding  as  water.  In  this  race  the 
bergs  are  carried  with  astonishing  force  and  rapidity, 
and  a  grating  noise  ;  and  a  grinding,  crashing  sound 
continually  rises  from  the  water. 

At  the  station  there  was  a  goodly  crowd  of  men 
in  ragged  fur  coats  and  caps,  pea-jackets,  and  long 
boots,  of  an  amphibious  sort,  who  did  not  quite  look 
like  sailors,  and  who  yet  were  not  landsmen.  These 
were  clamoring  for  passengers,  and  touting  with 
energy  in  a  mixture  of  French  and  English.  "  Prenez 
notr'  bateau,  M'sieu'  —  La  Belle  Alliance !  Good 
boat,  Sar !  Jean  Baptiste,  M'sieu' :  I  well  known 
boatman.  Sir."  "  The  blue  boat.  Sir,  gentleman's 
boat,  Mon  Espoir,"  "  L'Hirondelle,"  and  so  on  at  the 
top  of  their  voices.  And  sure  enough  there,  drawn 
up  on  the  snow  near  the  station,  was  a  range  of 
stout  whale-boats,  double  planked  on  the  sides,  and 
provided  with  remarkably  broad  keels. 

We  selected,  after  a  critical  inspection,  the  captain 
of  one  of  these  —  a  merry-eyed,  swarthy  fellow,  with 
a  big  beard  and  brawny  shoulders  —  as  our  Charon, 
and  following  his  directions  we  were  stowed  away  in 
a  sort  of  well  between  the  steersman  and  the  stroke- 
oar,  where  we  sat  down  with  our  legs  stretched  out 
very  comfortably,  and  were  then  covered  up  to  the 
chin  with  old  skins,  furs,  and  great-coats.     When  all 


f 


111 
1;  M 


m 


90 


CANADA. 


't   ^ 


::i 


was  ready,  a  horso  was  brought  forward  with  a  sling 
bar,  to  which  a  rope  was  attached  from  the  bow,  and 
we  glided  forward  along  the  road  towards  the  most 
favorable  point  for  crossing  at  that  stage  of  the  tide. 
Tlie  boat  was  steadied  and  guided  by  the  crew,  who 
ran  alongside  with  their  hands  on  tin  gunwales. 
Houses  by  the  road-side  snowed  up  —  shop-windows 
with  French  names  —  sallow-faced,  lean  people  look- 
ing out  of  the  grimy  windows  —  some  large  ships  on 
the  stocks,  roughly  placed  on  the  river-bank  —  these 
met  the  eye  as  we  passed  over  the  snow  road  towards 
the  point  opposite  the  city  now  looming  nearer. 
With  cheap  timber  and  labor  it  is  not  surprising  that 
the  ship-building  trade  of  Quebec  flourishes. 

For  more  than  a  mile  and  a  half  the  boat  careered 
eastwards,  in  active  emulation  with  several  other 
boats  which  were  in  our  track,  and  the  citadel  on  the 
opposite  shore  already  lay  behind  us,  before  the  horse 
was  detached  at  the  side  of  a  deep  incline  leading  to 
the  river,  and  in  another  moment  the  boat  was  glid- 
ing down  the  bank  and  rushing  for  a  blue  rent  in  the 
midst  of  the  heavy  surface,  into  which  we  splashed 
as  unerringly  as  a  wild  duck  drops  into  a  moss-hole. 
The  moment  the  bow  touched  the  water,  all  the  crew, 
some  seven  or  eight  in  number,  leaped  in  and  seized 
their  oars,  which  they  worked  with  a  will,  whilst  the 
skipper,  standing  in  the  bow,  directed  the  course  of 
the  steersman. 

We  were  now  in  a  basin  of  clear  water  surrounded 
quite  by  ice,  which  only  left  the  tops  of  the  small 
bergs  and  the  high  banks  on  each  side  visible  to  us 
seated  low  down  in  the  boat ;  and  as  we  looked  the 
floes  were  rapidly  closing  in  upon  us ;  but  the  skip- 
per saw  where  the  frozen  wall  was  about  opening, 
and  forced  the  boat  to  the  point  of  the  advancing  and 
narrowing  circle,  in  which  suddenly  a  tiny  canal  was 
cleft  by  the  parting  of  the  bergs,  and  the  opportunity 
was  instantly  seized  by  the  boatmen. 

The  ice  was  already  closing  and  gripping  the  tim- 


bers 


BOAT  ADVKNTURE. 


91 


bcrs  as  soon  as  we  liad  fairly  entered,  and  in  an  in- 
stant out  leaped  the  crew  on  the  treaeherons  snrface, 
which  here  and  there  f<ank  till  they  were  knee-deep, 
and  by  main  force  they  slid  the  boat  up  on  a  floe,  and 
rocking  her  from  side  to  side  as  a  kite  /hitters  before 
it  makes  a  swoop,  they  roused  her  along  on  the  sur- 
face of  the  ice,  which  was  Hoating  np  towards  the 
city  very  rapidly.  With  loud  cries  to  a  sort  of  (rhorus, 
the  crew  forced  the  craft  across  the  floe  till  they 
floundered  in  some  half-frozen  snow,  through  which 
the  boat  dropped  into  the  water.  Then  in  thc^y 
leaped,  like  so  many  Newfoundland  dogs  corning  to 
land,  all  wet  and  furry,  took  the  oars  again,  and 
rowed  across  and  against  the  tide-sci  as  hard  as  they 
could.  Now  in  the  water,  then  hanging  on  by  the 
gunwales,  this  moment  rowing,  in  another  tugging 
at  the  boat-ropes,  clambering  over  small  ice-rocks, 
running  across  Hoes,  sinking  suddenly  to  the  waist 
in  the  cold  torrent,  the  men  battled  with  the  current, 
and  by  degrees  the  shore  grew  nearer,  and  the  pic- 
turesque outlines  of  the  city  became  more  distinct  in 
the  morning  sun. 

What  with  the  extraordinary  combinations  and 
forms  of  the  ice  drifts,  the  inimitably  fantastic  out- 
lines of  the  miniature  ice  architecture,  and  the  novelty 
of  the  scene,  one's  attention  was  entirely  fixed  on 
what  was  passing  around,  and  it  was  not  till  we  had 
nearly  touched  land  that  we  had  time  to  admire  the 
fine  effect  of  the  streets  and  citadel,  which,  rising  from 
the  icy  wall  of  the  river-bank,  towered  aloft  over  us 
like  the  old  town  of  Edinburgh  suddenly  transplanted 
to  the  sea. 

We  found  an  opening  in  the  blue  cold  w^ater-rocks 
near  the  Custom-house  landing-wharf,  at  which  place 
there  was  a  shelving  bank;  a  stout  horse  was  at- 
tached to  the  boat  by  a  rope,  on  which  the  crew  threw 
themselves  with  enthusiasm  ;  and  in  a  few  seconds 
more  we  were  on  the  quay,  and  thence  proceeded  to 
Russell's  Hotel,  which  was  recommended  to  us  as 


92 


CANADA. 


the  best  in  the  place.  One  may  find  fault  with 
American  hostelries ;  but  assuredly  they  are  better 
than  the  imitations  of  them  which  one  finds  in  Can- 
ada, combining  all  the  bad  qualities  of  hotels  in  the 
States  and  in  Europe,  and  destitute  of  any  of  the 
good  ones. 

The  master  of  the  hotel  was  an  American,  and  he 
had  struggled  hard  "under  the  depressing  influences 
of  the  British  aristocracy  "  to  establish  an  American 
hotel,  and  he  only  succeeded  in  introducing  th^  least 
agreeable  features  of  the  institution  ;  but  the  attend- 
ants were  civil  and  obliging,  and  there  was  no  ex- 
travagant pressure  on  the  resources  of  the  place,  so 
that  we  fared  better  than  if  we  had  been  down  south 
of  the  frontier.  Even  the  landlord,  though  not  par- 
ticularly well  disposed  towards  one  so  unpopular 
among  his  countrymen  as  myself,  yielded  sc  far  to 
the  g-enius  loci  as  to  be  civil.  The  rooms  were  small, 
and  not  particularly  clean  ;  but  as  painting  and 
papering  were  going  on,  those  who  follow  me  may 
be  better  provided  for. 

A  short  rest  was  very  welcome  ;  but  what  fate  is 
like  that  which  drives  the  sight-seer  ever  onwards, 
and  forces  him,  with  the  rage  of  all  the  furies,  from 
repose  ?  "  The  Falls  of  Montmorenci  were  but  a 
drive  away,  and  the  '  Cone  '  was  in  great  perfec- 
tion." 

«  What  is  *  the  Cone  ? '  "  The  effect  of  our  igno- 
rance on  the  waiter  was  so  touching — he  v/^s  50 
astonished  by  the  profound  barbarism  of  our  con- 
dition—  that  we  felt  it  necessary  for  our  own  char- 
acter to  proceed  at  once  to  a  spot  which  forms  the 
delight  of  Quebec  in  the  v^rinter  season,  and  to  which 
the  bourgeoisie  were  repairing  in  hot  haste  for  the 
afternoon's  pleasure. 

A  sleigh  was  brought  round,  and  in  it,  ensconced 
in  furs,  we  started  oil'  for  the  Falls,  which  are  about 
eight  miles  distant.  It  was  delightful  to  see  any- 
thing so  old  on  this  continent  as  the  tortuous  streets 


QUEBEC. 


93 


of  the  city,  which  bear  marks  of  their  French  origin, 
after  such  a  long  contact  as  I  had  endured  with 
the  raw  youth  of  American  cities  in  general,  but  it 
was  impossible  to  deny  that  the  antiquity  before  us 
had  a  certain  air  of  dreary  staleness  about  it  also. 
The  double-windowed  flat-faced  houses  had  a  lanky, 
compressed  air,  as  if  they  had  be  a  starved  in  early 
life,  and  the  citizens  had  the  appearance  of  people 
who  had  no  particular  object  in  being  there,  and 
set  no  remarkable  value  on  time.  A  considerable 
sprinkling  of  priests  was  perhaps  the  most  remark- 
able feature  in  the  scene,  and  occasionally  knots  of 
ruddy-faced  riflemen,  in  all  the  glory  of  winter  fur 
caps  and  great-coats,  disputed  the  narrow  pavement, 
alternating  with  the  "  red  "  soldiers  of  the  line. 

The  city  is  built  on  very  irregular  ground,  and 
some  of  the  streets  are  so  steep  that  it  is  desirable 
for  new-comers  to  have  steel  spikes  screwed  into  the 
foot-gear  to  combat  the  inclination  to  proneness  on 
the  part  of  the  wearers.  Emerging  through  a  postern 
in  the  ancient  battlemented  wall  we  came  out  in  an 
uninteresting  suburb  of  small  houses,  from  which  a 
descent  led  to  the  margin  of  the  water.  Far  as  the 
eye  could  reach  a  vast  snow  plain  extended,  with 
surface  broken  into  ridges,  mounds,  and  long  dark 
lines,  and  dotted  with  opaque  blocks  from  which  the 
church-steeples  &prung  aloft,  indicating  the  sites  of 
villages.  The  ridges  were  the  hills  over  the  St.  Law- 
rence, the  mounds  its  islands,  and  the  lines  its  banks, 
which  expand  widely  on  the  left  to  embrace  the 
sweep  of  the  St.  Charles  Lake,  on  which  stands  the 
projecting  ledge  of  the  eastern  part  of  the  city. 

As  we  approached  the  Lak^,  over  which  our  route 
lay,  black  specks,  which  were  resolved  into  sleighs, 
or  men  and  women  on  foot,  were  visible  making 
their  way  over  the  ice,  which  was  marked  by  lines  of 
bushes  and  branches  of  trees  dressed  up  in  the  snow 
BO  as  to  indicate  the  route,  and  far  away  similar 
black  specks   could  be  made   out  crossing  the   St. 

5* 


n  :| 


n 


■Hi 


94 


CANADA. 


'  i  !'• 


Lawrence  below,  which  has  now  become  the  great 
highway.  But  not  a  very  smooth  road.  The  surface 
is  far  from  being  level,  and  consists  indeed  of  a  suc- 
cession of  undulations  in  which  the  profound  cavities 
sometimes  give  one  a  sense  of  insecure  travelling. 

On  the  whole,  however,  the  expedition  was  much 
to  be  enjoyed,  the  air  was  bracing,  and  the  cold  not 
intense,  and  the  scene  "  slid  into  the  soul "  with  all 
its  deep  tranquillity.  Doubtless  it  produced  a  very 
different  effect  on  the  red-nosed  Britons  who  were 
keeping  watch  and  ward  on  the  ramparts  of  the 
citadel,  or  on  the  poor  "  habitant  "  trudging  patiently 
beside  his  sleigh-load  of  wood,  and  knowing  that 
snow  is  his  portion  for  the  next  five  months. 

On  our  right  a  continuous  movement  of  white 
rugged  masses,  to  all  appearance  like  a  stream  of 
polar  bears,  betokened  the  course  of  the  unfrozen  St. 
Lawrence ;  on  our  left  rose  the  high  bank  of  the  lake 
over  which  we  were  travelling,  and  cottages  of  the 
villagers ;  before  us  the  sleighs  were  streaming  to- 
wards a  point  which  ran  out  into  the  river  and  beyond 
which  there  seemed  to  be  a  shallow  bay.  This  was 
the  point  at  which  the  Montmorenci  River,  recover- 
ing from  its  fall,  expanded  into  a  broad  sheet  at  its 
junction  with  the  greater  river.  Here  we  arrived  in 
about  an  hour. 

At  the  Point  there  were  a  few  houses,  some  vessels 
imbedded  in  the  snow,  and  piles  of  sawn  timber  and 
deal  planks,  and  a  great  concourse  of  sleighs ;  and 
beyond  it,  looking  up  to  the  left,  at  the  distance  of 
some  half-mile,  we  saw  a  glistening  sugar-loaf  of 
snow,  OP  the  summit  of  which  the  creaming,  yellow- 
tinged  mass  of  the  Palls  apparently  precipitated 
itself  from  the  high  precipice  which  bars  the  course 
of  the  stream.  On  the  snow  between  us  and  the 
sugar-loaf,  and  up  the  white  sides  of  the  latter,  little 
black  objects  were  toiling  with  .small  progress,  but 
at  intervals  one  of  them,  gliding  from  the  top  of  the 
cone  like  a  falling  star  in  the  Inferno,  rushed  prone 


THE  CONE. 


95 


to  the  base,  and  thence  carried  by  the  impetus  of  the 
descent  skimmed  over  the  ice  towards  us  for  hun- 
dreds of  yards,  like  a  round  shot,  till  its  force  was 
spent. 

Of  the  crowd  gathered  at  the  Point  nearly  every 
one  had  the  small  hand-sleigh,  something  like  a  tiny 
truck  with  iron  runners,  under  the  arm,  known  in  the 
vernacular  as  a  "tarboggin,"  of  the  derivation  of 
which  it  is  better  to  confess  ignorance.  A  few  were 
provided  with  sleighs  of  ampler  proportions,  and  all 
the  visitors  were  bent  on  tarboggining  it,  either  from 
a  shoulder  of  the  Cone  or  from  the  summit  of  the 
mass  itself. 

As  we  approached  over  the  snow  the  natives,  men 
and  women,  flew  past  us  on  their  way  after  a  rush 
down  the  Cone,  shouting  to  the  by-standers  to  take 
care.  Sometimes  two  were  together,  the  lady  seated 
on  the  front  part  of  the  machine,  the  man  behind 
lying  on  his  face  with  his  feet  stretched  out  so  as  to 
guide  the  sleigh  by  the  smallest  touch  against  the 
ice.  At  a  distance  the  pleasure-seekers  looked  like 
some  hideous  insects  impelled  towards  us  with  in- 
credible velocity.  As  they  came  near  and  flew  past, 
the  expression  of  their  countenances  by  no  means 
indicated  serene  enjoyment. 

Near  the  Cone  itself  a  crowd  of  "  tarboggin  "  hirers 
and  guides  beset  us  and  guaranteed  a  safe  descent, 
but  it  seemed  a  doubtful  pleasure  at  best,  and  there 
was  some  chance  of  breaking  limb,  as  we  were  told 
happ'^ned  frequently  during  the  season.  We  ascended 
to  the  lower  shoulder  of  the  Cone  by  steps  in  the  snow, 
and  gazed  on  the  scene  with  some  curiosity.  Not 
only  were  the  people  launching  themselves  from  the 
Cone,  but  more  adventurous  still  there  were  who, 
climbing  up  the  steep  side  of  the  precipice,  tarboggin 
under  arm,  at  last  reached  some  vagtage  snow,  by 
the  side  of  the  Fall,  where  they  threw  themselves 
flat  on  the  sleigh,  and  then  came  rushing  down  with 
a  force  which  carried  them  clear  up  the  side  of  the 


'■",':}.  ll 


.••?'■  il 


if- 


06 


CANADA. 


lower  ledge  of  the  Cone  and  over  it,  so  that  they 
were  once  more  plunged  downwards,  and  were  borne 
off  towards  the  St.  Lawrence. 

It  could  now  be  very  plainly  seen  that  the  Falls 
fell  behind  the  Cone  into  a  boiling  turbulent  basin, 
which  fretted  the  edge  of  the  ice  and  repelled  its 
advances.  Although  much  diminished  in  volume 
the  body  of  water,  which  makes  a  leap  of  250  feet 
down  a  sheer  rock  face  into  the  caldron,  was  suffi- 
ciently large  to  present  all  the  finest  characteristics 
of  a  waterfall,  but  it  was  at  times  enveloped  in  a 
mist  of  snow,  or  rather  of  frozen  spray,  which  blew 
into  eyes,  mouth,  ears,  and  clothes,  and  penetrated 
to  the  very  marrow  of  one's  bones.  And  it  is  of 
this  ever-falling  frozen  rain  the  Cone  is  built,  and  as 
the  wintt^r  lengthens  on  the  Cone  grows  higher  and 
higher,  till  in  favorable  seasons  it  reaches  an  altitude 
of  120  feet.  It  is  as  regular  as  the  work  of  an  archi- 
tect, and,  I  need  not  say,  much  more  beautiful.  At 
present  it  had  not  attained  its  full  growth,  and  was 
only  80  feet  in  height  —  but  its  symmetry  was  of 
Nature's  own  handiwork.  The  Falls  are  in  a  narrow 
concave  cup  of  rock  crested  with  pine  forests,  and 
its  sides  now  forbid  the  ascent,  which  is  practicable 
in  summer  time  by  a  series  of  natural  steps  in  the 
strata.  The  waters  cover  this  young  cone  with  wings 
of  spray  and  foam,  and  flittering,  tremulous,  and 
unsubstantial  as  they  are,  it  is  nevertheless  from  their 
aerial  vapors  that  the  solid  and  sturdy  ice-mountain 
grows  up. 

Of  its  substantial  nature  we  had  an  excellent  proof 
—  of  a  human,  practical  kind ;  for,  obeying  many 
invitations,  we  walked  along  a  snow-path  which  led 
to  a  pcrtal  cut  in  the  solid  oxide  of  hydrogen,  and 
entering  found  ourselves  in  a  hot  and  stuffy  apart- 
ment, excavate.d  from  the  body  of  the  Cone,  in  which 
there  was  an  Americanized  bar,  with  drinks  suited  to 
the  locality,  and  as  much  want  of  air  as  one  would 
find  in  a  house  in  the  Fifth  Avenue  of  New  York. 


TARBOGGINING. 


97 


It  was  full  of  people,  who  drank  whiskey  and  othei 
strong  waters. 

I  know  not  by  what  seduction  overconie,  but,  some- 
how, so  it  happened,  that  one  of  my  companions,  on 
our  return  to  the  outer  air  and  light,  was  led  to  sac- 
rifice himself  on  a  tarboggin,  and  yielded  to  a  demon 
guide.  I  watched  him  toiling  on,  with  painful  steps 
and  slow,  doggedly  up  the  path  towards  the  slippery 
summit,  and,  when  he  had  gained  it,  I  slid  down 
below  to  observe  the  result  of  the  experiment,  and 
judge  whether  it  looked  pleasant  or  not.  He  was 
but  an  item  among  many,  but  1  knew  he  was  among 
the  braves  des  braves^  and  had  received  a  baptism  of 
fire  in  the  trenches  of  Sebastopol,  which  had  rained 
a  very  font  of  glory  in  India,  and  scarcely  paled  in 
China.  I  watched  him  assuming  the  penal  attitude 
to  which  the  young  tarbogginer  is  condemned,  and 
after  a  balance  for  a  moment  on  the  giddy  height, 
his  guide  gave  a  kick  to  the  snow,  and  down  like  a 
plunging  bomb  flew  the  ice  -  winged  Icarus.  He 
passed  me  close  ;  I  could  see  and  n.ark  him  well. 
Never,  to  judge  from  facial  expressioi;,  could  man 
have  been  in  deadlier  fear.  With  hara-set  mouth, 
staring  and  rigid  eyes,  and  aspect  quite  antipathetic 
to  pleasure,  he  careered  like  one  who\  is  falling  from 
a  house-top,  and  his  countenance  had  scarce  assumed 
its  wonted  placid  look  when  I  met  him  gasping  and 
half  faint.  And  yet  he  had  the  astounding  audacity 
to  say,  "  It  was  delicious.  Never  had  a  more  deUght- 
ful  moment,"  when  he  came  back  pale  and  panting 
from  his  flight. 

We  returned  from  the  Falls  by  a  hilly,  rough  road 
over  the  bank  of  the  Lake,  and  arrived  at  our  hotel 
in  time  to  dress  for  dinner,  to  which  I  was  invited 
at  the  house  of  a  Canadian  gentleman,  I  think  an 
Englishman  by  birth,  who  entertained  us  right  hos- 
pitably. 

There  is  a  wonderful  calm  in  the  conversation  of 
the  Canadians,  perhaps  a  little  too  much  so,  but  it  ia 


n 


.  V- 


;■ 


\%   1 


il 


.■!      I 


«;!k 


n 


■i 


11  ■■ 


Itt 


98 


CANADA. 


a  relief  from  the  ambitious  restlessness  of  the  com- 
mon American.  The  Canadian  mind  suffers  as  the 
mind  of  every  country  which  is  not  a  nationality 
must  suffer,  and  caution  assumes  the  place  of  enter- 
prise. If  the  Americans  knew  the  business  of  diplo- 
macy a  little  better,  and  could  but  restrain  the  dem- 
ocratic vice  of  boastful  threatening  and  arrogant 
menace,  they  could  have  alienated  Canada  from  our 
cold  rule  long  ago,  even  though  Canada  would  have 
lost  by  the  change  many  privileges  and  a  cheap  pro- 
tection to  her  industry,  commerce,  and  social  expan- 
sion. 

February  10th.  —  To-day  I  paid  my  respects  to 
His  Excellency  the  Governor,  Viscount  Monck,  and 
proceeded  to  visit  the  citadel,  which  is  now  occu- 
pied by  a  battalion  of  the  60th  Rifles  under  Colonel 
Hawley.  Independently  of  the  historical  associa- 
tions which  attach  to  this  commanding-looking  work, 
I  was  attracted  to  it  by  the  consideration  that  it  has 
twice  saved  Canada  to  Great  Britain.  I  am  bound 
to  say  that,  in  my  poor  opinion,  it  will  never  do  so 
again,  if  left  in  its  present  condition.  The  works, 
once  strong,  have  lost  much  of  their  importance  since 
the  introduction  of  long-range  artillery,  and  the  arma- 
ment is  in  a  very  imperfect  condition,  consisting  of 
old-fashioned  pieces  of  small  calibre,  which  could 
furnish  no  reply  to  a  battery  established  on  the 
heights  across  the  St.  Lawrence. 

The  citadel  itself  has  in  its  construction  some  of 
the  points  of  a  regular  fortress  after  Vauban,  and  on 
the  river  side  the  parapets  tower  aloft  from  a  steep 
rock,  which  puts  one  in  mind  of  the  site  of  the  plat- 
form at  Berne  ;  but  on  the  east  side  it  is  hampered 
by  houses  and  by  the  suburbs  of  the  city  ;  and  it 
could  be  approached  without  much  difficulty  from  the 
other  side,  as  soon  as  p  lodgment  could  be  effected 
on  the  Heights  of  Abraham.  The  fosses  and  ditchos 
were  partially  filled  with  snow,  which  obscured  the 
ground  and  the  adjacent  country,  if  such  whiteness 


THE  CITADEL. 


99 


can  obscure  anything.  Colonel  Hawley  was  good 
enough  to  show  us  over  the  works  and  point  out  the 
objects  of  interest  as  far  as  they  could  be  discerned. 
Among  them  were  some  ancient  iron  guns  on  which 
Great  Britain  ought  not  to  rely  for  very  effective 
service  in  the  defence  of  the  place. 

But  some  new  heavy  guns  have  recently  been 
mounted,  others  are  to  follow,  and  as  the  ordnance 
stores  in  Canada  will  soon  be  replenished  with  the 
best  description  of  pieces,  there  then  need  be  no  ap- 
prehension for  Quebec  on  the  score  of  weak  artillery  ; 
or  for  a  position  that  is  the  key  of  Quebec,  which  is 
most  emphatically  the  master-key  of  Canada. 

The  outworks  of  the  citadel  itself,  however,  are 
not  by  any  means  in  a  satisfactory  condition ;  even 
the  high  parapet  overlooking  the  lower  town  might 
be  crumbled  away  and  expose  the  interior  of  the 
place ;  in  one  particular  part  of  this  work  the  guns 
are  masked  by  blocks  of  houses,  the  windows  of 
which  actually  look  into  the  interior  of  the  citadel, 
and  the  fire  of  the  place  could  be  so  impeded,  and 
the  defence  so  cramped  by  the  existing  enceinte,  that 
1  very  much  doubt  whether  it  would  not  be  better  to 
remove  the  latter  altogether. 

We  trudged  patiently  around  the  long  lines  of 
parapet  in  the  snow,  now  looking  down  upon  the 
river  clamorous  with  its  burden  of  ice,  and  on  the 
tortuous  streets  of  the  old-fashioned  town.  In  sum- 
mer and  in  the  open  months  the  St.  Lawrence  is 
thickly  studded  with  ships  ;  and  dense  forests  of 
masts  line  the  course  of  its  banks ;  but  now  the  only 
specimen  of  commercial  enterprise  on  its  bosom  con- 
sisted of  a  few  canoes  struggling  backwards  and 
forwards  through  ice  and  water  with  their  scanty 
freights. 

Inside  the  citadel,  cherry-cheeked  riflemen  were 
playing  like  schoolboys  in  the  snow.  In  spite  of 
temptation  the  regiment  was  in  good  condition  ;  and 
although  in  modern  days  some  objection  might  be 


.  'f 


I  ' 


■nil 


100 


CANADA. 


if  ■  :h 

I'   p 

■i 


taken  to  the  closeness  of  their  quarters  in  summer, 
the  British  soldiers  who  served  under  Wolfe  would 
have  been  greatly  astonished  if  they  could  have  seen 
the  comforts  enjoyed  by,  and  the  cares  bestowed  on, 
their  descendants.  Even  those  much-neglected,  in- 
jured Penelopes,  the  soldiers'  wives,  are  tolerably  well 
off  in  their  quarters,  somewhat  too  crowded,  it  is  true, 
but  still  more  comfortable  than  at  Aldershot  or  the 
Tower. 

After  a  long  march  along  the  parapet,  in  which  I 
stumbled  across  more  rotting  gun-carriages,  useless 
mortars,  and  bad  platforms  than  I  care  to  mention, 
we  visited  the  Armory,  which  is  near  the  parade- 
ground  of  the  citadel.  The  stock  of  fire-arms  is  ar- 
ranged with  great  taste,  and  the  cleanliness  and 
effectiveness  of  all  the  material  reflected  credit  on  the 
storekeeper. 

Some  of  the  contents  consisted  of  very  interesting 
rifle* of  renowned  makers  in  former  days,  with  carved 
stocks,  flintlocks,  and  barrels  encrusted  with  gold, 
intended  as  presents  to  Indian  chiefs  and  warriors  of 
tribes  sufficiently  strong  to  cause  us  injury  by  their 
hostility  or  render  us  service  by  their  alliance.  Old 
flintlock  muskets  of  inferior  quality,  with  barrels 
like  so  many  feet  of  cast-iron  piping,  intended  for  the 
indiscriminate  destruction  of  friend  or  foe  ;  horse- 
pistols  of  the  fashion  in  vogue  one  hundred  years 
ago,  and  the  like,  were  to  be  found  in  the  same 
spacious  apartment,  which  contained  specimens  of 
the  most  recent  improvements  in  fire-arms.  Formerly 
flint  pistols  were  served  out  to  the  frontier  patrols, 
but  of  course  percussion  locks  have,  for  many  years, 
been  given  to  all  those  employed  in  the  service  of 
the  Crown  in  a  military  capacity.  Some  worthy 
official  at  home,  however,  still  continues  to  send  out 
barrels  of  flints  with  laudable  punctuality,  as  he  has 
not  been  relieved  by  superior  order  from  the  necessity 
of  keeping  up  the  supply  of  these  articles.  We  have 
all  heard  of  the  forethought  evinced  by  the  home 


Ik,!^ 


RED-TAPE  IHOUGHTFULNESS. 


101 


authorities,  when  they  sent  out  water-tanks  for  our 
lake  flotilla,  forgetting  that  they  were  borne  on  an 
element  quite  fit  for  drinking.  But  1  heard  in  the 
citadel  of  a  still  more  remarkable  instance  of  thought- 
fulness. 

A  ship  arrived  at  Quebec  some  time  ago  with  an 
enormous  spar  reaching  from  her  bowsprit  to  her 
taffrail  consigned  to  the  storekeeper.  It  had  been 
the  plague  of  the  ship's  company,  it  had  been  in 
everybody's  way,  and  had  nearly  caused  the  loss  of 
the  vessel  in  some  gales  of  wind.  The  whole  re- 
sources of  the  quartermaster-general's  department 
were  taxed  to  get  it  safely  mi  shore,  and  transport  it 
to  the  heights.  And  what  was  it  ?  A  flag-staff  for 
the  citadel.  And  what  was  it  made  of?  A  stout 
Canadian  pine,  which  had  probably  been  sent  from 
the  St.  Lawrence  in  a  timber-ship  to  the  government 
officials  at  home,  who,  having  duly  shaped  and 
pruned  it  into  a  flag-staff",  returned  it  to  the  land  of 
its  birth  at  some  considerable  expense  to  John  Bull. 

Th>^  citadel  is  of  no  mean  extent,  but  covers  about 
forty  acres  of  ground,  and  necessarily  requires  a  very 
strong  garrison;  if  they  were  exposed  to  shell  or 
vertical  fire  from  the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  or 
from  the  western  side  of  the  place,  as  there  is  no  de- 
fence provided,  they  would  certainly  suffer  great  loss. 
It  is  obvious  that  a  permanent  work  must  be  built  at 
Point  Levi,  to  sweep  the  approaches  and  prevent  the 
establishment  of  hostile  batteries  on  the  river.  A 
regular  bastion  with  outworks  should  be  constructed 
on  the  heights  above  the  point,  in  order  to  make 
Quebec  safe. 

There  are  also  dangers  to  be  apprehended  from  the 
occupation  of  the  railway  terminus  at  Riviere  du 
Loup  which  do  not  affect  Quebec  immediately,  but 
are,  nevertheless,  to  be  carefully  guarded  against.  In 
the  event  of  war  appearing  imminent,  a  temporary 
work  to  cover  the  terminus  on  the  land  side,  and 
sweep  the  river,  would  be  necessary. 


•.lii 


I* 


102 


CANADA. 


There  exist  the  remains  of  some  outworks  in  ad- 
vance of  the  citadel,  which  are  so  well  placed  that  it 
would  be  very  desirable  to  reconstruct  defences  on 
their  sites.  They  are  called  +he  French  works,  and 
their  position  does  credit  to  ti.  ^kill  of  the  engineer 
who  chose  it. 

The  British  flag  has  waved  for  just  102  years  from 
Cape  Diamond,  but  the  Fleur-de-lis  had  fluttered  on 
the  same  point  for  220  years,  with  the  exception  of 
the  three  years  from  1629  to  1632,  when  Sir  David 
Kirke  placed  Quebec  in  our  hands. 

Nothing  proves  the  inaccuracy  of  artillery  in  those 
days  more  strikingly  than  the  inability  of  the  French, 
on  Cape  Diamond,  to  prevent  the  British  transports 
landing  their  men  at  Point  Levi,  although  the  St. 
Lawrence  is  little  more  than  1000  yards  broad  op- 
posite the  citadel.  By  our  bombardment,  however, 
we  nearly  laid  Quebec  in  the  dust  before  the  action. 

On  account  of  the  very  natural  remembrance  of 
the  glory  of  Wolfe's  attack,  his  death  and  victory,  it 
has  almost  been  forgotten  that  our  first  attempt  to  ' 
land  at  Montmorenci  was  repulsed  by  Montcalm 
with  the  loss  of  600  men ;  and  it  was  only  when  the 
original  scheme  failed,  that  Wolfe  conceived  the  plan 
of  reembarking  his  troops,  and  landing  above  the 
town.  He  had  8000  regular  troops ;  the  Fronch  had 
10,000  men,  but  of  these  only  five  battalions  were 
regular  French  soldiers.  Montcalm  believed  no  doubt 
that  he  could  drive  the  British  into  the  river,  or  force 
them  to  surrender,  and  he  threw  the  force  of  his  at- 
tack on  the  British  right,  which  rested  on  the  river. 
The  French  right,  consisting  of  Indians  and  Qana- 
dians,  was  easily  routed  ;  the  French  left,  deprived 
of  the  services  of  its  general  and  of  his  second  in 
command,  was  ultimately  broken,  and  fled  towards 
the  town,  covered  in  some  degree  by  the  centre 
battalions,  which  fell  back  steadily;  nor  was  it  till 
five  days  after  the  battle  that  Quebec  fell  into  our 
hands.     The  fire  must  have  been  exceedingly  close 


WOLFE  —  MURRAY  ~  ARNOLD. 


103 


and 


and  desperate ;  and  its  effects  speak  well  for  the 
efficiency  of  old  Brown  Bess  at  close  quarters,  for 
out  of  the  force  engaged,  the  British  lost  over  630, 
and  the  French  1500,  of  whom  1000  were  wounded 
or  taken  prisoners.  There  was  little  artillery  engaged  ; 
for  we  had  but  one,  and  the  French  but  two  or  three 
pieces  on  the  heights.  A  very  few  months  afterwards 
we  had  nigh  lost  that  which  we  had  so  gallantly  and 
fortunately  gained. 

On  the  28th  April  next  year,  General  Murray, 
following  the  example  of  Montcalm,  and  depriving 
himself  of  the  advantages  which  a  position  inside  the 
walls  of  Quebec  would  have  given  him,  moved  out  on 
the  Heights  of  Abraham,  with  3000  men  and  twenty 
guns,  to  oppose  the  French  under  the  Chevalier  de 
Levi,  who  were  moving  down  upon  the  city.  In  an  ill- 
conceived  attack  on  the  enemy,  Murray  lost  no  less 
than  1000  men  and  all  his  guns,  and  had  to  retreat 
to  the  city.  He  was  only  relieved  by  the  arrival  of  a 
British  squadron  in  the  river,  which  compelled  the 
French  to  retire  with  the  loss  of  all  their  artillery. 

Looking  down  upon  the  narrow  path  below  the 
parapet,  one  must  do  credit  to  the  daring  of  Arnold, 
Montgomery,  and  the  Americans  in  their  disastrous 
attempt  to  carry  the  citadel  by  an  escalade.  Arnold, 
after  his  astonishing  march  and  desperate  perils  by 
the  Kennebec  and  Chaudiere,  —  which  has  been  well 
styled  by  General  Carmichael  Smyth  one  of  the  most 
wonderful  instances  of  perseverance  and  spirit  of 
enterprise  upon  record,  —  followed  the  course  pur- 
sued by  Wolfe  ;  and  embarking  at  Point  Levi,  occu- 
pied the  Heights  of  Abraham  but  when  Montgomery 
joined  him  from  Montreal,  it  was  found  they  had  no 
heavy  artillery.  Thus  they  were  forced  either  to 
march  back  again,  or  to  try  to  carry  the  place  by 
storm.  Two  columns,  led  by  Arnold  and  Montgom- 
ery, endeavored  to  push  through  the  street  at  the  foot 
of  the  citadel,  one  from  the  east  and  another  from 
the  west. 


i 


104 


CANADA. 


^^' 


U 


m 


•11 


The  Canadians  say,  that  after  Montj^omery  car- 
ried the  entrenchment,  which  extended  from  the  foot 
of  the  dirt*  to  the  river,  he  rushed  at  the  head  of  his 
column,  followed  by  a  group  of  officers,  towards  a 
second  work,  on  which  was  mounted  a  small  field- 
j)iece.  The  Americans  were  just  within  twenty  yards 
when  a  Canadian  fired  the  gun,  which  was  loaded 
with  grape.  Montgomery  and  the  officers  who  fol- 
lowed him  were  swept  down  in  a  heap  of  killed  and 
wounded,  and  the  column  at  once  fled  in  confusion. 
Arnold,  who  had  forced  his  way  into  the  houses 
under  the  citadel,  was  carried  back  wounded  soon 
after  his  gallant  advance  ;  and  the  Canadians  again 
claim  for  one  of  their  own  countrymen,  named  Dam- 
bourges,  the  honor  of  having  led  the  sortie  from  the 
citadel  which  charged  the  Americans,  and  forced 
those  who  were  not  slain  to  surrender. 

Certainly  the  Canadians  showed  upon  that  occa- 
sion, as  no  doubt  they  would  again,  a  strong  indis- 
position to  fraternize  with  the  American  apostles  of 
liberty,  equality,  and  fraternity;  they  harassed  their 
communications,  and,  under  their  seigneurs,  cut  off 
several  detachments.  The  attempt  on  Quebec  was 
never  repeated ;  and  the  Americans  fared  but  ill  in 
both  their  Canadian  campaigns. 

A  well-organized  expedition  made  in  winter  time 
would  now  be  attended  with  far  greater  danger  than 
it  was  in  former  days,  and  if  the  snow  remained  in 
good  condition,  artillery,  provisions,  and  munitions 
of  war  could  be  transported  with  greater  facility  than 
on  the  ordinary  country  roads.  Quebec  would, 
under  these  circumstances,  be  deprived  of  the  co- 
operation of  the  fleet ;  but  with  the  improvement  in 
the  defence  which  would  be  effected  by  the  erection 
of  a  regular  work  at  Point  Levi,  and  by  the  altera- 
tions indicated  in  the  citadel  itself,  Quebec  would  be 
in  a  position  to  resist  any  force  the  Americans  might 
direct  against  it,  and  would  have  nothing  to  fear  ex- 
cept from  regular  siege  operations,  which  there  was 


MS 


QUEBEC. 


105 


no  chance  of  interrupting  or  raising.  It  would  be 
most  important  to  have  the  feelings  of  the  inhabitants 
enlisted  on  our  side.  I  fear  there  is  reason  to  believe 
that  they  are  antagonistic  to  the  Americans,  rather 
than  violently  enamored  of  ourselves. 

Having  enjoyed  a  view  from  the  Flag-staff  Tower, 
3f50  feet  above  the  river,  which  in  summer  must  be 
one  of  the  grandest  in  the  world,  and  which  even  now 
was  full  of  interest,  my  visit  to  the  Citadel  was  ter- 
minated by  lunch  in  the  mess-room,  and  I  returned 
homewards  through  the  city.  I  was  encircled  with 
people  enjoying  the  keen  bright  air,  though  the  ther- 
mometer was  twenty  degrees  below  freezing  point. 

Not  the  least  interesting  to  me  of  the  people  were 
the  hdhitans  in  their  long  robes  gathered  in  round  the 
waist  by  scarlet  or  bright-colored  sashes,  with  long 
boots,  and  fur  caps,  and  French  faces,  chatting  in 
their  Old-World  French ;  and  the  monks,  or  regular 
clergy,  who  moved  as  beings  of  another  age  and  world 
through  the  more  modern  types  of  civilization,  —  such 
as  fast  officers  in  fast  sleighs,  and  the  Anglicized 
families  in  their  wheelless  caleches.  I  had  the  honor 
of  an  invitation  to  dine  at  the  club  called  Stadacona, 
which  is  a  corruption  or  modification  of  Indian 
words  signifying  "  the  site  of  a  strait,"  where  I  met  a 
number  of  the  citizens  of  Quebec  at  an  excellent  sub- 
stantial dinner,  which  had  far  more  of  English  tastes 
than  of  French  cookery  about  it.  The  conversation 
did  not  disclose  any  symptoms  of  the  tendency  to- 
wards Americanization  which  the  Northern  journals 
are  so  fond  of  attributing  to  the  people  of  Canada ; 
but  it  was  perceptible  that  a  war  with  America  was 
regarded  as  an  evil  which  could  only  fall  on  Canada 
because  of  her  connection  with  Great  Britain,  and 
that  Great  Britain  ought  therefore  to  take  a  main 
part  in  it.  The  Canadians  are  proud  of  the  part 
borne  by  De  Salaberry  and  others  in  the  former  war; 
but,  greatly  as  the  country  has  advanced,  I  doubt  if 
there  is  now  such  a  population  of  ready,  hardy  fight- 


'M. 


m 


106 


CANADA. 


ing  men  as  then  existed ;  for  most  of  the  hunters, 
lumberers,  and  nomad  half-castes,  who  cannot  be 
called  settlers,  have  been  absorbed  in  cultivated  lands 
and  settled  habits.  The  appointment  of  British  offi- 
cers to  organize  and  command  the  volunteers  has  given 
offence ;  and  I  think  it  would  be  advisable,  if  not 
necessary,  in  case  of  actual  war,  to  let  the  volunteers 
choose  their  officers  within  certain  limits,  and  to  give 
the  authorities  corresponding  to  our  lords-lieutenant 
of  counties  power  to  name  the  commanding  officers 
of  corps,  under  the  sanction  of  the  Governor-General. 


LOWER  CANADA. 


107 


CHAPTER  VIII. 


is 


Lower  Cnnada  and  Ancient  France.  —  Soldiers  in  Garrison  at  Quebec.  — 
Canadian  Volunteers. —  The  Governor-(}eneral  Viscount  Monck.  —  Uni- 
form ill  tlie  United  States.  —  A  Sleigliing  Part}'. —  Dinner  and  Calico 
Ball. 

I  AM  afraid  that  in  this  Lower  Canada  just  now 
we  do  but  occupy  the  position  of  a  garrison.  The 
aspect  and  the  habit  of  the  popular  mind  are  foreign, 
but  they  are  not  French  any  more  —  at  least  modern 
French  ;  rather  are  they  of  an  Old- World  France  - 
of  a  France  v/hen  there  was  an  ancient  faith  and  a 
son  of  St.  Louis ;  when  there  was  a  white  flag  blaz- 
oned with  fleur-de-lis,  and  a  priesthood  dominant  — 
a  France  loyal,  chivalrous,  and  bigoted,  without 
knowledge  and  without  railways,  content  to  stand  on 
ancient  paths,  and  hating  reform  and  active  mutation. 
What  a  change  has  occurred  since  the  old  Bourbon 
struck  the  medal  with  its  inscription,  "  Francia  in 
Novo  Orbe  Victrix,  Kebeca  Liberata.  1690."  There 
may  be  marty  in  Canada  who  cannot  forget  their 
origin  and  their  race,  kept  alive  in  their  memories  by 
a  common  tongue,  ancient  traditions,  and  antipathy 
to  a  foreign  rule  exercised  from  a  far-off"  land,  and 
sometimes  manifested  by  rude,  rough  instruments, 
and  by  a  mechanism  of  force ;  but  it  would  be  well 
for  them  to  remember  that,  whilst  France  has  passed 
through  many  convulsions,  Canada  has  been  saved 
from  external  and  internal  foes,  with  the  exception  of 
the  American  invasion  in  1812,  and  the  troubles 
caused  by  her  own  disaffected  people  at  a  later  period, 
whilst  as  an  appanage  of  France  she  must  have 
undergone  incessant  anxieties  and  assaults.  She  has 
been  spared  the  agonies  of  the  Revolution,  the  ex- 


i.?«l 


108 


CANADA. 


haustive  glories  and  collapse  of  the  Empire,  the 
reaction  of  the  "  Desired  one  "  —  the  consequences 
of  the  convulsions  of  1830,  of  1848,  of  1852.  Great 
Britain,  too,  is  bound  to  remember  that  she  is  deal- 
ing with  a  brave  and  ancient  race,  delivered  to  her 
rule  under  treaty,  who  have,  on  the  whole,  resisted 
many  temptations,  and  preserved  a  firm  attachment 
to  her  government  in  the  face  of  an  aggressive  and 
prosperous  Republic.  Our  soldiers  must  be  taught 
to  respect  the  people  of  Canada  as  their  equals  and 
fellow-subjects,  —  a  hard  lesson  perhaps  for  imperious 
islanders,  but  not  the  less  necessary  to  learn,  if  we 
would  preserve  their  attachment  and  our  territories. 

In  justice  to  them  I  must  say  that  the  60th  Rifles 
gave  no  occasion  to  the  people  to  complain,  though 
Quebec  is  not  destitute  of  its  "  rough  "  fellows,  and 
of  provocations  ;  and  that  during  my  stay  in  Canada 
I  only  heard  of  one  instance  in  which  officers  or  men 
could  be  accused  of  indiscretion  or  want  of  respect 
for  the  people.  Whiskey  is  shockingly  cheap  and 
atrociously  bad,  and  public  houses  are  only  too 
numerous,  so  that  the  base  upon  which  the  evils 
which  afflict  the  soldier  rest  is  not  wanting  here  any 
more  than  at  home. 

A  garrison  rule  must  be  very  galling  unless  the 
officers  and  men  are  minded  to  behave  themselves, 
and  it  would  cause  me  regret  if  my  observations  of 
some  regrettable  circumstances  in  that  relation  were 
confirmed  by  larger  experience.  Of  course  the  peas- 
ants are  provoking ;  they  are  heavy  and  coarse,  rely- 
ing on  their  vis  inertice,  and  aggressively  pa'ssive. 
The  other  day,  for  instance,  w^hen  Lord  Monck  was 
leading  his  sleigh  party,  several  country  carts  came 
down  from  the  opposite  direction  in  the  deep  track, 
and  it  was  with  the  utmost  difficulty  the  driver  of  our 
party  avoided  collision  with  them,  as  the  habitans 
would  not  get  out  of  the  way.  Still  one  does  not  like 
to  see  young  Greenhorn  of  the  Invincibles  flicking  up 
the  bourgeoisie  with  his  whip  as  he  whisks  round  a 


DINNER  AT  LORD  MONCK'S. 


109 


corner,  for  not  getting  out  of  the  way.  A  gallant 
captain  of  volunteer  artillery  complainod  greatly  of 
matters  of  this  kind,  but  he  also  expressed  very  un- 
reasonable jealousy  respecting  the  appointment  of 
English  olKcers  to  superintend  and  organize  and  com- 
mand the  force. 

February  IWi.  —  Still  more  snow  falling,  and  the 
cold  sharper  than  ever.  Visited  the  Parliament 
Houses  and  Library,  of  which  more  hereafter ;  saw 
the  Ursuline  Chapel;  called  on  Mr.  Cartier,  Mr. 
Macdonald,  Mr.  Cauchon,  and  Mr.  Gait,  members 
of  the  Ministry,  to  whom  I  had  introductions.  In 
the  evening  dined  with  the  Governor-General  and 
Lady  Monck  at  Government  House.  Although  His 
Excellency  has  been  but  a  short  time  in  the  coun- 
try, and  succeeded  an  able,  energetic  man,  he  has 
already  gained  the  confidence  of  men  difficult  to 
win,  and  gives  fair  promise  of  administering  the 
affairs  of  the  provinces  with  sagacity  and  vigor.  It 
occurred  to  me,  considering  the  position  of  Canada, 
that,  to  escape  from  the  consequences  of  divided 
views  and  command,  it  would  be  desirable  to  have 
the  military  and  civil  administration  in  one  hand  at 
critical  junctures,  or  to  send  out  a  soldier  as  Gov- 
ernor-General. To  be  a  good  soldier  one  must  be 
gifted  with  the  faculties  which  constitute  a  good 
ruler,  and  the  civilian  can  only  possess  those  same 
qualities  minus  the  special  knowledge  of  the  pro- 
fessional military  man.  Lord  Monck,  however,  has 
applied  himself  with  ability  and  zeal  to  the  consider- 
ation of  the  provincial  defences. 

The  table  of  the  Canadian  Viceroy  was  elegant 
and  hospitable ;  and  it  was  a  relief  to  the  eye  to 
catch  such  semblance  of  state  as  was  afforded  by  the 
scarlet  uniforms  and  gold  lace  of  the  aides-de-camp, 
military  secretary,  and  others  of  His  Excellency's 
household,  who  were  at  dinner,  after  the  long  mo- 
notony of  American  black.  Not  but  that  now  and 
then  uniform  was  creeping  in  at  private  dinner-tables 

6 


ii 


'  MHr:^'  '» 


J'  I 


^ 


M 


110 


CANADA. 


in  the  States  also,  principally  on  the  persons  of  for- 
eign-born officers.  Bnt  it  is,  or  rather  it  was,  op- 
posed to  the  custom  of  the  country. 

I  remember  Mr.  Seward  telling  me  one  day,  when 
we  met  in  Washington,  that  it  was  contrary  to  eti- 
quette for  a  foreigner  to  wear  the  livery  of  his  royal 
master  or  mistress  in  the  United  States.  Soon  after- 
wards I  saw  at  table  a  colonel  in  full  uniform  of  the 
French  infantry  ;  but,  on  inquiry,  I  learned  he  was 
in  command  of  a  New  York  regiment  composed  of 
his  exiled  compatriots ;  and  a  very  gallant  regiment 
—  in  spite  of  its  Anglophobia,  loudly  expressed  dur- 
ing the  Trent  affair  —  it  proved  itself.  Even  here 
let  me  tell  a  story.  When  the  colonel  in  question, 
who  had  been  for  many  years  a  journalist  in  New 
York,  appeared  in  Washington,  after  getting  his 
commission,  he  repaired  to  the  house  of  an  astute 
and  witty  diplomatist,  with  whom  he  had  an  ancient 
intimacy.  "  Ah !  my  dear  colonel,"  exclaimed  the 
Minister,  "  by  accepting  the  command  of  your  regi- 
ment, you  have  cut  short  the  friendship  of  ten 
years."  —  "  How  is  that.  Excellence  ?  "  —  "  Why,  how 
can  we  ever  meet  again  as  of  yore?  I  cannot  dine 
with  you ;  for  how  dare  I  present  myself  in  your 
camp  ?  "  —  "  Why  not,  Excellence  ?  "  — ''  Why,  my 
dear  friend,  do  you  think  I  could  ever  get  my  hair 
dressed  well  enough  to  please  the  five  hundred 
French  coiffeurs  in  your  regiment  ?  "  —  "  But,  at  all 
events,  my  dear  Minister,  I  can  come  and  dine  with 
you  !  "  —  "  Impossible,  my  friend  !  How  could  I  ven- 
ture to  ask  a  man  to  dinner  who  has  under  his 
orders  five  hundred  French  cooks ! " 

More  snow.  The  landlord  is  rather  impressed 
with  the  news  that  the  Union  army  is  positively 
about  to  march  on  Richmond  at  once ;  and,  indeed, 
it  is  only  the  sceptical  mind,  with  some  knowledge 
of  facts,  that  can  resist  the  etfect  of  the  constant 
iteration  of  falsehoods  in  the  American  papers, 
which  never  loses  its  influence  on  the  American 
mind. 


t 


A  SLEIGHING  PARTY. 


Ill 


February  12th.  —  Notwithstandinfif  a  slight  fall  of 
white  rain,  Lord  Monck  had  a  sleighing  party  to 
Lorette,  an  Indian  village,  where  we  repaired  in 
great  force,  ladies  and  gentlemen,  furred  and  muffed, 
and  enjoyed  ourselves  greatly,  lunching  in  a  very 
pleasant  rustic  sort  of  auberge,  half  buried  in  the  snow. 
These  sleighing  parties  render  a  Canadian  winter 
tolerable,  and  there  is  a  certain  degree  of  "  chance 
of  being  lost"  which  commends  them  to  the  adven- 
turous and  forms  a  theme  for  many  small  stories. 
On  our  coming  home,  we  had  nigh  experienced  one 
of  these  mild  adventurcL,  for  the  snow  fell  again  and 
obscured  the  face  of  the  country,  —  a  very  white  and 
well-washed  face  indeed,  with  no  remarkable  feat- 
ures in  it,  —  and  it  was  by  chance  we  got  on  the 
track  at  a  certain  turn  in  the  road,  which  was  only 
marked  out  by  the  summits  of  the  submerged  fences 
and  hedges  peering  over  the  drift,  and  looking  un- 
commonly like  each  other  all  over  the  country. 
This  little  experience  of  travel  rather  dispelled  no- 
tions I  had  of  the  great  practicability  of  a  winter 
campaign,  for  it  would  be  quite  impossible  to  move 
guns  and  troops  with  certainty  in  a  country  where 
all  movements  depended  on  the  snow  not  falling,  in 
opposition  to  the  probability  that  it  would  do  so. 

The  officers  of  the  60th  Rifles  entertained  His 
Excellency  at  dinner  in  the  evening,  and  I  had  the 
honor  of  being  invited  to  meet  him.  The  entertain- 
ment took  place  in  the  mess-room  of  the  citadel. 
Little  more  than  a  century  ago,  M.  de  Montcalm 
may  have  been  dining  on  the  same  spot  with  the 
regiment  of  Musketeers  of  Guienne.  Who  may 
dine  there  in  1962  ?  The  evening  was  ended  at  a 
"  calico  "  ball  for  the  benefit  of  the  poor  of  the  city, 
which  was  attended  by  the  townspeople  only,  the 
ladies  being  dressed  in  calico,  which  was  afterwards, 
I  believe,  with  the  receipts,  distributed  to  the  indi- 
gent. 

February  IWi.  —  Accompanied  Mr.  Bernard,  who 


#'R 


112 


CANADA. 


5 


kindly  placed  his  knowledge  and  good  offices  at  my 
disposal,  to  see  some  of  the  lions  of  the  city ;  and, 
thus  ably  conducted,  I  visited  the  Parliament  Houses, 
the  Library,  the  Ursuline  Convent,  the  Rink,  and 
many  other  places  ;  I  dined  in  the  evening  with  Mr. 
Gait,  the  Finance  Minister,  whom  I  had  the  pleas- 
ure of  meeting  at  Washington  some  time  before. 
Mr.  Cartier,  the  head  of  the  Administration,  and 
nearly  all  the  Ministers,  were  present.  Afterwards 
attended  a  ball  at  Mr.  Cauchon's,  one  of  Mr.  Gait's 
colleagues,  which  was  an  assemblage  of  the  Slite  of 
the  old  French  society  of  the  place.  My  compan- 
ions left  me  to-day  for  England,  where  one  was 
anxious  to  take  his  seat  on  the  opening  of  Parlia- 
ment, and  the  other  went  with  him,  I  suppose,  for 
companionship's  sake. 


i 


ENGLISH  OFFICERS  IN  THE  STATES. 


113 


CHAPTER  IX. 

Canadian  View  of  the  American  Struggle.  —  English  Officers  in  the  States. 
My  own  Position  in  the  States  and  in  Canada.  —  The  Ursulines  in 
Quebec.  —  General  Montcalm.  —  French  Canadians.  —  Imperial  Hon- 
ors. —  Celts  and  Saxons.  —  Salmon  Fishing.  —  Early  Government  of 
Canada.  —  Past  and  Future. 

Whilst  I  was  in  Quebec  the  American  papers 
ceased  not  to  record  great  Union  successes,  impend- 
ing expeditions,  and,  as  is  their  wont,  to  throw  out 
hints  of  some  inscrutable  woe  conceived  by  the 
head  of  Stanton,  and  to  be  wrought  by  the  arm  of 
McClellan  on  the  South.  "  Jeff.  Davis  going  to 
Texas  or  Mexico  —  The  neck  of  the  rebellion  broken 
— 'Our  young  Napoleon  preparing  for  the  last  grand 
campaign."  Many  of  our  officers  were  very  anxious 
to  visit  the  Federal  armies,  but  the  tone  of  the 
Northern  press  was  so  exceedingly  virulent  and  in- 
sulting toward  Englishmen,  that  the  authorities, 
mistaking  their  license  for  the  real  opinion  of  Ameri- 
cans, discouraged  applications  for  leave  as  much  as 
possible.  This  was  to  be  regretted ;  the  more  so 
that  those  officers  who  went  from  Canada  to  the 
States  were  not  provided  with  any  official  letters, 
and  were,  indeed,  in  some  instances,  misguided  so 
far  as  to  conceal  their  military  character.  It  could 
not  but  have  been  most  useful  to  our  officers  to  have 
been  enabled  to  take  fair  measure  of  the  system  and 
capability  of  an  American  army,  North  or  South ; 
to  have  formed  an  estimate  of  their  generals  and  of 
the  value  of  their  several  arms  —  cavalry,  artillery, 
and  infantry,  each  of  which  presented  conspicuous 
examples  of  what  to  avoid,  more  especially  the  first, 
whilst  the  second  had  peculiar  features  worthy  of 
study,  and  the  third  was  a  very  wonderful  illustra- 
tion of  the  volunteer  principle. 


::^].'! 


i    ■  i 

h. 


1 

Sr''l«l 

.^'1 

^    III 

r!MiH 

^  : 


114 


CANADA. 


When  I  represented  the  importance  of  sending 
officers  to  the  armies  for  the  special  purpose  of  exam- 
ining and  reporting  on  their  condition,  I  was  met  by 
the  reply  that  it  would  be  a  violation  of  neutrality  to 
dispatch  commissioners  to  the  Federal  army,  unlesa 
similar  officers  were  sent  to  the  Confederate  head- 
quarters ;  and  that  it  would  not  be  possible  to  adopt 
the  latter  step,  as  the  Washington  Government 
would  not  grant  them  leave  to  go  through  the  lines, 
and  would  resent  the  proposal.  When  some  officers 
were  at  last  dispatched  with  an  official  sanction  to 
the  army  at  Yorktown,  they  made  their  appearance 
in  a  forlorn,  destitute,  and  helpless  condition,  which 
made  their  companions  in  arms  blush  for  them. 

For  myself,  I  had  every  reason  to  believe  that  no 
objection  would  be  made  to  my  accompanying  the 
army  under  General  McClellan.  Several  senators 
who  had  given  me  their  good  wishes,  were  most  de- 
sirous that  I  should  be  able  to  set  off  an  account  of 
a  victory  against  the  narrative  of  the  retreat  from 
Bull  Run.  Although  I  had  been  recovering  a  little 
from  the  effects  of  the  ludicrous  and  malignant  false- 
hoods circulated  against  me  up  to  the  Trent  affair,  I 
was  tres  mal  vu  in  some  quarters  in  Washington,  and 
of  course  I  was  included  in  the  general  outburst 
against  all  British  subjects  with  which  the  surrender 
of  Mason  and  Slidell  was  accompanied. 

In  Canada  I  had  recovered  health  and  spirits; 
nay,  more  —  some  small  shreds  of  popularity  in 
the  States.  The  secretaries  of  literary  institutions 
renewed  their  requests  for  lectures,  the  autograph 
hunters  sought  the  post-office  once  more  with  their 
flattering  though  ill-spelt  missives ;.  but  there  was  no 
inducement  to  return  to  the  States  till  the  army  of 
McClellan  was  actually  about  to  take  the  field.  The 
exploits  of  the  army  of  the  West  had,  indeed,  at- 
tracted my  eyes  in  that  direction.  The  capture  of 
Fort  Henry  and  Fort  Donelson  promised  well  for  its 
future  career,  but  if  I  travelled  so  far  out  of  my  way 


}] 


PUBLIC  BUILDINGS. 


115 


I  should  have  lost  my  chance  of  seeing  the  most 
brilliant  and  important  campaign.  The  chief  interest 
was  certainly  concentrated  on  the  Potomac,  and  in 
the  operations  against  Richmond.  The  West  was 
far  away,  and  it  would  have  been  a  chance  against 
my  letters  reaching  home  so  as  to  anticipate  the  ex- 
aggerated illusions  of  the  New  York  journals.  And 
so  I  quietly  waited  and  watched  till  the  news  from 
the  States  became  so  triumphant  and  decided  that 
it  behooved  me  to  return,  lest  some  important  move- 
ment should  take  place  on  the  Potomac.  As  I  could 
not  be  with  more  than  one  army,  I  then  resolved  to 
follow  the  fortunes  of  McClellan's  great  host,  which 
indeed  was  regarded  by  Americans  themselves  with 
the  greatest  anxiety.  And  so,  after  a  few  days,  I 
set  about  leaving  cards  and  paying  farewell  visits  to 
those  who  had  so  kindly  entreated  me  in  the  City 
of  the  Strait. 

The  learned  institutions,  the  libraries,  the  machin- 
ery of  education,  the  various  literary  and  scientific 
associations,  and  the  admirable  seminaries  of  Que- 
bec, are  most  creditable  to  the  community ;  they 
would  place  that  city  on  a  level  with  some  of  the 
most  learned  of  European  cities  of  far  greater  an- 
tiquity ;  and  the  public  spirit  and  intelligence  of  its 
citizens  have  been  fully  evinced  in  the  aid  and  sup- 
port they  have  rendered  to  institutions  designed  for 
the  spread  of  knowledge. 

The  public  buildings  have  also  the  stamp  of  re- 
spectable antiquity  upon  them  ;  none  of  them  possess 
any  considerable  architectural  merits,  but  several  are 
exceedingly  interesting.  Constant  fires  have  proved 
nearly  ruinous  to  the  buildings  erected  by  the  orig- 
inal settlers;  and  those  which  have  been  subse- 
quently built  are  not  remarkable  for  beauty  —  in- 
deed, I  may  say  that  the  Laval  University  is  one  of 
the  plainest  buildings  it  has  ever  been  my  lot  to  be- 
hold. 

On  all  sides  it  is  admitted  that  the  nuns  of  the 


•  r 


ui 


ri  :' 


116 


CANADA. 


Ursuline  Convent  have  conferred  the  greatest  benefit 
upon  the  city  by  their  unceasing  devotion  to  the 
task  of  education.  Many  neople  of  respectability  — 
Protestants  as  well  as  Catholics  —  send  their  children 
to  be  educated  by  these  excellent  women,  represent- 
ing the  system  inaugurated  more  than  200  years  ago 
by  Madeleine  de  Chauvigny,  who,  moved  by  grief 
for  the  loss  of  her  husband  to  devote  herself  to 
Heaven,  and  to  the  spread  of  the  Christian  faith, 
sailed  forth  from  France,  and,  landing  at  Quebec, 
established  schools  for  the  Indian  girls  to  learn  the 
faith  of  the  white  race,  which  was  destined  to  destroy 
their  own. 

The  Ursuline  Convent  is  a  massive  building,  ugly 
as  most  convents  of  modern  date  are,  standing 
amidts  the  houses  of  the  city.  The  day  I  visited  it 
there  were  no  means  of  seeing  the  schools,  and  I  was 
obliged  to  be  content  with  a  sight  of  the  chapel  in- 
stead. On  ringing  the  bell  by  the  side  of  a  massive 
iro»» -bound  door,  I  was  admitted  to  the  front  of  a 
grille^  through  which  I  conveyed  my  wishes  to  the 
unseen  lady  who  demanded  the  purport  of  my  visit ; 
and,  after  a  short  delay,  the  clergyman  attached  to 
the  service  of  the  church  was  ready,  and  an  old 
Swiss  portress  conducted  me  to  the  entrance  of  the 
chapel,  which  is  of  large  size,  of  no  pretensions  to 
architect  ral  beauty,  and  of  little  interest  to  me  for 
anything  but  the  fact  that  within  its  walls  lie  the 
bones  of  Montcalm. 

The  Ursulines,  however,  are  of  opinion  that  they 
have  got  a  collection  of  paintings  of  merit,  and  I  was 
called  upon  to  admire  some  extraordinary  specimens 
of  art  very  nearly  approaching  the  class  denominated 
daubs,  which  were  not  recommended  even  by  an- 
tiquity. Although  the  priest  bore  a  pure  Irish  pat- 
ronymic, he  had  never  been  in  the  British  Isles,  hav- 
ing been  educated  in  France,  where  he  was  born, 
whence  he  came  out  to  Canada  in  the  course  of  his 
ministry.     He  was  an  agreeable,  intelligent,  gentle- 


MONTCALM. 


117 


%f-. 


manly  man,  but  he  had  evidently  no  faith  in  the 
pictures,  and  probably  not  much  greater  in  some 
other  remarkable  decorations  exhibited  within  the 
holy  walls.  The  altar-piece  aiid  two  or  tliree  sub- 
jects belonging  probably  to  the  old  convent,  rescued 
the  collection  from  entire  condemnation. 

On  the  wall  of  the  chapel,  on  the  left-hand  side 
fjom  the  entrance,  there  is  a  marble  slab,  on  which 
are  engraved  the  following  words:  "  Honneur  a 
Montcalm!  Le  destin  en  lui  derobant  la  victoire  I'a 
recompensd  par  uiie  mort  glorieuse!  "  The  graceful 
words  are  due  to  Lord  Aylmer.  Montcalm  received 
his  death-wound  from  a  ball  fired  by  the  only  piece 
of  artillery  which  we  could  get  up  the  heights ;  but 
like  his  great  rival  and  conqueror  he  was  wounded 
in  the  fight  by  a  musket-shot  at  a  comparatively 
early  stage  of  the  battle.  Like  Wolfe,  too,  Montcalm 
loved  literature  :  "  dgalement  propre  aux  batailles  et 
aux  academies,  son  d<^sir  dtait  d'unir  aux  lauriers  de 
Mars  les  palmes  de  Minerve." 

The  following  is  a  translation  of  the  inscription 
and  epitaph  written  by  the  Academy  of  Inscriptions 
and  Belles  Lettres  of  Paris  in  1761,  and  inscribed  on 
a  monument  which  that  body  had  designed  to  erect 
in  Quebec,  but  which  never  reached  that  city,  the 
vessel  on  which  it  had  been  embarked  having  been 
lost  at  sea  :  —  . 

"  Here  Lieth 

In  either  hemisphere  to  live  forever, 

LEWIS  JOSEPH  DE  MONTCALM  GOZON, 

Marquis  of  St.  v^eran,  Baron  of  Gabriac, 

Commander  of  the  Order  of  St.  Lewis, 

Lieutenant-General  of  the  French  army ; 

not  less  an  excellent  citizen  than  soldier, 

who  knew  no  desire  but  that  of 

TRUE  glory; 

Happy  in  a  natural  genius,  improved  by  literature  ; 

Having  gone  through  the  several  steps  of  military  honors 

with  an  uninterrupted  lustre  ; 

skilled  in  all  the  arts  of  war, 

the  juncture  of  the  times  and  the  crisis  of  danger ; 

6* 


.  :■!, 


V..(  1 


II 


118 


CANADA, 


m  ■  I. 


In  Italy,  in  Bohemia,  in  Germany, 

an  itulefatijjahlo  general : 

IIo  80  di3ehnr«reil  his  important  trusts, 

That  he  seemed  always  eciual  to  still  jireatcr. 

At  len^^th,.  grown  bright  with  perils, 

sent  to  secure  the  province  of  Canadai 

with  a  handful  of  men, 

ho  more  than  once  repulsed  the  enemy's  forces, 

and  made  himself  master  of  their  forts, 

replete  with  troops  and  ammunition. 

Inured  to  cold,  hunger,  watching,  and  labors, 

unmindful  of  himself, 

he  hfid  no  sensation  but  for  his  soldiers : 

An  enemy  with  the  fiercest  impetuosity  ; 

a  victor  with  the  tenderest  humanity  ; 

adverse  fortune  he  compensated  with  valor ; 

the  want  of  strength  with  skill  and  activity  ; 

and,  with  his  counsel  and  support, 

for  four  years  protracted  the  impending 

fate  of  the  colony. 

Having,  with  various  artifices, 

long  baffled  a  great  army, 

headed  by  an  expert  and  intrepid  commander, 

and  a  fleet  furnished  with  all  warlike  stores, 

compelled  at  length  to  an  engagement, 

he  fell  —  in  the  first  rank  —  in  the  first  onset, 

warm  with  those  hopes  of  religion 

which  he  had  always  cherished  ; 

to  the  inexpressible  loss  of  his  own  army, 

and  not  without  the  regret  of  the  enemy's, 

XIV.  Se-.tember,  A.  D.  MDCCLIX. 

Of  his  age,  XLVIII. 

His  weeping  countrymen 

deposited  the  remains  of  their  excellent  General-  in  a  grave 

which  a  fallen  bomb  in  bursting  had  excavated  for  him, 
recommending  them  to  the  generous  faith  of  their  enemies." 

Had  his  counsel  been  taken  by  de  Vaudreuil,  we 
never  could  have  occupied  Point  Levi,  and  in  all 
probability  the  expedition  to  Quebec  would  have 
failed. 

There  is  something  exceedingly  touching  in  the 
death  of  the  two  generals  in  the  same  battle.  My 
guide,  however,  was  more  interested  in  calling  my 
attention  to  the  ornaments  of  the  altar,  and  to  a 
skull,  which  he  assured  me  was  that  of  Montcalm. 


i!, 


f"  l\ 


^rave 

him, 

emies." 

Jil,  we 

in   all 

I  have 

n  the 
■  My 
'g  my 
I  to  a 
Im. 


THE  FRENCH  CANADIANS.  119 

»»Thronj?h  o.vh  Iftck-lnsfrc  cycloss  hole, 
Tho  gay  nn-css  of  wisdom  ami  of  wit. 
And  passion's  host  that  never  brook'd  control,' 

was  seen  filled  with  dust,  and  the  jiricst  held  in  his 
hand,  like  a  cricket-ball,  the  home  of  the  subtle  intel- 
lect of  the  man  who  raised  to  such  a  height  the 
power  of  France  in  the  western  world.  When  tho 
old  Indian  chief  told  Montcalm, — "  Tu  es  petit! 
mais  je  vols  dans  tes  yeux  la  hauteur  du  chene  et  la 
vivacitii  des  yeux  des  aigles,"  how  little  the  politic, 
gallant  Frenchman  ever  thought  his  skull  would  be 
kept  in  a  box  in  a  priest's  cupboard,  and  shown  as  a 
curiosity  to  strangers  from  that  barbarous  Britain. 

I  cannot  say  that  the  priest  succeeded  in  pointing 
out  anything  as  interesting  among  the  pictures  as 
even  the  skull  of  the  Marquis  de  Montcalm. 

So  far  as  I  can  ascertain,  no  Canadian  painter  has 
yet  been  inspired  by  the  faith  and  devotion  which 
wrought  such  miracles  and  wonders  in  medieeval 
Europe,  to  concentrate  his  talents  on  church  pictures. 

There  is  not  much  good  fellowship  between  the 
French  Roman  Catholics  and  their  Irish  co-religion- 
ists ;  and  I  was  told  that  few  of  the  latter  ever  en- 
tered the  chapel  of  the  Ursulines,  though  they  con- 
stitute an  appreciable  proportion  of  the  population. 
The  Canadians,  indeed,  retain  a  good  deal  of  the  old 
French  sentiment,  and  regard  the  Irish  very  much  as 
their  ancestors,  under  St.  Ruth,  looked  on  the  poor 
vassals  of  the  Irish  Jacobins.  The  Irish  are,  however, 
more  energetic  and  restless,  and  do  not  lose  by  com- 
parison with  the  unenterprising  inhabitants. 

The  feelings  and  faith  of  the  French  Canadian 
tend  to  keep  up  all  that  is  French  in  his  nature. 
Small  wonder  that  it  should  be  so.  But  it  may  be 
doubted  whether  he  has  much  sympathy  with  the 
Empire,  though  he  is  proud  of  the  glory  and  renown 
attained  by  the  parent  stock  under  the  "  Great  Gaul " 
who  founded  it. 

In  visiting  the  beautiful  and  well-ordered  Library 


Ml 


120 


CANADA. 


of  the  Houses  of  Parliament,  the  state  of  which  does 
honor  to  the  excellent  curator,  I  observed  several  very 
handsome  volumes  of  the  most  costly  works  marked 
with  the  French  imperial  c'pher.  They  had,  it  ap- 
ptared,  been  presented  to  the  Canadinn  Parliament 
by  the  Emperor  Louis  Napoleon,  and  they  were 
pointed  out  to  me  with  much  pride  and  pleasure; 
but  I  looked  in  vain  for  any  such  outward  and  visi- 
ble sign  of  favor  and  policy  on  the  part  of  the  reign- 
ing House  in  England.  The  conduct  of  PVance 
towards  Canada  in  former  times,  if  not  always  just 
to  the  settlers,  was  indeed  exceedingly  liberal  to  the 
landed  interest ;  on  one  occasion  some  sixteen  coun- 
try gentlemen  were  raised  to  the  French  peerage. 
The  mo  >t  a  Canadian  can  hope  for  now  is  a  barren 
baronetcy  or  the  honors  of  the  Bath.  By  conferring 
on  our  colonies,  dependencies,  and  provinces  very 
liberal  democratic  forms  of  government  institutions, 
and  at  the  same  time  refusing  to  give  the  counter* 
poise  which  an  extension  of  the  aristocratic  system 
to  them  would  bestow,  we  hasten  the  coming  of  the 
day  when  separation  becomes  inevitable.  When 
separation  takes  place,  the  difference  of  institutions 
begets  opposition  of  views  and  of  policy,  distrust, 
and,  finally,  collision. 

One  of  my  New  York  acquaintances,  who  pro- 
fessed to  be  somewhat  of  a  philosopher,  said,  one 
day,  he  was  quite  sure  the  colonies  never  would  have 
revolted,  no  matter  how  high  tea  was  taxed,  if  the 
king  had  made  a  few  of  the  leading  Americans  peers 
of  the  realm.  The  dream  of  an  Imperial  Senate  with 
representatives  from  all  the  portions  of  the  wide- 
spread territories  of  Great  Britain  may  excite  the 
imagination,  but  it  is  not  likely  to  be  ever  realized. 
The  honors  which  have  been  conferred  on  such  men 
as  Sir  Etienne  Tachd  and  Sir  Narcisse  Belleau,  are 
highly  prized,  and  a  more  liberal  bestowal  of  the 
cheap  defence  of  nations  would  do  much  to  gratify 
the  reasonable  ambition  of  the  Canadians. 


ANCIENT  MEMORIES. 


121 


ch  does 
ral  very 
marked 

it  ap- 
lament 
"  were 

asure : 


id 


visi- 


reign- 
France 
ys  just 
to  the 
coun- 
serage. 
barren 
ferring 
5S  very 
Jtions, 
>unter- 
fystem 
of  the 
When 
utions 
strust, 

)  pro- 
1,  one 

have 
if  the 
peers 

with 
wide- 
3  the 
lized. 

men 
1,  are 
■  the 
atify 


That  there  should  be  some  —  and  not  a  little  — 
jealousy  of  foreign  interference  and  usurpation  of 
places,  profits,  and  honors,  by  the  English  families, 
is  not  unnatural.  I  am  not  persuaded  that  it  was 
right  to  hand  over  the  whole  direction  of  the  volunteer 
and  militia  organization  to  British  officers,  who  are 
by  the  many  viften  identified  with  the  last  noisy  ensign 
\<rho  has  been  playing  pranks  in  the  Rue  de  Mon- 
tague. The  remembrances  of  the  old  rebellion  have 
not  altogether  died  out,  but  it  appeared  to  me  that 
the  Canadians  are  a  mild,  tractable  race,  fond  of 
justice,  a  little  too  fond  of  law,  and  quite  content  to 
live  under  any  rule  which  secured  them  equal  rights, 
and  gave  them  facility  for  moderate  litigation  and 
religious  exercises. 

While  I  was  in  Quebec  some  foolish  young  men 
stormed  a  house  under  a  misapprehension  as  to  its 
character.  The  same  thing  might  have  happened  in 
Great  Britain  ;  it  would  have  excited  no  feeling  — 
the  perpetrators  might  have  compounded  for  their 
folly,  or  have  suffered  the  penalty.  Here  the  matter 
was  hushed  up,  and  some  of  the  Canadians  were 
vexed  and  angry.  Provincials  must  necessarily  be 
jealous  of  the  smallest  appearance  of  disrespect  or 
show  of  distinctive  justice  between  the  two  races. 

There  are  very  few  persons  in  England  acquainted 
with  the  many  ancient  and  glorious  memories  which 
endear  Quebec  to  the  French  Canadians.  Jacques 
Cartier  is  to  them  a  greater  discoverer  and  navigator 
than  Captain  Cook  is  to  us,  and  a  long  list  of  names 
thoroughly  French  illustrate  the  early  history  of  the 
city.  De  Frontenac,  Le  Chevalier  de  Levi,  Dam- 
bourges  and  others  are  not  known  to  those  who  are 
well  acquainted  with  Wolfe  and  Montcalm. 

Quebec,  though  doubtless  the  oldest  city  existing 
on  the  continent,  is  in  a  very  different  condition  from 
that  in  which  it  was  for  many  a  year  after  it  was 
founded  by  Champlain,  more  than  two  centuries  and 
a  half  ago.     It  is  quite  delightful,  after  a  sojourn  in 


']\ 


li  VI 


\^  ■ 

I'' 


ill  ;!} 


Hi 


122 


CANADA. 


the  United  States,  to  ramble  through  the  tortuous 
streets,  lined  by  tall  narrow  windowed  houses,  with 
irregular  gables,  even  though  an  air  of  something  like 
decay  has  settled  upon  the  place.  There  is  no  trace 
in  Quebec  of  the  feverish  activity  of  American  cities — 
no  great  hotels  nor  eager  multitudes  thronging  the 
pavements  ;  but  in  summer  the  quays  present  a  most 
animated  appearance,  for  the  noble  waters  of  the  St. 
Lawrence  are  then  laden  with  stately  ships,  and 
traffic  is  carried  on  extensively  in  the  exchange  of  the 
exhaustless  forest-produce  of  the  back  country  for  the 
manufactures  of  Europe. 

The  Indian  squaws  and  their  people  have  well- 
nigh  vanished  from  the  scene,  and  it  would  almost 
seem  as  though  they  were  unfit  to  learn  the  doctrines 
of  Christianity — it  is  certain  they  had  not  qualities  to 
permit  of  their  flourishing  in  the  midst  of  Christians. 
Other  colored  races  brought  in  contact  with  the 
white  man  have  saved  themselves  from  extermination 
by  service ;  but  the  individual  Indian  is  feudatory  to 
no  man  —  he  says  "Ich  Dien"  to  no  created  being. 
The  result  is,  that,  slowly  and  surely,  he  is  driven 
further  and  further  out  into  the  waste,  or  is  caught 
up  in  the  waters  of  civilization,  and  held,  like  the  fly 
in  amber,  as  a  jurious  instance  of  the  incompatibility 
of  one  substance  with  the  surrounding  particles  of 
another.  He  will  never  again  play  a  part  in  any 
contest  which  may  take  place  between  the  British 
and  Americans;  notwithstanding  the  efforts  made  by 
the  Confederates  to  use  the  Southern  Indians  in  the 
present  war,  no  adeqate  results  have  been  obtained 
for  the  trouble.  In  the  War  of  Independence  the 
Indians  served  on  both  sides,  but  the  odium  of 
employing  them  in  the  first  instance  against  the 
colonists  must  undoubtedly  rest  on  the  British  min- 
istry of  the  day. 

Although  the  distance  from  Montreal  to  Quebec, 
taking  ^he  course  of  the  river,  is  but  180  miles,  there 
is  considerable  difl'erence  in  climate.     The  scenery 


v1 


U. 


FRENCH  CANADIANS. 


123 


around  the  capital  of  the  Lower  Province,  and  the 
present  scat  of  Government,  is  more  elevated  and 
picturesque;  but  the  quality  of  the  soil  is  not  so 
favorable  to  agriculture.  The  habitant  is  a  very  dif- 
ferent being  from  the  Scotch  or  English  farmer;  he 
regards  with  aversion  agricultural  implements  of  the 
new  school,  and  woos  the  earth  to  yield  its  fruits  with 
the  most  simple  appliances ;  he  is  stubborn  in  his 
attachment  to  antique  customs,  and  if  he  has  most 
of  the  virtues,  he  assuredly  has  some  of  the  faults 
of  a  purely  rural  agricultural  population. 

The  events  of  the  rebellion  induced  us,  perhaps,  to 
underrate  the  military  capacity  of  the  French  Cana- 
dians, but  they  may  point  with  pride  to  the  deeds  of 
their  ancestors  in  defence  of  their  soil  against 
American  invasion,  and  they  would,  no  doubt, 
maintain  in  the  field  the  reputation  of  the  race  from 
which  they  spring.  The  great  defect  of  the  native  is, 
perhaps,  his  want  of  enterprise.  He  rarely  emigrates 
to  new  scenes  of  labor,  and  even  the  inhabitant  of 
the  town  shrinks  from  an  encounter  with  the  active 
American  or  Anglo-Saxon.  Thus  it  is,  at  the  present 
moment,  that  nearly  all  the  agricultural  and  industrial 
enterprises  of  Lower  Canada  have  originated  with 
or  been  developed  by  persons  of  a  dili'erent  stock. 
Want  of  capital  is  the  great  evil  which  afflicts  the 
inhabitants  of  both  Canadas,  and  even  the  oil-wells 
and  gold  mines  have,  to  a  large  extent,  fallen  into 
th^  hands  of  the  solid  men  of  Boston,  and  of  the 
hard  men  of  New  England;  but  the  Canadians 
would  behave  in  the  face  of  an  enemy  with  the 
spirit,  courage,  and  conduct  which  they  have  ex- 
hibited on  their  own  limited  battle-fields. 

It  would  be  of  little  value,  within  the  limits  of  this 
volume,  to  attempt  a  recapitulation  of  the  principal 
events  of  Canadian  history,  either  in  connection  with 
its  early  founders  or  with  the  English  government; 
but  surely  the  materials  are  not  wanting  for  an 
interesting  record  of  the  struggles  of  the  enterprising 


Hi 


124 


CANADA. 


I 


Europeans  who  contended  so  fiercely  with  barbarous 
races  and  an  inclement  clime  to  found  what  already 
promises  to  be  a  great  nation.  The  savage  has  died 
out,  or  he  has  been  civilized  into  a  degraded  creature 
for  whom  no  place  seems  left  at  the  great  table  of 
nature,  and  the  civilized  man  his  successor  has  learned 
to  control  and  mollify  the  influences  of  climate,  and 
to  extort  from  the  soil  fruits  in  abundance.  But 
Canada  is  by  no  means  as  cold  as  it  has  been  painted, 
or  rather,  it  would  be  more  proper  to  say,  the  cold 
there  is  not  so  intolerable  as  we  think.  It  would 
astonish  many  people  in  this  country  to  learn  that 
the  Northern  States  of  America  suffer  more  from  cold 
than  does  the  vast  frontier  region  of  Canada  which 
borders  on  the  Lakes.  In  Iowa,  for  instance,  the  cold 
is  more  intense  than  at  Montreal.  Grapes  and 
peaches  ripen  on  the  Canadian  shores  of  the  great 
lakes;  plums,  melons,  tomatoes,  and  apples  thrive  and 
grow  to  perfection  in  the  provinces.  As  cultivation 
advances  the  rigor  of  winter  is  appreciably  dimin- 
ished, although  the  farmers,  with  that  customary 
want  of  submission  to  the  will  of  Providence  which 
characterizes  all  people  who  live  in  dependence  on 
the  seasons,  complain  that  the  frost  is  not  as  severe 
as  it  was  in  the  good  old  times,  and  that  they  are 
deprived  of  the  advantages  of  long-enduring  snow 
and  rigid  winters. 

What  glorious  visions  of  shooting  now  and  of 
fishing  in  spring  had  opened  before  me,  if  the  Federal 
army  would  only  stay  quiet !  Not,  indeed,  that  there 
is  much  sport  for  the  rifle  or  fowling-piece  now  left 
in  this  part  of  Canada  in  winter,  except  moose,  for 
which  I  did  not  care  much,  but  that  such  strange 
scenes  could  be  visited  and  described.  In  open 
weather  there  is  a  little  shooting  of  quails,  partridges, 
and  ground  game;  before  winter  sets  in  there  is 
plenty  of  wild  ducks,  but  it  is  in  fishing  that  the 
province  is  most  tempting.  The  Godbout,  uncertain 
as  it  is,  would  tempt  any  fisherman  to  a  pilgrimage — 


SOCIETY  IN  QUEBEC. 


125 


a  river  in  which  one  man,  Captain  Strachan,  played 
and  landed  forty-two  salmon  and  grilse  in  two  half- 
days.  But  then  the  black  flies  and  mosquitoes! 
Well,  of  this  more  hereafter.  Though  little  that 
more  must  be,  as  long  as  there  is  such  a  guide-book 
as  that  of  Dr.  Adamson — ^the  charming,  amiable,  and 
accomplished  gentleman,  in  whom  I  was  rejoiced  to 
recognize  the  type  of  le  vrai  gentilhomme  irlandais  ; 
who  knows  everything  that  ever  was  done  or 
thought  by  Canadian  salmon,  and  is  ever  willing 
to  impart  his  knowledge. 

To  a  young  officer  fresh  from  a  Mediterranean  or 
home  station  —  unless  he  were  at  Aldershot  or  the 
Curragh,  perhaps — Quebec  must  appear  rather  dull. 
He  has  none  of  the  excellent  sporting  for  great  and 
small  game  which  India  affords.  Society  presents 
itself  under  a  new  aspect.  A  people  speaking  a 
different  language  are  not  his  servants,  nor  his  kith 
and  kin,  and  yet  he  must  protect  and  fight  for  them. 
He  has  no  sympathy  with  a  nationality  which  is 
prouder  of  Montcalm  than  of  Wolfe,  and  which 
claims,  nevertheless,  the  lions  and  the  harp  as  ^^  noire 
drapeau.''^  So  if  he  be  *  iwise  and  unreasonable^ 
he  takes  dislikes  and  ascribes  every  inconvenience 
he  endures,  not  to  the  policy  of  the  mother-country 
he  serves,  but  to  the  people  of  the  province. 

I  was  present' one  evening  at  a  ball  given  by  one  of 
the  ministers,  a  French  Canadian,  at  which  there 
was  a  large  assemblage  of  all  the  best  people  in  the 
city,  and  J  was  struck  by  the  absence  of  young 
officers,  although  many  of  higher  rank  were  present. 
A  lady  to  whom  I  mentioned  the  circumstance,  said, 
"  Oh !  they  rarely  come  among  us,  so  we  have  left 
off  asking  them.  If  they  do  come,  they  stand  with 
their  backs  against  the  wall  criticizing  our  style  and 
our  dresses,  and  never  offer  to  dance  till  supper  is 
over,  when  they  vanish."  This  is  by  no  means  uni- 
versally applicable  to  all  societies  or  regiments,  but 
it  is  no  doubt  the  truth  in  some  instances. 


126 


CANADA. 


¥:'  9t 


I  ;... 


u 


'■  r 


One  must  regret  that  the  English  language  was 
not  introduced  into  the  law  courts  and  legislature. 
Experience  proves  that  there  are  no  instruments  so 
powerful  in  sustaining  the  existence  of  a  nationality 
as  the  tongue  and  pen.  The  Canadians  of  to-day 
affect  to  be  French,  more  because  they  speak  a 
French  at  which  Paris  laughs,  than  from  any  real 
sympathy  founded  on  mutual  interests  or  present 
history  between  France  and  Canada.  I  was  assured 
by  one  earnest  Canadian,  that  France  had  never 
forgiven  the  Bourbons  for  the  fault  of  Louis  XV.,  in 
ceding  Canada  to  Great  Britain.  He  had  more 
reason  probably  for  asserting  that,  but  for  the  estab- 
lishment of  our  supremacy  in  1765,  the  rebellion  of 
the  thirteen  colonies  of  North  America  would  not 
have  occurred  when  it  did.  But  the  conquest  by 
Wolfe,  confirmed  by  treaty,  put  an  end  to  most  cruel 
and  barbarous  maasacres,  outrages,  and  petty  border 
wars,  between  the  French  and  English  settlers  and 
their  auxiliary  tribes  of  Indians,  and  if  it  had  been 
attended  or  followed  by  any  wise  and  liberal  acts  of 
government,  must  have  produced  very  great  results 
on  the  tone  and  temper  of  the  Canadian  mind. 

It  would  have  been  wonderful  indeed,  if,  a  century 
ago,  when  our  statute-book  was  written  in  blood, 
when  our  fellow-subjects  at  home  were  under  the 
ban  of  religious  disability,  and  beaten  to  the  earth 
beneath  the  weight  of  penal  enactments,  any  traces 
of  wisdom  had  been  exhibited  in  the  management 
of  a  distant  dependency.  Keeping  alive  the  feel- 
ings of  a  distinct  nationality  by  the  powerful  ma- 
chinery of  different  national  laws  and  customs,  the 
conquerors  ruled  the  province  by  military  law  for 
more  than  ten  long  years ;  but  the  tempest  which 
agitated  the  American  colonies  was  already  felt  in 
the  air.  The  ministry,  anxious  only  to  drain  money 
from  their  distant  dependencies,  were  engaged  in 
devising  taxes,  whilst  the  colonists  prepared  to  vin- 
dicate, by  force  of  arms,  their  great  principle,  that 


I 

LI 


RELIGIOUS  LIBERTY. 


127 


u  * 


%  . 


representation  was  the  basis  of  taxation.  The  two 
Acts  of  1774  were  passed  to  enable  the  government 
to  raise  revenues  for  the  maintenance  of  the  local 
government,  and  for  the  appointment  of  a  council 
of  government,  nominated  by  the  Crown.  By  the 
capitulation  of  Quebec,  the  free  exercise  of  their 
religion  was  accorded  to  the  Canadians.  By  the 
Act  of  1774,  the  Roman  Catholic  Church  was  rec- 
ognized as  established,  and  the  "  Coutume  de  Paris  " 
accepted  as  the  foundation  of  civil  and  equity  ad- 
ministration. 

Is  it  not  strange  that  Great  Britain  should  have 
accorded  such  concessions  jto  Roman  Catholics  and 
colonists,  when  the  penal  system  was  most  rigor- 
ously enforced  in  Ireland  ?  But  is  it  not  stranger 
still,  that  the  people  of  the  American  colonies,  who 
were  about  to  set  themselves  up  as  the  children  and 
the  champions  of  freedom  of  faith  and  conscience, 
should  have  taken  bitter  umbrage  at  those  very  con- 
cessions !  The  Americans  of  the  North  bore  an  ex- 
ceeding animosity  to  the  French  Canadians.  They 
remonstrated  in  fierce,  intolerant,  and  injurious  lan- 
guage with  the  people  of  Great  Britain,  for  the  ces- 
sion of  these  privileges  to  the  Canadians,  and  the 
Continental  Congress  did  not  hesitate  to  say  that 
they  thought  "  Parliament  was  not  authorized  by  the 
constitution  to  establish  a  religion  fraught  with  san- 
guinary and  impious  tenets." 

In  a  strain  of  sublime  impudence,  considering  the 
work  they  were  ready  for,  the  same  Congress  also 
expressed  their  astonishment  that  Parliament  should 
have  consented  to  permit  in  Canada,  "  a  religion  that 
has  deluged  your  island  with  blood,  and  dispersed 
impiety,  bigotry ,  persecution,  murder,  and  rebellion 
through  the  world." 

It  may  be  worth  while  to  notice  the  fact  that  the 
first  notion  of  united  action  on  the  part  of  the  Brit- 
ish North  American  Colonies  may  have  been  devel- 
oped by  the  British  Government,  and  that  the  idea 


m 

i 

128 


CANADA. 


';f :     i 


of  independence  was  suggested  by  the  very  recom- 
mendations to  self-defence  which  came  from  the 
mother-country.  The  Convention  of  Delegates  at 
Albany  in  1754,  which  met  in  consequence  of  the 
advice  tendered  by  the  Home  Government,  adopted 
a  federal  system,  which  contained,  in  effect,  the  germ 
of  the  United  States.  Though  this  and  similar 
propositions  were  not  entertained,  the  growth  of  such 
an  idea  must  have  been  rapid  indeed.  In  the  Brit- 
ish colonial  system  there  was  the  breath  of  life  —  a 
little  fanning,  and  the  whole  body  was  alive  and 
active.  In  the  Canadian  system  there  was  only  the 
animating  spirit  of  dependency  on  France,  and  on  a 
system  in  France,  which  was  perishing  before  the 
sneers  of  the  new  philosophy. 

The  French  Canadians  of  the  present  day,  in  ac- 
cusing the  British  Government  of  a  hundred  years 
ago  of  want  of  liberality  and  foresight  in  the  admin- 
istration of  their  newly  acquired  territory,  are  wil- 
fully blind  to  the  sort  of  government  which  they 
received  from  the  Bourbons.  The  dominion  of  a 
foreign  race,  however,  is  always  galling,  be  it  covered 
ever  so  thickly  with  velvet,  and  all  its  acts  are 
regarded  with  suspicion  and  dislike.  The  conces- 
sions and  liberality  of  the  British  Government  which 
drew  forth  such  indignant  protests  from  the  bigoted 
New  Englanders,  was  ascribed  to  fears  of  Canadian 
revolt,  or  to  a  selfish  desire  to  conciliate  the  good- 
will of  subjects  who  might  become  formidable  ene- 
mies. If  England  lost  the  American  Colonies  be- 
cause she  refused  to  accept  a  principle  which, 
however  sound  and  just,  was  certainly  new  and  not 
accepted  as  of  universal  application,  she  needed  not 
to  apprehend  the  recurrence  of  a  separation,  forcible 
or  peaceable,  of  Canada  on  any  such  grounds.  It  is 
impossible  for  a  country  to  be  held  by  a  more  slender 
cord  ;  and  in  all  but  the  actual  exercise  of  the  sover- 
eign style,  title,  and  attributes,  Canada  is  free  and 
independent.     If  the  sentiment  or  the  nationality  of 


FUTURE  COMBINATIONS. 


129 


^i 


the  Lower  Canadians  ever  induces  them  to  seek  the 
protection  or  rule  of  any  European  State,  they  will 
no  doubt  at  once  conic  into  collision  with  Upper 
Canada  and  the  United  States,  and  we  can  but  pity 
their  infatuation.  If  Upper  Canada  thinks  to  better 
herself  by  separation,  and  union  with  the  Western 
States,  Great  Britrin  assuredly  will  never  hold  her  by 
force.  It  would  be  useless  to  discuss  the  rights  and 
obligations  of  a  sovereignty  and  its  nominal  depen- 
dency 4n  relation  to  mutual  succor  in  time  of  war ; 
but  it  seems  only  fair  that  the  freat  permanent 
works  necessary  for  strategical  purpoc  .j,  and  as  points 
d'appui  for  the  forces  of  the  protecting  military 
power,  should  be  made  and  repaired  and  garrisoned 
at  the  imperial  expense,  whilst  on  the  mass  of  the 
population  must  be  placed  the  task  of  rising  to  de- 
fend their  country  from  invasion,  assisted  by  such 
imperial  troops  as  can  be  spared  from  the  occupation 
of  the  fixed  points  of  defence.  The  Canadians  must 
not  content  themselves  with  the  empty  assertion  that 
if  their  country  should  be  invaded  Great  Britain 
alone  is  attacked.  Let  them  emulate  the  Old  Eng- 
land Colonies,  and  the  conduct  of  their  ancestors  in 
1812.  The  United  States  bear  them  no  good- will ; 
and  as  the  only  power  from  which  Canada  has  any- 
thing to  fear,  the  Americans  would  be  just  as  likely 
to  make  war  against  the  Province  as  against  the 
Empire,  and  trust  to  their  own  impregnability,  ex- 
cept at  sea,  as  a  guarantee  against  any  dangerpus 
consequences. 

The  future  is  beyond  our  ken.  There  are  prophets 
who  long  ago  predicted  the  amalgamation  of  the 
Upper  Province  with  the  West,  and  who  now  find 
greater  hope  for  the  realization  of  their  soothsayings 
in  the  approaching  dissolution  of  the  Federal  States. 
Others  there  are  who  see  at  no  distant  time  the  re- 
establishment  of  a  French  dependency  on  the  north- 
ern portion  of  the  Anglo-Saxon  States,  already 
hemmed  in  on  the  slave  border  by  the  shadowy  out- 


i^ 


130 


CANADA. 


lines  of  an  empire  under  French  protection.  When 
we  see  what  has  taken  place  on  that  continent  within 
the  last  hundred  years,  it  is  not  to  be  said  that  com- 
binations and  occurrences  nnuch  more  wonderful 
will  not  come  to  pass  before  the  present  century 
closes.  The  policy  of  a  State,  as  the  duty  of  an 
individual,  is  to  do  what  is  right  and  leave  the  future 
to  work  out  its  destiny. 


CANADIAN  HOSPITALITY. 


131 


CHAPTER   X. 


Canadian  ITospitality.  — Muffina.  —  Departure  for  the  States.  —  Desertions. 
iMftntreal  a^iiin.  —  Southerners  in  Montreal. —  Drill  and  Snow-Shoes. — 
Winter  Campaigning. —  Snow-Drifts.  —  Military  Discontent. 

Although  my  residence  in  Quebec  was  very 
short,  I  left  the  city  with  regret.  Compared  with 
the  cities  of  the  States,  its  antiquity  is  venerable  and 
its  ways  are  peace ;  but  from  what  I  heard  of  public 
amusement  in  summer  time  I  should  say  that  life 
here  would  be  found  dull,  as  compared  with  exist- 
ence in  a  European  capital,  or  in  a  city  so  vainly 
gay  and  profitably  festive  as  New  York.  There  is 
no  great  wealth  among  the  people,  but  a  moderate 
competency  is  largely  enjoyed,  and  neither  wealth 
nor  poverty  attains  undue  dimensions. 

I  found  at  Quebec  a  very  agreeable  society,  the 
tone  of  feeling  which  prevails  in  a  capital,  the 
utmost  hospitality.  Had  I  had  a  hundred  mouths 
they  would  here  all  have  been  kept  busy.  Invita- 
tions came  in  scores,  and  were  to  be  resisted  with 
difficulty.  Knowing  all  this  I  am  the  more  as- 
tonished at  the  recent  statements  which  I  have 
heard,  that  the  Canadians  have  not  extended  any 
civilities  to  our  officers.  If  so,  a  great  change  must 
have  taken  place.  I  am  not  now  talking  of  sleigh- 
ing parties,  but  of  the  hospitality  of  the  inner  house. 
The  fair  Canadians  may  ha-  e  been  too  kind  in  ac- 
cepting the  name  and  position  of  "  muffins  "  from 
the  young  Britishry ;  but  the  latter  cannot  say  they 
have  suffered  much  in  consequence.  A  muffin  is 
simply  a  lady  who  sits  beside  the  male  occupant  of 
the  sleigh  —  Sola  cum  solo^  "  and  all  the  rest  is 
leather  and  prunella." 


132 


CANADA. 


: 

I-'  r 

m 


■|:^ 


The  social  system  is  intended  rather  for  the  com- 
fort* of  the  inner  life,  and  for  the  development  of 
domestic  happiness,  than  for  such  external  glare  and 
glitter  as  Broadway  delights  in,  or  for  such  unsouri  ' 
social  relations  as  mark  the  America  of  hotels.  The 
great  artists  who  adorn  the  drama  or  the  lyric  stage 
can  rarely  be  bribed  sufficiently  high  to  visit  these 
northern  regions  ;  but  I  doubt  whether  there  is  not  a 
better  taste  in  art  among  the  people  of  Quebec  than 
there  is  to  be  found  in  most  cities  of  the  same  size 
in  the  United  States. 

On  a  gloomy  winter  evening  I  was  once  more 
battling  with  the  ice  on  the  St.  Lawrence ;  and,  after 
a  long  passage,  left  Point  Levi  for  Montreal. 

A  weary  life-long  night  it  seemed,  and  a  still 
wearier  day  in  the  train.  It  was  close  upon  twenty- 
one  hours  of  stuffy,  foodless  travel,  ere  we  arrived  at 
Montreal.  Nor  can  I  remember  anything  worth  re- 
cording of  all  that  linked  weariness,  long  drawn  out, 
except  that,  halting  at  a  roadside  station  in  the  night, 
I  came  on  a  detachment  of  the  Scots  Fusilier  Guards, 
who  had  come  up  from  Riviere  du  Loup,  after  their 
passage  in  sleighs  over  the  snows  of  New  Brunswick, 
and  were  in  high  spirits,  looking  very  red  in  the  face, 
and  bulky  in  comparison  with  the  lean  habitans, 
"  Misthress,"  quoth  one  of  them  to  the  woman  at  the 
bar,  "  wad  ye  gi'e  me  a  dhrap  av  whuskie  ?  "  The 
Hebe  complied  with  this  request,  and  for  some  very 
small  pecuniary  consideration  filled  him  out  nearly  a 
tumblerful  of  the  dreadful  preparation  known  in  the 
States  as  "  Fortyrod."  The  soldier  tasted  it,  blinked 
his  eyes,  squeezed  them  close,  pursed  up  his  lips, 
smacked  them,  gave  a  short  watery  cough,  smelt  the 
mixture,  and,  looking  at  his  comrades,  exclaimed, 
"My  Gude !  Hech!  I'd  jist  as  soon  face  a  charge 
of  baynets."  After  that  proem  I  was  prepared  to 
see  the  hardy  warrior  eject  the  fiuid,  but  he  proceeded 
to  a  most  inconsequent  act;  for,  nodding  his. head, 
he  said,  "Sae,  here 's  t'  ye,  my  lads,"  and  tossed  down 
the  fire-water  incontinent. 


RETURN  TO  MONTREAL. 


133 


There  were  several  companies  of  H.  M.'s  63d  Regi- 
ment in  the  train,  also  going  up  to  JNIontrcal.  Jt  did 
not  escape  me  that  at  the  station  pi(  kets  were  look- 
ing sharply  out  for  intending  deserters,  who  might 
have  cut  away  in  the  darkness ;  and  I  was  told,  and 
felt  inclined  to  believe  it  might  be  worth  their  while, 
that  there  were  Yankee  crimps  lying  in  wait  at  all 
the  stations  to  help  the  deserters  across  the  frontier, 
if  they  could  induce  them  to  leave  their  colors.  The 
anxiety  and  annoyance  caused  by  desertion,  and  by 
the  chance  of  it,  add  to  the  dissatisfaction  which  is 
now  expressed  in  our  army  in  Canada ;  but  I  must 
say  I  cannot  quite  sympathize  with  the  violence  and 
exaggeration  in  which  that  dislike  finds  vent. 

Captains  of  companies  sulTer  losses,  but  in  many 
instances  they  have  only  themselves  to  blame.  The 
men,  seduced  by  high  pay,  either  in  the  States  or  as 
farm-laborers  in  Canada,  are  seized  with  an  irresist- 
ible desire  to  quit  the  service  abruptly,  "  without 
leave,"  and  resort  to  ingenious  artifices  to  escape. 
Sometimes  a  whole  guard  will  march  off  bodily,  non- 
commissioned officers  and  all ;  occasionally  one  of 
the  number  will  submit  to  be  handcuffed,  and  will 
be  marched  by  his  comrades  through  the  post  as  a 
deserter,  or  a  man  will  put  on  a  sergeant's  jacket 
or  sew  chevrons  on  his  coat-sleeve,  and  march  off 
his  party  as  if  they  were  going  out  on  picket  or  pa- 
trol duty.  Such  artifices  cannot  always  be  success- 
fully encountered,  but  they  are  to  be  met  to  some 
extent  by  increased  vigilance. 

I  need  not  say  that  it  was  with  satisfaction  I  ex- 
changed my  railway  van  for  a  comfortable  room  in 
the  house  of  Mr.  Rose  at  Montreal.  The  news  of  an 
immediate  advance  of  the  army  of  the  Potomac 
which  had  been  received  from  New  York  turned  out 
to  be  untrue ;  no  immediate  hurry  was  there  need 
for  to  go  down  to  i;he  seat  of  war.  I  dined  at  the 
club, .where  we  had  a  very  agreeable  party,  enlivened 
by  the  fervent  conversation  of  some  Southern  gentle- 

7 


r 


134 


CANADA. 


men  of  the  little  colony  of  refugees  which  finds  shelter 
in  Montreal  under  the  British  flag.  There  is  some 
work  of  Nemesis  in  the  condition  of  these  gentle- 
men. H«re  are  Charleston  people,  who  claimed  the 
right  to  imprison  British  subjects  because  they  had 
dark  skins,  now  taking  refuge  under  the  British  flag, 
from  the  exercise  of  the  very  power  which  enabled 
them  to  maintain  their  claim,  and  apologizing  to 
Englishmn.  for  the  peculiar  institution  on  the  ground 
that  they  treated  their  niggers  better  than  the  Yan- 
kees do. 

The  snow  again  falling,  and  the  day  cold.  On  the 
Sunday  after  my  arrival,  I  walked  into  town  in  moc- 
casons,  and  attended  service  in  Christ  Church,  where 
the  ritual  was  in  close  imitation  of  the  cathedral 
formula  at  home.  I  saw  a  party  of  the  Guards 
marched  to  church,  who  had  an  air  of  profound  dis- 
content-on their  manly  features.  Some  Canadians 
near  me  evidently  regarded  them  as  hardened  here- 
tics going  to  a  place  of  punishment,  and  at  the  same 
time  deserving  it  as  foreign  mercenaries;  but  the 
Guards  certainly  did  not  seem  to  care  one  farthing 
for  their  opinion,  if  they  understood  the  expression 
of  it.  The  building  is  very  handsome ;  but,  in  spite 
of  the  cold  outside,  I  found  the  atmosphere  unbear- 
able, owing  to  the  stoves,  iron  pipes,  or  some  other 
undesirable  calorific  apparatus.  The  sermon  was 
respectable  and  frigid. 

I  spent  the  next  day  visiting  the  remarkable  places 
and  persons  passed  over  in  Montreal  on  my  last  brief 
visit.  In  the  evening  I  dined  with  Colonel  Kelly  and 
H.  M.'s  47th  Regiment,  who  entertained  Sir  Fen- 
wick  Williams  and  the  ofHcers  of  the  Guards  then 
in  garrison,  and  on  the  following  morning  at  9  o'clock 
I  drove  over  to  the  Barracks  to  see  a  drill  of  the  regi- 
ment on  the  St.  Lawrence  in  snow-shoes.  Sir  Fen- 
wick  Williams  and  some  staff"  officers  were  on  the 
ground.  The  regiment  was  admirably  handled  by 
Colonel  Kelly,  and  the  scene  was  very  novel  and 


WINTER  CAMPAIGNING. 


135 


;rmon  was 


amusing.  The  regiment  was  in  excellent  condition  : 
the  men  seemed  rather  to  like  the  fun  with  the  snow- 
shoes,  and  when  skirmishers  were  thrown  out  or 
called  in  at  the  double,  there  was  certainty  of  a  fall 
or  two  from  unlucky  privates  tripping  up  in  their 
shoes  and  tumbling  in  the  snow,  which  flew  like 
puffs  of  musketry.  Fresh  from  parades  of  volun- 
teers I  felt  the  force  of  Lord  Clyde's  maxim,  —  "  The 
first  duty  of  a  soldier  is  to  obey  "  —  as  I  looked  at 
the  measured  tread  even  at  the  quickest,  and  the 
alert,  agile  formations  of  the  men  to  whom  discipline 
was  the  whole  scope  of  military  intellect.  There 
was,  I  thought,  in  that  complex  machine  of  many 
parts,  but  of  only  one  animating,  moving  power, 
what  would  be  cheaply  bought  by  the  United  States 
by  many  hundreds  of  thousands  of  dollars  for  the 
purposes  of  war,  though  man  to  man  one  of  their 
regiments  might  be  more  intelligent,  and  quite  as 
capable  of  deeds  of  valor  as  the  old  47th,  of  whom 
indeed  not  many  had  the  Crimean  medal,  though  the 
campaign  is  now  but  a  few  years  old. 

In  the  evening  I  dined  with  the  Commander-in- 
Chief,  Sir  Fenwick  Williams,  and  met  Mr.  Cartier, 
Mr.  Gait,  and  Mr.  Rose. 

The  letters  from  England  which  came  by  every 
mail  showed  that  the  position  was  not  much  under- 
stood, as  it  was  believed  there  would  be  a  speedy 
movement  of  the  army  of  the  Potomac,  which  I  knew 
to  be  buried  in  mud.  The  American  papers  of  course 
deluded  their  readers  by  constant  assurances  that 
McClellan  was  about  to  move  next  week.  It  would 
seem,  after  all,  that  in  new  countries  the  practice  of 
going  into  winter  quarters,  which  prevailed  among 
sixteenth  and  seventeenth  century  generals,  was 
founded  on  good  reason ;  but  that  as  the  land  be- 
came better  drained,  and  the  roads  were  improved 
by  civilization  and  populations,  the  necessity  for  in- 
action was  diminished.  Napoleon  astonished  Europe 
by  some  wonderful  escapades  in  the  field  ;  but  even 


1. 


136 


CANADA. 


in  the  Peninsula  the  British  suffered  greatly  in  winter 
movements.  In  the  old  French  war,  operations  in 
Canada  were  usually  over  in  August  or  early  in 
September;  but  the  Americans,  in  their  bold  and 
skilful  campaign  of  1775,  commenced  their  invasion 
or  dash  late  in  the  year  —  managed  so  well  that  they 
broke  in  almost  simultaneously  at  Montreal  and  Que- 
bec, on  the  British,  who  had  only  one  regular  regi- 
ment in  the  Provinces,  in  November  —  and  it  was 
on  the  last  day  of  the  year  that  Montgomery  and 
Arnold  made  their  brilliant  and  unsuccessful  attempt 
to  carry  the  citadel  by  escalade. 

Again,  in  1812,  it  was  as  late  as  October  before 
the  Americans  opened  their  campaign  on  the  Niagara 
frontier  ;  and  it  was  about  the  middle  of  November 
when  they  directed  their  ill-managed  and  abortive 
demonstration  against  Montreal.  They  again  moved 
in  January,  1813,  and  several  actions  took  place  in 
the  early  months  of  the  year,  nor  did  the  approach 
of  winter  drive  the  contending  parties  from  the 
field ;  and  a  good  deal  of  sharp  fighting  took  place 
in  December.  In  the  following  year  the  Americans 
began  the  offensive  at  a  later  period,  though  the 
corps  intended  to  operate  against  the  Montreal  dis- 
trict was  in  motion  in  the  first  week  of  March.  Our 
defeat  at  Plattsburg  occurred  on  September  11th. 
The  Americans  make  much  of  it  —  with  great  jus- 
tice. They  defeated  the  best  regiments  of  an  army 
which  had  proved  itself,  in  face  of  the  picked  troops 
of  Napoleon,  the  first  in  Europe.  When  winter  is 
well  established  in  these  high  latitudes,  perhaps  it  is, 
under  ordinary  circumstances,  more  favorable  to  mil- 
itar}'  operations  than  it  is  in  lower  latitudes,  where 
tremendous  rains  alternate  with  heavy  snow-storms, 
which  do  not  form  permanent  deposits  over  which  to 
move  men  or  guns. 

On  the  following  day  I  dined  with  Mr.  Chamber- 
lain, of  the  "  Montreal  Gazette,"  Mr.  Rose,  Mr. 
Ryland,  Major  Penn,  and  a  number  of  gentlemen 


^ 


SXOW-DKIFTS. 


137 


connected  with  the  Canadian  press,  at  a  famous  old- 
fashioned  English  tavern,  kept  by  an  old-fashioned 
John  Bull  cook,  who  would  have  fainted  outright  at 
the  sight  of  a  vol-au-vent  and  died  of  an  omelette 
glaceey  where  we  had  much  old-fashioned  English 
talk.  On  our  issuing  into  the  outer  world  there  was 
a  snow-fall  going  on,  the  like  of  which  I,  unaccus- 
tomed, had  never  seen  before ;  and  my  voyage  out 
to  Mr.Rose's  was  diversified  by  attempts  of  the  sleigh- 
driver  to  get  over  boundary-walls  and  into  gardens, 
till  we  came  to  a  dead  stop  just  as  the  fall  cleared 
off  a  little,  and  permitted  us  to  get  a  glimpse  of  the 
moon.  But  the  moon  gave  no  assistance,  for  its 
rays  only  lighted  up  great  snow  mounds  and  a  uni- 
versal whiteness,  and  the  road  seemed  as  doubtful  as 
ever.  As  I  was  deliberating  what  was  best  to  be 
done,  a  sleigh-bell  was  heard  jingling  in  the  distance, 
and  the  vehicle  gradually  approached  us.  We  hailed 
the  occupant,  and  I  heard  a  well-known  voice  in  an- 
swer :  it  was  that  of  Colonel  Lysons,  an  inmate  of 
the  same  hospitable  abode  as  that  I  occupied.  Our 
united  efforts  at  last  discovered  the  mansion. 

The  snow-storm  continued  next  day :  the  fall  was 
so  great  that  Lysons,  who  was  bound  to  Quebec  on 
duty  connected  with  the  Militia  Bill,  and  started 
early,  was  compelled  to  return  re  infecia  in  the  morn- 
ing. Towards  the  afternoon  the  storm  ceased,  and 
left  a  thick  outer  garment  over  the  body  of  the  coun- 
try. The  younger  people  of  the  house  considered  the 
occasion  favorable  for  snow-balling,  and  I  was  in- 
cluded in  some  diffusive  arrangements,  very  unfavor- 
able to  literary  composition,  for  the  spread  of  the 
white  artillery,  directed  by  willing  hands  and  unre- 
lenting aim  at  short  range.  I  dined  with  the  artillery 
mess  —  went  afterwards  to  a  ball  given  by  H.  M.'3 
16th  Regiment  at  the  Donegana,  which  is  the  head- 
qua:  ters  of  Secessiondom  —  and  finished  the  evening 
by  a  visit  to  the  house  of  Mr.  Judah,  who  gave  a 
dance  which  was  attended  by  Lord  F.  Paulet  and  a 


!    I 


81  1 
if 


138 


CANADA. 


I'M- 


number  of  soldiers,  and,  above  all,  by  a  lovely  Ameri- 
can, who  created  a  strong  3urrent  in  favor  of  the 
Union,  of  which  she  was  a  stanch  advocate. 

As  already  hinted,  I  have  heard  of  complaints  from 
officers  of  the  Guards  and  other  regiments  that  the 
Canadians  during  the  period  in  question  did  not  treat 
them  with  the  hospitality  for  which  they  were  once 
celebrated.  Of  that  point  I  am  not  well  able  to 
judge;  but  I  must  say,  that  during  the  whole  period 
of  my  stay  in  Canada,  I  never  was  in  any  society  in 
which  I  did  not  see  British  officers,  and  never  knew 
of  their  having  had  reason  to  complain  v."  neglect  till 
lately.  If  there  was  any  want  of  hospitable  civility, 
I  must  think  the  officers  were  in  some  measure  to 
blame  for  it ;  for  among  those  stationed  any  length 
of  time  in  Canada,  rr  who  knew  the  country  in  for- 
mer years,  I  always  i.*-  ird  unreserved  praise  of  those 
Canadians  who  had  the  means  of  entertaining  vis- 
itors. It  must  be  remembered  that  there  are  few 
Canadians  who  are  wealthy  enough  to  give  set  din- 
ners, and  that  the  reserve  which  guards  the  family  of 
the  Frenchman  existed  in  the  times  from  which  his 
descendants  in  Canada  take  their  traditions  and  man- 
ners. Many  people  in  Montreal,  well  inclined  to 
show  every  attention  in  their  power  to  the  officers 
quartered  among  them,  were  deterred  by  the  very 
prestige  of  the  Guards'  social  position  from  offering 
them  ordinary  civility ;  and  by  degrees  in  many  cases 
an  estrangement  grew  up. 

I  saw  nothing  to  account  for  the  discontent  of 
officers  who  were  quartered  at  Montreal,  save  and 
except  the  fact  that  they  were  on  foreign  service,  that 
they  were  not  in  England  or  London  among  their 
friends,  and  that  they  did  not  like  the  people,  —  all 
grounds  which  they  might  unfortunately  allege 
against  any  other  part  of  the  world  in  which  the 
British  army  is  forced  to  serve.  The  subject  is  only 
important,  in  so  far  as  it  exercises  an  influence  over 
the  relations  ^f  the  two  countries ;  a  common  expres- 


^ere  once 


MILITARY  DISCONTENT. 


139 


sion  of  dislike  on  the  part  of  men  who  exercise  a 
great  influence  among  the  most  powerful  classes  in 
this  country  must  increase  any  tendency  to  regard 
with  indifference  the  possession  of  the  great  territory 
which  it  is  my  belief  we  should  seek  to  attach  to  the 
Crown  by  every  possible  legitimate  means,  Professor 
Goldwiii  Smith  and  the  political  economists  of  his 
school  notwithstanding. 

After  a  stay  of  some  days  in  Montreal,  I  received 
iiitelligence  which  rendered  it  necessary  for  me  to 
depart  at  once  for  the  United  States,  and  I  returned 
to  New  York  by  Rouse's  Point,  travelling  night  and 
day.  I  had  seen  enough  of  Canada  to  inspire  me 
with  a  real  regard  for  the  people,  and  a  sincere  inter- 
est in  the  fortunes  of  such  a  magnificent  dependency 
of  the  Crov/n,  and  I  resolved,  as  far  as  in  me  lay,  to 
attract  the  attention  of  the  home  country  to  a  region 
which  offers  so  many  advantages  to  her  children,  and 
promises  one  day  to  be  the  seat  of  flourishing  com- 
munities, if  not  of  a  vast  and  independent  empire. 


■■  i. 


•t 


!•'  .1 


^m 


r 


140 


CANADA. 


y  * 


ii  ! 


ii 


CHAPTER  XI. 

Extent  of  Canada.  —  The  Lakes.  — Canadian  Wealth.  —  Early  History. 
Jncqfles  Cartier.  —  English  and  French  Colonists.  —  Colonial  and  Aca- 
dian Troubles.  —  La  Salle.  — Border  Conflicts.  —  Early  Expeditions.  — 
Invasions  from  New  England.  —  Louisbiir^j  and  Ticonderoga.  —  The 
Colonial  Insurrection.  —  Partition  of  Canada.  —  Projjress  of  I'pper  Can- 
ada. —  France  and  Canada.  — The  American  Invasion.  — Winter  Cam- 
paipjn.  —  New  Orleans  and  Plattsburg.  —  Peace  of  (ihent. — Political 
Controversies.  —  Winter  Communication.  —  Sentiments  of  Hon.  Joseph 
Howe.  —  General  View  of  Imperial  and  Colonial  Relations. 

A  VICTORY  won  not  a  century  ago  gratified  the 
animosities  of  the  American  colonies,  and  added  to 
the  countries  ruled  by  the  Sovereign  of  Great  Britain 
a  tract  of  territory  thrice  the  size  of  his  kingdom. 
From  Labrador  to  the  western  limit  of  Lake  Superior, 
a  line  drawn  east  and  west  within  the  boundaries  of 
Canada,  is  1600  miles  long ;  but  the  breadth  of  the 
country  from  its  Southern  frontiers  to  the  ill-defined 
boundary  on  the  North,  is  but  225  miles.  This  vast 
region  is  divided  into  Upper  and  Lower  Canada. 
The  former  lies  between  long.  40°  and  49°  N.,  and 
lat.  74°  and  117°  W.  The  latter  lies  between  45° 
and  50°  North  and  57°  and  80°  W.  The  three  hun- 
dred and  forty  thousand  square  miles  thus  bounded 
present  every  variety  of  scenery  and  of  soil.  The 
climate  is  mainly  influenced  by  the  relations  of  the 
land  to  the  enormous  inland  seas  and  great  rivers 
which  occupy  such  a  space  in  the  map  of  British 
North  America.  From  Lake  Superior,  which  is 
larger  than  all  Ireland,  flows  the  mighty  stream 
which  feeds  Lake  Huron  by  the  River  St.  Mary. 
Huron  is  nearly  250  miles  long  and  221  miles  broad. 
From  Lake, Huron  the  river  and  lake  of  St.  Clair  lead 
the  flood  into  Lake  Erie,  which  is  280  miles  long  and 
63  miles  broad.     From  lake  Erie  the  current  runs 


I   •  « 


■  I' 


THE  LAKES. 


141 


with  quickening  pace,  till  it  rushes  in  ceaseless  flight 
into  the  fathomless  depths  of  Niagara,  and  whirls 
onward  to  melt  into  the  waters  of  Lake  Ontario. 
The  last  and  smallest  of  these  seas,  Ontario,  is  180 
miles  long  and  50  miles  broad.  The  St.  Lawrence, 
winding  through  many  islands,  emerges  from  its  east- 
ern extremity  and  commences  its  uninterrupted  career 
of  700  miles  to  the  Atlantic.  The  land  of  this  north- 
ern continent  in  fact  reverses  the  part  of  Ocean,  and 
enfolds  sea  after  sea  within  its  arms.  The  water 
blesses  the  land  for  its  protection  ;  it  yields  an  easy 
way  to  the  progress  of  civilization ;  transports  the 
produce  of  the  settler's  labor  to  distant  markets,  and 
lays  open  to  his  enterprise  the  wide-spreading  forests 
and  plains  which,  but  for  them,  would  still  be  the  her- 
itage of  the  Indian  and  of  his  prey.  Among  the  great- 
est proofs  of  enterprise  in  the  world  are  the  canals  by 
which  the  people  living  on  the  shores  of  the  lakes  have 
rendered  navigation  practicable  from  the  sea  to  Lake 
Superior.  The  display  of  the  natural  and  artificial 
products  of  the  far-reaching  lands  watered  by  the  giant 
St.  Lawrence  at  the  Great  Exhibition  of  1862,  came 
to  the  eyes  of  most  of  us  with  a  sort  of  shock.  It  was 
surprising  indeed  to  behold  such  evidences  of  wealth 
given  by  a  dependency  which  was  associated  in  the 
popular  mind  with  frost  and  snow,  with  Niagara, 
Labrador,  and  French  insurrection  —  moose,  mocca- 
sons,  and  Indians.  There  we  saw  an  exuberance  and 
excellence  of  growth  in  timber  and  in  cereals  —  in 
all  kinds  of  agricultural  produce,  combined  with 
prodigious  mineral  riches.  Sir  William  Logan,  as- 
sisted by  the  zealous,  skilful,  and  indefatigable  staff 
of  Canadian  geologists,  showed  what  a  future  Canada 
may  expect  when  capital  and  populadon  combine  to 
disinter  the  treasures  which  now  lie  hid  within  its 
rocky  ribs. 

According  to  Jesuit  Hennepin,  the  name  of  Canada 
furnishes  a  proof  of  an  ignorance  and  deficient  ap- 
preciation of  the  true  value  of  the  country  that  still 

7* 


(1^ 


142 


CANADA. 


!  f-; 


!1! 


if!; 


! 


ill' 


mark  the  workings  of  the  European  mind  in  refer- 
ence to  the  resources  of  Canada.  According  to  him, 
the  word  Canada  was  derived  from  a  corruption  of 
the  Spanish  words  Capo  da  Nada,  or  Cape  of  Noth- 
ing, which  they  gave  to  the  scene  of  their  early  dis- 
coveries when,  under  a  conviction  of  its  utter  barren- 
ness and  inutility,  they  were  about  abandoning  it  in 
disgust.  The  derivation  may  be  well  doubted,  but 
the  implication  may  be  true  enough.  The  main- 
spring of  Spanish,  and  indeed  of  all  European  en- 
terprise in  those  days,  was  the  hope  of  gold,  and 
although  there  is  reason  to  know  that  the  precious 
metal  is  associated  with  others  scarcely  less  valuable 
in  Canada,  of  course  it  was  not  found  lying  in  heaps 
and  blocks  on  the  sea-shore,  and  therefore  the  Span- 
iards concluded  that  it  did  not  exist.  It  has  been 
conjectured,  with  greater  appearance  of  probability, 
that  Canada  is  a  modification  of  the  Spanish  word  sig- 
nifying "  a  passage ; "  because  the  Spaniards  thoug;ht 
they  could  find  a  passage  to  India  through  Canada  ; 
as  others,  with  greater  reason,  believe  there  may  yet 
be  found  a  permanent  practicable  way  to  the  shores 
of  the  Pacific  through  its  wide  expanse  of  lake  and 
mountain. 

The  accounts  of  the  first  discovery  of  Canada,  mea- 
gre as  they  are,  possess  a  romantic  interest  which  is 
never  likely  to  assume  any  very  precise  or  substantial 
form.  Although  Cabot,  who  discovered  Labrador 
and  Hudson's  Bay,  was  the  first  person  who  sug- 
gested or  projected  the  establishment  of  colonies  or 
settlements  in  these  newly  found  regions,  and  Eng- 
lish merchants  actually  established  some  small  colo- 
nies there,  it  is  to  Jacques  Cartier,  of  St.  Malo,  that 
the  credit  of  the  first  real  establishment  of  Europeans 
in  Canada  must  be  assigned.  Cabot  discovered  the 
Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence :  it  was  Cartier  who  found  that 
the  Gulf  was  but  the  mouth  of  a  vast  river ;  and 
who  urged  his  little  craft  among  its  unknown  dan- 
gers till  he  came  to  the  site  of  Quebec.     It  was  no 


mm 


EARLY    HISTORY. 


143 


ordinary  man  who,  having  accomplished  thus  much, 
pressed  onwards  till  he  reached  Hochelaga,  the  site 
of  Montreal.  He  was  impelled  by  the  love  of  gold 
and  precious  stones,  and  believed  that  here  he  had 
found  them,  but  they  were  indeed  only  Lagcnian 
mines.  Cartier,  and  many  another  gallant  sailor, 
found  glittering  mica  and  crystals  on  the  shores  of 
their  new-found  lands,  which  in  their  innocent  faith 
they  believed  to  be  gold  and  diamonds,  and  so  filled 
ship  and  were  off  to  sea  again.  The  failure  of  these 
early  adventures  cast  Canada  into  disfavor  with  those 
who  led  the  enterprise  of  the  East.  Whilst  the  Eng- 
lish merchants  and  navigators  were,  with  uncertain 
steps,  seeking  some  solid  resting-place  on  the  eastern 
shores  of  America  below  the  St.  Lawrence,  Canada 
was  left  in  the  possession  of  the  Indians  —  not  a 
peaceable  possession,  because  the  great  Tribes  were 
as  irreclaimably  belligerent  as  the  Highland  Clans  or 
the  Irish  Septs.  It  is  curious  to  reflect  on  the  fact, 
indeed,  that  little  more  than  two  hundred  years  ago 
the  whole  of  the  vast  region  between  Massachusetts 
and  Hudson's  Bay  was  in  the  hands  of  the  Red  Man. 
But  he  was  then  yielding  ground  rapidly  before  the 
imperious  strangers  who  had  seized  his  shore  farther 
south.  The  merchants  of  Bristol  and  of  London 
turned  their  attention  to  Virginia  before  the  French 
of  St.  Malo  had  well  established  themselves  on  the 
shores  of  the  St.  Lawrence.  Both  English  and  French 
alike  were  encouraged  and  stimulated  in  these  early 
efforts  by  the  Crown.  About  the  time  that  James 
the  First  was  granting  charters  and  framing  corpora- 
tions for  colonies  in  Virginia,  Champlain  was  estab- 
lishing French  settlements  at  Tadousac  and  Quebec, 
in  Nouvelle  France.  The  early  dealings  of  English 
and  French  with  the  natives  are  discreditable  to  both 
nations;  both  fomented  or  availed  themselves  of 
dissensions  among  the  Tribes,  and  when  hostilities 
broke  out,  threw  their  weight  on  one  side  or  the  other. 
Whilst  the  New  England  Puritans  were  encouraging 
themselves  in  the  work  of  destroying  the  Red  Man 


^  ^; 


':j  :  I 


144 


CANADA. 


by  quoting  passages  from  the  Old  Testament,  which 
clearly  showed  how  they  the  chosen  people  of  God 
were  called  upon  to  slay  the  Canaanite,  Champlain, 
with  his  Roman  Catholic  priest/'^  was  quite  as  busy 
in  rooting  out  Iroquois  in  the  njiine  of  Heaven  and 
of  the  Church.  Of  the  two  in\^ilng  races,  indeed, 
the  French  were  the  least  exclusive,  for  they  neither 
burned  nor  banished  Dissenters.  So  great  was  the 
liberality  of  France  in  those  days,  that  Protestant  and 
Roman  Catholic  emigrants  shared  in  the  same  en- 
terprise, and  abode  in  the  same  settlements.  But  the 
Brethren  of  New  Plymouth  took  a  very  limited  view 
of  Christian  fraternization,  and  at  the  very  outset  the 
colonists  of  the  Northern  and  of  the  Southern  States 
were  animated  by  principles  so  opposed  that  even  in 
the  grub  state  they  bit  and  stung  each  other. 

English  and  French  colonists  were  alike  under- 
going the  spasmodic  influences  of  the  jealousy  and 
intrigue  which  usually  preside  over  the  birthplace  of 
colonies,  when  the  operations  of  the  war  which  broke 
out  between  France  and  England  in  1628,  were  ex- 
tended to  those  distant  regions.  The  growing  power 
of  England  at  sea  enabled  her  to  strike  a  tremendous 
blow  at  New  France.  Champlain,  with  all  his  gar- 
rison, was  starved  into  capitulation  by  Sir  David 
Kirke ;  but  on  the  restoration  of  peace  and  of  the 
colony  to  France,  in  1633,  he  returned  to  Canada, 
where  he  died  two  yeais  afterwards.  Champlain, 
with  all  his  faults,  was  undoubtedly  a  man  note- 
worthy, politic,  and  valuable  in  his  time  and  genera- 
tion, and  his  name  will  ever  be  associated  with  the 
early  history  of  the  continent.  Priests  and  nuns  and 
missionaries  after  his  death  swooped  down  on  the 
Indians,  who  began  to  hate  each  other  worse  than 
ever  they  had  done  before,  whilst  at  the  same  time 
they  learned  to  entertain  a  savage  dislike  for  the  race 
which  they  had  welcomed  to  their  shores  so  cour- 
teously and  gently.  Thousands  of  Indians  were 
indeed  converted,  as  it  was  called,  to  Christianity ; 
but  it  was  only  that  they  might  rage  with   greater 


I 


LA  SALLE. 


145 


t,  which 
of  God 
implain, 
as  busy 
ven  and 
,  indeed, 
1  neither 
was  the 
tant  and 
ame  en- 
But  the 
ted  view 
utset  the 
n  States 
even  in 

e  under- 
3usy  and 
place  of 
ch  broke 
vere  ex- 
ig  power 
lendous 
his  gar- 
•  David 
of  the 
anada, 
m  plain, 
n  note- 
Igenera- 
nth  the 
ms  and 
on  the 
5e  than 
\Q  time 
Ihe  race 
cour- 
|s  were 
[ianity ; 
reater 


criKilty  and  fierceness  against  their  brethren.  Mas- 
sacres of  Christians  and  of  converts  by  furious  sav- 
ages fanned  these  unholy  flames.  Little  is  left  of 
either  the  Indians  or  of  their  Christianity  now.  A 
common  animosity  to  the  aborigines  brought  about 
the  first  "  rapprockment "  between  the  French  and 
British  Colonists.  The  New  English  and  the  New 
French  first  met  in  America  to  consider  the  propriety 
of  an  alliance  against  their  Indian  enemies,  which 
should  not  be  broken  by  war  between  the  parent 
countries,  but  the  status  of  the  two  offshoots  of  the 
great  European  rivals  was  very  diiferent.  The 
French  in  Canada  at  one  time  displayed  a  wonder- 
ful amount  of  enterprise,  energy,  and  perseverance 
in  their  dealings  with  the  savages,  which  can  only 
be  appreciated  by  those  who  have  studied  their  early 
records,  but  it  contrasts  strongly  with  the  quiescence 
and  political  folly  of  their  descendants.  Their  early 
explorations  were  charac^.erized  by  a  spirit  worthy 
of  the  countrymen  of  Cartier.  Among  these,  the 
voyage  of  La  Salle  from  Niagara  deserves  to  be 
mentioned,  as  indicative  of  the  highest  qualities  of 
a  traveller.  In  a  little  craft  of  some  sixty  tons,  he 
ascended  the  rapid  river  above  the  Falls  of  Niagara, 
amidst  difficulties  which  we  can  but  little  understand, 
and  gained  the  broad  expanse  of  Lake  Erie ;  thence 
boldly  steering  westward,  he  came  upon  the  narrow 
river  or  strait  of  Detroit,  crossed  the  lucid  waters  of 
Lake  St.  Clair,  and  was  at  last  rewarded  by  the 
grand  discovery  of  Lake  Huron.  Still  boldly  pur- 
suing his  course  westward.  La  Salle  at  last  came  to 
Lake  Michigan,  whence  in  company  with  Father 
Hennepin,  his  Jesuit  historian,  he  undertook  the  feat 
of  penetrating  to  the  head-waters  of  the  Mississippi. 
Nor  did  he  stop  when  he  reached  the  mystic  stream ; 
he  trusted  himself  to  the  mighty  flood,  and  never 
turned  round  or  bated  breath  till  he  floated  out,  2000 
miles  below,  on  the  turbid  waters  of  the  Gulf  of 
Mexico.     Whilst  the  hierarchy  of  France  were  busy 


146 


CANADA. 


i,,%' 


m ' 


founding  bishoprics,  building  churches,  and  esta])li»h- 
ing  seminaries,  the  English,  distracted  by  internal 
convulsions,  left  their  American  colonies  pretty  much 
to  themselves.  France  sent  out  governors,  coun(;il- 
lors,  and  bishops  to  New  France  ;  England  dispatched 
her  Puritans,  adventurers,  younger  sons.  Catholic 
cavaliers,  and  Nonconformists  ;  but  the  natives  were 
sure  to  suffer,  no  matter  in  what  form  the  colony 
was  ruled,  or  of  what  Europeans  it  was  composed. 
Terrible  diseases,  although  known  in  Europe  for  two 
hundred  years  previously,  according  to  contemporary 
writers,  appeared  suddenly,  and  without  European 
communication,  among  the  indigenes^  and  ravaged 
the  miserable  tribes,  already  decimated  by  intestine 
war  and  ruin.  Christians  were  naturally  held  ac- 
countable for  all  the  evil ;  and  for  a  large  part  indeed 
they  were. 

Whilst  James  the  Second  was  making  a  last  stand 
for  his  Crown  against  the  victorious  Dutchman,  La 
Salle,  with  a  patent  of  Governor,  was  sailing  from 
La  Rochelle,  for  the  dependency  of  Louisiana,  which 
now  completed  the  vast  semicircle  over  which  the 
King  of  France  claimed  authority,  and  which  enclos- 
ing the  British  settlements  in  a  belt  from  Newfound- 
land through  the  lakes,  swept  thence  by  the  Ohio 
down  to  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  far  away  to  the  terra 
incognita  under  the  setting  sun.  The  superior  trad- 
ing resources  of  the  Indians  of  the  South,  the 
favorable  conditions  for  the  expansion  of  trade  pos- 
sessed by  the  British  on  the  Hudson  over  the  French, 
who  had  to  struggle  with  longer  frost,  and  the  wintry 
storms  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  and  the  greater  com- 
mercial enterprise  of  the  English  colonists,  nullified 
that  vast  territorial  superiority.  The  French  gov- 
ernors thought,  by  displays  of  vigor  and  violence  to- 
wards the  natives,  to  alter  the  course  of  trade  ;  but 
they  could  not  compete  with  their  neighbors,  and 
quarrels  and  petty  wars  vexed  the  life  of  both 
colonial  systems.    In  1690,  M.  de  Frontenac  launched 


INDIAN   AND  BOKDEli   WARS. 


147 


threr  little  corps  of  invadin*^  sava^ra,  aidvA  and  IihI 
by  French  troops,  against  the  British  settlenieiits  in 
the  Nvw  England  Colonies.  Schenectady  in  New 
York,  Salmon  Falls  in  New  Haiiipshire,  Caseo  in 
Maine,  were  surprised  and  biirned,  and  the  colonists 
were  given  to  the  sword  and  the  scalping-knife.  For 
a  time  the  survivors  of  the  massacre  had  something 
else  to  do  besides  persecuting  each  other  to  death  for 
witchcraft  or  torturing  their  heretics.  They  set  to 
work  to  avenge  their  slaughtered  saints.  Sir  William 
Phipps,  a  native  of  Massachusetts,  led  his  Puritan 
hosts  to  Port  Royal  in  Nova  Scotia,  but  was  obliged 
to  retreat  ingloriously  from  an  attempt  against  Mon- 
treal. His  rival,  De  Frontenac,  had  no  better  fortune 
in  a  projected  attack  by  land  and  sea  against  New 
York.  The  war  which  raged  between  the  colonists 
was  terminated  by  the  Peace  of  Ryswick ;  but  peace 
did  not  last  long,  and  the  declaration  of  war  by 
Great  Britain  against  France  and  Spain  revived  the 
bloody  contests  between  the  borderers.  The  British 
Government  sent  out  Marlborough's  veterans,  and 
those  sailors  who  had  swept  the  seas  of  every  enemy, 
to  aid  the  colonists.  An  immense  expedition,  which 
seemed  capable  of  destroying  any  trace  of  French 
rule  in  Canada,  sailed  from  Boston  in  1710,  against 
Quebec,  but  failed  miserably  at  sea  and  in  the  St. 
Lawrence  ere  it  reached  the  city.  The  Peace  of 
Utrecht,  in  1713,  brought  about  a  cessation  of  hos- 
tilities, but  not  of  jealousies,  or  of  Indian  wars  and 
massacres.  By  that  time  the  predominance  of  the 
white  man  was  well  established,  and  the  faces  of  the 
Indians  were  turned  steadily  towards  the  setting 
sun,  and  their  footsteps  followed  his  course  towards 
the  forests  of  the  west.  Fort  after  fort  encroached 
on  their  decreasing  domain,  and  Englishman  and 
Frenchman,  each  after  his  kind,  sought  to  reproduce 
in  the  New  World  those  features  of  the  mother- 
country  which  he  loved  or  admired  or  respected 
most. 


I 


■ 


■I 


f 


148 


CANADA. 


I 

J' .:,  j 

i 

*v- 

■'1 

Hi. 

nfl 

1 

1 

I 


p 


Til  ilio  period  vvliioh  olnpHod  botwoon  ibo  Tronty  of 
lUn'chi  and  ihv  drclaraiion  of  war  in  !74''),  both  tbo 
Colonics  and  Canada  prospcnul,  but.  lln^  incnMi.so  of 
i\\v  ioYinvr  was  to  tliat  of  ihv.  bitter  aH  tlio  inoriMiHO 
of  ^raiii  (u)niparrd  witb  that  of  moss.  'Vlivi  pcopUf 
of  IVIassaclmst'ttH,  led  by  thrir  coU)nial  cliitjf,  IVp- 
ptTi'll,  wiili  (u)ntiM^<MitH  from  llluxb^  Island,  Vt^mont, 
nnd  (^onnctrticut,  wt^n;  joint'd  by  the  Hritisb  Ih't^t. 
imdrr  Warren,  and  Hvi  out  on  their  darling  |)rojeet. 
of  reducing  Ijouisbur^,  liu;  ^retji  J^Veneh  arsenal  and 
Hiation  at.  (-apti  Hreton.  On  the  I7th  of  Aup;ust, 
174(),  after  a  sic'^e  of  two  months,  tla^  phu*e  surnui- 
dered  with  all  ils  stores  to  the  victorious  C-olonists. 
]t  was  with  dillieulty  that  hVanee  eouhl  (;ouunimi(Mite 
with  her  nuMUUMul  dependency,  for  i\\v  hvm  was  nearly 
controlUui  by  the!  Hritish  th'cts,  but  iier  pride  was 
aroused,  and  f^reat  armanuMits  w(^re  pr<*pareil  and 
dispatched  to  ('ana(bi.  Aj/lavit  Dnts  ct  IiohIvs  dissi- 
jKintur.  'J\vo  expeditions  were  nigh  lost  altogether 
on  tlu;  waves.  A  third  was  destroyed  by  the  lleet 
under  Warren  and  Anson.  The  Peace  of  lituthellu 
put  an  end  to  the  passionate  ell'orts  of  France  to 
retrit^ve  her  disasters,  but  tla;  rivalries  and  excesst^H 
of  the  liritish  and  P\'(uich  fur-traders  continutHJ  tlu^ 
strife  between  tin;  (-olonies  and  New  Traucu^  'Vho 
latter  claiming  the  whole  course  of  the  Ohio,  as  it 
appears  with  somt^  reason,  forbade  our  traders  to 
resort  thert!.  h\>rts  were  built  to  enable  tlw  l^'rench 
to  cxertri.Me  their  jurisdiction  and  authority  on  ground 
which  was  regardtnl  by  tii<^  Hritish  ('olonists  as 
their  own,  and  it  is  a  remarkable  fact,  that  (ii'orge 
Washington's  lirst  military  service;  was  in  conuuand 
of  an  expedition  of  Virginians  to  capture  tlu;  works 
rre<'led  by  tlu;  l<N*<'nch,  luid  that  lu;  was  compelled  to 
Jay  down  his  arms  by  !)«'  Villiers,  after  a  brief  and 
inglorious — not  to  say  very  badly  managed  cam- 
paign. Although  (ireat  Hritain  made  considerabk; 
cllbrts  to  ai<l  the  (.olonists  in  their  wars,  she  coukl 
not  very  well  continue  to  do  so  wIkui  shi;  was  at 


nOKDlCK  CONFLICTS. 


119 


proposal.     Hut  \Uo.  »ihh\  Ii 

of  rVtUiiul  Union,  of  H(>ir-iuxiition,  of  hwyin^  troopn 


pence  with  Franco,  if  her  diflttint  snbji'cts  oliosc  to 
curry  on  hoHtilitioB  on  tlK'ir  own  urrount.  Tlio 
KIng'H  (lovtirnnKM^t  ^Mivt^  lulvit'o  to  i\\v  ('oloni«'s  lo 
unitti  lor  Ht'll-ddVnoo,  wliitrlj  Uul  in  I7'V1  to  tin  tissnii- 
blii^c  of  ii  convention  at  Albany,  ut  wliifli  Massa- 
flniHctts,  Rliodn  Inland,  Nrw  llanipsliiro,  ('onnfrticui, 
Ponnnylvania,  Maryland,  and  Now  York  \yvrv  ro\uv- 
HiMilfd.  Tlu^  dch'gatrs  drew  up  a  plan  lor  what,  was 
in  cihH^i  a  Kederal  Union,  hut.  tla^  plan  IVII  to  tho 
ground.  TIh^  llonn^  (iovernnient  n'tusfti  to  adopt 
it,  bocauso  of  certain  eneroaehnients  which  it  con- 
taine<l  on  th«^  prerojjfatives  of  the  Crown;  and  tho 
colonial  assemblies,  which  had  Already  <*xhibite<l  a 
sturdy  self-reliance  and  independence  worthy  of 
attention  at  home,  w«"re  eqiiatly  dissalislitid  with  the 

had  bt'cn  sown  —  the  idea 
of  Itwying  troops 
and  regulating  tradt^,  was  busy  in  menV  minds.  In 
the  same  year  the  ( -olonists  wert^  preparing  for  their 
gHMit  attack  on  Canada  —  an  attack  which  was  made, 
not  because  Krantn^  was  the  juiemy  of  Kngland,  but 
because  J^^enchmen  in  (Janaila  werts  rivals  of  tin? 
American  Colonists. 

Tht;  lines  of  invasion  of  l*Vench  C*anada  marked 
out  by  the  American  subjects  of  the  Hritish  C>rown, 
were  very  nuicli  the  s.inni  as  I  hose  of  the  American 
rebels  against  the  (Vown,  wlu'U  sonu^  twenty  odd 
years  afterwanls  llu'y  prepared  to  invade  Mritish 
('anada.  Ii  is  singular  that  the  men  who,  under  the 
authority  of  the  (-rown  of  lOngland,  or  using  at  least 
tlui  pp'text  of  a  state  of  war  between  the  home  (rjum- 
tries,  wagt'd  war  against  tln^  subjects  of  FrancM'  in 
Canada,  should  have  been  forenmst  in  the  rebellion 
against  l^iUghuKJ,  and  that,  in  the  invasimt  of  Canada, 
which  was  one  of  tluMr  lirst  undertakings  in  pmsu- 
anc(^  of  thtar  rebellion,  they  should  ha.v(!  found  neither 
fe«ympathy  nor  aid  amongst  the  l*'riuich  (^uiadians, 
whose  allegiance  had  bctMi  so  rcecMilly  trausleired  to 
the  King  of  Knglund.     More  uiiiguhu  utili  is  it  that 


u 


i 


-    l| 


150 


CANADA. 


France,  which  had  received  so  many  tremendous 
blows  from  these  very  colonists,  and  which  suffered 
so  much  in  her  efforts  to  defend  her  Canadian  depen- 
dencies from  these  inveterate  assailants,  should  have 
been  mainly  instrumental  in  establishing  their  inde- 
pendence, and  in  leading  their  great  revolution  to  a 
successful  issue.  The  condition  of  the  Scottish  bor- 
ders in  the  fourteenth  and  fifteenth  centuries  furiiish')s 
but  a  very  poor  parallel  to  the  state  of  the  debatable 
land  which  spread  from  the  banks  of  the  Ohio,  by 
the  great  lakes,  down  to  the  Atlantic.  Constant 
aggressions  took  place  from  one  side  or  the  other  by 
trading  parties,  bands  of  Indians,  or  by  armed  parties 
with  larger  purposes  of  occupation  or  vengeance. 
Whilst  the  English  Colonies  were  enjoying  the  full 
fruit  of  the  principles  on  which  they  had  been 
founded,  Canada,  regarded  as  a  mere  dependency  of 
the  French  Crown,  vexed  with  the  complicated  and 
inconsistent  form  of  government,  was  daily  losing 
ground.  The  ill-paid  governors  were  corrupt,  or  at 
all  events  exacting :  the  Intendants  ground  the  prov- 
ince to  powder  to  make  the  most  of  their  office,  and 
beneath  each  of  these  officers  was  an  army  of  eccle- 
siastics, bent  on  appropriating,  for  that  incarnation 
of  the  Church  which  appeared  in  their  proper  per- 
sons, the  best  of  the  land  and  the  great  tithes  of  all 
trade  and  commerce.  Of  the  many  encounters  which 
took  place  on  the  borders,  there  are  few  authentic 
records :  it  is  sufficient  to  know  that  neither  the 
French  nor  the  English  succeeded  at  the  period  in 
effecting  a  permanent  lodgment  within  the  frontiers 
of  the  enemy.  The  Governors  of  Canada  com- 
memorated their  victory,  "  Rebellibus  Novm  Ang'Hce 
IncoHs^^^  on  medals  and  brasses,  and  Great  Britain 
rewarded  by  various  honors  the  colonial  generals  and 
governors  who  were  supposed  to  have  attained  ad- 
vantages over  their  Canadian  neighbors.  In  1756 
war  was  again  declared  by  Great  Britain  against 
France.      Montcalm,  availing  himself  of  the  utter 


LOUISBURG   AND  TICONDEROGA. 


151 


imbecility  of  Lord  Loudon,  who  commanded  the 
British  troops,  speedily  fell  upon  the  important  post 
of  Oswego,  on  Lake  Ontario,  and  captured  it,  with 
its  garrison,  guns,  flotilla,  and  stores.  He  followed 
up  that  great  success,  in  the  following  year,  by  the 
capture  of  Fort  Edward,  which  surrendered,  with  its 
garrison  of  8000  men  under  Monroe,  who  were  mas- 
sacred by  the  Indian  auxiliaries.  The  officers  who 
were  sent  from  England  to  command  the  troops,  and 
their  continental  allies  at  this  period,  must  have  in- 
spired the  American  continentals  with  a  feeling  of 
profound  contempt ;  but  Lord  Ci.atham,  perceiving 
that  the  Colonists  must  be  the  mainstay  of  military 
operations,  aroused  the  various  New  England  settle- 
ments, by  spirited  despatches  and  promises  of  help, 
to  make  strenuous  efforts  against  the  enemy.  Once 
more  a  British  fleet  under  Admiral  Boscawen,  ap- 
peared upon  the  scene,  and  a  force  of  14,000  men, 
under  Lord  Amherst,  was  covered  by  its  guns  in  the 
o|)erations  which  led  tr  ihe  surrender  of  Louisburg 
on  the  26th  of  July,  i.756.  This  success  was  tar- 
nished by  thf*  defeat  of  a  powerful  army  under  Abe  - 
crombie,  in  an  ill-judged  assault  against  Ticonderoga, 
where  16,000  men  were  beaten  back  by  the  French 
garrison,  which  numbered  only  3000;  but  Kingston, 
on  Lake  Ontario,  surrendered  to  the  British- American 
troops,  and  Fortdu  Quesne  —  in  the  advance  against 
which  Braddock  lost  his  life  in  the  former  war  —  was 
abandoned  without  a  blow  by  its  French  garrison, 
who  would  be  somewhat  astounded,  if,  revisiting  the 
glimpses  of  the  moon,  they  could  gaze  upon  the 
Pittsburg  of  the  present  day  on  the  site  of  their 
ancient  post.  In  July,  1759,  three  great  expeditions 
were  directed  against  Canada.  The  Ministry  re- 
solved at  any  cost  to  trample  under  foot  every  trace 
of  French  dominion  on  the  American  continent,  and 
in  that  resolution  they  were  mainly  su.stained  by  the 
passion  and  animosity  of  the  New  England  Colonists. 
A  powerful  corps  under  Lord  Amherst  was  directed 


f 


(11 


,f^ 


)        I 


1 

'pi 


152 


CANADA. 


against  Ticonderoga.  Another  corps,  under  Sii 
William  Johnson,  mainly  composed  of  continentals 
ana  Indians,  advanced  against  Fort  Niagara,  whilst 
an  army  commanded  by  General  Wolfe,  covered  by 
the  fleet,  made  an  attack  from  the  St.  Lav/rence 
against  Quebec.  Ticonderoga  and  Crown  Point 
were  abandoned  by  the  French,  and  Fort  Niagara 
was  taken  after  an  engagement  with  the  enemy. 
How  Wolfe  fared  ell  the  world  knows :  an  elaborate 
account  of  the  great  victory  which  gave  Canada  to 
the  Crown  would  be  out  of  place  in  this  volume,  but 
elsewhere  I  have  made  a  few  remarks  concerning  the 
events  of  that  memorable  battle.  On  the  18th  of 
September  the  British  standard  floated  from  the  cita- 
del of  Quebec.  Ever  since  that  time  the  country, 
handed  over  four  years  afterwards  by  the  Treaty  of 
Paris  to  the  British,  has  remained  under  the  pro- 
tection of  England,  acquiring  year  by  year  a  greater 
measure  of  freedom  and  self-government,  till,  at  this 
moment,  it  may  be  considered  as  attached  to  the 
Empire  solely  by  what  Mr.  O'Connell  called  "the 
golden  link  of  the  Crown."  The  whole  population 
of  the  country  then  ceded  was  under  70,000.  The 
population  of  the  British  Colonies  in  America  was  at 
least  twenty  times  as  numerous.  The  American 
Colonists  were  at  last  gratified  by  a  conquest  which 
relieved  them  from  a  dangerous  neighbor,  who  was 
backed  by  the  power  of  France,  and  which  opened 
to  their  enterprise  not  only  the  lakes  and  rivers  of 
Canada,  but  Nova  Scotia,  Cape  Breton,  the  St. 
Lawrence,  and  all  the  valuable  fisheries  of  the  sea- 
board. It  was  unfortunate  that  no  attempt  was 
made  to  define  the  exact  boundary  line  between  the 
Colonies  and  the  new  territory,  although  the  Proc- 
lamation of  1763  no  doubt  was  supposed  at  the 
time  to  be  sufficiently  accurate ;  but  we  shall  see 
hereafter  that  the  neglect  proved  very  damaging  to 
the  interests  of  Canada.  The  Americans,  perhaps, 
would  have  resented   any  attempt  to  define  very 


nder  Sii 
itinentals 
ra,  whilst 
►vered  by 
L^awrence 
vn   Point 

Niagara 
B  enemy, 
elaborate 
anada  to 
iume,  but 
rning  the 
5  18th  of 
I  the  cita- 

country, 
Freaty  of 

the  pro- 
a  greater 
U,  at  this 
;d  to  the 
led  "the 
opulation 
00.  The 
ca  was  at 
A.merican 
est  which 
who  was 
h  opened 

rivers  of 
the   St. 

the  sea- 
mpt  was 
ween  the 
the  Proc- 
d   at  the 

shall  see 
laging  to 

perhaps, 
fine  very 


THE  COLONIAL  INSURRECTION. 


153 


nicely  the  frontier  between  the  new  conquest  of  Eng- 
land and  the  territories  of  the  colonists  who  had  con- 
tributed to  some  extent  in  effecting  it;  and  there 
were  not  many  who  foresaw  the  rupture  which  divided 
the  mother-country  and  her  dependencies  forever. 

For  fifteen  years  Canada,  content  with  the  preser- 
vation of  her  ecclesiastical  establishments,  of  freedom 
of  religion,  and  of  the  "  Custom  of  Paris,"  seemed 
perfectly  indifferent  to  the  transfer  of  her  allegiance 
from  one  king  to  another,  the  change,  perhaps,  being 
more  in  the  language  of  her  rulers,  and  the  blazon 
of  her  standard,  than  in  the  mode  of  government. 
In  fact  the  British  military  governors  were  singularly 
like  the  French  military  governors ;  but  it  was  felt 
at  home,  as  soon  as  the  difficulties  with  the  colonies 
began,  that  Canada  could  not  continue  to  be  like  a 
mere  military  division  of  a  conquered  country.  In 
1774,  the  Quebec  Act  was  passed,  which  created  a 
council  to  aid  in  the  administration  of  the  province, 
guaranteed  the  freedom  of  the  Roman  Catholic 
Church,  and  abrogated  the  Royal  Proclamation  of 
1763.  In  lieu  of  the  administration  of  a  military 
proconsulate,  there  was  established  a  settled  govern- 
ment, wuth  some  show  of  a  representative  basis. 
The  American  Colonists  were  then  upon  the  verge 
of  the  great  rebellion,  and  as  a  proof  of  the  spirit  in 
which  they  acted,  it  may  be  remarked  th^t  the  Con- 
tinental Congress  made  a  most  violent  remonstrance 
against  the  toleration  of  Roman  Catholicism  in  Can- 
ada, guaranteed  by  the  Quebec  Act.  The  very  next 
year  the  rebellious  Colonists  captured  Ticonderoga 
and  Crown  Point,  and  Montreal ;  and  had  their 
enterpi'ise  against  Quebec  succeeded,  Canada  might 
have  become  included  in  the  territory  which  eventu- 
ally became  portion  of  the  United  States.  So  bent 
were  the  Colonists  on  including  Canada  in  the  scope 
of  their  great  design,  that  in  1776,  immediately  after 
their  unsuccessful  invasion,  Franklin,  who  was  one 
of  the  main  movers  of  Wolfe's  expedition,  and  two 


:!: 


i\ 
■I' 


■11 


ILI 


154 


CANADA. 


m    i 


gentlemen,  were  sent  by  Congress  to  offer  the  Ca- 
nadians a  free  press  and  State  rights,  and  the  free 
exercise  of  the  faith  which  but  two  years  before  they 
had  so  bitterly  denounced  the  British  Government 
for  guaranteeing,  if  they  would  but  join  in  the  revolt 
against  Great  Britain.  In  the  war  which  followed 
between  the  British  and  the  American  Colonists, 
Canada  was  made  the  base  of  operations  against  the 
colonies,  which  generally  terminated  in  disasters, 
such  as  that  of  Burgoyne,  though,  in  pitched  battles, 
the  British  were  almost  invariably  victorious.  The 
habilans  took  little  or  no  part  in  the  contest,  but  on 
the  Declaration  of  Independence,  a  number  of  Royal- 
ists emigrated  from  the  States  and  settled  in  the 
country,  in  very  much  the  same  way  as  the  Southern 
Americans  are  now  taking  refuge  in  Canada  from  the 
persecution  of  their  Northern  neighbors.  The  wish  to 
give,  in  their  new  country,  these  devoted  men  some 
equivalent  for  that  which  they  had  lost,  suggested  a 
course  which  has  been  condemned  by  subsequent 
events.  The  Home  Government  resolved  upon  the 
unfortunate  step  of  dividing  the  province  into  Upper 
and  Lower  Canada,  with  a  governor-in-chief  in 
Lower,  and  a  lieutenant-governor  in  Upper  Canada, 
so  that  the  Royalists  might  not  be  quite  swamped 
by  the  French  element.  The  governors  selected 
were  c''ten  tnen  without  particular  aptitude  for  ad- 
ministration, certainly  destitute  of  the  ability  needed 
in  dealing  with  the  very  peculiar  state  of  society, 
trade,  and  interests  prevailing  in  the  provinces. 

Although  the  legislative  council  and  assembly  of 
Upper  Canada  had  equal  privileges  with  that  of 
Lower  Canada,  the  condition  of  the  people  was  very 
different,  principally  owing  to  the  paucity  of  popu- 
lation. Governor  Simcoe,  to  whom  the  care  of  Up- 
per Canada  was  first  confided,  ruled  over  a  wilder- 


ness, in  which  a 


few  clearings 


around  the 


trading 


stations   on   the   lakes   and   rivers,  and   some  huts 
gathered  about  the  military  posts,  were  the  sole  ves- 


THE  PARTITION  OF  CANADA. 


155 


tiges  of  the  white  man  and  civilization.  As  the 
English  colonists  gained  the  upper  hand  in  the  con- 
stant strife  which  raged  during  the  latter  period  of 
the  French  occupation,  the  habitans  of  the  remoter 
settlements  had  gradually  withdrawn  towards  Lower 
Canada,  and  had  concentrated  in  the  neighborhood 
of  the  towns  on  the  St.  Lav/rence,  where  they  could 
find  safety  in  case  of  danger,  and  transport  should 
their  friends  be  unable  to  protect  them.  It  was  not 
surprising  that  the  whole  French  population  flocked 
into  the  lower  province;  for  under  a  foreign  rule  they 
gained  confidence  and  ease  by  the  contemplation  of 
their  numbers  and  the  concentration  of  their  masses. 
Although  many  American  Royalists  came  into  the 
lake  country  so  abandoned,  they  were  not  equal  in 
number  to  the  population  that  fled.  It  required  no 
small  amount  of  courage  and  perseverance  in  Gov- 
ernor Simcoe  to  conduct  the  affairs  of  his  little  gov- 
ernment, from  the  site  which  his  sagacity  pointed  out 
to  him  as  the  most  favorable  for  the  development  of 
his  province.  The  Red  Man's  wigwam  still  clung 
to  the  border  of  the  British  posts,  and  the  few  in- 
trCj^ld  men  who  ventured  to  fix  their  homes  along  the 
,  shore  of  the  Upper  St.  Lawrence,  found  themselves 
amidst  an  uncongenial  population  of  half-breeds  and 
Indians,  accustomed  indeed  to  the  chase,  and  to  the 
rude  barter  which  represented  the  only  trade  of  those 
vast  regions,  but  utterly  averse  to  settled  life  and 
agricultural  labor;  obnoxious  also  to  handicraft-men, 
mechanics,  and  the  followers  of  the  peaceful,  regular 
pursuits,  which  are  the  handmaidens  of  civilization. 
Under  these  circumstances  the  advance  of  Upper 
Canada,  slow  as  it  was  for  some  years,  is  surprising, 
and  the  rapidity  of  her  subsequent  progress  is  certainly 
worthy  of  admiration.  In  1793  the  revenue  of  Upper 
Canada  was  less  than  1000/.  a  year  ;  and  although  the 
machinery  of  carrying  on  government  and  law  existed, 
it  was  but  imperfectly,  if  at  all,  worked.  In  theory  the 
English  law  prevailed,  and  one  cannot  but  admit,  if 


fp 


156 


CANADA. 


.|fc 


we  are  to  judge  by  its  fruits,  that  it  was  far  better 
calculated  to  promote  the  security  and  prosperity  of 
the  country,  than  the  Custom  of  Paris,  to  which  the 
French  Canadians  clung  in  virtue  of  the  capitula- 
tion of  Quebec.  Even  thus  early  the  militia  occupied 
the  attention  of  the  legislature,  although  they  were 
obliged  to  do  battle  against  the  denizens  of  the  forest, 
and  to  encourage  the  hunter  by  rewards  for  the  de- 
struction of  bears  and  wolves.  The  regulation  of 
trade  between  the  provinces  and  the  United  States  — 
the  establishment  of  ports  of  entry  — the  adjustment 
of  land-titles,  and  other  useful  matters  of  the  kind, 
were  not  neplecied  by  the  earliest  Parliaments.  Un- 
happily relij^  "o  ;^''estions  arose  soon  after  the  close 
of  the  last  ct  nryia  Lower  Canada.  The  national 
feeling  became  assoc  ifced  with  the  ancient  religion 
in  opposition  to  the  aims  of  the  British  Government 
and  of  the  Protestant  clergy.  Whilst  Dissenters  and 
Presbyterians  and  other  schismatics  from  the  Church 
of  Eftgland  were  allowed  free  scope  in  Upper  Can- 
ada, the  Government  set  itself  to  work  to  give  to  the 
Protestant  Church  in  Lower  Canada  the  prestige 
which  belonged  to  the  Catholic  Church.  The  Cana- 
dians raised  the  cry,  —  Nos  institutions  !  notre  lang^ue  I 
et  nos  lots  ! 

When  hostilities  with  America  seemed  imminent 
in  1807,  the  militia  nevertheless  responded  to  the  call 
with  enthusiasm  in  Lower  Canada,  and  Acts  were 
passed  in  Upper  Canada  for  raising,  training,  and 
billeting  the  force  in  case  of  need.  Although  the 
language  for  which  the  Lower  Canadians  cried  out 
was  that  of  France  Acadianized,  the  institutions  and 
the  laws  in  which  they  took  pride  belonged  only  to 
a  France  of  the  past.  The  Republic  had  placed  be- 
tween Canada  and  France  a  barrier  which  the  priest- 
hood declared  to  be  impassable.  What  had  they  to 
do  with  the  Goddess  of  Reason  and  a  calendar  with- 
out a  saint?  What  had  a  people  steeped  in  feudal- 
ism, or  the  Custom  of  Paris,  to  do  with  the  Code 


THE   WAR  OF    1812-15. 


157 


Napoleon  ?  Nevertheless  the  rulers  of  Canada  sus- 
pected the  habitans  of  treason,  whilst  the  habitans 
suspected  the  rulers  of  desig^^s  upon  their  faith  ;  and 
so  it  was  that  want  of  confidence,  one  of  the  most 
formidable  impediments  to  the  good  understanding 
between  governor  and  governed  which  can  exist,  took 
root  and  grew  apace.  The  second  war  with  the 
United  States  was  at  hand.  The  animosity  of  the 
Americans  of  the  Southern  and  Middle  States  against 
England  was  much  augmented  by  the  discovery 
of  a  project  of  the  Canadian  Secretary,  Ryland,  to 
detach  the  New  England  States  from  the  Union,  and 
to  annex  them  to  Canada.  The  bitter  feelings  which 
the  old  New  England  Colonists  had  entertained  to- 
wards their  French  neighbors  had  been  mitigated  by 
the  influence  of  a  common  language  and  tl  con- 
genial religion  and  laws  of  the  English  ru'ei  of 
Canada.  Certain  it  is  that  the  New  Englr  id  ('tie- 
gates  opposed  the  war  which  was  declared  against 
Great  Britain  by  the  Government  of  Washington  by 
every  means  in  their  power,  though  they  v/ere  by  no 
means  complimentary  to  Canada,  which  hey  sup- 
posed it  to  be  one  of  the  objects  of  the  war  party  in 
America  to  annex.  On  the  declaration  of  war  in 
1812,  the  Canadians,  with  the  exception  of  the  in- 
habitants of  one  parish,  turned  out  with  the  greatest 
alacrity,  and  in  considerable  force,  to  defend  their 
country.  General  Hall,  the  American  Governor  of 
Michigan,  seized  upon  Sandwich  in  July  in  the  same 
year;  but  he  was  soon  very  glad  to  cross  over  to 
Detroit  again,  where  he  very  ingloriously  capitulated 
soon  aftewards  to  General  Brock,  with  2500  men 
and  33  pieces  of  cannon,  thus  surrendering  the  whole 
State  of  Michigan  to  Great  Britain. 

The  Americans,  elated  by  their  naval  successes 
however,  resolved  to  conquer  Canada,  although  Mas- 
sachusetts, Connecticut,  and  New  York  opposed  the 
war  with  so  much  determination,  that  it  seemed  very 
probable  the  Union  would  be  broken  up  by  the  per- 


I 

i  ''s 


^t      I 


^'r" 


158 


CANADA. 


Bill 


m 


sistence  of  the  Southern  statesmen  in  their  policy. 
A  corps  under  Colonel  Van  Rensellaer  attacked  the 
British  and  the  Colonists  under  Brock  at  Queens- 
town,  near  Niagara,  and  although  that  gallant,  in- 
trepid, and  able  officer  fell  at  the  head  of  the  49th 
regiment,  the  British,  aided  by  Canadians  and  Indi- 
ans, captured  or  slew  nearly  the  whole  of  the  Amer- 
ican invading  force,  under  the  eyes  of  a  large  num- 
ber of  American  militia,  at  the  other  side  of  the 
river,  who  refused  to  cross  to  the  aid  of  their  coun- 
trymen. The  Americans  demanded  an  armistice, 
which  was  /nost  injudiciously  granted  by  General 
SheafTe.  The  American  General  Dearborn,  moan- 
time,  with  a  force  varying,  it  is  said,  from  8000  to 
10,000  men,  invaded  Lower  Canada,  but  after  some 
unsuccessful  skirmishes  retreated  to  Plattsburg.  A 
few  days  afterwards  the  American  General  Smith 
made  an  attack  on  Fort  Erie,  which  was  character- 
ized by  pusillanimity,  and  ended  in  disgraceful  fail- 
ure. When  the  campaign  opened  in  January,  1813, 
it  was  not  auspicious  for  the  invading  Americans. 
General  Winchester's  force  was  defeated  by  Colonel 
Proctor,  near  Frenchtown  ;  Ogdensburg  was  taken  ; 
but  the  Americans,  nevertheless,  continued  the  war 
with  characteristic  perseverance  and  foresight,  and 
set  to  work  to  use  the  water  communications  which 
we  had  neglected,  and  thus  gained  an  assured  advan- 
tage. General  SheafFe  was  driven  out  of  Toronto 
by  an  expedition  which  landed  under  the  guns  of  a 
newly  created  American  lake  fleet,  commanded  by 
an  experienced  and  brave  sailor.  Commodore  Chan- 
cey.  The  capture  of  Fort  George  followed  ;  but  an 
attempt  to  overrun  Lower  Canada  ended  in  utter 
defeat,  Prevost,  however,  being  beaten  back  in  an 
attack  upon  Sackett's  Harbor,  and  Proctor  being  re- 
pulsed in  an  assault  on  Sanduskey,  so  as  to  moder- 
ate any  undue  exultation  on  the  side  of  the  British 
on  account  of  their  success. 

This  war  excited  little  attention  in  England,  where 


ITl 


EVACUATION   OF  DETROIT  AND  AMIIERSTBURG.   159 


'  f 


men  thought  only  of  their  great  naval  victories,  in 
which  their  ships  captured,  sunk,  or  dispersed  whole 
fleets  of  the  enemy,  or  of  the  grand  operations  in 
Spain,  where  Wellington  was  worsting  in  succession 
the  best  generals  of  the  Empire.  All  the  strength 
of  the  United  States  was  put  forth  in  their  war 
against  Canada,  and  it  is  only  astonishing  that  the 
Americans  did  so  little  with  the  means  at  their  dis- 
posal. In  July  a  British  expedition,  covered  by  two 
sloops  of  war,  destroyed  stores,  barracks,  and  prop- 
erty at  Plattsburg,  Burlington,  and  Swanton,  whilst 
the  Americans  burned  the  British  stores  at  York.  It 
must  be  remembered  that  the  \mericans  had  every 
facility  in  the  command  of  the  lakes,  and  in  the  com- 
mand of  the  waters.  The  connection  between  Lower 
and  Upper  Canada  was  carried  on  by  rapid  and  dan- 
gerous rivers,  and  by  lakes  which  were  constantly 
patrolled  by  the  Americans,  the  roads  being  simplv 
tracks  through  a  forest,  or  causeways  of  a  most  rudi- 
mentary character.  For  some  time  both  sides  con- 
tended for  the  supremacy  of  the  Lakes.  On  the  31st 
of  July  the  British,  under  Sir  J.  Yeo,  captured  two 
of  Commodore  Chancey's  squadron,  which  was  fur- 
ther reduced  by  the  loss  of  two  gun-boats,  which 
capsized  in  trying  to  escape  from  the  victorious  Eng- 
lish. But  Chancey  repaired  damages  in  Sackett's 
Harbor,  and  on  the  28th  of  September  attacked  the 
British  flotilla,  which  eventually  retreated  under  the 
guns  of  Burlington  Heights.  For  the  time,  therefore, 
the  Americans  were  masters  of  Lake  Ontario,  and 
they  used  their  advantages  in  capturing  British  stores 
and  reinforcements.  On  the  10th  of  September  the 
British  lost  the  command  of  Lake  Erie  also.  An 
American  squadron  of  nine  vessels  under  Perry,  far 
superior  in  size,  number  of  men,  and  in  calibre  of 
guns,  defeated  a  British  squadron  of  six  vessels  under 
Barclay.  The  result  of  this  defeat  was  that  the  Brit- 
ish under  Proctor  had  to  evacuate  Detroit  and  Am- 
herstburg,  and  fall  back  to  open  communication  with 


I 


160 


CANADA. 


lis,  ,' 


it' 


their  base  of  supplies.  Oft  the  river  Thames  the 
pursuit  became  so  severe,  that  Proctor  turned  to  bay, 
hnt  he  was  overwhelmed  by  the  Americans  under 
Harrison,  who  numbered  3500,  whilst  the  British  did 
not  exceed  a  third  of  that  strength.  Michigan  was 
lost  to  us,  and  the  only  port  retained  by  the  British 
west  of  Burlington  was  Michiiimacinac,  which  they 
had  taken  early  in  the  war.  Nothing  less  than  the 
conquest  of  Lower  Canada  would  now  satisfy  the 
Americans.  A  force  of  12,000  men  was  assembled 
to  operate  against  Montreal.  On  the  20th  of  Sep- 
tember, Colonel  de  Salaberry,  a  Canadian  in  com- 
mand of  a  post  of  militia,  and  a  few  Indians,  checked 
the  advance  of  the  enemy,  and  fell  back  to  Chateau- 
gay,  where  in  a  most  creditable  and  gallant  action 
he  defeated  an  American  column  under  Hampton, 
which  was  intended  to  cooperate  with  an  expedition 
down  the  St.  Lawrence,  against  Montreal.  Another 
portion  of  the  force  was  defeated  at  Chrystler's  Farm, 
with  some  lorfs,  by  a  body  of  British  regulars,  Cana- 
dian militia,  and  Indians.  The  attack  on  Montreal 
was  precipitately  abandoned,  and  the  Canadians, 
who  had  done  so  well,  were  sent  back  to  their  homes. 
But  winter  did  not  put  an  end  to  the  war.  The 
British  determined  to  drive  the  enemy  out  of  Canada, 
and  the  Americans  retired  before  them.  On  the  10th 
of  December  the  enemy  abandoned  and  burned  the 
town  of  Newark.  On  the  18th  of  December  the 
British  surprised  Fort  Niagara  with  all  its  garrison, 
and  gave  Lewiston  and  Manchester  to  the  flames. 
Buffalo  and  Black  Rock  were  captured  and  destroyed 
by  the  British  under  Riall,  and  the  whole  country- 
side was  laid  waste  in  retaliation  for  the  burning  of 
Newark.  Sir  George  Prevost  was  able  to  meet  the 
Canadian  Parliament  with  pride,  and  to  congratu- 
late it  on  the  conduct  of  the  provincial  militia  in  the 
field,  and  the  loyalty  of  the  people.  Before  the  com- 
ing of  spring  had  loosed  the  lakes  and  rivers,  the 
Americans  returned  to  the  attack  on  Canada,  and  in 


CHIPPEWA.  —  NEW  ORLEANS. 


161 


March,  1814,  Macomb  cros&cd  Lal^e  Champlain ; 
but  a  part  of  his  force  wn.s  r(»pinit;cu  in  an  attack  oa 
Lacolle,  and  he  retired  tf  Fhittsbur^.  In  May,  Hir 
J.  Yeo  fitted  out  an  expedition  from  KiiigBtun,  which 
sailed  on  the  4th  of  May,  captured  ()rfwego,  and 
destroyed  some  military  stores,  but  did  not  succeed 
in  a  similar  attempt  against  Sackett's  Harbor.  On 
the  3d  of  July  a  strong  force  of  Americans  landed 
near  Chippewa,  and  defeated  a  body  of  British,  Ca- 
nadians, and  Indians,  of  inferior  numbers,  under 
Riall.  A  very  bloody  and  determined  contest  ensued 
on  the  25th,  near  the  same  place,  in  which  the  Amer- 
icans made  repeated  eftortt-  to  break  the  British,  but 
were  repulsed,  and  finally  retired  to  their  camp, 
whence  they  retreated  towards  Fort  Erie,  destroying 
their  baggage  and  stores.  The  British  followed,  and 
were  beaten  in  a  desperate  attack  to  storm  the  fort. 
Whilst  these  small  yet  sanguinary  actions  were 
breaking  out  sporadically  along  the  Canadian  fron- 
tier, the  Government  at  home  made  use  of  a  part  of 
the  forces  liberated  by  the  peace  with  France,  and 
resolved  on  giving  the  Americans  a  little  diversion 
from  their  pursuit  of  glory  and  conquest  in  Canada. 
A  British  force  under  Ross  defeated  the  American 
army  at  the  Races  of  Bladensburg,  captured  Wash- 
ington, and  destroyed  public  buildings  and  property 
of  all  kinds.  A  demonstration  against  Baltimore 
did  not  succeed  because  the  fleet  could  not  cooper- 
ate, although  the  British  troops  routed  the  American 
covering  army  with  the  utmost  ease,  and  at  New 
Orleans  our  troops  endured  a  humiliating  repulse. 
The  war  did  not  languish  in  Canada.  The  British 
took  Prairie  du  Chien  in  the  west,  and  seized  on  all 
the  country  between  the  river  Penobscot  and  New 
Brunswi  k.  The  most  important  part  of  the  State 
of  Maine  thus  fell  into  British  possession,  and  a 
provisional  government  was  established  over  it  till 
the  end  of  the  war,  when  Maine  was  restored  to  the 
United  States.     To  compensate  for  these  successes, 


A 


r 


m 


162 


CANADA. 


the  British  flotilla  was  beaten  by  the  Americans 
under  McDonough,  and  Sir  George  Prevost  sus- 
tained a  discreditable  defeat  at  the  hands  of  a  very 
inferior  force  under  General  Macomb,  on  the  8th  of 
September,  at  Plattsburgh.  The  Americans,  how- 
ever, abandoned  Fort  Eiie  on  the  5th  of  November, 
which  was  the  last  vestige  of  their  great  plans  for  the 
conquest  of  Canada.  The  Peace  of  Ghent  put  an 
end  to  a  contest  in  which  the  United  States  would 
have  soon  found  itself  opposed  to  the  whole  power 
of  Great  Britain.  The  conditions  of  that  Treaty 
were  disastrous  for  Canada,  as  they  shut  her  out 
from  any  seaport  for  several  months  of  the  year.  In 
fact.  Admiral  Gambier,  Mr.  Goulburn,  and  Mr. 
Adams,  knew  nothing  at  all  about  their  business, 
and  exercised  neither  diligence,  research,  nor  caution, 
in  examining  the  stipulations  of  the  treaty.  They 
accepted  all  the  American  conditions  and  statements 
without  ikiquij-y  or  hc>sitation.  They  never  bestowed 
a  thought  on  the  effe^^t  of  such  observations  as  "  the 
high  lands  lying  due  north  from  the  source  of  the 
River  St.  Croix,  and  the  head  of  the  Connecticut 
River  not  having  been  ascertained "  ;  "  part  of  the 
boundary  between  the  two  powers  not  having  been 
surveyed,"  and  the  like,  which  many  years  after  be- 
came essential  and  powerful  arguments  in  the  dis- 
cussion. In  the  war  the  Canadians  had  displayed 
courage  and  spirit,  ai:d  the  best  American  generals 
and  statesmen  were  very  speedily  satisfied  that  they 
could  eflect  very  little  in  the  way  of  conquest.  Thtiy 
were  but  too  glad  to  make  peace.  The  war  had  not 
only  damaged  their  resources,  but  threatened  the 
very  existence  of  the  Uruon.  The  Northern  delegates 
at  the  Hartford  Convention  had  not  merely  objected 
to  the  proceedings  of  the  Federal  Government,  but 
had  entered  upon  the  discusHion  of  fundamental 
changes  in  the  Constitution.  In  the  Treaty  of  Ghent 
no  concession  was  made  on  any  of  the  points  on 
which  the  declaration  of  war  was  made.     In  some 


*..jifeu 


1 


POLITICAL  CONTKOVERSIES. 


163 


respects  the  contest  with  the  United  States  proved 
of  decided  benefit  to  Canada ;  the  money  spent  by 
the  army  enriched  the  country,  and  the  incidents  of 
the  campaign  tended  to  raise  the  reputation  of  the 
Canadians  in  England,  and  elevated  the  sentiment 
of  self-respect  among  the  people.  Roads  were  made 
or  projected  for  military  purposes.  Canals  were  dis- 
cussed and  planned,  and  steam  began  to  contend 
w^ith  currents  and  rapids.  The  revenue  exceeded  the 
expenditure,  although  nearly  27,000/.  figured  as  an 
item  for  militia  services  the  first  year  after  the  war. 

Had  it  not  been  for  political  and  civil  complica- 
tions, the  progress  of  Canada  would  have  becii  still 
more  rapid  ;  but  truth  to  say,  progress  encountered  a 
considerable  obstacle  in  the  character  of  the  people 
of  Lower  Canada.  Probably  not  less  than  35,000 
of  the  whole  population  were  of  French  descent, 
strongly  attached  to  their  institutions,  and  therefore 
indisposed  to  change  —  influenced  by  traditions  of  a 
most  conservative  character,  and  by  territorial  ar- 
rangements which  perpetuated  the  very  essence  of 
feudalism.  Nevertheless,  emigration  was  encouraged, 
free  passages  were  given  to  some  immigrants,  food 
to  others,  one  hundred  acres  of  land  to  all.  Banks 
were  established ;  but  through  all  the  extent  of  the 
uppei  province  in  1817,  there  were  not  (juite  seven 
persons  to  the  square  mile.  In  some  instances  inju- 
dicious governors  exercised  their  power  to  counteract 
the  good  disoosiiion  of  the  House  of  Parliament,  and 
occasionally  Parliament  marred  the  excellent  inten- 
tions of  the  representaUves  of  the  Crown.  Impeach- 
ment of  judges,  imprisonment  of  journalists,  ques- 
tions of  privilege  and  the  like  arose,  which  interru[)ted 
the  good  feeling  so  necessary  to  the  progress  of  colo- 
nial life.  Constant  fears  of  sedition,  privy  conspiracy, 
and  rebellion,  haunted  the  minds  of  governors,  whilst 
the  colonists  and  the  liabitans  struggled  for  greater 
freedom  of  action.  Although  the  Ciiuadians  had  re- 
sisted the  Americans  with  the  greatest  energy,  they 


1 

i 


164 


CANADA. 


pi   1 

n  1 

H 

1       5 

;.5 


were  suspected  of  a  desire  to  coalesce  with,  or  to 
imitate  the  institutions  of,  the  enemy.  England  at 
this  time  was  agitated  by  aspirations  for  reform,  and 
those  who  led  the  masses  certainly  justilied  tlic  sns- 
picion  with  which  their  designs  were  regarded,  by 
intemperance  of  language.  Among  i'  e  emigrants 
who  [locked  to  Canada  were  men  who  were  tinged 
deeply  with  the  dye  of  dangerous  democratic  doc- 
trine, and  notwithstanding  the  great  gulf  fixed  be- 
tween the  new-comers  and  the  French  hahUans,  it 
was  feared  that  the  two  parties  would  unite  in  found- 
ing a  government  which  could  not  be  congenial  to 
one  or  the  other.  When  Lord  Dalhousie  came  out 
in  1850,  he  found  however  a  tolerably  prosperous 
community.  The  dissensions  respecting  the  civil 
list  which  had  occurred  for  several  years  previously, 
inaugurated  Lord  Dalhousie's  administration.  The 
Assembly  would  not  grant  a  permanent  civil  list, 
and  took  the  extraordinary  step  of  appointing  an 
agent,  who  was  a  member  of  the  British  Parliament, 
to  represent  them  in  England.  The  impolicy  of 
dividing  the  country  into  two  provinces  became  more 
apparent  as  questions  connected  with  revenue  arose, 
and  the  discussion  of  these  questions  was  embittered 
by  deficient  harvests  and  commercial  distress.  Now 
it  was  seen  how  injuriously  the  want  of  a  port  open 
all  the  year  aflected  the  interests  of  Canada,  which 
for  five  or  six  months  was  denied  all  access  to  the 
sea,  unless  through  the  United  States.  The  union 
of  the  two  provinces  was  agitated,  but  the  French 
population  did  not  support  the  project.  They  be- 
lieved th(;y  would  lose  by  amalgamation;  that  they 
would  forfeit  their  privileges,  and  oe  deprived  of  the 
advantages  tliey  enjoyed  in  the  free  import  of  Amer- 
ican produce.  When  it  became  known  that  the 
Government  really  had  a  project  for  the  union  of  tlie 
provinces,  Mr.  Papineau,  the  Speaker  of  tlie  Asseiu- 
bly,  was  dispatched  to  England  with  a  petition 
against  the  proposed  amalgamation,  and  it  was  de- 


NEGLECT  OF  CANADIAN   INTERESTS. 


165 


ferred  for  a  time.  Financial  difficulties  increased 
the  ill-temper  of  the  governed,  and  the  harshness  and 
resolution  of  the  Governtnent  widened  the  breach 
between  them.  Squabbles  and  ill-blood  sprang  up 
with  greater  vehemence  and  animos^ity  every  day, 
and  the  seeds  of  the  evil  which  came  to  maturity  in 
1837,  if  not  then  first  planteo,  were  certainly  invig- 
orated. The  energies  of  thj  English,  Scotch,  and 
Irish  emigrants  who  flocked  into  the  north  were  not 
to  be  repressed  by  these  malign  influences.  The  cit- 
izens of  the  old  world  pushed  their  way  into  Upper 
Canada,  and  finding  lakes  and  rivers  unfit  for  navi- 
gation, projected  and  carried  out  canals,  and  already 
gi'asped  the  probability  of  landing  cargoes  of  Cana- 
dian wheat  in  Liverpool,  from  vessels  loaded  at 
Kingston  and  Montreal. 

The  Imperial  negotiators  who  renounced  all  the 
claims  which  they  might  have  preferred  in  behalf  of 
Canada  on  the  peace  of  1815,  would  probably  have 
failed  to  secure  for  the  province  a  port  en  the  sea, 
although  the  British,  who  held  so  large  a  portion  of 
the  State  of  Maine,  might  have  fairly  sought  some 
equivalent  for  it.  At  all  events  no  strenuous  efibrt 
was  made  to  obtain  such  an  advantage — nor  was 
there  any  attempt  on  our  part  to  ascertain  what  the 
precise  boundaries  were  which  the  Americans  claimed. 
We  will  just  see  how  a  British  negotiator  many 
years  later  consented  to  draw  a  line  which  placed 
the  land  communications  of  the  mother-country 
with  the  provii.'.es  in  war  time  at  the  mercy  of  an 
enemy  for  many  miles  of  its  course  —  Canadian 
interests  iind  Imperial  considerations  being  alike 
neglected  —  peace;  and  war  alike  hampered,  by  want 
of  foresight,  })ru(hmce,  or  statesmanlike  consideration. 
The  increasing  prosperity  of  Canada  forced  her  to 
enter  into  closer  relations  with  the  United  States, 
and  to  accede  to  arrangements  with  the  Federal 
Government,  which  were  of  course  regulated  by  Im- 
perial agency,  and  which  were  not  always  character- 


166 


CANADA. 


I 


ized  by  wisdom.  But  there  was  no  alternative  —  at 
least  not  one  which  could  then  be  adopted.  Thi.» 
idea  of  a  /[^eat  confederation  of  the  British  Provin'^ey. 
whir;h  would  nable  Canada  to  avail  herself  of  the 
^jor'ts  of  New  Brunswick  and  Nova  Scotia,  if  il  pre- 
sented itself  at  all,  was  seen  to  be  surrounded  by 
embarrassing  obstacles  and  conflicting  sentiments. 
The  skill  in  the  conception,  and  the  energy  displayed 
in  the  execution,  of  the  canal  system,  which  is  the 
grandest  and  most  extensive  in  the  world,  have  made 
a  practicable  passage  of  more  than  2000  miles  from 
Auticosti  up  to  Superior  City;  and  works  proposed 
or  in  progress  by  land  and  water  attest  the  enter- 
prise and  resolution  with  which  the  Canadians  con- 
tended against  the  only  impediments  in  the  way  of 
their  prosperity  and  greatness.  The  claims  of  Can- 
ada to  Imperial  aid  against  invasion  are  strengthened 
by  concessions  made  by  the  Imperial  agents,  which 
clear  away  the  path  of  the  invaders.  Although  all 
the  border  States  had  their  representatives  and  chari)- 
pions,  the  voice  of  Canada  was  not  heard  in  the  d«. 
liberations  of  t]ie  Commission.  It  was  British  terri- 
tory which  was  m  debate  —  there  are  some  who  hold 
that  Canada  is  alone  called  upon  to  defend  it.  Al- 
though the  land  may  be  invaded  because  it  beloi.  ;s 
to  Great  Britain,  so  far  that  Great  Britain  is  act  j- 
ally  attacked  by  aggression  upon  it,  Canada,  in- 
volved il  war  because  of  its^  riependency  on  the 
British  Crown,  must  bear  th  ^  'unt  of  defending 
that  which  British  diplomacy  has  rendered  peculiarly 
liable  to  invasion.  It  is  plain  that  those  who  insist 
on  leaving  Canada  to  defend  herself,  are  advocating 
a  policy  which  tdids  to  separate  Canada  from  the 
British  Crown.  The  provinces  are  ruled  by  a  Brit- 
ish viceroy,  and  are  under  the  British  flag,  which 
would  be  the  cause  of  an  American  attack.  Canada 
can  do  nothing  to  provoke  hostility,  but  the  English 
may  be  struck  with  effect  as  long  as  the  provinces 
are  rule'?  by  the  Crown,  and  contain  a  company  of 
British  soldiers. 


VALUE  OF  THE  PROTECTION. 


167 


Tt  would  be  interesting  to  inquire  whether  the 
Cauadians  would  be  better  off  by  themsolv^s  than 
they  are  at  present,  supposing  always  that  ♦ho  new 
theories  are  likely  to  prevail,  in  case  of  war.  Not- 
withstanding the  violence  and  exaggerated  language 
of  the  American  press,  it  is  only  right  to  conclude 
that  Canada  is  far  less  liable  to  insult  and  aggres- 
sion under  British  protection  than  she  would  be 
without  it.  But  that  remark  can  only  hold  good  in 
cases  where  the  Americans  do  not  feel  more  than 
usual  irritation  against  Great  Britain.  The  Cana- 
dians must  feel  that  if  they  stood  alone,  pretexts 
would  not  long  be  wanting  to  treat  the  provinces  as 
Texas  was  served.  Canada  has  at  present  the 
power  of  England  at  her  back,  and  the  threat  to 
deprive  her  of  it  by  no  means  implies  that  she  will 
be  left  to  fight  single-handed  in  the  day  of  need. 
On  the  whole,  balancing  the  chances  of  aggression 
on  account  of  England  against  the  chances  of  ag- 
gression if  she  stood  alone,  it  is  certain  that  Canada 
gains  more  than  she  loses  by  her  present  connection. 
The  growth  of  great  States  along  her  frontier,  and 
the  excessive  weakness  of  a  water  boundary  in  face 
of  a  maritime  power,  have  caused  us  at  home  to 
insist  on  the  engineering  impossibility  of  defending 
the  whole  of  the  land  and  lake  boundaries,  but  it  by 
no  means  follows  that  the  conquest  of  the  country 
would  be  equally  easy.  With  the  full  command  of 
the  sea  and  all  its  advantages — with  commerce 
free  —  with  a  wonderful  unanimity  in  the  object  of 
the  war  —  with  immense  exaltation  of  spirit,  and 
unparalleled  expenditure  of  money,  the  Northern 
Americans  have  not  yet  subdued  the  Southern  States, 
though  they  have  more  than  tested  the  quality  of 
their  inner  armor.  Canada,  with  its  narrow  belt  of 
inhabited  territory,  flanked  by  inland  seas  and  vast 
rivers,  offers  no  resemblance,  it  is  true,  to  the  South, 
but  aided  by  Great  Britain  and  her  army,  her  fleet, 
and  her  purse,  she  might   defy  subjugation   it   she 


168 


CANADA. 


*   ■:  .;■  >   '* 


i 


4 
i 


could  not  escape  invasion.  It  must  be  noted  that 
the  Americans  frequently  dwell  on  ideas  for  a  long 
time  ere  they  attempt  to  carry  them  out,  but  that 
generally  they  do  make  an  effort  to  give  practical 
effect  to  those  theories  which  have  taken  hold  of  the 
popular  mind.  For  many  years  before  the  annexa- 
tion of  Texas  and  the  war  with  Mexico  took  place, 
the  people  were  prepared  for  both  by  the  constant 
inculcation  of  their  necessity.  It  is  only  justice  to 
the  Government  of  the  United  States  to  declare  that 
their  action  has  been  generally  restrictive,  and  that  it 
has  acted  as  a  drag  on  the  wheels  of  the  popular 
chariot.  There  is  in  fact  a  great  people  standing 
between  the  fringe  of  the  noisy  democracy  and  the 
highlands  of  Federal  authority,  which  breaks  the 
force  of  the  popular  wave,  and  hears  unmovedly  the 
beatings  of  the  turbulent  press,  and  raging  voices  of 
the  Cleons  of  the  hour.  Shame  it  is  indeed  to  them 
that  they  so  often  permit  the  worth  and  sense  and 
honor  of  the  nation  to  be  represented  by  the  worth- 
less, foolish,  degraded  scum  that  simmers  in  its  noisy 
ebullitions  on  the  surface  of  the  social  system.  We 
cannot  be  sure  how  far  the  Americans  are  actuated 
by  the  feolingb  which  find  expre  sion  in  the  most 
scandalous  prblic  ppper  of  New  York,  but  we  do 
know  that  the  paper  in  question  is  largely  read,  and 
that  its  favorite  topic,  wrien  there  is  a  lack  of 
subjects  for  abuse  or  menace,  is  the  forthcoming 
doom  of  Canadrt,  "  when  this  weary  war  is  over." 

In  case  of  an  invasion  caused  by  any  quarrel 
with  Great  Britain,  or  by  any  policy  for  which  the 
Canadians  are  not  responsible,  what  ought  they  to 
expect  from  us  ?  Everything  but  impossibilities. 
Among  t!;i  greitest  of  impossibilities  would  be  pro- 
tection oi  ilui  v,l?.>le  of  the  frontier,  with  all  the  aid 
they  couK!  give  u^.  The  greatest  would  be  the  de- 
fence of  their  tcrrilN -ries  without  all  the  aid  they  could 
afford.  The  Canadians  tell  us  that  in  the  hour  of 
danger  they  will  be  ready,  !)ut  as  yet  they  have  fallen 


i 


MUTUAL  DUTIES. 


169 


1  that 
L  long 
t  that 
ictical 
of  the 
inexa- 
place, 
iistant 
ice  to 
re  that 
that  it 
opular 
mding 
nd  the 
ks   the 
Jly  the 
ices  of 
0  them 
[se  and 
iworth- 
s  noisy 
We 
aated 
most 
we  do 
d,  and 
ck   of 
oming 
er." 
juarrel 
ch  the 
ley  to 
ilitieri. 
[e  pro- 
ne aid 
Ihe  de- 
could 
)ur  of 
fallen 


short  of  that  degree  of  preparation  which  we  have 
a  right  to  expect.  If  the  blow  falls  at  all  it  will 
come  swift  and  strong,  but  if  they  do  their  duty  to 
us  there  can  be  no  fear  of  our  failing  them  in  the 
time  of  peril. 

The  Honorable  Joseph  Howe  has  vindicated  the 
claims  of  the  Colonies  to  the  care,  protection,  and 
assistance  of  the  mother-country.  He  has  pointed 
out  the  defects  in  our  system,  from  which  the  inevi- 
table necessity  arises,  that  the  colony  shall  become 
detached  from  the  mother-country,  to  become  its 
rival,  or  probably  its  enemy  at  some  future  stage  of 
its  existence.  Though  California  —  3000  miles  away 
—  is  represented  at  Washington;  "though  Algeria 
is  represented  at  Paris ; "  the  provinces  of  North 
America  have  no  representation  in  London. 

"  Our  columns  of  gold,"  he  exclaims,  "  and  our 
pyramids  of  timber,  may  rise  in  your  Crystal  Pal- 
aces, but  our  statesmen  in  the  great  council  of  the 
empire  never.  Saxony  or  Wirtemberg  are  treated 
with  a  deference  never  accorded  to  Canada,  though 
they  are  peopled  by  foreigners.  The  war  of  1812- 
15  was  neither  sought  nor  provoked  by  the  British 
Americans.  It  grew  out  of  the  continental  wars, 
with  which  we  certainly  had  as  little  to  do.  Whether 
a  Bourbon  or  a  Bonaparte  sat  upon  the  throne  of 
France,  was  a  matter  of  perfect  indifference  to  us. 
We  were  pursuing  our  lawful  avocations  —  clearing 
up  our  country,  opening  roads  into  the  wilderness, 
bridging  the  streams,  and  organizing  society  as  we 
best  could,  trading  with  our  neighbors,  and  wishing 
them  no  harm.  In  the  mean  time  British  cruisers 
were  visiting  and  searching  American  vessels  on  the 
sea.  Then  shots  were  tired,  and,  before  vf»  had 
time  to  recall  our  vessels  engaged  in  foreign  com- 
merce, or  to  make  the  slightest  pre|)aration  for  de- 
fence, our  coaste  were  infected  by  American  cruissrs 
and  privateers,  and  ouz  whoie  frontier  was  in  a 
blaze. 


34 

■1 


r  * 


['/  ^  ■ 


:^ 


^^ 


170 


CANADA. 


"  You  count  the  cost  of  war  by  the  army  and 
navy  estimates,  but  who  can  ever  count  the  cost  of 
that  war  to  us  ?  —  a  war,  let  it  be  borne  in  mind, 
into  which  we  were  precipitated  without  our  knowl- 
edge or  consent.  Let  the  coasts  of  England  be  in- 
vaded by  powerful  armies  for  three  summers  in  suc- 
cession ;  let  the  whole  Channel  from  Falmouth  to 
the  Nore  be  menaced,  let  Southampton  be  taken  and 
burnt,  let  the  Southdowns  be  swept  from  the  Hamp- 
shire hills,  and  the  rich  pastures  of  Devonshire  supply 
fat  beeves  to  the  enemy  encamped  in  the  western 
counties,  or  marching  on  Manchester  and  London  ; 
let  the  youth  of  England  be  drawn  from  profitable 
labor  to  defend  these  great  centres  of  industry,  the 
extremities  of  the  island  being  given  up  to  rapine 
and  to  plunder ;  fancy  the  women  of  England  living 
for  three  years  with  the  sound  of  artillery  occasion- 
ally in  their  ears,  and  the  thoughts  of  something 
worse  than  death  ever  present  to  their  imaginations  ; 
fancy  the  children  of  England,  with  wonder  and 
•alarm  on  their  pretty  faces,  asking  for  three  years 
when  their  fathers  would  come  home  ;  fancy,  in  fact, 
the  wars  of  the  Roses  or  the  civil  wars  back  again, 
and  then  you  can  understand  what  we  suffered  from 
1812  to  1815.  Talk  of  the  cost  of  war  at  a  dis- 
tance ;  let  your  country  be  made  its  theatre,  and 
then  you  will  understand  how  unfair  is  your  mode 
of  calculation  when  you  charge  us  with  the  army 
estimates,  and  give  us  no  credit  for  what  we  have 
done  and  suffered  in  your  wars. 

"  Though  involved  in  the  war  of  1812  by  no  inter- 
est or  fault  of  our  own ;  though  our  population  was 
scattered,  and  our  coasts  and  frontiers  almost  de- 
fenceless ;  the  moment  it  came,  we  prepared  for 
combat  without  a  murmur.  I  am  just  old  enough 
to  remember  that  war.  The  commerce  of  the  Mari- 
time Provinces  was  not  a  twentieth  part  of  what  it 
is  now,  but  what  we  had  was  almost  annihilated. 
Our  mariners,  debaned  from  lawful  trade,  took  to 


"1 


THE  EFFECT  OF  WAR  ON  CANADA. 


171 


privateering,  and  nnade  reprisals  on  the  enemy.  Our 
Liverpool  *  clippers '  fought  some  gallant  actions, 
and  did  some  service  in  those  days.  The  war  expen- 
diture gave  to  Halifax  an  unhealthy  excitement,  but 
improvement  was  stopped  in  all  other  parts  of  the 
province;  and,  when  peace  came,  the  collapse  was 
fearful  even  in  that  city.  Ten  years  elapsed  before 
it  recovered  from  the  derangement  of  industry,  and 
the  extravagant  habits  fostered  by  the  war. 

"  A  few  regiments  were  raised  in  the  Maritime 
Provinces,  their  militia  was  organized,  and  some 
drafts  from  the  interior  were  brought  in  to  defend 
Halifax,  whence  the  expeditions  against  the  French 
Islands  and  the  State  of  Maine  were  fitted  out.  Can- 
ada alone  was  invaded  in  force. 

"  General  Smith  describes  the  conduct  of  the  Cana- 
dian militia  in  the  few  but  weighty  words  that  be- 
come a  sagacious  military  chieftain  pronouncing  a 
judgment  on  the  facts  of  history. 

"  '  In  1812  the  Republicans  attacked  Canada  with 
two  corps,  amounting  in  the  whole  to  13,300  men. 
The  British  troops  in  the  Province  were  but  4500,  of 
which  3000  were  in  garrison  at  Quebec  and  Mont- 
real. But  1500  could  be  spared  for  the  defence  of 
Upper  Canada.  From  the  capi:ure  of  Michilimaci- 
nac,  the  first  blow  of  the  campaign,  down  to  its 
close,  the  Canadian  militia  took  their  share  in  every 
military  operation.  French  and  English  vied  with 
each  other  in  loyalty,  steadiness,  and  discipline. 

" '  Of  the  force  that  captured  Detroit,  defended  by 
2500  men,  but  a  few  hundreds  were  regular  troops. 
Brock  had  but  1200  men  to  oppose  6300  on  the 
Niagara  frontier.  Half  his  force  were  Canadian  mi- 
litia, yet  he  confronted  the  enemy,  and,  in  the  gallant 
action  in  which  he  lost  his  life,  left  an  imperishable 
record  of  the  steady  discipline  with  which  Canadians 
can  defend  their  country. 

"  *  The  invading  army  of  yeomen  sent  to  attack 
Montreal  were  as  stoutly  opposed  by  a  single  brigade 


172 


CANADA. 


■.  k'i 


of  British  troops,  aided  by  the  militia.  In  the  only 
action  which  took  place  the  Canadians  alone  were 
engaged.  The  enemy  was  beaten  back,  and  went 
into  winter  quarters. 

" '  In  1813,  Canada  was  menaced  by  three  separate 
corps.  The  Niagara  district  was  for  a  time  overrun, 
and  York,  the  capital  of  the  Upper  Province,  was 
taken  and  burnt.  The  handful  of  British  troops  tliat 
could  be  spared  from  England's  European  wars, 
were  inadequate  to  its  defence ;  but  in  every  {struggle 
of  the  campaign,  disastrous  or  triumphant,  the  Cana- 
dian militia  had  their  share.  The  French  fought 
with  equal  gallantry  in  the  Lower  Province.  At 
Chateaugay,  Colonel  de  Salaberry  showed  what 
could  be  done  with  those  poor,  undisciplined  colo- 
nists, who,  it  is  now  the  fashion  to  tell  us,  can  only 
be  made  good  for  anything  by  withdrawing  them 
from  their  farms  and  turning  them  into  regular  sol- 
diers. The  American  general  had  a  force  of  7000 
infantry,  10  field-pieces,  and  250  cavalry.  De  Sala- 
berry disputed  their  passage  into  the  country  he  loved, 
with  1000  bayonets,  beat  them  back,  and  has  left 
behind  a  record  of  more  value  in  this  argument 
than  a  dozen  pamphlets  or  ill-natured  speeches  in 
parliament.' 

"  When  the  independence  of  the  United  States 
was  established  in  1783,  they  were  left  with  one  half 
of  the  continent,  and  you  with  the  other.  You  had 
much  accumulated  wealth  and  an  overflowing  poivn- 
iation.  They  were  three  millions  of  people,  poor,  in 
debt,  with  their  country  ravaged  and  their  commerce 
disorganized.  By  the  slightest  effort  of  statesman- 
ship you  could  have  planted  your  surplus  population 
in  your  own  provinces,  and,  in  five  years,  the  stream 
of  emigration  would  have  been  flowing  the  right 
way.  In  twenty  years  the  British  and  Republican 
forces  would  have  been  equalized.  But  you  did 
nothing,  or  often  worse  than  nothing.  From  1784 
to  1841,  we  were  ruled  by  little  paternal  despotisms 


f 
\ 
\ 


IMPERIAL  APATHY. 


173 


established  in  this  country.  We  could  not  chanj^e 
an  oHicer,  reduce  a  salary,  or  impose  a  duty,  with- 
out the  permission  of  Downing  Street.  For  all  tiiat 
dreary  period  of  sixty  years,  the  Republicans  gov- 
erned themselves,  and  you  governed  us.  They  had 
uniform  duties  and  free  trade  with  each  other.  We 
always  had  separate  taritfs,  and  have  them  to  this 
day.  They  controlled  their  foreign  relations — you 
controlled  ours.  They  had  their  ministers  and  con- 
suls all  over  the  world,  to  open  new  markets,  and 
secure  commercial  advantages.  Your  ministers  and 
consuls  knew  little  of  British  America,  and  rarely 
consulted  its  interests.  Till  the  advent  of  Huskis- 
son,  our  commerce  was  cramped  by  all  the  vices  of 
the  old  colonial  system.  The  Republicans  could 
open  mines  in  any  part  of  their  country.  Our  mines 
were  locked  up,  until  seven  years  ago,  by  a  close 
monopoly  held  in  this  country  by  the  creditors  of  the 
Duke  of  York.  How  few  of  the  hundreds  of  thou- 
sands of  Englishmen,  who  gazed  at  Nova  Scotia's 
marvellous  column  of  coal  in  the  Exhibition,  this 
summer,  but  would  have  blushed  had  they  known 
that  for  half  a  century  the  Nova  Scotians  could  not 
dig  a  ton  of  their  own  coal  without  asking  permis- 
sion of  half  a  dozen  English  capitalists  in  the  city  of 
London.  How  few  Englishmen  now^  reflect,  when 
riding  over  the  rich  and  populous  States  of  Illinois, 
Michigan,  Missouri,  and  Arkansas,  that  had  they  not 
locked  up  their  great  west,  and  turned  it  into  a  hunt- 
ing-ground, which  it  is  now,  we  might  have  had  be- 
hind Canada,  three  or  four  magnificent  provinces, 
enlivened  by  the  industry  of  millions  of  British  sub- 
jects, toasting  the  Queen's  health  on  their  holidays, 
and  making  the  vexed  question  of  the  defence  of  our 
frontiers  one  of  very  easy  soluiion. 

"  When  the  Trent  atfair  aroused  the  indignant 
feeling  of  the  empire  last  autumn,  we  were  —  as  we 
were  in  1812  —  utterly  unprepared.  The  war  agjiin 
was  none  of  our  seeking. 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


1.0 


I.I 


2.0 


1.8 


1.25     1.4    III  1.6 

^ 

6" 

► 

V2 


^ 


n 


/ 


5S 


7 


Photographic 

Sdences 

Corporation 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

(716)  873-4503 


^ 
^ 


174 


CANADA. 


ml' ' 
I" 


"  Nova  Scotia  and  New  Brunswick  had  thousands 
of  vessels  upon  the  sea,  scattered  all  over  the  world. 
Canada  had  her  thousand  miles  of  frontier  unpro- 
tected. Had  war  come,  we  knew  that  our  money- 
losses  would  have  been  fearful,  and  the  scenes  upon 
our  sea-coasts  and  our  frontiers,  sternly  painted  as 
they  must  C3cur,  without  any  stretch  of  the  imagina- 
tion, might  well  bid  the  '  boldest  hold  his  breath  for 
a  time.'  But,  did  a  single  man  in  all  those  noble 
provinces  falter  ?  No  I  Every  man,  ay,  every  woman 
accepted  the  necessity,  and  prepared  for  war. 

"  Again  it  was  a  question  of  honor,  and  not  of 
interest.  In  a  week  we  could  have  arranged,  by 
negotiation,  for  peace  with  the  United  States,  and 
have  kept  out  of  the  quarrel.  But  who  thought  of 
such  a  thing  ?  Your  homesteads  were  safe  ;  ours  in 
peril.  A  British  —  not  a  colonial  ship  —  had  been 
boarded ;  but  what  then  ?  The  old  flag  that  had 
floated  over  our  fathers'  heads,  and  droops  over  their 
graves,  had  been  insulted ;  and  our  British  blood  was 
stirred  —  without  our  ever  thinking  of  our  pockets. 
The  spirit  and  unanimity  of  the  provinces,  no  less 
than  the  fine  troops  and  war  material  shipped  from 
this  country,  worked  like  a  charm  at  Wasliington. 
President  Lincoln,  like  Governor  Fairfield,  saw 
clearly  that  he  was  to  be  confronted  not  only  by  the 
finest  soldiers  in  the  world,  but  by  a  united  and  high- 
spirited  population.  The  effect  was  sedative;  the 
captives  were  given  up.  And  the  provincials  —  as 
is  their  habit  when  there  is  no  danger  to  confront  — 
returned  to  their  peaceful  avocations." 

It  may  be  necessary  to  make  some  allowance  for 
the  tinge  of  colonial  patriotism  in  this  passage,  but 
after  all  the  Hon.  J.  Howe  is  a  transplanted  English- 
man. He  speuivs  with  the  voice  of  some  millions  of 
people,  and  we  must  listen  to  it,  or  be  prepared  for  a 
good  deal  of  lukewarnmess  or  "  disloyalty."  I  have 
avoided  any  reference  to  the  disputes  which  broke 
out  into  rebellion  in  1837,  because  no  useful  end 


thousands 
the  world, 
ler  unpro- 
ur  money 
enes  upon 
>ainted  as 
I  imagina- 
breath  for 
lose  noble 
ry  woman 
ar. 

id  not  of 
anged,  by 
)tates,  and 
bought  of 
e;  ours  in 
•  had  been 

that   had 

1  over  their 

blood  was 

ir  pockets. 

es,  no  less 

pped  from 

[ashington. 

ield,    saw 

ily  by  the 

and  high- 
lative;  the 
Icials  —  as 
lonfront  — 

ance  for 

|ssage,  but 

English- 

illions  of 

ared  for  a 

»"     I  have 

ich  broke 

seful  end 


THE  FUTURE. 


175 


would  be  gained  by  an  account  of  an  unfortunate 
schism  which  was  produced  by  want  of  judgment  on 
the  part  of  the  Government  at  home,  and  by  the  ex- 
treme fanaticism  of  a  party  in  the  province.  But  the 
fanaticism  has  in  no  small  degree  been  justified  by 
what  has  since  taken  place.  When  "  rebels "  are 
pardoned,  it  may  be  a  proof  that  the  government 
which  pardons  is  strong  and  generous.  When  "  reb- 
els "are  not  only  restored  to  civic  rights,  but  are 
invested  with  office,  it  is  almost  a  demonstration  that 
the  government  which  permits  them  to  exercise  im- 
portant functions  under  it,  was  in  error  in  the  contest 
which  drove  these  men  to  resistance.  The  rebellion 
in  Canada  had,  however,  nothing  to  do  with  the  great 
question  we  are  now  discussing.  We  are  approach- 
ing the  larger  subject,  which  is  opened  by  the  con- 
sideration of  the  arguments  which  are  used  by  Im- 
perialists and  Colonists  in  their  controversy  respecting 
the  magnitude  and  relation  of  the  empire  and  the 
colony  in  war. 

It  becomes  of  high  practical  value  to  consider  what 
Canada  can  do,  and  what  Canada  has  done  in  the 
direction  of  self-defence,  should  she  be  threatened 
with  war,  either  from  imperial  or  colonial  causes. 
It  can  be  no  satisfaction  to  Canada  to  become  a  fief 
of  the  new  Federal  quasi  -  republic  because  Great 
Britain  failed  in  her  duty ;  and  all  the  references  to 
the  patriotism  and  exertions  of  valor  of  Canadians 
in  past  times,  would  reflect  all  the  greater  discredit 
on  them  now,  when  they  enjoy  rights  and  privileges 
unknown  to  their  hardy  ancestors.  Let  us  first  see 
what  her  resources  and  defensive  powers  are,  and 
then  cast  a  glance  at  what  Canada  and  the  British 
Provinces  in  North  America  have  got  to  defend. 
The  only  military  force  Canada  can  employ  is  the 
militia.  Her  present  proud  position  should  induce 
the  people  of  Canada  to  make  every  effort  to  pre- 
serve the  conditions  under  which  they  enjoy  so  much 


,  ^      H 


.5 


1         I 


176 


CANADA. 


liberty,  happiness,  and  prosperity ;  but  she  has  in  the 
future  a  heritage  of  priceless  value,  which  she  holds 
in  trust  for  the  great  nation  that  must  yet  sit  en- 
throned on  the  Lakes  and  the  St.  Lawrence,  and  rule 
from  Labrador  to  Columbia. 


if 


'!'\ 


THE  MILITIA. 


177 


CHAPTER  XII. 


The  Militia.  — American  Intentions.  —  Instability  of  the  Volunteer  Princi- 
ple.—  The  Drilling  of  Militia.  —  The  Commission  of  1862.  — The  Duke 
of  Newcastle's  Views.  —  Militia  Schemes. —  Volunteer  Force.  —  Apathy 
of  the  French  Canadians.  —  The  First  Summons. 


In  a  country  situated  as  Canada  is,  witliout  well- 
defined  obligations  as  regards  the  sovereign  power, 
there  can  be  but  two  kinds  of  military  force  available 
for  defence  —  a  militia  and  an  organization  of  volun- 
teers. The  first  is  essentially  the  proper  constitu- 
tional force  on  which  Canada  must  mainly  rely  in 
case  of  invasion.  The  second,  notwithstanding  its 
enormous  importance  and  value,  is  but  accidental. 
Unless  Canada  assumed  towards  us  the  relations  of 
a  protected  state,  like  India,  and  raised  an  army  offi- 
cered by  the  British,  such  as  was  that  of  Oude,  or 
as  that,  to  a  certain  extent,  of  some  states  at  the 
present  day,  her  volunteers  could  have  no  fixed  and 
adequate  value  in  a  general  scheme  of  defence.  The 
Canadian  militia  must  constitute  the  chief  strength 
of  Canada  in  operations  on  her  territory.  It  would 
be  impossiblf  for  Great  Britain  to  do  more  than  pro- 
vide officers,  money,  arms,  artillery,  and  ammunition 
—  perhaps  the  h(!ad  and  backbone  of  the  force  which 
would  be  needet!  for  a  large  system  of  campaigns. 
The  only  enemy  Canada  has  to  fear  is  the  Northern 
Republic.  I  am  quite  willing  to  do  every  justice  to 
the  moderation  of  Mr.  Seward,  and  to  the  pacific 
policy  of  Mr.  Lincoln,  but  it  cannot  be  disputed  that 
the  strength  of  the  central  Government  will  be  much 
diminished  on  the  cessation  of  the  present  conflict, 
and  that  whatever  way  it  ends  the  Cabinet  of  Wash- 
ington will  be  little  able  to  oppose  the  passions  of 
the  people  in  the  crisis  which  peace,  whether  it  be 


u 


178 


CANADA. 


m 

'.'4', 

m 


if 


!    K 


i  i\j 


P 


wf  ■ 


ll 


one  of  humiliation  or  of  triumph,  will  bring  with  it. 
Passion,  the  passion  wrought  of  pride,  love  of  do- 
minion, national  feeling,  and  the  like,  is  far  stronger 
than  the  silken  bond  of  commerce.  There  is  danger 
of  war  with  Great  Britain  as  soon  as  this  war  in 
America  is  over  ;  and  the  question  is,  how  far  Canada 
will  be  able  to  aid  herself?  Because,  if  she  does  not 
contribute  largely  to  her  own  defence,  it  seems  cer- 
tain that  British  statesmen  will  not  strive  very  stren- 
uously to  avert  her  doom.  At  the  moment  I  write 
there  is  not,  in  a  state  of  organized  efficiency,  one 
regiment  of  militia  in  the  length,  which  is  great,  and 
the  breadth,  which  is  small,  of  Canada.  Party  vio- 
lence has  set  at  nought  all  warnings  and  all  solicita- 
tious.  The  Canadians  appear  to  rely  on  the  tradi- 
tions of  the  past,  and  on  the  result  of  the  small 
campaigns  in  the  war  with  America,  without  any 
appreciation  of  the  vast  changes  which  have  taken 
place  since.  Northern  Americans,  reaching  their 
boundaries  with  pain  and  many  a  toilsome  march, 
filtered  small  corps  upon  their  soil  —  far  inferior  in 
numbers  and  equipment  to  those  which  now  repre- 
sent the  quota  of  the  smallest  State  in  the  Union.  In 
my  letters  from  America  I  called  attention  to  the 
significant  fact  that  the  northernmost  point  of  the 
territory  claimed  by  the  Southern  Confederacy  was 
within  120  miles  of  the  lake  which  forms  the  southern 
boundary  of  Canada.  It  may  not  be  likely  that 
the  Confederacy  will  ever  make  good  its  claim  to 
Western  Virginia,  and  fix  its  standard  in  undisturbed 
supremacy  at  Wheeling,  but  it  is  nevertheless  true 
that  a  strong  passionate  instinct  urges  the  people  of 
the  North  to  consolidate  the  States  of  the  West  and 
those  of  the  East  by  the  absorption  of  Canada,  which, 
with  its  lakes  and  its  St.  Lawrence,  would  be  ample 
recompense  for  the  loss  of  the  South ;  and,  with  the 
South  in  the  Union,  would  be  the  consummation  of 
the  dream  of  empire  in  which  Americans  wide-awake 
pass  their  busy  restless  lives.     The  Americans  are 


MILITARY   RESOURCES   OF  CANADA. 


179 


;ncans  are 


well  aware  of  the  vast  advantage  of  striking  a  sud- 
den blow.  The  whole  subject  of  Canadian  invasion 
lies  developed  in  well-considered  papers  in  the  bureau- 
drawers  of  Washington.  At  the  time  of  the  Trent 
affair  I  was  assured  by  an  officer  high  in  rank  in  the 
Government  that  General  Winfield  Scott  hud  come 
back  from  France  solely  to  give  the  State  the  benefit 
of  his  counsels  and  experience  in  conducting  an 
invasion  of  Canada;  and  I  cannot  think  it  doubtful 
that  the  Federal  Government  would,  in  four  or  five 
weeks  after  a  declaration  of  war  with  England,  be 
prepared  to  pour  120,000  or  150,000  men  across  the 
British  frontier.  What  has  Canada  done  to  meet 
the  danger  ?  In  May,  1862,  the  Honorable  John 
Macdonald  proposed  that  a  minimum  of  30,000  men 
or  a  maximum  of  50,000  men  should  be  enrolled  and 
drilled  for  one  month  every  year  for  three  or  for  five 
years,  but  it  was  considered  that  Canada  could  not 
spare  so  large  a  number  of  men  from  the  pursuits  of 
trade,  and  above  all  of  agriculture,  during  the  open 
season  when  drill  would  be  practicable.  The  meas- 
ure was  rejected.  Mr.  Sandfield  Macdonald,  after 
the  failure  of  this  proposal,  introduced  and  carried  a 
measure  which  gave  the  Government  a  permissive 
power  to  call  out  the  unmarried  militiamen  for  sbc 
days'  drill  in  every  year,  and  which  provided  that 
militia  officers  might  be  attached  to  the  regular  regi- 
ments serving  in  Canada  for  two  months  every  year, 
in  order  to  learn  their  duties.  By  the  fundamental 
law  of  Canada  the  Government  has  the  power  of 
calling  out  in  time  of  war,  first,  all  eligible  unmarried 
men  betv/een  18  and  45  years  of  age;  secondly, 
married  men  between  18  and  45  ;  and  finally,  those 
males  fit  to  carry  arms  between  45  and  60  years  of 
age.  Under  these  laws  Canada  should  have  a  force 
of  470,000  men  available  for  service,  and  of  these 
there  are  actually  on  the  muster-rolls  of  the  militia 
197,000  unmarried  men  between  18  and  31  years  of 
age,  whose  service  would  be  compulsory  in  case  of 


180 


CANADA. 


■  i 


1 

V 

i 

'     .-■ 

''f 

.  v '. 

} 

\         I 

*v 

i 


need.  The  Canadian  Parliament  voted  half  a  tnillioii 
of  dollars  in  each  of  tlie  years  1863  and  18()4  for 
military  purposes,  but  the  greater  proportion  of  thcise 
sums  was  expended  on  the  volunteers  and  on  the 
staff  of  the  militia.  'JMiere  has  been  no  adequate 
return  for  the  heavy  drain  such  a  sum  causes  on  the 
Provincial  exchequer.  The  best  commentary  on  the 
voluntary  system  in  militia  drills  is  to  be  found  in 
the  fact  that  less  than  10,000  men  have  been  in 
attendance  on  them. 

With  the  experience  we  have  had  of  the  unstable 
character  of  volunteer  forces  in  the  field,  it  is  not 
prudent  for  Canada  to  rely  on  her  volunteers  so  much 
as  she  does.  They  have  within  their  very  body  the 
seeds  of  dissolution.  Some  corps  can  decree  their 
disbandment  at  two  months',  others  at  six  months' 
notice  —  in  other  words,  they  may  melt  away  at  the 
very  crisis  of  the  war.  Does  American  volunteering 
teach  us  nothing?  In  all  human  probability  the 
South  would  have  been  struck  to  tlib  earth  at  the  first 
battle  of  Bull  Run,  if  the  Pennsylvania  volunteers 
had  not  presented  to  the  world  the  extraordinary 
and  disgraceful  spectacle  of  whole  battalions  under 
arms  marching  off  from  the  field,  as  their  unfortunate 
General  McDowell  expressed  it,  *'  to  the  sound  of  the 
enemy's  guns."  That  was  no  isolated  case.  The 
desertion,  at  the  same  time,  of  other  volunteer  bat- 
talions under  the  equally  unfortunate  General  Pat- 
terson in  the  Shenandoah  Valley,  left  him  unable  to 
prevent  the  Confederate  General  Johnston  marching 
with  all  his  men  to  the  aid  of  Beauregard.  Over 
and  over  again  the  Federal  leaders  have  been 
paralyzed  by  similar  defection 5^,  and  it  was  not  till 
they  became  strong  enough  to  hold  the  volunteers  by 
force,  as  Meade  did  before  he  made  his  attempt 
against  Richmond,  that  the  evil  was  cured.  Had 
the  Federals  gained  Bull  Run,  they  were  ready  to 
have  marched  on  Richmond  at  once  —  they  would 
have  found  the  city  defenceless,  and  the  South  dis- 


rUOI'OUTlUN    OF    LULJAX    AND   iilllXL   MILITIA.     181 


'a  million 
18(U  for 
n  of  ihnse 
id  on  tliu 
adequate 
scs  on  the 
iry  on  the 
;  found  in 
e  been  in 

e  unstable 
,  it   is  not 
rs  so  much 
y  body  the 
ecrec  their 
ix  months' 
way  at  the 
)lunteering 
ability  the 
at  the  first 
volunteers 
raordinavy 
tons  under 
nfortunate 
und  of  the 
ase.     The 
nteer  bat- 
neral  Pat- 
unable  to 
marching 
d.       Over 
ave    been 
,s  not  till 
unteers  by 
is   attempt 
•ed.     Had 
ready  to 
ey  would 
ISouth  dis- 


organized. Such  a  proof  of  Federal  power  as  a  de- 
er ve  victory  would,  I  believe,  from  what  I  saw  in 
tht,  South,  have  crushed  the;  Secession  party,  and 
have  strengthened  the  adherents  of  the  Union,  who 
were  then  numerous  in  many  of  the  States.  It  might 
not  have  stopped  the  civil  war,  but  it  would  have 
certainly  given  the  most  enormous  pi'"pon(leranco  to 
the  North.  The  defeat  mainly  caused  by  McDowell's 
weakness  in  men,  and  the  reinforcements  received 
by  the  enemy  in  consequence  of  Patterson's  inability 
to  hinder  their  arrival,  which  was  caused  by  the 
wholesale  disbandment  of  volunteers,  gave  such  an 
impetus  to  the  Confederates,  that  their  principle  was 
carried  triumphantly  over  the  States,  and  crushed  all 
opj)osition.  We  have  seen  what  that  defeat  has 
cost  the  Federals  since.  In  Canada  the  volunteers 
belong  almost  exclusively  to  the  urban  population  — 
only  a  fifth  come  from  rural  districts  ;  and  as  the 
towns  in  Canada  are  very  small,  it  >s  plain  that  the 
volunteer  system  would  operate  very  injuriously  on 
the  trade  of  the  cities,  and  would  in  all  likelihood 
break  down,  without  any  imputation  on  the  courage 
and  patriotism  of  the  townsmen.  It  is,  of  course, 
beyond  the  power  of  Canada  to  cope  with  the  people 
of  the  United  States  single-handed,  but  the  agencies 
which  England  could  bring  to  bear  against  the  enemy 
on  the  American  seaboard,  and  on  all  the  seas  fur- 
rowed oy  her  ships,  would  damp  the  ardor  which 
the  Northerners  would  exhibit  at  the  first  onslaught. 
It  would  be,  no  doubt,  a  very  deplorable  and  a  very 
disgraceful  contest,  but  Great  Britain  would  not  be 
responsible  for  the  beginning  of  hostilities. 

Just  in  proportion  to  the  celerity  and  magnitude 
of  their  first  successes,  would  be  the  efforts  of  the 
Americans  to  secure  their  conquest.  It  is  far  easier 
to  repel  than  to  expel.  A  handful  of  militia,  ill- 
drilled,  supported  by  a  similar  force  of  volunteers  of 
similar  inefficiency,  could  offer  no  resistance  to  the 
warms   of  invaders,  and   would    but   increase   the 

9 


182 


CANADA. 


h^ 


I   t 


M 


stress  to  which  the  little  army  of  Queen's  troops 
in  garrivson  here  and  there  would  be  subjected  at  the 
outbreak  of  war.  To  all  argument  and  entreaty,  to 
insinuations  and  menace,  Canada  opposes  the  grand 
simplicity  of  her  non  possunius.  She  is  burdened 
with  debt,  and  even  without  any  expenditure  for  the 
militia  her  outlay  is  considerably  more  than  her 
income.  A  party  in  Canada  called  for  a  regular 
agi'eement  with  the  Government  at  home  to  regulate 
the  amount  to  be  paid  by  Canada,  and  the  troops  to 
be  furnished  by  her,  as  a  part  of  the  British  Empire. 
These  troops  were  to  consist  of  militia  of  the  tirst 
class,  to  be  drilled  by  detachments  in  each  succeed- 
ing year,  till  the  whole  number,  whether  it  were 
50,000  or  100,000,  should  be  properly  disciplined. 
It  was  proposed  by  some  advocates  of  this  scheme 
that  each  body  of  militia  should  be  called  out  for 
six  months ;  and  that  when  that  period  expired  the 
men  should  b^  entitled  to  immunity  from  further 
drills  till  war  broke  out,  when  they  would  become 
liable  for  ten  years'  service,  after  which  they  would 
go  into  a  reserve  only  to  be  used  in  great  emer- 
gencies. 

Many  modes  of  raising,  maintaining,  and  drilling 
this  force  have  been  suggested ;  but  as  the  principle 
was  not  adopted  they  are  scarcely  worth  discussing. 
Drills  for  short  periods  are  certainly  of  little  or  no 
avail ;  and  if  money  cannot  be  borrowed  to  put 
100,000  men  in  a  state  of  readiness,  the  organization 
of  50,000  men  to  be  drilled  for  three  months  in  each 
year  in  bodies  of  12,000  or  15,000  does  not  seem  at 
all  unreasonable.  The  rate  of  wages  in  Canada  is 
very  high,  and  the  lowest  estimate  for  the  support, 
pay,  and  clothing  of  a  militiaman  for  six  months 
comes  to  about  20/.  per  man.  It  is,  therefore,  a  sim- 
ple sum  in  multiplication  to  arrive  at  the  ultimate 
figure  of  Canadian  possumus  in  regard  to  the  paying 
power  of  the  Provinces.  It  is  not  true  that  if  one 
man  can  be  kept  for  20/.  for  six  months  two  men 


RELATIONS  OF  CANADA  TO   GREAT  BRITAIN.      183 


I's  troops 
ted  at  the 
itre.ity,  to 
the  grand 

burdened 
are  lor  the 

than    her 


a 


regular 


to  regulate 
t*  troops  to 
jh  Empire. 
3f  the  tirst 
;h  succeed- 
er  it   were 
disciplined, 
his  scheme 
lied  out  for 
expired  the 
lom  further 
ild  become 
they  would 
eat  emer- 

land  drilling 
le  principle 
discussing. 
Ilittle  or  no 
red  to  put 
organization 
iths  in  each 
iiot  seem  at 
Canada  is 
.he  support, 
[six  months 
Wore,  a  sim- 
|he  ultimate 
the  paying 
that  if  one 
Is  two   men 


can  be  kept  for  the  same  sum  for  three  months. 
The  levy  of  ^OjOuO  militiamen  for  six  month-  would 
cost  Canada,  if  she  wer(^  alone,  one  million  sterling. 
Mr.  Cartwri^ht  has  pointed  out  that  Canada  could 
discipline  100,000  militia,  with  half  a  year's  instruc- 
tion each,  for  as  much  as  would  support  a  standing 
army  of  2000  men  for  the  same  period.  We  may 
be  very  angry  with  the  Canadians  for  their  happy 
security.  It  is  not  so  very  long  ago  since  the 
Duke's  letters  to  Sir  John  Burgoyne  startled  us  out 
of  a  similar  insouciance.  We  may  feel  that  the 
sudden  development  of  the  United  States  has  placed 
us  in  a  very  doubtful  military  position.  It  is  not  so 
easy  to  shake  off  the  obligations  incurred  by  conquest 
and  by  emigration  under  the  flag  of  Great  Britain. 
In  the  face  of  very  frigid  warnings  from  the  press, 
and  very  lukewarm  enunciations  of  policy  from  her 
best  friends,  Canada  had  some  reason  to  fear  that 
there  is  a  secret  desire  "  to  let  her  slide,"  and  that 
nothing  would  please  England  so  much  as  a  happy 
chance  which  placed  the  Provinces  beyond  our  care 
without  humiliation  or  war. 

The  duty  of  Canadians  to  their  own  country  i* 
very  plain  indeed  if  the  people  of  England  refuse  to 
give  them  distinct  guarantees  that  under  certain  con- 
ditions they  will  give  them  the  v^^hole  aid  of  money, 
men,  and  ships  that  is  required ;  but  these  guaran- 
tees are  implied  in  the  very  fact  of  suzerainty  of  the 
Crown.  It  must,  however,  be  made  known  —  if  it  be 
not  plain  to  every  Englishman  —  that  the  abandon- 
ment of  Canada  implies  a  surrender  of  British  Colum- 
bia, of  New  Brunswick,  Nova  Scotia,  Prince  Ed- 
ward's, Newfoundland,  if  not  also  the  West  India 
Islands.  Many  bitter  words  written  and  spoken  here 
rankle  in  the  breasts  of  the  Canadians,  and  I  have 
quoted  the  words  in  which  a  Canadian  statesman  has 
placed  before  Englishmen  the  terrible  consequences 
which  Canada  may  suffer  from  war,  because  she  is 
a  part  of  the  British  Empire,  engaged  in  a  quarrel 


184 


CANADA, 


i 


■■;  : 


'^ 


on  imperial  gronndrt  with  the  Government  of  the 
United  States.  We  do  undoubt(uily  owe  sometliing 
to  Canada,  from  the  bare  fact  tiiat  for  many  years 
she  resisted  temptation,  and  rtunained  under  our  (lag 
unmoved  by  the  blandishments  and  ti  rcats  of  the 
United  States.  In  my  poor  judgment  the  abandon- 
ment of  Canachi  would  be  the  most  signal  triumph 
of  the  prinei|)le  of  democracy,  and  the  most  pregnant 
sign  of  the  decadence  of  the  British  Empires  which 
could  be  desired  by  our  enemies.  No  matter  by 
what  sophistry  or  by  what  expedi(!ney  justified,  tlio 
truth  would  crop  out  througfi  the  fact  itself  that  we 
were  retiring  as  the  Romans  did  from  Britain,  Gaul, 
and  Dacia,  but  that  the  retreat  would  be  made  in  the 
face  of  united  and  civilized  enemies,  and  tlr.it  the 
sound  of  our  recall  would  animate  every  natioVi  in 
the  world  to  come  forth  and  despoil  us. 

As  yet  there  is  no  reason  for  such  a  pusillanimous 
policy. 

The  Commission  of  1862  laid  it  down  as  their 
opinion  that  an  active  force  of  50,000,  with  a  reserve 
of  the  same  number,  would  be  required  for  Canada ; 
but  as  the  bill  founded  on  their  report  did  not  become 
law,  the  Canadian  Government  had  no  power  to 
borrow  arms  from  the  Home  Government  for  the 
whole  number,  as  would  have  been  the  case  had  they 
passed  the  bill.  Lord  Monck,  however,  procured 
from  the  Home  Government  a  considerable  augmen- 
tation of  the  supplies  in  store  of  artillery,  small  arms, 
ammunition,  and  accoutrements.  But  the  rejection 
of  the  MUitia  Bill  of  1862  filled  the  Home  Govern- 
ment with  apprehension.  The  Duke  of  Newcastle, 
on  the  20th  of  August  of  that  year,  wrote  as  fol- 
lows :  — 

"  If  I  urge  upon  you  the  importance  of  speedily  re- 
suming measures  for  some  better  military  organiza- 
tion of  the  inhabitants  of  Canada  than  that  which 
now  exists,  it  must  not  be  supposed  that  Her  Maj- 
esty's Government  is    influenced  by  any  particular 


nnt  of  the 
Homothing 
tmny  ycnra 
er  our  Hag 
Jits   of  the 
.•  abaiuloii- 
iil  Iriiunph 
it  pregnant 
ipin^  which 
matter  by 
iHtitied,  the 
t'lf  that  we 
itain,  Gaul, 
riadc  in  the 
id   tliat  the 
y  natioVi  in 

Lsillanimous 

\vn  as  their 
th  a  reserve 
or  Canada ; 
not  become 
o   power  to 
ent  for   the 
so  had  they 
r,    procured 
le  augm en- 
small  arms, 
le  rejection 
ime  Govern- 
Newcastle, 
ote   as  foi- 

speedily  re- 

[y  organiza- 

that  which 

^t  Her  Maj- 

particular 


THE  DUKE  OF  NEWCASTF.E'S   VIEWS. 


185 


) 


apprehension  of  an  attack  on  t!ie  Colony  at  the 
present  motnent,  but  undoubtedly  tln^  necessity  for 
preparation  which  has  froui  time  to  time  been  urged 
by  successive  S(!cretari<?s  of  State  is  grt^atly  increased 
by  the  presence,  for  the  first  time  on  the  American 
Continent,  of  a  large  standing  army,  and  the  unset- 
tJed  condition  of  the  neighboring  States.  Moreover, 
the  growing  importance  of  the  ('olony,  and  its  attacli- 
ment  to  free  institutions,  make  it  every  day  more 
essential  that  it  should  possess  in  itself  that  without 
which  no  free  institutions  can  be  secure  —  adecpiate 
means  of  self-defence.  The  adecjuacy  of  thosi;  means 
is  materially  inlluenced  by  the  peculiar  position  of 
the  country.  Its  extent  of  frontier  is  such  that  it  can 
be  safe  only  when  its  population  capable  of  bearing 
arms  is  ready  and  competent  to  tight.  That  the 
population  is  ready,  no  one  will  venture  to  doubt ; 
that  it  cannot  be  competent,  is  no  less  certain,  until 
it  has  received  that  organization,  and  acquired  that 
habit  of  discipline  which  constitute  the  difl'erence 
between  a  trained  force  and  an  armed  mob.  The 
drill  required  in  the  regular  army,  or  even  in  the  best 
volunteer  battalion,  is  not  necessary,  nor  would  it 
be  possible,  in  a  country  like  Canada,  for  so  large  a 
body  of  men  as  ought  to  be  prepared  for  any  emer- 
gency ;  but  the  Government  should  be  able  to  avail 
itself  of  the  services  of  the  strong  and  healthy  por- 
tion of  the  male  adult  population  at  short  notice,  if 
the  dangers  of  invasion  by  an  already  organized  army 
are  to  be   provided  against. 

"  We  have  the  opinions  of  the  best  military  au- 
thorities, that  no  body  of  troops  which  England  could 
send  would  be  able  to  make  Canada  safe  without  the 
elficient  aid  of  the  Canadian  people.  Not  only  is  it 
impossible  to  send  sufficient  troops,  but  if  there  were 
four  times  the  numbers  which  we  are  now  main- 
taining in  British  North  America,  they  could  not 
secure  the  whole  of  the  frontier.  The  main  depend- 
ence of  such  a  country  must  be  upon  its  own  people. 


Ti 


W  "ST 


186 


CANADA. 


n 


The  irregular  forces  which  can  be  formed  from  the 
population,  know  the  passes  of  the  woods,  are  well 
acquainted  with  the  country,  its  roads,  its  rivers, 
its  defih^s ;  and  for  defensive  warfare  (for  aggression 
they  will  never  be  wanted),  would  be  far  more 
available  thnn  regular  soldiers. 

"It  is  not  therefore  the  unwillingness,  or  the  in- 
ability of  Her  Majesty's  Government  to  furnish  sulli- 
cient  troops,  but  the  useh^ssness  of  such  troops  with- 
out an  adequate  militia  force,  that  I  wish  vo  impress 
upon  you. 

"  In  your  despatch  of  the  17th  May  last,  you  in- 
formed me  that  there  were  then  14,760  volunteers 
enrolled,  besid(^s  others  who  had  been  more  or  less 
drilled.  It  is  far,  indeed,  from  my  intention  to  dis- 
credit either  the  zeal  or  the  efliciency  of  these  volun- 
teers, who  have,  I  hope,  greatly  increased  in  number 
since  the  date  of  your  d("spatch ;  but  they  constitute 
a  force  which  cannot  sutlice  for  Canada  in  the  event 
of  war.  They  might  form  an  admirable  small  con- 
tingent ;  but  what  would  be  required  would  be  a 
large  army.  They  might  form  a  force  stronger  than 
is  necessary  in  time  of  peace  to  secure  internal  tran- 
quillity, but  would  be  inadequate  to  repel  external 
attack  in  time  of  war.  Past  experience  shows  that 
no  reasonable  amount  of  encouragement  can  raise  the 
number  of  volunteers  to  the  required  extent. 

"  It  appears  to  me  that  the  smallest  number  of  men 
partially  drilled  which  it  would  be  essential  to  pro- 
vide within  a  given  time,  is  50,000.  The  renidinder 
of  the  militia  would  of  course  be  liable  to  be  called 
upon  in  an  emergency.  Perhaps  the  best  course 
would  be,  to  drill  every  year  one  or  more  companies 
of  each  battalion  of  the  sedentary  militia.  In  this 
maniHT  the  training  of  a  large  number  of  men  might 
be  eli'eeled,  and  all  companies  so  drilled  should,  once 
at  least  in  two  years,  if  not  in  each  year,  be  exercised 
in  battalion  drill,  so  as  to  keep  up  their  training. 

"  I  put  forward  these  suggestions  for  the  considera- 


TIIF  DUKn  OF  NEWCASTLE'S   VIEWS. 


187 


lion  of  the  Canadian  Government  and  Parliament, 
hut  Her  Majesty's  CJovernment  have  no  desire  to 
dicilate  Jis  to  details,  or  to  interfere;  with  tlie  internal 
government  of  tht;  Colony.  Their  only  object  is  so 
to  assist  and  gnidc  its  action  in  the  matter  of  the 
militia  as  to  make  that  forcf  eflicient  at  the  least 
possible  cost  to  the  Proviiiv  c  and  to  the  mother- 
country. 

"  The  Canadian  Government  will  doubtless  be 
fully  alive  to  the  important  fact  that  a  well-organized 
systiun  of  militia  will  contribute  much  towards  sus- 
taining the  high  position  with  reference  to  pecuniary 
ciedit,  which,  in  spite  of  its  large  debt,  and  its  dcffi- 
cient  revenue  for  the  past  few  years,  the  Colony  has 
hitherto  held  in  the  money  markets  of  P^urope.  A 
country  which,  however  unjustly,  is  suspected  of 
inability  or  indisposition  to  provide  for  its  own  de- 
fence, does  not,  in  the  present  circumstances  of 
Anu^rica,  offer  a  tempting  iield  for  investment  in  pub- 
lic funds  or  the  outlay  of  private  capital.  Men  ques- 
tion the  stable  condition  of  affliirs  in  a  land  which  is 
not  competent  to  protect  itself. 

"  It  may,  no  doubt,  be  argued  on  the  other  hand, 
that  t!ie  increased  charge  of  a  militia  would  diminish 
rather  than  enlarge  the  credit  of  the  Colony.  I  am 
convinced  that  such  would  not  be  the  case,  if  steps 
were  taken  for  securing  a  basis  of  taxation  sounder 
in  itself  than  the  almost  exclusive  reliance  on  cus- 
toms duties.  It  is  my  belief  that  a  step  in  this  di- 
rection would  not  only  supply  funds  for  the  militia, 
but  would  remove  all  apprehension  which  exists  as 
to  the  resources  of  the  Colony. 

"  Whatever  other  steps  may  be  taken  for  the  im- 
*  proved  organization  of  the  militia,  it  appears  to  Her 
Majesty's  Government  to  be  of  essential  importance 
that  its  administration,  and  the  supply  of  funds  for 
its  support,  should  be  exempt  from  the  disturbing 
action  of  ordinary  politics.  Unless  this  be  done  there 
can  be  no  confidence   that,  in  the  appointm(;nt  of 


«v 


1!^ 


-mm'mi^.m'm^mfp 


188 


CANADA. 


Ki 


1 


11 


11       ':■ 


Mm 


"I'i 


^i'll 


officers,  and  in  other  matters  of  a  purely  military 
character,  no  other  object  than  the  efficiency  of  the 
force  is  kept  in  view.  Were  it  not  that  it  might 
fairly  be  considered  too  great  an  interference  with 
the  privileges  of  the  representatives  of  the  ])eople,  ] 
should  be  inclined  to  suggest  that  the  charge  for  the 
militia,  or  a  certain  fixed  portion  of  it,  should  be 
defrayed  from  the  consolidated  fund  of  Canada,  or 
voted  for  a  period  of  three  or  five  years. 

"  It  has  further  occurred  to  me,  that  the  whole  of 
the  British  Provinces  on  the  continent  of  North  Amer- 
ica have,  in  this  matter  of  defence,  common  interests 
and  common  duties.  Is  it  impossible  that,  with  the 
free  consent  of  each  of  these  Colonies,  one  uniform 
system  of  militia  training  and  organization  should  be 
introduced  into  all  of  them  ?  The  numbers  of  men 
to  be  raised  and  trained  in  each  would  have  to  be 
fixed,  and  the  expenses  of  the  whole  would  bo  de- 
frayed from  a  common  fund,  contributed  in  fair  pro- 
portion by  each  of  the  Colonies.  If  the  Governor- 
General  of  Canada  were  Commander-in-Chief  of  the 
whole,  the  Lieutenant-Governors  of  the  other  Colonies 
would  act  as  Generals  of  Division  under  him  ;  but  it 
would  be  essential  that  an  Adjutant- General  of  the 
whole  force,  approved  by  Her  Majesty's  Government, 
should  move  to  and  fro,  as  occasion  might  require,  so 
as  to  give  uniformity  to  the  training  of  the  whole, 
and  cohesion  to  the  force  itself. 

"  As  such  a  scheme  would  affect  more  than  one 
Colony,  it  must,  of  course,  emanate  from  the  Secre- 
tary of  State,  but  Her  Majesty's  Government  would 
not  entertain  it  unless  they  were  convinced  that  it 
would  be  acceptable  both  to  the  people  of  Canada 
and  to  the  other  Colonies ;  and  they  desire  to  know, 
in  the  first  instance,  in  w^hat  light  any  such  plan 
would  be  viewed  by  the  members  of  your  Executive 
Council.  I  understand  that  the  Lieutenant-Gov- 
ernors of  Nova  Scotia  and  New  Jirunswick,  availing 
themselves  of  the  leave  of  absence  lately  accorded 


i§'i 


THE  MILITIA  SCHEME. 


189 


to  thorn,  intend  to  meet  you  in  Quebec  in  the  course 
of  the  ensuing  month.  This  visit  will  afford  you  a 
good  opportunity  for  consulting  them  upon  this  im- 
portant question. 

"  The  political  union  of  the  North  American 
Colonies  has  often  been  discussed.  The  merits  of 
that  measure,  and  the  difficulties  in  the  way  of  its 
accomplishment,  have  been  well  considered ;  but 
none  of  the  objections  which  oppose  it  seem  to 
impede  a  union  for  defence.  This  matter  is  one  in 
which  all  the  Colonies  have  interests  common  with 
each  other,  and  identical  with  the  policy  of  Eng- 
land." 

The  Government  of  the  day  presented  a  scheme 
which  was  rightly  characterized  by  Lord  Monck  as 
containing  no  principle  calculated  to  produce  effective 
results,  and  to  be  entirely  illusory  and  nugatory  as 
far  as  the  enrolment  of  the  militia  was  concerned. 
Lord  Monck  enclosed  the  heads  of  a  plan  for  the 
reorganization  and  increase  of  the  actwe  militia, 
based  mainly  on  the  voluntary  principle,  with  rules 
for  the  erection  of  armories,  drill-sheds,  and  rifle- 
rangers,  and  the  appointment  of  brigade-majors  and 
sergeants,  &c.,  and  other  means  of  a  perfect  organ- 
ization. The  scheme  was  to  raise  an  active  battal- 
ion for  each  territorial  division  of  the  country  corre- 
sponding with  the  regimental  district  of  the  sedentary 
militia,  to  be  increased  in  number  as  needed,  each 
active  battalion  to  be  taken  from  the  sub-division  of 
the  district.  Mr.  Macdonald  thought  no  Government 
could  exist  which  would  venture  to  recommend  the 
raising  of  50,000  partially  trained  militia,  although 
the  cost,  spread  over  five  years,  would  scarcely  exceed 
the  annual  appropriations.  In  fact,  at  the  root  of 
all  these  various  schemes  and  plans  lay  the  evi'  of 
uncertainty.  Canada  did  not  know  how  far  England 
would  go  in  her  defence,  and  seemed  fearful  of 
granting  anything,  lest  it  might  be  an  obligation 
which    the   mother-country  would    have    otherwise 

9* 


! 


190 


CANADA. 


i 


r 

'.     . 


i 


tl 


h!  i  ■ 

-It: 

!;l 

■■i  1   ' 
,'  i 


Hi: 


m 


I 

'H: 

Hi'J 


lllili 


incurred,  whilst  England,  by  withholding  any  definite 
promise,  or  indulging  only  in  vague  remonstrances, 
sought  to  make  the  Canadians  show  their  hands. 
Each  was  anxious  for  an  answer  to  the  question. 
"  How  much  will  you  give  us  ? "  The  Military 
Commissioners  reported  that  Canada  ought  to  pro- 
vide 150,000  men,  including  the  reserves,  which  force, 
large  as  it  is,  would  be  less  than  that  furnished  by 
states  of  smaller  population  in  the  Northern  Union ; 
but  Canada  is  very  poor,  and  not  unnaturally  makes 
the  most  of  the  argument  that  she  can  have  no  war 
of  her  own,  and  that  her  defence  should  be  our  affair. 
No  one,  I  apprehend,  will  allow  himself  to  be  beaten 
to  death  because  there  is  no  policeman  by. 

In  February,  1863,  a  report  of  the  state  of  the  mi- 
litia of  the  Province  was  prepared  by  Lieutenant- 
Colonel  de  Salaberry  and  Lieutenant-Colonel  Powell, 
of  the  Adjutant- General's  of  Militia  Department  in 
Lower  and  Upper  Canada,  respectively,  from  which 
it  appears  that  there  were  then  25,000  volunteers  or- 
ganized, of  whom  10,230  belonged  to  Lower,  and 
14,780  belonged  to  Upper  Canada.  Of  these  there 
were  pro:3ortionately  33  for  every  1000  in  the  cities, 
and  7i  for  every  1000  in  the  counties ;  those  in  the 
upper  section  contributing  less  than  those  in  the 
lower  section,  and  Upper  Canada  contributing  a  larger 
number  on  the  1000  than  Lower  Canada.  In  the 
enumeration  of  the  various  Cv,mpanies  —  field  bat- 
teries, troops  of  horse,  companies  of  artillery,  engi- 
neers, rifles,  infantry,  naval  and  marine  companies  — 
it  is  to  be  observed  tiiat  only  one  naval  company 
appears  as  having  performed  twelve  days'  drill. 
Some  steps  should  be  taken  to  develop  naval  and 
marine  companies  in  the  passes  along  the  shores 
of  the  lakes.  The  importance  of  having  trained 
sailors  and  gunners  stationed  just  where  they  are 
wanted  cannot   be  exasfserated,  but   it  is  n 


likely  that  Brigade- Majors  will  look    after   such 


very 


VOLUNTEER  FORCE. 


191 


ny  definite 
)nstrances, 
leir  hands. 
I  question. 
3    Military 
ght  to  pro- 
rhich  force, 
rnished  by 
3rn  Union ; 
ally  makes 
ive  no  war 
3  our  affair. 
)  be  beaten 
r. 

:  of  the  n[>i- 
Ljieutenant- 
mel  Powell, 
)artment  in 
from  which 
lunteers  or- 
Lower,  and 
these  there 
n  the  cities, 
ose  in  the 
ose   in  the 
ing  a  larger 
a.     In  the 
field   bat- 
[illery,  engi- 
mpanies  — 
1   company 
days'    drill, 
naval  and 
the  shores 
ng   trained 
e  they  arc 
s  not  very 
;er   such   5> 


force.  It  must  be  remembered  that  the  national 
force  of  Canada  consists  of  two  different  organiza- 
tions—  the  volunteer  militia  and  the  regular  militia. 
Canada  is  divided  into  twenty-one  military  districts, 
eleven  in  Lower  and  ten  in  Upper  Canada.  In  each 
district  there  is  a  Brigade- Major  to  superintend  the 
drill  and  instruction  of  all  volunteer  companies  fur- 
nish monthly  reports  thereon,  and  by  inspections  and 
active  organization  to  promote  the  efficiency  of 
the  volunteer  service  as  far  as  possible.^  The  ap- 
pointment of  these  officers  has  been  attended  with 
very  good  results  in  this  branch  of  the  Militia  Staff. 
In  August,  1862,  forty-six  non-commissioned  officers 
were  sent  out  by  Government,  and  paid  by  the 
Canadian  Parliament,  to  drill  volunteers  ;  and  sixty- 
eight  sergeants  were  subsequently  applied  for  to 
meet  the  increasing  demand  for  instruction.  The 
report  of  the  Deputy- Adjutant  Generals  of  Militia, 
presented  to  Lord  Monck  in  1863,  stated,  — 

"  Taking  population  as  a  basis,  these  Volunteer 
Corps  are  distributed  as  follows:  — 

"  Population  all  Canada  (census  186.' ),  2,506,752, 
—  present  Volunteer  force,  25,010,  or  say  10  Volun- 
teers for  each  1000  inhabitants. 

"  Population :  — 

Lower  Canada,  1,110,664  Volunteers,  10,230,  —  or  say  9+  for  each  1000. 
Upper  Canada,      1,390,088  "  14,780,  —  or  saj- 10|  for  each  iUOO. 


2,506,752  25,010 

"  Population  all  Canada,  showing   proportion  of 
Volunteers  in  cities  and  counties. 


Cities,    257,273 
Rural,  2,249,479 


Volunteers  8,525,  —  or  say  33  for  each  1000. 
"         16,485,  —  or  say  7  J  tor  each  1000. 


2,506,752  25,010 

"  Population  of  Cities. 


Lower  Canada,      153,389 
Upper  Canada,     103,884 

257,273 


Volunteers,  5,500,  or  say  36  for  each  1000. 
"  3,025,  or  say  29  for  each  1000. 

8,525 


192 


CANADA. 


■f 


1, . 


I'  > 


'St  .1 


IM 


u 


m. 


m 

'I 

III' 


!ii 


"  Population  of  Rural  Parts. 


Lower  Canada,       957,275 
Upper  Canada,     1,'2!»2,2()4 


Volunteers,     4,730,  or  sav  5  for  each  1000. 
"  11,755,  or  say  9  for  each  1000. 


2,249,479  16,485 

"  It  will  thus  be  seen  that  in  the  cities  of  Canada, 
those  in  the  Upper  Section  of  the  Province  contrib- 
ute less,  in  proportion  to  their  population,  than  do 
those  in  the  Lower  Section ;  while  in  the  rural  parts. 
Upper  Canada  contributes  a  larger  number  for  each 
1000  inhabitants  than  does  Lower  Canada. 

"  The  volunteering,  thus  far,  has  been  the  free-will 
offering  of  the  people,  and  it  is  gratifying  to  observe 
that  in  the  counties  of  Upper  Canada,  with  the  ex- 
ception of  three,  nearly  every  one  has  furnished  its 
quota  of  the  25,000  now  organized,  while  in  many 
instances  they  are  considerably  beyond  the  propor- 
tionate number. 

"  In  Lower  Canada,  until  of  late,  volunteer  corps 
have  been  chiefly  organized  in  the  cities,  but  within 
the  last  six  months  a  considerable  number  of  volun- 
teers have  been  organized  in  the  rural  parts,  and  now 
evidences  are  not  wanting  that  ere  long  applications 
will  be  received  at  this  department  for  permission  to 
increase  this  number  considerably. 

"The  present  volunteer  force  comprises  field  bat- 
teries, troops  of  cavalry,  foot  companies  of  artillery, 
engineer  companies,  rifle  companies,  companies  of 
infantry,  and  naval  and  marine  companies,  and  is 
divided  properly  into  three  classes,  viz :  Class  A,  and 
two  divisions  of  Class  B. 

"  Corps  in  Class  A  are  those  who  have  furnished 
their  own  uniforms,  and  who  have  been  paid  $6.00, 
for  each  man  uniformed,  for  12  days'  drill  performed 
in  1862. 

"  First  corps  in  Class  B  who  have  furnished  their 
own  uniforms,  and  who  have  been  paid  $6.00  in  lieu 
of  clothing,  after  12  days  drill  performed  in  1862. 

"  Second  corps  in  Class  B  who  have  been  organ* 
ized  upon  the  understanding  that  they   receive  no 


P' 


MILITIA   AND  VOLUNTEERS. 


193 


pay  for  the  12  days'  drill,  but  that  the  Government 
will  provide  them  with  uniforms  and  drill  instruc- 
tion. 

"  Of  the  corps  in  Class  A,  6  field  batteries,  11 
troops  of  cavalry,  2  companies  of  foot  artillery,  and 
33  rifle  companies  have  certified  to  the  performance 
of  12  days'  drill  in  accordance  with  the  General 
Order  of  the  4th  November  last,  and  have  received 
from  the  Government  $22,672  therefor. 

"  Of  the  corps  in  Class  B,  3  troops  of  cavalry, 
8  foot  companies  of  artillery,  2  engineer  corps,  49 
rifle  companies,  15  companies  of  infantry,  and  one 
naval  company  have  certified  to  the  performance  of 
12  days'  drill  in  accordance  with  the  General  Order 
of  the  4th  November  last,  and  have  received  from 
the  Government  $20,952  therefor. 

In  the  twenty -one  districts  there  were  recorded 
468  battalions  of  sedentary  militia.  Seventy  -  six 
driU  associations,  composed  of  the  officers  and  non- 
commissioned officers,  had  been  formed,  and  were 
to  be  supplied  with  arms  and  instructors,  to  which 
number  considerable  additions  have  since  been  made. 
The  total  number  of  militiamen  in  Lower  Canada 
was  estimated  at  190,000 ;  in  Upper  Canada,  at 
280,000.  In  the  former,  63,000  first-class  service 
men;  in  the  latter,  only  33,000  first-class  service 
men.  Second-class,  58,000  and  83,000  respectively. 
Reserve,  20,000  and  25,000  respectively.  The  cities 
of  Upper  Canada  gave  29  volunteers  for  every  1000 
—  the  rural  districts  only  9  volunteers  for  every 
1000.  In  three  counties  containing  50,000  people 
there  was  no  volunteer  or  volunteer  corps.  In 
thirteen  counties  the  average  number  of  volunteers 
was  250,  and  in  sixteen  counties  it  was  only  125. 

In  Lower  Canada,  however,  the  zeal  of  the  people 
for  militia  volunteering  was  by  no  means  remarkable. 
Thirty  counties,  with  a  population  of  450,000,  had 
not  a  single  volunteer  corps,  nor  one  volunteer.  The 
towns  gave  36  volunteers  per  1000,  the  rural  districts 


I 


III 


ill 


ii:'*; 


!i 


illl 


194 


CANADA. 


only  5  per  1000.  In  fact,  the  people  of  French  de- 
scent appeared  to  consider  militia  volunteering  a  sort 
of  playing  at  soldiers,  which  had  no  particular  attrac- 
tions for  them.  England  had  taken  them  in  charge, 
and  might  do  as  she  liked  with  them. 

By  degrees,  a  great  change  occurred  in  the  senti- 
ments, if  not  in  the  actions,  of  the  people.  A  little 
more  address  in  dealing  with  their  prejudices;  a  little 
more  of  a  conciliatory  tone  ;  somewhat  greater  tact  in 
legislative  business,  produced  beneficial  results.  The 
foundation,  at  all  events,  was  laid  of  a  sound  militia 
bill.  The  Commissioners  who  reported  in  1862, 
including  Mr.  Cartier,  Mr.  John  A.  Macdonald,  Mr. 
Gait,  and  Colonel  Lysons,  proposed  a  scheme  which 
was  very  comprehensive  and  ably  conceived ;  but  it 
was  not  considered  suitable  to  the  means  of  the  coun- 
try by  the  politicians,  and  the  debates  which  arose 
on  the  Militia  Bill  prepared  in  accordance  with  its 
recommendations,  were  characterized  by  an  acrimony 
and  party  spirit  which  flavored  the  subsequent  dis- 
cussions on  the  same  subject.  They  recommended 
complete  battalions  as  the  base  of  the  system,  for 
r(  asons  which  are  in  the  abstract  irrefutable.  They 
then  recommended  that  the  Province  should  be  di- 
vided into  military  districts,  as  the  Commander-in- 
Chief  might  direct,  and  that  each  military  district 
should  be  divided  into  regimental  divisions.  They 
further  recommended  as  follows  :  — 

"  That  in  order  to  facilitate  the  enrolment,  relief, 
and  reinforcement  of  an  active  force,  each  regimental 
division  be  divided  into  *  sedentary  battalion  divis- 
ions,' and  be  sub-divided  into  '  sedentary  company 
divisions." 

"  That  each  regimental  division  shall  furnish  one 
active  and  one  reserve  battalion,  to  be  taken  as  nearly 
as  practicable  in  equal  proportions  from  the  male 
population  of  such  division,  between  the  ages  of  18 
and  45. 

"  That  each  company  of  an  active  battalion,  to- 


THE  FIRST  SUMMONS. 


195 


gether  with  its  corresponding  reserve  company,  be 
taken  from  within  the  limits  of  a  defined  territorial 
division,  the  boundary  of  which  shall  be  identical  with 
that  of  a  sedentary  battalion  division,  or  of  a  distinct 
portion  of  such  division. 

"  That  in  order  to  accommodate  the  sedentary  bat- 
talion divisions  to  the  organization  of  the  active  bat- 
talions, the  limits  of  the  former  be,  where  necessary, 
rearranged. 

"  We  recommend  that  each  of  the  principal  cities 
of  the  Province,  namely :  Quebec,  Montreal,  Ot- 
tawa, Kingston,  Toronto,  Hamilton,  and  London, 
with  such  portions  of  the  sr  rounding  country  as  may, 
from  time  to  time,  be  added  to  them  by  the  Com- 
mander-in-Chief, shall  constitute  a  military  district, 
to  be  divided  into  regimental  and  sedentary  battalion 
divisions,  as  hereinbefore  detailed;  that  they  be  al- 
lowed to  furnish  volunteer  militia  of  the  three  arms 
in  the  proportions  hereinafter  detailed  in  lieu  of  active 
battalions  of  regular  militia.  In  the  event  of  these 
cities  failing  to  furnish  their  full  complement  of  vol- 
unteers, they  shall  in  part,  or  altogether,  fall  under 
the  general  regulations  of  the  regular  militia,  in  such 
manner  as  the  Commander-in-Chief  shall  direct." 

The  recommendations  of  the  Commissioners  were 
to  some  extent  acted  upon ;  and  since  the  foregoing 
pages  were  written  the  first  fruits  of  the  volunteer  or- 
ganization- have  been  witnessed,  in  the  actual  appear- 
ance on  service  of  a  number  of  companies,  which  have 
been  dispatched  to  guard  the  frontiers  of  Canada  from 
being  made  the  base  of  offensive  operations  against 
the  Northern  States  by  Confederate  partisans  shel- 
tered for  the  time  under  the  British  banner.  These 
are  but  the  advance  guard  of  the  80,000  men  who 
have  been  ordered  to  hold  themselves  in  readiness  for 
active  service. 

The  summons  of  the  Governor-General  has  been 
heard  and  obeyed  in  the  best  spirit.  The  people  of 
Canada  have  answered  to  the  call  with  an  honorable 


r 

> 


196 


CANADA. 


alacrity,  and  have  displayed  a  temper  which  gives  the 
fairest  guarantee  of  their  services  ;  but  they  have  not 
indulged  in  threats  or  offensive  language,  and  the 
most  irritable  of  Federal  Rep'iblicans  must  admit 
that  the  cause  which  has  c^  d  them  from  their 
homes  is  entitled  to  considerati      and  respect. 


m' 


h^ 


i 


mt 


POSSIBLE  DANGERS. 


197 


,„;, 


CHAPTER  XIll 


Possible  Dangers.  — The  Future  Danger.  —  Open  to  Attack.  —  Canals  and 
Kailways.  —  l*rohal)le  Lines  of  Invasion.  —  Lines  of  Attack  and  Le- 
fiMice.  —  London.  —  Toronto.  —  Defences  of  Kingston.  —  Defences  of 
Quebec. 

The  return  of  able-bodied  males  fit  for  military 
service  in  Montcalm's  time,  exceeded  the  whole  num- 
ber of  volunteers  now  actually  enrolled ;  but  the  pres- 
ent force  is  possessed  of  seven  field  batteries,  of  sev- 
eral squadrons  of  cavalry,  and  of  15,000  men  armed 
with  rilled  muskets.  There  must  be  at  this  moment 
in  Canada  at  least  50,000  rifles  of  the  best  kind. 
There  were  four  18-pound  batteries,  two  20-pound 
Armstrong  batteries,  a  large  number  of  howitzers,  and 
an  immense  accumulation  of  stores  last  year,  which 
have  received  constant  accessions  ever  since,  as  the 
threats  of  the  New  York  press  have  produced  to  us  in 
increased  expense  some  of  the  evil  results  of  war. 
There  are  also  in  the  stores  great  quantities  of  old- 
fashioned  brass  and  iron  field  and  siege  guns,  of  shot 
and  shell,  of  mortars,  and  of  ammunition. 

The  Americans  can  find  no  fault  with  us  for  taking 
steps,  in  view  of  contingencies  which  they  have 
threatened,  to  obviate,  as  far  as  possible,  the  disad- 
vantages to  which  distance  from  the  mother-country 
exposes  the  Provinces.  It  was  enough  that  before  the 
days  of  steam,  which  has  greatly  increased  the  dis- 
parity between  us.  Great  Britain  submitted  to  condi- 
tions in  regard  to  the  Lakes  which  could  only  be 
justified  by  the  supposition  that  Canada  was  the 
western  shore  of  Great  Britain.  By  the  articles  of 
the  Treaty  of  1817,  the  United  States  of  America  and 
Great  Britain  are  limited  to  one  vessel  with  one  18- 


198 


CANADA. 


i 


I' ;  y 


i  ■  '  It' 


\'3: 


111  ■  ;': 


1  i'i'i 


poiindfir  and  a  crow  of  one  hiindrod  mon  oach  on  Lake 
Ontario,  Lake  Cliamplain,  and  the  upper  lakes.  No 
other  vessels  of  war  an;  to  he  built  or  armed,  and  six 
months'  notice  is  required  to  terminate  the  treaty 
obligations. 

It  will  have  been  observed  that  the  Americans  of 
the  Northern  States  are  spoken  of  as  the  only  enemies 
whom  Canada  has  to  fear.  They  are  the  only  peo- 
ple who  threaten  from  titne  to  time  the  conquest  and 
annexation  of  the  Provinces,  and  who  have  declared 
by  the  mouths  of  their  statesmen,  that  they  intend  to 
insist,  when  they  are  stron^r  enough,  on  the  fulfilment 
of  the  doctrine  that  the  whole  continent  is  theirs ;  for 
the  natural  basis  of  the  Monroe  dogma  is,  the  right 
of  the  Americans  to  lay  down  the  doctrine  at  all ;  and 
if  they  can  say  to  the  nations  of  Europe,  "  You  shall 
make  no  further  settlements  on  this  soil,"  they  can 
say,  when  it  pleases  them,  with  just  as  much  right, 
"  You  who  are  now  occupying  this  soil  must  either 
loave  it  or  own  allegiance  to  the  Union."  The  Union 
is  now,  what  it  never  was  before,  a  sovereignty,  and 
Americans  in  its  name  fancy  that  they  can  do  what 
they  please.  The  Canadians  are  by  no  means  well 
disposed  towards  their  neighbors'  institutions,  man- 
ners, and  customs,  and  do  not  desire  to  be  incorpor- 
ated with  them.  The  annexation  must,  therefore,  be 
effected  by  force,  sufficiently  great  to  overpower  the 
resistance  of  the  inhabitants,  whether  singly  or  sup- 
ported by  the  British  army  and  navy. 

It  fortunately  happens  that  the  freedom  of  speech 
and  writing  prevalent  in  the  United  States  are  safety- 
valves  for  the  popular  steam,  and  that  words  are  not 
always  indicative  of  immediate  or  even  of  remote 
action.  It  would  be  difficult  to  estimate  the  nature 
of  the  influences  which  shall  prevail  when  the  Amer- 
ican civil  war  is  over.  If  the  North  succeeds  in  over- 
coming the  South,  no  great  danger  of  war  with  Great 
Britain  or  of  invasion  of  Canada  will  exist.  It  will 
need  every  man  of  the  Federal  army  to  occupy  the 


Till-:  FUTURE  DANGER. 


199 


h  on  Lake 

akcrt.     No 

■ii]^  iind  six 

the  treaty 

lericans  of 
ily  enemies 
!  only  pt'o- 
nqueHt  and 
ve  declared 
y  intend  to 
e  fulfdincnt 
5  theirs ;  for 
is,  the  right 
;  at  all;  and 
«  You  shall 
il,"  they  can 
much  right, 
must  either 
The  Union 
reignty,  and 
an  do  what 
means  well 
itions,  man- 
be  incorpor- 
herefore,  be 
erpower  the 
gly  or  sup- 

of  speech 
Is  are  safety- 
lords  are  not 
of  remote 
le  the  nature 
In  the  Amer- 
;eds  in  over- 
with  Great 
:ist.     It  will 
occupy  the 


Southern  States.  If,  on  the  other  hand,  the  North 
should  be  obliged  to  al)andon  her  project  of  forcing 
the  (;areass  of  the  South  back  into  tlie  Union  l)y  the 
sword,  she  will  suddenly  find  herself  with  a  large 
army  on  her  hands,  with  a  ruined  exchequer,  and 
an  immense  fund  of  mortified  ambition  and  angry 
passion  to  discount. 

It  is  possible  that  the  sober  and  just-minded  men 
who  form  a  large  part  of  American  society  may  be 
able  to  avert  a  conflict,  if  the  American  soldiery  and 
statesmen  entertain  the  views  attributed  to  them;  but 
that  is  just  the  point  on  which  no  information  exists. 
It  is  not  easy  to  ascertain  the  actual  weight  of  the 
classes  who  would  naturally  oppose  the  press  and  the 
populace  in  a  crusadt;  against  Great  Britain.  My  own 
experience,  limited  and  imperfect  as  it  is,  leads  me  to 
think  that  there  is  in  the  States  a  very  great  number, 
if  not  an  actual  majority,  of  people  whose  views 
are  not  much  influenced  by  violent  journals  or  intem- 
perate politicians,  who  rarely  take  part  in  public 
affairs,  but  exercise,  nevertheless,  their  influence  on 
those  who  do.  There  is  not  a  community  in  the 
Northern  States  which  does  not  contain  a  large  pro- 
portion of  educated,  intelligent,  and  upright  men,  who 
shrink  from  participation  in  party  struggles  and  in- 
trigue ;  and  I  regret  that  they  are  not  more  largely 
known.  Their  existence  is  marked  by  no  outward 
sign  foreign  nations  can  recognize.  It  is  on  them, 
however,  that  the  safety  and  reputation  of  the  Fed- 
eral Government  depends;  it  will  be  on  them  that 
t!ieir  country's  reliance  must  be  placed  when  the 
legions  return  home. 

If  the  war  were  over  in  1865,  there  would  probably 
be  600,000  men  under  arms,  and  there  would  be  at 
least  200,000  more  men  in  the  States  who  had  served, 
and  would  take  up  arms  against  England  with  alac- 
rity. A  considerable  proportion  of  that  army  would 
indeed  seek  their  discharge,  and  go  quietly  back  to 
their  avocations;   but  the  Irish,   Germans,  &c.,  to 


4 


200 


CANADA. 


k 


!;:%' 


whom  the  licrnso  of  war  was  apfrrrahle,  would  not 
bo  unwilling  to  invade  C/anada,  and  a  pcrctMitagn 
of  Americans  WDuld  doubtless  ('a«jf(M"ly  seek  lor  an 
o])|)ortnnity  of  gaininj^  ai^ainst  a  forei«i;n  enemy  llie 
lanr(N  ihey  luid  not  found  wliilst  contending  with 
their  felU)W-et)nntrymen.  Connneree,  iinhM-d,  wouM 
suffer  —  the  Amerieans  would  find  lor  the  lirst.  time; 
what  it  was  to  enter  upon  a  (piarrel  single-handed 
with  th(^  Hritish  nation.  They  have  hitherto  mi^t 
only  th<^  sith'  blows  and  stray  shots  of  the  old  mother- 
country —  and  they  believe  they  havt;  encountered 
the  full  weight  of  her  arm,  and  the  utmost  extent  of 
her  energies.  The  wicked  men  who  are  striving  to 
engage  the  two  States  in  a  (piarrel  which  would 
cover  the  seas  of  the  vvorld  with  blood  •xmi  wreck, 
cannot  be  deterred  from  their  horrible  work  by  any 
appeals  to  fear  or  consci(Mice;  but  the  inlluence!  of 
the  past,  and  of  the  Christian  and  civilized  people 
of  the  ex-United  States  will,  it  is  to  be  hoped,  defeat 
their  ellorts,  seconded  though  they  may  be  by  the 
prejudice,  religious  animosity,  and  national  dislike 
of  a  portion  of  the  people.  If  the  war  party  prevail 
they  will  have  no  want  of  pretexts  —  the  8au  Ju:ui 
question  alone  would  sutiiec  them  if  they  had  not  a 
whole  series  of  imaginary  wrongs  to  resent,  arising 
from  the  incidents  of  the  present  war,  and  a  multi- 
tude of  claims  to  prefer  to  which  England  can  never 
listen. 

At  some  day,  near  or  remote,  Canada  must  become 
cither  independent  in  whole  or  in  part,  or  a  portion 
of  a  foreign  state.  It  will  be  of  no  small  moment 
for  those  then  living  in  Great  Britain  whether  they 
have  alienated  the  allbctions  or  have  w^on  the  hearts 
of  the  newly  created  power.  Those  who  doubt  this 
may  consider  how  a  Gaul  now  rules  over  the  rnh'r 
of  Rome,  and  how  all  that  remains  of  an  evidence  of 
the  occupancy  of  this  Island  by  the  masters  of  the 
world  for  four  hundred  years,  are  tumuli,  ruined 
walls,  stratilled  roads,  and  bits  of  tile  and  pottery. 


T" — '^ 


OriCN   TO   ATTACK. 


201 


li,  would  not 
[I   percciitago 

surli  for  an 
r\\  (MIlMliy  tli(^ 
tiMuliiig  with 
U(1(M'(I,  would 
the  lirst  liiiK; 
i'm^h'-liaudi'd 

hhlu'rlo  mvX 
V  old  rnothcr- 

ciK'ouulercd 
i()8t  exirnl.  of 
re  Htriviiiij;  1o 
wliicli  woiild 
id  viud  wreck, 
work  by  any 
!  inllueuee  of 
^ilized  people 
hoped,  defeat 
ay  be  by  the 
tional  dislike 

party  prevail 
the  8au  Juan 
ley  had  not  a 
reijent,  arising 

and  a  multi- 
uid  can  never 

must  become 
,  or  a  portion 
mall  moment 
whether  they 
on  the  hearts 
ho  doubt  this 
)ver  the  ruler 
n  evidence  of 
1  asters  of  the 
imuli,  ruined 
and  pottery. 


The  climate  of  Canada  is  not  more  severe  than  that 
of  Russia — her  natural  advantages  are  much  gr<*at- 
er  — her  inland  seas  are  nevc'r  frozen  —  her  (rommu- 
nications  with  F^urope  an;  easy  —  she  oilers  a  route 
to  all  the  world  from  the  Atlantic  to  the  P;utirKr. 
The  United  States  will  be  no  longer  a  country  for 
the  poor  man  to  live  in;  th(!  load  of  taxation  will 
force  (^migration  to  Canada,  and  the  States  lying  on 
tlu!  l(;ft  banks  of  the  lakes  and  of  the  St.  Lawrence 
will  be  enriched  by  the  demands  of  Aint^ricta  for  h(;r 
product;,  in  pro[)ortion  as  the  waste  lands  an;  oecu- 
])ied,  and  the  Union  is  fill(;d  with  a  tax-paying  swarm- 
ing population.  It  is  astonishing  how  soon  a  man 
liberates  himself  from  the  traditions  and  alh'giance 
of  hitf  nafive-country  in  the  land  of  his  adoption, 
wh(;n  his  inten;sts  and  his  pride  are  touched.  The 
attitude  of  our  iimnediatc;  colonies  in  face  of  the; 
transportation  question  will  at  once  satisfy  us  that 
the  tnother-eountry  has  little  to  expect  from  old 
associations,  whenever  her  interests  are  made  to 
appear  antagonistic  to  those  of  lu;r  colonies,  ('an- 
ada  has  the  most  liberal  institutions  in  the  world  — 
her  municipal  freedom  is  without  parallel  —  educa- 
tion is  widely  disseminated  —  religious  toleration 
restrains  the  violence  of  factions.  The  cold  is  by 
no  means  as  great  as  that  which  is  borne  by  the 
inhabitants  of  the  greater  part  of  northern  El^  ape, 
and  is  far  less  dangerous  to  health  than  the  more 
temperate  climates  of  lowe;r  latitudes,  where  rain 
and  tempest  are  substituted  for  snow  and  hard 
frosts. 

The  frontier  of  Canada  is  assailable  at  all  points. 
In  some  places  it  is  constituted  by  a  line  only  visible 
on  a  map,  in  others  it  is  a  navigable  inland  sea,  in 
others  a  line  drawn  in  water,  in  others  the  bank  of  a 
river  or  the  shore  of  a  lake.  Coincident  with  it  runs 
the  frontier  of  the  United  States. 

The  best  guarantee  against  invasion  would  be, 
complete  naval  supremacy  on  the  lakes  and  rivers, 


-i'-j'.f'awiS 


,:;  U] 


u!  ■•! 


,1]'!!''  ; 


liiiW'i, 


I'm 


I  :| 


202 


CANADA. 


because  they  constitute  the  most  accessible  roads  for 
the  invaders,  and  the  most  serviceable  barriers  for 
defenders,  if  they  have  the  proper  means  of  defence. 
To  give  any  chance  of  successful  resistance,  some 
equality  of  naval  force  on  the  part  of  the  invaded  is 
almost    indispensable.      The   question    arises,   who 
shall  provide  this  naval  force  ?    Canada  cannot.    She 
is  prevented  by  Imperial  treaties,  by  want  of  means, 
and  even  if  she  had  them,  she  is  forbidden  to  use  the 
means,  by  the  principle  which  forbids  a  dependency 
equipping  ships  of  war  in  times  of  peace.      Great 
Britain  has,  no  doubt,  a  powerful  fleet,  but  the  far 
inferior  navy  of  the  United    States,  close  at  hand, 
contains  more  vessels  suitable  for  warlike  operations 
in  inland  waters  and  canals  than  we  possess,  4000 
miles  away.     In  fact  we  ought  to  have  a  very  great 
preponderance  of  small  vessels  to  give  us  a  fair  start, 
and  even  then  it  would  be  difficult  to  begin  hostilities 
on  equal  terms.     Lake  Michigan,  with  the  enormous 
resources  of  Chicago,  is  entirely  American,   and  the 
possession  of  such  a  base  is  an  advantage  which  is 
by  no   means  counterbalanced  by  our  position  on 
Lake  Huron.     To  prevent  the  enemy  clearing  all  be- 
fore them  on  the  lakes,  by  an  energetic  naval  sortie 
from  their  ports,  it  would  be  necessary  to  have  the 
means  of  furnishing  a  flotilla  as  soon  as  hostilities 
became  imminent,  and  to  watch  every  point,  particu- 
larly such  as  that  of  Sorel,  where  communication  from 
Richelieu  to  the  St.  Lawrence  might  be  interrupted. 
But  it  is  thought  we  cannot  hope  to  cope  with  the 
Americans  on  equal  terms  in  all  the  lakes,  and  that  we 
must  be  content  with  concentrating  our  strength  on 
Lake   Ontaria  and  in  the    St.   Lawrence.     All  our 
water-ways  are  very  much  exposed.     Whilst  Great 
Britain  retains  her  supremacy,  the  St.  Lawrence  is 
open  during  the  summer,  and  can   be  kept  free  by 
iron-plated  vessels  as  far  up  as  Montreal.     The  day 
of  wooden  gunboats   has    passed,   and  it  becomes 
requisite   for   the  Government    to  take    immediate 


^iMl 


CANALS   AND  RAILWAYS. 


203 


steps  to  secure  an  adequate  supply  of  armored 
vessels  on  the  spot  as  soon  as  hostilities  become  prob- 
able. It  is  gratifying  to  know  that  the  Canadian 
Legislature  is  about  to  fortify  the  harbor  and  arsenal 
at  Kingston,  so  as  to  cover  the  infant  naval  force. 
Under  any  circumstances,  it  is  not  possible  to  de- 
fend a  canal  by  guarding  the  locks,  or  by  placing 
forts  at  particular  places,  and  yet  the  canals  are  of 
vital  importance  to  us.  The  Beauharnais  Canal  runs 
on  the  right  bank  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  and  is  pecu- 
liarly unfortunate  in  its  military  position.  The 
Welland  Canal  is  of  consequence,  but  it  would  be 
better  to  destroy  it  than  permit  an  enemy  to  hold  it. 
The  Rideau  Canal,  which  runs  from  Lake  Huron  to 
Kingston,  is  a  very  valuable  communication,  but  it 
needs  to  be  deepened  and  enlarged  at  the  Rapids. 
All  the  canals  require  to  be  enlarged  and  improved, 
but  they  are  far  better  placed,  bad  as  their  state  and 
position  are,  than  the  roads  and  railways.  The  Grand 
Trunk  Railway  is  open  to  attack  for  many  miles  at 
different  parts  of  its  course,  and  in  some  places 
trains  could  be  fired  upon  from  American  territory! 
Our  reinforcements  last  winter  were  sent  through 
New  Brunswick  and  Nova  Scotia,  in  sleighs,  along 
a  route  which  for  miles  could  be  cut  across  at  any 
time  by  the  enemy  from  Maine,  and  it  would  be 
necessary,  to  make  all  safe,  for  us  to  follow  the  Met- 
apodliac  road,  or  to  construct  the  intercolonial  rail- 
way. 

The  harbors  of  Halifax  and  of  St.  John's  are  not 
closed  in  winter,  and  the  mode  which  was  adopted 
of  sending  troops  into  Canada  by  those  points  would 
no  doubt  be  reverted  to  till  some  better  means  shall 
be  provided.  From  St.  Andrew's,  in  New  Bruns- 
wick, there  is  a  railroad  to  Woodstock,  which  lies 
near  the  State  boundary  of  Maine.  Here  the  route 
from  St.  John's  meets  the  St.  Andrew  road,  and, 
united,  the  line  follows  the  course  of  the  St.  John 
River,  and  may  be  divided  into  four  days'  marches 


m 


I 
I 


fh 


?s 


204 


CANADA. 


r'ij       ! 


;  ■  T 


'^i  ;■  jv 


iiSi; 


Ni 


—  to  Florenceville,  1 ;  to  Tobiqne,  2  ;  to  Grand  Falls, 
3  ;  to  Little  Falls,  4.  All  this  route  lies  close  to  the 
American  frontier,  and  is  therefore  quite  unfit  for 
the  march  of  troops  in  detachments.  The  St. 
John's  route  also  takes  four  days  to  Woodstock. 
Even  with  the  advantages  afforded  by  the  line  of 
railroad,  it  must  be  remembered  that  the  snows  of 
winter  may  often  mar  all  combinations;  —  our  first 
detachments  suffered  considerably  from  cold  in  the 
railway  carriages,  and  it  may  be  readily  conceived 
that  the  course  of  an  army  in  sleighs  to  Riviere  du 
Loup  on  the  St.  Lawrence,  where  the  Grand  Trunk 
Railway  begins  or  terminates,  might  be  rendered 
very  unsafe  by  no  more  formidable  agencies  than 
violent  snow-storms  alone. 

Our  military  authorities  do  not,  it  is  said,  fear  a 
winter  campaign,  but  the  Americans  have  already 
shown  that  they  are  not  to  be  deterred  by  frost  and 
snow  from  moving  troops  into  Canada.  To  ensure 
moderate  security  the  Metis  road,  notwithstanding 
its  greater  length,  should  be  improved  and  adapted 
for  military  purposes,  and  the  railway  should  be  con- 
structed to  complete  the  work.  In  considering  the 
three  modes  of  invasion  of  which  I  shall  speak,  it 
may  be  inferred  that  Montreal  will  be  the  most  likely 
point  of  attack,  and  that  Quebec  will  be  compara- 
tively safe  at  first,  but  it  would  not  be  wise  to  act  on 
the  hypothesis  as  if  it  were  an  absolute  certainty. 

In  the  State  of  New  York,  at  its  capital  of  Albany, 
the  Americans  possess  an  admirable  base  of  opera- 
tions against  us.  Except  in  winter,  the  Hudson  is 
an  open  highway  between  Albany  and  New  York, 
and  the  sea  and  railways  connect  it  with  the  shores 
of  the  lakes  and  with  the  vast  centres  of  American 
resource  and  industry.  Albany  is  specially  capable 
of  serving  as  a  base  against  the  very  places  most 
likely  to  be  assailed,  Montreal  and  Quebec.  There 
is  no  necessity  for  any  argument  to  show  that  the 
loss  of  these  places  would  be  equivalent  to  the  over- 


rROCABLE  LINES  OF  INVASION. 


205 


throw  of  the  British  in  Canada.  From  the  Hudson 
there  is  cl  canal  to  Lake  Cliamplain,  on  the  upper 
extremity  of  which,  and  almost  on  the  raih'oad  con- 
necting Montreal  with  New  York,  is  situated  a  case- 
mated  work  popularly  known  as  Rouse's  Point, 
about  two  days'  march  from  the  commercial  capital 
of  Canada.  Rouse's  Point  would  serve  as  an  im- 
mediate base  for  the  collection  of  supplies  and  the 
concentration  of  an  army,  whilst  Albany  would  be- 
come the  great  ddpot  for  the  war.  It  is  probable 
that  the  Americans  would  try  to  strike  several  blows 
at  once.  They  might  direc^  one  expeditionary  force 
from  Rouse's  Point  against  Montreal,  and  others 
from  Albany  and  Rouse's  Point  against  Quebec. 
They  might  also  menace,  or  actually  attack,  the 
frontier  at  Detroit  or  at  Niagara.  As  a  war  with 
Great  Britain  would  be  popular,  and  no  lack  of  men 
would  be  found,  it  would  also  be  practicable  for 
them  to  direct  from  either  of  those  points  an  expedi- 
tion to  attack  Ottawa,  or  the  towns  west  of  the  river 
Ottawa. 

Kingston  would  also  be  a  point  of  attack,  as  much 
from  its  importance  to  us  as  from  its  value  to  the 
enemy,  who  would,  by  the  possession  of  it,  command 
the  Rideau  Canal,  which  connects  the  river  Ottawa 
with  Lake  Ontario.  It  is  plain  that  if  the  points 
liable  to  attack  were  left  in  their  present  state,  there 
would  be  little  hope  of  our  ability  to  defend  them  by 
fighting  in  the  open  field.  United,  the  Americans 
are  to  the  Canadians  as  about  eight  to  one.  The 
State  of  New  York  alone  is  as  populous,  and  is 
richer,  than  the  Canadas.  Great  Britain,  thousands 
of  miles  away,  could  not  hope,  by  any  expenditure 
of  money,  or  by  any  display  of  military  skill,  to 
equalize  the  conditions  of  the  assailants  and  the 
defenders  of  her  sovereignty.  The  engineers  are 
right,  therefore,  in  the  argument,  that  the  only  way 
of  enabling  the  Canadians  and  their  British  allies  to 
make  way  against  the  Republicans,  is  to  establish 

10 


w^^ 


206 


CANADA. 


!;f 


u\ 


i      ! 


I     i 


II     \ 


III  ■■!' 


■;  ;*»■■ 

j  I'"  ,•■;' 

!  i 

I  I'l'e.*-' 


m 


Wi 


fortified  works  supported  by  or  supporting  a  naval 
force.  The  Americans  have  an  idea  that  it  is  possi- 
ble to  carry  on  operations  during  winter.  Our  en- 
gineers start  with  the  assumption  that  it  is  impossible 
to  do  so  on  any  large  scale,  and  that  it  is  out  of  the 
question  for  some  five  months  of  the  year  in  Canada. 
The  obstructions  to  siege  operations  might  not  be  so 
serious,  but  they  would  be  so  considerable  as  to  ren- 
der the  undertaking  of  them  exceedingly  hazardous, 
and  little  likely  to  succeed.  The  question,  then,  pre- 
sents itself  whether  Canada  can  be  defended  for  the 
time  in  each  year  during  which  operations  are  prac- 
ticable, and  if  so,  in  what  manner  the  defence  is  to 
be  conducted.  Our  military  authorities  are  of  opin- 
ion that  Canada  can  be-  defended.  The  Americans, 
as  far  as  I  could  judge  from  their  remarks  on  the 
subject,  and  from  conversations  with  several  of  their 
officers,  conceive  that  Canada  lies  at  their  mercy 
whenever  they  choose  tc  attack  it.  As  a  chain  of 
great  frontier  fortresses  could  not  be  established  or 
maintained,  the  means  suggested  for  the  purposes 
of  defence  are  principally  of  a  provisional  character. 
To  meet  the  flood  of  invasion,  it  is  proposed  to  cover 
the  approaches  to  the  vulnerable  points.  Ottawa, 
Montreal,  and  Quebec  would  be  defended  by  forces 
posted  in  earthworks,  and  covered  by  entrenched 
camps  at  Prescott  and  Richmond,  and  other  suitable 
places. 

If  we  examine  the  modes  of  proceeding  to  which 
the  enemy  would  probably  resort,  we  shall  find  them 
classified  under  five  heads.  First,  a  naval  descent 
on  Goderich.  Second,  the  descent  of  a  force  be- 
tween Detroit  and  London.  Thirdly,  the  descent  of 
a  force  on  Niagara.  Fourthly,  the  passage  of  a  force 
between  the  St.  Lawrence  and  Ogdensburg.  Fifthly, 
an  attack  by  several  columns  converging  in  concert 
on  a  point  between  Derby  and  Huntingdon,  with  a 
view  of  concentrating  on  Montreal,  and  cutting  the 
communications  with  Kingston  as  well  as  with  Que- 


ll 


LINES  OF  ATTACK  AND  DEFENCE. 


207 


g  a  naval 
it  is  possi- 
Our  en- 
impossible 
out  of  the 
in  Canada. 
t  not  be  so 
3  as  to  ren- 
hazardous, 
I,  then,  pre- 
ded  for  the 
IS  are  prac- 
efence  is  to 
are  of  o  pin- 
Americans, 
arks  on  the 
eral  of  their 
their   mercy 
i  a  chain  of 
ptablished  or 
he  purposes 
al  character, 
)sed  to  cover 
,s.     Ottawa, 
|ed  by  forces 
f  entrenched 
ither  suitable 

Ing  to  which 
kll  find  them 
[aval  descent 
a  force  be- 
ie  descent  of 
ge  of  a  force 
irg.    Fifthly, 
[g  in  concert 
rdon,  with  a 
cutting  the 
[as  with  Que- 


bec. Let  us  take  a  glance  at  the  present  state  of  the 
principal  points,  and  consider  what  is  needed  to  im- 
prove their  condition. 

If  we  look  at  the  map  of  Upper  Canada,  the  posi- 
tion of  Paris  at  once  attracts  the  eye  as  a  favorable 
site  for  the  main  body  of  the  defensive  force  ;  whilst 
Stratford  and  London,  being  points  of  railway  junc- 
tion, would  naturally  be  held  as  long  as  possible. 
Guelph  would  serve  as  a  point  of  concentration  for 
troops  obliged  to  fall  back  from  London  or  from  Strat- 
ford, according  to  the  direction  from  which  the  enemy 
came.  Toronto  would  become  the  natural  point 
of  concentration  for  troops  obliged  to  retire  from 
Guelph,  and  under  the  conditions  necessitating  such 
a  retreat  the  force  defending  the  Niagara  frontier 
would  be  obliged  to  fall  back  upon  Hamilton  to  the 
entrenched  position  covering  that  town.  If  the 
Americans  attack  the  western  settlements  near 
Georgian  Bay,  it  seems  impossible  to  oppose  them 
with  assured  advantage.  A  calm  consideration  of 
the  subject  has  led  the  best  authorities  to  the  conclu- 
sion that  we  cannot  hope  at  present  to  establish  a 
naval  force  on  either  Lake  Huron  or  Lake  Erie. 
The  Welland  Canal  is,  in  its  present  state,  unsuited 
to  the  purposes  of  modern  naval  warfare,  and  a  canal 
is  at  all  times,  and  under  the  most  favorable  circum- 
stances, very  little  to  be  depended  upon.  "With  the 
aid  of  fortified  harbors  there  is,  however,  no  reason 
to  fear  for  our  naval  supremacy  on  Lake  Ontario, 
and  it  is  to  that  object  our  best  efforts  should  be 
directed.  It  would  of  course  be  impolitic  to  leave 
Toronto  and  Hamilton  open  to  naval  demonstra- 
tions, but  the  principal  efforts  of  the  authorities 
should  be  directed  to  establish  permanent  works  to 
protect  Ottawa,  Montreal,  Kingston,  and  Quebec, 
and  to  prepare  positions  for  entrenched  camps  and 
earthworks  on  the  points  most  likely  to  be  assailed. 

It  is  plain  that  a  navy  alone  can  prevent  descents 
on  the  land  line  of  such  extensive  waters,  and  that 


m 


208 


CANADA. 


t     ■   ! 


m'i 


Liife 


the  possession  of  Rouse's  Point  enables  the  Ameri- 
cans to  turn  the  line  of  the  Richelieu  and  threaten 
Montreal.  Let  us  run  rapidly  over  the  positions, 
beginning  with  the  west  If  worlds  were  thrown  up 
at  Goderich  and  Sydenham  on  points  there  which 
are  suitable  for  defensive  positions,  it  might  be  pos- 
sible to  check  any  adventurous  force  intent  on  speedy 
victory  and  conquest ;  but  no  fortifications  could  be 
maintained  on  those  remote  points  for  permanent 
occupation,  as  the  enemy  could  operate  on  the  flanks 
and  rear  and  turn  them  from  Huron  or  Georgian  Bay. 

A  permanent  work  on  Point  Edward  Sarnia,  to 
command  the  St.  Clair  River,  has  been  suggested, 
and  it  has  been  recommended  that  the  defences  of 
Fort  Maldon  and  Bar  Island  should  be  made  perma- 
nent works,  but  other  engineers  have  considered  it 
unwise  to  erect  fortifications  at  Sarnia  or  Amherst- 
burg,  and  contend  that  the  Niagara  and  Detroit 
frontiers  are  too  much  exposed  to  be  tenable  by  any 
works.  Guelph  should  also  be  rendered  worthy  of 
its  important  position.  London,  being  a  railway 
station,  is,  in  event  of  a  war,  an  important  point  to 
hold  for  the  carriage  of  troops;  and  although  there  is 
no  ground  close  at  hand  admitting  of  tenacious  grip, 
there  is  a  tolerably  good  line  of  defence  at  Konoska, 
which  the  spade  could  convert  into  a  fair  position. 

When  we  come  to  consider  the  condition  of  the 
Toronto  district  it  becomes  apparent  that  two  points 
require  especial  attention  —  Fort  Dalhousie  and  Port 
Colborne.  It  is  unwise  to  leave  these  places  without 
defences  to  cover  the  garrisons,  and  to  enable  them 
to  protect  the  shore  against  desultory  operations  and 
isolated  detachments.  Domville  and  Maitland  are 
open  to  predatory  attacks  which  might  be  prevented 
by  ordinary  fortifications  or  earthworks  on  eligible 
sites.  It  is  impossible  to  defend  a  canal;  but  much 
good  might  be  done  by  enlisting  the  employes  on  the 
Welland  as  a  sort  of  guard,  whose  local  knowledge 
would  be  available  in  time  of  danger.     Although,  as 


DEFENCES  OF   KINGSTON. 


209 


I  have  said,  strong  reasons  are  urged  against  any 
outlay  for  the  defence  of  the  Niagara  frontier,  on  the 
ground  of  its  exposure,  there  are  distinguished  author- 
ities who  insist  that  a  permanent  work  is  required  at 
Fort  Erie ;  and  who  contend  that  another  fort  should 
be  erected  at  Niagara,  in  support  of  an  entrenched 
camp,  which  would  exercise  a  most  powerful  influ- 
ence over  the  movements  of  an  invading  force,  par- 
ticularly if  there  were  gunboats  placed  on  the  Chip- 
pewa. One  of  the  painful  necessities  of  war  between 
the  United  States  and  Great  Britain  would  be  the 
destruction  of  the  suspension  bridges  over  the  river. 
Hamilton  is  generally  considered  as  incapable  of  de- 
fence, but  it  lies  in  a  district  which  presents  two 
lines  of  hills  capable  of  being  adapted  to  defensive 
purposes,  and  earthworks  there  might  be  stifdy  held, 
in  case  of  attack,  by  the  troops  of  the  district,  to  en- 
able the  forces  to  concentrate  and  retire  along  routes 
previously  determined.  Toronto  itself  may  be  re- 
garded as  an  open  place  equally  incapable  of  defence 
by  ordinary  works ;  but  it  should  not  be  left  open  to 
such  a  coup  by  a  single  cruiser,  as  might  be  obviated 
by  the  erection  of  a  fort  on  the  site  of  the  new 
barracks  ;  and  it  would  be  necessary  to  construct  a 
strong  entrenched  camp  to  cover  it  and  protect  the 
troops  retiring  before  the  enemy.  A  chain  of  earth- 
works might  be  placed  on  the  elevated  ridges  which 
run  from  the  Don  River  towards  Humber  Bay.  A 
casemated  fort  on  the  island  is  also  most  desirable. 
Toronto  has  something  more  than  its  mere  strategi- 
cal importance  to  recommend  it.  It  has  special 
claims  to  consideration  as  an  important  centre  of 
civilized  life,  commerce,  enterprise,  and  learning. 

The  defences  of  Kingston  are  more  worthy  of  its 
ancient  importance.  In  fact,  the  only  works  in  Can- 
ada suited  to  modern  warfare  are  those  at  Kingston 
and  Quebec.  The  latter  are  capable  of  much  im- 
provement, as  has  been  already  pointed  out.  Both 
need  to  be  strengthened,  and  to  be  extended.     If  the 


mm 


lil' 


'I  i1 


i 

m 


i 


210 


CANADA. 


Americans  have  beaten  us  by  treaty,  why  should  we 
not  at  all  events  have  iron-plated  vessels  sent  up  the 
St.  Lawrence  as  far  as  treaty  will  allow  them  to  go, 
and  prepare  naval  establishments  and  encourage 
naval  volunteers  for  times  of  danger  at  Kingston? 
Fort  Henry,  Fort  Frederick,  an  earthen  work,  and 
the  Market  Battery,  are  in  good  condition,  but  much 
must  be  done  before  the  place  can  be  regarded  as  be- 
ing in  a  satisfactory  state.  The  Shoal  Tower,  the 
Cedar  Island  Tower,  and  the  Murney  Tower,  con- 
structed of  stone,  are  placed  on  points  covering  the 
w^ater  approaches  to  Kingston.  But  all  the  guns  in 
these  works,  with  one  exception,  are  en  barbette^  and 
to  render  Kingston  safe  it  would  be  necessary  to  erect 
strong  works  to  resist  the  advance  of  an  enemy  land- 
ing either  above  or  below  the  town.  It  is  estimated 
that  390,000/.  would  be  sufficient  for  the  purpose  of 
erect! riii;  the  permanent  forts  absolutely  indispensable 
for  the  safety  of  the  harbor  and  dockyard  establish- 
ment. The  position  of  these  works  should  be  chosen 
with  a  due  regard  to  all  possible  conditions  of  attack. 
Wolfe  Island,  Abraham's  Head,  Snake  Island,  Sim- 
coe  Island,  and  Garden  Island,  should  be  provided 
with  adequate  forts  to  support  the  new  scheme  of 
defence.  T'^e  Navy  Yard  should  be  removed,  and 
the  points  now  open  to  attack  at  once  fortified. 
Belleville  and  Prescott  both  afford  admirable  ground 
for  works  of  great  importance :  the  former  possesses 
a  most  advantageous  site  for  temporary  works  and 
for  a  line  of  defence  ;  and  the  latter  has  such  a  com- 
manding situation  that  a  permanent  work,  with 
casemates,  should  be  constructed  there  to  guard  what 
is,  according  to  some  of  our  engineers,  one  of  the 
most  valuable  positions  in  the  province. 

When  we  come  to  consider  the  actual  state  of 
Montreal,  its  importance,  its  liability  to  attack,  and 
the  difficulty  of  offering  an  adequate  defence,  the 
best  means  to  adopt  are  not  very  obvious.  The  best 
method  of  defence  would  doubtless  be  to  construct  an 


DEFENCES  OF  QUEDEC. 


211 


hould  we 
nt  up  the 
em  to  go, 
jncourage 
Kingston? 
vork,  and 
but  much 
led  as  be- 
?ower,  the 
)wer,  con- 
Bering  the 
le  guns  in 
rbette,  and 
ry  to  erect 
lemy  land- 
estimated 
purpose  of 
lispensable 
establish- 
,  be  chosen 
s  of  attack, 
iland,  Sim- 
e  provided 
scheme  of 
oved,  and 
;e  fortified, 
lie  ground 
Ir  possesses 
works  and 
ch  a  com- 
..ork,   with 
guard  what 
one  of  the 

il  state  of 
[attack,  and 

lefence,  the 
The  best 
lonstruct  an 


entrenched  position,  consisting  of  a  parapet  strength- 
ened by  redoubts,  to  cover  the  approach  from  the 
south  side.  A  tete  de  pont  should  be  built  to  cowt 
tho  approaches  now  so  open  and  cxposeJ  to  attack. 

The  enhirgement  of  tlie  Ottawa  and  Ride;m  canals 
is  of  obvious  importance,  and  outlying  works  miglit 
be  traced  which  could  be  used  in  case  of  invasion  to 
hold  the  enemy  in  check;  but  still,  as  a  precautionary 
measure,  it  would  be  desirable  to  remove  the  more 
important  stores  at  Moiitrt'al  to  Quebec  and  Ottawa, 
if  it  is  in  contemplation  to  mak^'  this  valuable  posi- 
tion subsidiary  to  any  place  in  Canada. 

Permanent  works  might  be  erected  at  St.  John's, 
the  Isle  aux  Noix,  and  St.  Helen's  Island,  where  forts 
should  be  reconstructed  on  improved  principles.  But 
the  most  obvious  measure,  in  the  opinion  of  some 
engineers,  the  fortification  of  the  hill  over  the  city, 
and  the  erection  of  a  Citadel  upon  it,  which  would 
render  the  mere  occupation  of  the  town  below  value- 
less to  an  enemy,  is  not  approved  of  by  more  recent 
authorities. 

Gunboats  on  Lake  St.  Louis  would  prove  most 
valuable  in  defending  the  works  at  Vaudrueuil. 

Quebec  is,  however,  the  keyof  Canada  ;  and  that 
key  can  be  wrested  from  our  own  grasp  at  any  mo- 
ment by  a  determined  enemy,  unless  the  recommen- 
dations so  strongly  urged  from  time  to  time  by  all 
military  authorities  meet  with  consideration.  The 
old  enceinte  should,  be  removed  and  the  French 
works  restored,  according  to  the  suggestions  of  scien- 
tific officers,  and  of  the  ablest  engineers  we  possess. 
An  entrenched  camp  might  be  marked  out  to  the 
west  of  the  Citadel,  with  a  line  of  parapet  and  re- 
doubts extending  from  the  St.  Lawrence  to  the  St. 
Charles  River.  In  order  to  cover  the  city  from  an 
attack  on  the  south  side,  it  would  be  necessary  to 
occupy  Point  Levi,  and  to  construct  a  strong  en- 
trenched line,  with  redoubts  at  such  a  distance  as 
would  prevent  the  enemy  from  coming  near  the  river 


llpil 


u 


u 


■  i 

I 


J 


CANADA. 


to  slicll  tho  city  and  citadel.  But  it  is  evident  that 
they  arc  nil  ad  rem,  unless  behind  these  works,  and 
in  snp[)ort  of  them  in  file  open,  can  be  assembled  a 
force  of  sufficient  stren<(th  to  prevent  an  investment, 
or  to  attack  tin;  investing  armies,  and  at  the  same 
time  to  hold  front  against  them  in  the  field.  It  is 
estimated  that  1/30,000  men  might  hold  the  whole  of 
the  Caiiadas,  East  and  West,  against  twice  that 
number  of  the  enemy.  If  we  are  to  judge  by  what 
has  passed,  it  is  not  probable  the  United  States  will 
be  inclined  or  able  for  such  an  efibrt.  Quebec  might 
be  held  with  10,000  men  against  all  comers.  From 
25,000  to  30,000  men  would  make  Montreal  safe. 
Kingston  would  require  20,000  men,  and  Ottawa 
would  need  5000.  The  greater  part,  if  not  all  of 
them,  might  be  composed  of  militia,  and  volunteers 
trained  to  gunnery  and  the  use  of  small  arms.  For 
the  protection  of  the  open  country,  and  to  meet  the 
enemy  in  the  field,  an  army  of  from  25,000  to  85,000 
men  would  be  needed  from  Lake  Ontario  to  Quebec. 
The  western  district  on  Lake  Erie  could  not  Lj  pro- 
tected by  less  than  60,000  men. 

Thus,  in  case  of  a  great  invasion  from  the  United 
States,  Canada,  with* any  assistance  Great  Britain 
could  afford  her,  must  have  150,000  men  ready  for 
action.  What  prospect  there  is  of  this,  may  best  be 
learned  from  a  consideration,  not  so  much  of  the 
resources  of  Canada,  as  of  the  willingness  of  the  peo- 
ple to  use  them. 


IIAPIU  INCKKASE  OF  rOPULATlON. 


213 


ulnit  that 
.vorks,  and 
rtcnibUHl  a 
iivcstiiHMit, 
t  \\w  same 
iold.     It  irt 
[»  whole  of 
twice    that 
ere  by  what 
Istates  will 
lebec  might 
ers.     From 
n treat  safe, 
nd   Ottawa 

not  all  of 

I  volunteers 

arms.     For 

to  meet  the 

00  to  85,000 

to  Quebec. 

not  Lj  pro- 

the  United 

Ireat  Britain 

in  ready  for 

|may  best  be 

luch  of  the 
Is  of  the  peo- 


CIIAPTER  XIV. 

Rapid  Tncrense  of  Populiition.  —  Mineral  Wealth.  —  Cereals.  —  Imports  and 
KxportH.  —  Oliinute.  —  Agriculture.  —  A  Settlor's  Life. 

The  rapid  increase  of  population  and  settlements 
in  Canada,  and  the  growth  of  cities  and  towns,  are 
among  the  great  marvels  of  the  last  and  of  the  pres- 
ent ceiitury,  so  rich  in  wonders  of  the  kind.  It  is  not 
too  much  tc  say,  that  any  approximation  to  a  similar 
rate  of  increase  will  make  British  North  America  a 
great  power  in  the  world.  The  direction  of  emigra- 
tion has  not  been  favorable.  The  Germans  and  the 
Irish  have  rather  sought  the  United  States.  The 
emigrating  powers  of  Scotland  are  rapidly  decreasing, 
and  the  few  English  who  emigrate  prefer  Australia, 
New  Zealand,  even  the  States  of  the  Union,  to  a 
country  which  suffers  from  the  early  neglect  of  the 
home  government,  the  studied  aspersions  and  mis- 
representations of  powerful  agencies,  and  the  igno- 
ance  of  the  poorer  classes  who  seek  to  improve  their 
condition  by  going  forth  in  search  of  new  homes. 

Mr.  Sheridan  Hogan,  the  writer  of  a  prize  essay  on 
Canada  of  no  ordinary  excellence,  has  devoted  some 
of  his  pages  to  show  that  the  growth  of  Canada  in 
population  has  been  overlooked  in  the  scope  of  the 
wondering  gaze  which  Europe  has  fixed  on  the  de- 
velopment of  the  United  States,  although,  in  fact,  the 
increase  of  Canadians  in  the  land  has  been  quite 
as  astonishing  as  that  of  Americans  south  of  the 
St.  Lawrence.  In  1800,  he  says,  the  population  of 
the  United  States  was  5,305,925.  In  1850  it  was 
20,250,000.  The  increase  was  therefore  300  per  cent, 
nearly.  In  1811  the  population  of  Upper  Canada 
was  77,000,  and  in  1851  it  was  952,000,  an  increase 

10* 


T        :'W 


:> 


f 


ir^li 


214 


CANADA. 


of  over  1100  per  cent,  in  forty  years.  Within  tlie 
decade  up  to  1855  tlie  rate  of  increase  in  tli(j  United 
States  was  13.20  per  cent.  Tn  Upper  Canada  it  was 
1*'4  per  cent,  from  1841  to  iHol.  Upper  Canada  ex- 
liibited  in  forty  years  nearly  four  times  the  increase 
of  the  United  States  in  fifty  years.  Even  the  popu- 
lation of  Lower  Canada  increased  90  per  cent,  from 
1829  to  1854.  In  a  table  in  the  same  work  it  appears 
that  the  Irish  in  Lower  Canada  were  more  than 
double  the  English  and  Scotch  together,  and  that 
they  equalled  both  in  Upper  Canada.  The  writer 
says  :  — 

"  The  '  World's  Progress,'  published  by  Putnam, 
of  New  York,  —  a  reliable  authority,  —  gives  the 
population  and  increase  of  the  principal  cities  in  the 
United  States.  Boston,  between  1840  and  1850,  in- 
creased forty-five  per  cent.  Toronto,  within  the  same 
period,  increased  ninelif-five  per  cent.  New  York, 
the  great  emporium  of  the  United  States,  and  re- 
garded as  the  most  prosperous  city  in  the  world,  in- 
creased, in  the  same  time,  sixty-six  per  cent.,  about 
thirty  less  than  Toronto. 

"  The  cities  of  St.  Louis  and  Cincinnati,  which 
have  also  experienced  extraordinary  prosjjerity,  do 
not  compare  with  Canada  any  better.  In  the  thirty 
years  preceding  1850,  the  population  of  St.  Louis 
increased  fifteen  times.  In  the  thirty-three  years 
preceding  the  same  year,  Toronto  increased  eighteen 
times.  And  Cincinnati  increased,  in  the  same  period 
given  to  St.  Louis,  but  twelve  times. 

"  Hamilton,  a  beautiful  Canadian  city  at  the  head 
of  Lake  Ontario,  and  founded  much  more  recently 
than  Toronto,  has  also  had  almost  unexampled  pros- 
perity. In  1836  its  population  was  but  2840,  in 
1854  it  was  upwards  of  20,000. 

"  London,  still  farther  west  in  Upper  Canada,  and 
a  yet  more  recently  founded  city  than  Hamilton, 
being  surveyed  as  a  wilderness  little  more  than 
twenty  -  five  years  ago,  has  now  upwards  of  ten 
thousand  inhabitants. 


RAPID  INCKRVSK  OF   POPUI  ATION. 


215 


"  The  city  of  Ottawa,  recently  called  after  the 
magnilicent  river  of  that  name,  and  upon  which  it  is 
situated,  has  now  above  10,000  inhabitants,  although 
in  18J]0  it  had  but  140  houses,  including  mere  sheds 
and  shanties ;  and  the  property  upon  which  it  is 
built  was  purchased,  not  maiiy  years  before,  for 
eighty  pounds. 

"  The  town  of  Bradford,  situated  between  Hamil- 
ton and  London,  and  whose  site  was  an  absolute 
wilderness  twenty-five  years  ago,  has  now  a  popula- 
lation  of  6000,  and  has  increased,  in  ten  years,  up- 
wards of  three  hundred  per  cent. ;  and  this  without 
any  other  stimulant  or  cause  save  the  business  aris- 
ing from  the  settlement  of  a  fine  country  adjacent 
to  it. 

"  The  towns  of  Belleville,  Cobourg,  Woodstock, 
Goderich,  St.  Catherine's,  Paris,  Stratford,  Port  Hope, 
and  Dundas,  in  Upper  Canada,  show  similar  pros- 
perity, some  of  them  having  increased  in  a  ratio  even 
greater  than  that  of  Toronto,  and  all  of  them  but  so 
many  evidences  of  the  improvement  of  the  country, 
and  the  growth  of  business  and  population  around 
them.  f 

"  That  some  of  the  smaller  towns  in  the  United 
States  have  enjoyed  equal  prosperity  I  can  readily 
believe,  from  the  circumstances  of  a  large  population 
suddenly  filling  up  the  country  contiguous  to  them. 
Buffalo  and  Chicago,  too,  as  cities,  are  magnificent 
and  unparalleled  examples  of  the  business,  the  energy, 
and  the  progress  of  the  United  States.  But  that 
Toronto  should  have  quietly  and  unostentatiously 
increased  in  population  in  a  greater  ratio  than  New 
York,  St  Louis,  and  Cinciiniati,  and  that  the  other 
cities  and  towns  of  Upper  Canada  should  have  kept 
pace  with  the  Capital,  is  a  fact  credit.ible  alike  to 
the  steady  industry  and  the  noiseless  enterprise  of 
the  Canadian  people. 

"  Although  Lower  Canada,  from  the  circumstance 
already  alluded  to  of  the  tide  of  emigration  llowing 


216 


CANADA. 


I      ^ 


i  ■!■ 


:  ^ 
» 
I 
I 


\i   V 


t 


westward,  has  not  advanced  so  rapidly  as  her  sister 
Province,  yet  some  of  her  counties  and  cities  have 
recently  made  great  progress.  In  ths  seven  yearri 
preceding  1851,  the  fine  county  of  Megantic,  on  the 
south  side  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  and  through  which 
the  Quebec  and  Richmond  Railroad  passes,  increased 
a  hundred  and  sixteen  per  cent. ;  the  county  of 
Ottawa,  eighty  -  five  ;  the  county  of  Drummond, 
seventy-eight  ;  and  the  county  of  Sherbrooke,  fifty. 
The  city  of  Montreal,  probably  the  most  substan- 
tially built  city  in  America,  and  certainly  one  of  the 
most  beautiful,  has  trebled  her  population  in  thirty- 
four  years.  The  ancient  city  of  Quebec  has  more 
than  don  bled  her  population  in  the  same  time,  and 
Sorel,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Richelieu,  has  increased 
upwards  of  four  times  ;  showing  that  Lower  Can- 
ada, with  all  the  disadvantages  of  a  feudal  tenure, 
and  of  being  generally  looked  upon  as  less  desirable 
for  settlement  than  the  West,  has  quietly  but  justly 
put  in  her  claim  to  a  portion  of  the  honor  awarded 
to  America  for  her  progress." 

Save  and  except  coal,  the  want  of  which  is  to  a 
considerable  extent  compensated  by  the  vast  stores 
of  forest,  of  bog  and  of  mineral  oils  in  the  Provinces, 
Canada  is  very  rich  in  many  minerals  of  the  first 
importance,  iron  is  deposited  in  exceeding  abun- 
dance in  the  Laurentian  System  —  lead,  plumbago, 
phosphate  of  lime,  sulphate  of  barytes,  and  marbles 
are  found  in  the  same  wide  -  spread  formation  of 
gneiss  and  limestone. 

The  Huron  System  of  slate,  &c.,  contains  cof.»per, 
silver,  and  nickel,  jaspers  and  agates.  The  Quebec 
group  in  the  East  promises  to  be  equally  valuable. 
The  bases  of  metallic  and  ochreous  pigments,  every 
description  of  marble  and  slate,  minerals,  and  sub- 
stances useful  in  chemistry,  in  arts,  in  agriculture,  in 
architecture,  are  scattered  throughout  the  land,  from 
Lake  Superior  to  Gaspd.  Notwithstanding  the  long 
winter,    Upper    Canada   yielded,  according   to   late 


EXPORTS  AND  IMPORTS. 


217 


averages,  21  bushels  of  winter  wheat  and  18  i  bushels 
of  spring  wheat  to  the  acre  ;  Lower  Canada,  where 
agriculture  has  not  received  the  same  development, 
yields  a  smaller  proportion  to  the  acre,  but  the  wheat 
is  of  excellent  quality.  In  Upper  Canada  the  yield 
of  oats  is  about  30  bushels  to  the  acre;  in  Lower 
Canada  it  is  23  bushels.  Barley  is  a  little  less  in 
Upper,  and  about  the  same  as  oats  in  Lower  Can- 
ada, and  Indian  corn  is  about  as  much  as  oats.  The 
potato  yields  from  125  to  176  bushels  per  acre.  All 
these  crops,  as  well  as  those  of  roots  of  every  de- 
scription, are  increasing  rapidly,  and  it  is  calculated 
that  the  value  of  the  farms  of  Upper  Canada  is  no 
less  than  60,000,000/.  sterling,  whilst  the  live  stock  in 
the  same  Province  was  estimated  to  be  worth  nearly 
9,000,000/.  In  1860  the  value  of  the  timber  exported 
was  1,750,000/.,  and  the  forest  yielded  altogether 
just  2,000,000/.  sterhng.  As  there  is  reason  to  know 
that  in  1851  the  value  of  agricultural  exports  was 
6,000,000/.,  it  may  be  assumed  with  some  degree  of 
certainty  as  a  near  approximation  that  Canada  sends 
abroad  about  ten  millions'  worth  of  forest  and  farm 
produce.  It  is  estimated  that  the  imports  of  the 
same  year  were  worth  eighteen  millions  sterling. 

There  are  many  other  illustrations  of  the  rapidity 
of  Canadian  increase,  but  the  foregoing  must  suffice 
for  the  purposes  of  this  volume.  It  is  only  surpris- 
ing that  the  Provinces  should  have  advanced  at  all, 
considering  the  misrepresentations  which  have  been 
circulated  concerning  their  climate,  condition,  and 
prospects,  and  the  attractions  held  forth  to  emigrants 
by  the  United  States. 

The  popular  idea  as  to  the  barrenness  and  cold  of 
Canada  would  be  most  effectually  dispelled  by  a 
glance  at  garden  products  and  cereals  in  autumn 
only,  or  by  the  experience  of  a  winter  in  New  York 
and  a  winter  in  London  or  Hamilton.  The  author 
of  a  pamphlet,  published  by  authority  of  the  Bureau 
of  Agriculture,  observes :  — 


II 


:«?! 


1; 


218 


CANADA. 


I         ! 


I'  h} 


"  The  most  erroneous  opinions  have  prevailed 
abroad  respecting  the  climate  of  Canada.  The  so- 
called  rigor  of  Canadian  winters  is  often  advanced 
as  a  serious  objection  to  the  country  by  many  who 
have  not  the  courage  to  encounter  them,  who  prefer 
sleet  and  fog  to  brilliant  skies  and  bracing  cold,  and 
who  have  yet  to  learn  the  value  and  extent  of  the 
blessings  conferred  upon  Canada  by  her  world-re- 
nowned '  snows.' 

"  It  will  scarcely  be  believed  by  many  who  shudder 
at  the  idea  of  the  thermometer  fallen  to  zero,  that 
the  gradual  annual  diminution  in  the  fall  of  snow,  in 
certain  localities,  is  a  subject  of  lamentation  to  the 
farmers  in  Western  Canada.  Their  desire  is  for  the 
old-fashioned  winters,  with  sleighing  for  four  months, 
and  spring  bursting  upon  them  with  marvellous 
beauty  at  the  beginning  of  April.  A  bountiful  fall 
of  snow,  with  hard  frost,  is  equivalent  to  the  con- 
struction of  the  best  macadamized  roads  all  over  the 
country.  The  absence  of  a  sufficient  quantity  of 
snow  in  winter  for  sleighing,  is  a  calamity  as  mach 
to  be  feared  and  deplored  as  the  want  of  rain  in 
spring.  Happily  neither  of  these  deprivations  is  of 
frequent  occurrence. 

"  The  climate  of  Canada  is  in  some  measure  ex- 
ceptional, especially  that  of  the  Peninsular  portion. 
The  influence  of  the  great  Lakes  is  very  strikingly 
felt  in  the  elevation  of  winter  temperatures  and  in 
the  reduction  of  summer  heats.  East  and  West  of 
Canada,  beyond  the  influence  of  the  Lakes,  as  in 
the  middle  of  the  States  of  New  York  and  Iowa, 
the  greatest  extremes  prevail,  —  intense  cold  in  win- 
ter, intense  heat  in  summer,  and  to  these  features 
may  be  added  their  usual  attendant,  drought. 

"  Perhaps  the  popular  standard  of  the  adaptation  of 
climate  to  the  purposes  of  agriculture  is  more  suit- 
able for  the  present  occasion  than  a  reference  to 
monthly  and  annual  means  of  temperature.  Much 
information  is  conveyed  in  the  simple  narration  of 


CHARACTERISTICS  OF  THE  CLDIATE. 


219 


facts  bearing  upon  fruit  culture.  From  the  head  of 
Lake  Ontario,  round  by  the  Niagara  frontier,  and  all 
along  the  Canadian  shores  of  Lake  Erie,  the  grape 
and  peach  grow  with  luxuriance,  and  ripen  to  per- 
fection in  the  open  air,  without  the  slightest  artifi- 
cial aid.  The  island  of  Montreal  is  distinguished 
everywhere  for  the  fine  quality  of  its  apples,  and  the 
island  of  Orleans,  below  Quebec,  is  equally  cele- 
brated for  its  plums.  Over  the  whole  of  Canada 
the  melon  and  tomato  acquire  large  dimensions,  and 
ripen  fully  in  the  open  air,  the  seeds  being  planted  in 
the  soil  towards  the  latter  end  of  April,  and  ^lie  fruit 
gathered  in  September.  Pumpkins  and  squashes 
attain  gigantic  dimensions ;  they  have  exceeded  300 
pounds  in  weight  in  the  neighborhood  of  Toronto. 
Indian  corn,  hops,  and  tobacco  are  common  crops, 
and  yield  fair  returns.  Hernp  and  flax  are  indige- 
nous plants,  and  can  be  cultivated  to  any  extent  in 
many  parts  of  the  Province.  With  a  proper  expen- 
diture of  capital,  England  could  be  made  quite  inde- 
pendent of  Russia,  or  any  ot'^er  country,  for  her 
supply  of  these  valuable  products. 

"  The  most  striking  illustration  of  the  influence 
of  the  great  Lakes  in  ameliorating  the  climate  of 
Canada,  especially  of  the  western  peninsula,  is  to  be 
found  in  the  natural  limits  to  which  certain  trees  are 
restricted  by  climate.  That  valuable  wood,  the  black 
walnut,  for  which  Canada  is  so  celebrated,  ceases  to 
grow  north  of  latitude  41°  on  the  Atlantic  coast,  but 
under  the  influence  of  the  comparatively  mild  Lake 
climate  of  Peninsular  Canada  it  is  found  in  the 
greatest  profusion,  and  of  the  largest  dimensions,  as 
far  north  as  latitude  43°." 

This  subject  is  well  illustrated  by  the  subjoined 
table,  showing  the  mean  temperature  and  rainfall  at 
Toronto  from  1840  to  1859  :  — 


i 


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r 


220 


CANADA. 


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PROGRESS  OF  CULTIVATION. 


221 


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The  Rev.  Mr.  Hope,  who  has  been  indefatigable 
in  his  efforts  to  promote  the  interest  of  his  adopted 
country,  quotes  the  following  passage  from  the  To- 
ronto "  Globe  "  of  September  21st,  1860,  to  show  that 
people  at  home  are  much  mistaken  in  considering 
Canada  a  region  of  frost  and  snow. 

"  The  display  of  fruit,  in  quantity  and  quality,  sur- 
passed what  has  been  shown  at  any  previous  exhi- 
bition. The  results  in  this  department  were  very 
satisfactory,  proving  that  the  climate  of  Canada 
admirably  adapts  it  for  the  raising  of  many  of  the 
most  valuable  kinds  of  fruit.  One  of  the  principal 
exhibitors  was  Mr.  Beadle  of  St.  Catharine's  nur- 
series. On  one  side  of  the  central  stand  in  the  Crys- 
tal Palace,  he  had  115  plates  of  apples,  pears,  peaches, 
&c.,  and  30  jars  of  cherries,  currants,  raspberries, 
blackberries,  6rc,  Mr.  Beadle  exhibited  ten  varieties 
of  peaches  grown  in  the  open  air.  Several  of  these 
varieties  were  of  very  large  dimensions,  and  were 
much  admired  for  the  delicate  richness  of  their  tints. 
He  exhibited  also  numerous  varieties  of  apples ;  41 
in  one  collection  of  three  of  each  sort,  and  20  in  an- 
other collection  of  six  of  each  sort.  He  had  also  a 
large  show  of  pears,  comprising  a  large  number  of 
varieties.  Among  the  varieties  of  open-air  grapes 
shown  by  Mr.  Beadle,  were  the  Blood-blacks,  the 
Delaware,  the  Diana,  the  Northern  Muscadine,  the 
Perkins,  Sage's  Mammoth,  and  the  Wild  Fox." 

In  1828,  when  the  whole  population  of  Upper 
Canada  amounted  to  185,500  inhabitants,  the  num- 
ber of  acres  under  agricultural  improvement  was 
570,000,  or  about  S^^  for  each  individual ;  in  1851 
the  average  for  each  inhabitant  was  very  nearly  four 
acres.  The  comparative  progress  of  Upper  and  Lower 
Canada,  in  bringing  the  forest-clad  wilderness  into  cul- 
tivation, may  be  inferred  from  the  following  table :  — 

LOWER  CANADA.  UPPER  CANADA. 

Year        No.  acres  cultivated.  No.  acres  cultivated. 

1831 2,065,913 818,432 

1844 2,802,317 2,1G«,101 


;-:  4 


i  ■ 


i 


1851. 


.3,605,376 3,695,763 


Vi 


222 


CANADA. 


Hence,  in  a  period  of  twenty  years,  Lower  Canada 
increased  her  cultivated  acres  by  .75,  and  Upper  Can- 
ada by  3.0.  Before  proceeding  to  describe  in  detail 
the  progress  of  agriculture  in  Upper  Canada,  it  will 
be  advisable  to  glance  at  the  efforts  made  by  socie- 
ties and  the  Government  of  the  Province  to  elevate 
the  condition  of  husbandry  in  all  its  departments, 
and  to  induce  the  people  at  large  to  join  hand  in 
hand  in  the  march  of  improvement. 

The  Board  of  Agriculture  for  Lower  Canada  took 
decisive  steps  during  the  year  1862  to  secure  the 
proper  disbursements  of  the  provincial  grant,  and  to 
devote  liberal   awards  of  public  money  to  the  pro- 
motion of  agricultural  industry  in  all  its  important 
branches.     The  Lower  Canadian  Provincial  Shows 
had  previously  partaken  more  of  the  character  of  an 
agricultural  festival  than  of  a  meeting  for  the  pur- 
pose of  securing  the  progress  of  the  science  and  art 
of   Agriculture  by  fair   and  open  competition  and 
peaceful  rivalry.     In  this  respect  they  differed  mate- 
rially from  the  same  annual  expositions  in  Upper 
Canada,  where  astonishing  advances  in  the  proper 
direction  had  been   made.     The  Board  determined 
to  establish  an   Agricultural  Museum,  and  to  give 
assistance  to  county  societies  towards  the  importa- 
tion of  improved  breeds  of  horses,  cattle,  and  sheep. 
The  Board  is  willing  to  advance  to  any  society  funds 
for  the  purchase  of  stock,  retaining  one  third  of  the 
annual,  government  allowance  for  three  successive 
years  to  discharge  the  debt  thus  incuiTed.     If  this 
new  spirit  of  enterprise  should  continue,  the  progress 
of  agriculture  in  Lower  Canada  will  be  much  accel- 
erated.   Although  it  must  be  acknowledged  that  in 
the  face  of  many  difficulties,  national  prejudices,  and 
peculiarities  of  character,  a  very  marked   improve- 
ment has  taken  place  in  many  departments  of  hus- 
bandry, and  in   many  parts  of  the  Lower  Province, 
much,  very  much,  remains  to  be  done.    The  influence 
exercised  by  the  Agricultural  f^chool  at  St.  Anne  is 


AGRICULTURE. 


223 


;r  Canada 
pper  Can- 
3  in  detail 
.da,  it  will 
by  socie- 
to  elevate 
partmenta, 
n  hand  in 

inada  took 
secure  the 
tnt,  and  to 
o  the  pro- 
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dal  Shows 
icter  of  an 
)r  the  pur- 
ice  and  art 
etition  and 
[ered  mate- 
in  Upper 
;he  proper 
determined 
id  to  give 
e  importa- 
and  sheep, 
ciety  funds 
hird  of  the 
successive 
d.     If  this 
e  progress 
luch  accel- 
;ed  that  in 
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improve- 
rs of  hus- 
Province, 
e  influence 
•t.  Anne  is 


already  favorably  felt,  and  this  establishment  appears 
likely  to  work  a  beneficial  change  in  Lower  Canadian 
husbandry.  The  details  of  its  operations  show  its 
great  utility. 

The  indirect  assistance  given  by  the  imperial 
Government  to  Agriculture  in  Upper  Canada  dates 
from  a  much  earlier  period  than  the  encouragement 
given  to  Agricultural  Societies  by  the  Provincial 
Government;  for  we  find  among  the  donation  of 
George  III.  to  the  U.  E.  Loyalists  the  old  English 
plough.  It  consisted  of  a  small  piece  of  n  fixed 
to  the  coulter,  having  the  shape  of  the  letter  L,  the 
shank  of  which  went  through  the  wooden  beam,  the 
foot  forming  the  point,  which  was  sharpened  for  use. 
One  handle,  and  a  plank  split  from  a  curved  piece 
of  timber,  which  did  the  duty  of  a  mould-board,  com- 
pleted the  rude  implement.  At  that  time  the  traces 
and  leading  lines  were  made  of  the  bark  of  the  elm 
or  bass-wood,  which  was  manufactured  by  the  early 
settlers  in  ;o  a  strong  rope.  About  the  year  1808  the 
"  hog-plough  "  was  imported  from  the  United  States  ; 
and  in  1815  a  plough  with  a  cast-iron  share  and 
mould-board,  all  in  one  piece,  was  one  of  the  first  im- 
plements, requiring  more  than  an  ordinary  degree  of 
mechanical  skill,  which  was  manufactured  in  the 
province.  The  seeds  of  improvement  were  then  sown, 
and  while  in  the  address  of  the  President  at  the 
Frontenac  Cattle  Show  in  1833,  we  observe  atten- 
tion called  to  the  necessity  for  further  improvement 
in  the  ploughs  common  throughout  the  country,  we 
witness,  in  1855,  splendid  fruit  at  the  Paris  Exhibi- 
tion. In  a  notice  of  the  trial  of  ploughs  at  Trappes, 
the  "Journal  d' Agriculture  Pratique"  makes  the 
following  reference  to  a  Canadian  plough  :  "  The 
ploughing  tests  were  brought  to  a  close  by  a  trial 
of  two  ploughs  equally  remarkable  —  to  wit,  the 
plough  of  Ransome  and  Sims,  of  Suffolk,  England, 
and  that  of  Bingham,  of  Norwich,  Upper  Canada. 
The  ^rst  is  of  wood  and  iron,  like  all  the  English 


f 

I 


vn 


i    -I 


I  f. 


824 


CANADA. 


ploughs,  and  the  results  which  it  produced  seemed 
most  satisifactory,  but  it  a[)peared  to  require  a  little 
more  draught  than  the  Howard  plough.  Bingham's 
plough  very  much  resembles  the  English  plough  ;  it 
is  very  fine  and  light  in  its  build  ;  the  handles  are 
longer  than  ordinary,  which  makes  the  plough  much 
more  easy  to  manage.  The  opinion  of  the  French 
laborers  and  workmen  who  were  there,  appeared,  on 
the  whole,  very  favorable  to  this  plough." 

The  following  extracts  from  Mr.  Hogan's  book  are 
as  truthful  as  they  are  eloquent :  — 

"  Great  as  has  been  the  prosperity  of  America,  and 
of  the  settlements  which  mark  the  magnificent  coun- 
try just  described,  yet  nature  has  not  been  wooed  in 
them  without  trials,  nor  have  her  treasures  been  won 
without  a  struggle  worthy  of  their  worth.  Those 
who  have  been  in  the  habit  of  passing  early  clearings 
in  Upper  Canada  must  have  been  struck  with  the 
cheerless  and  lonely,  even  desolate  appearance  of  the 
first  settler's  little  log  hut.  In  the  midst  of  a  dense 
forest,  and  with  a  '  patch  of  clearing '  scarcely  large 
enough  to  let  the  sun  shine  in  upon  him,  he  looks 
not  unlike  a  person  struggling  for  existence  on  a 
single  plank  in  the  middle  of  an  ocean.  For  weeks, 
often  for  months,  he  sees  not  the  face  of  a  stranger. 
The  same  still,  and  wild,  and  boundless  forest  every 
morning  rises  up  to  his  view ;  and  his  only  hope 
against  its  shutting  him  in  for  life  rests  in  the  axe 
upon  his  shoulder.  A  few  blades  of  corn,  peeping 
up  between  stumps  whose  very  roots  interlace,  they 
are  so  close  together,  are  his  sole  safeguards  against 
want ;  whilst  the  few  potato  plants,  in  little  far- 
between  *  hills,'  and  which  struggle  for  existence 
against  the  brier-bush  and  luxuriant  underwood, 
are  to  form  the  seeds  of  his  future  plenty.  Tall 
pine-trees,  girdled  and  blackened  by  the  fires,  stand 
out  as  grim  monuments  of  the  prevailing  loneliness, 
whilst  the  forest  itself,  like  an  immense  wall  round 
a  fortress,  seems  to  say  to  the  settler,  — '  How  can 


A   SETTLER'S   LIFE. 


225 


m's  book  are 


poverty  ever  expect  to  escape  from  such  a  priscn- 
house.' 

"  That  little  clearing  —  for  I  describe  a  reality  — 
which  to  others  might  afford  such  slender  guarantee 
for  bare  subsistence,  was  nevertheless  a  source  of 
bright  and  cheering  dreams  to  that  lonely  settler. 
He  looked  at  it,  and  instead  of  thinking  of  its  little- 
ness, it  was  the  foundation  of  great  hopes  of  a  largo 
farm  and  rich  corn-fields  to  him.  And  this  very  dream, 
or  poetry,  or  what  you  will,  cheered  him  at  his  lonely 
toil,  and  made  him  contented  with  his  rude  fireside. 
The  blades  of  corn,  which  you  might  regard  as  con- 
veying but  a  tantalizing  idea  of  human  comforts, 
were  associated  by  him  with  large  stacks  and  full 
granaries  ;  and  the  very  thought  nerved  his  arm,  and 
made  him  happy. 

"  Seven  years  afterwards  I  passed  that  same  set- 
tler's cottage  —  it  was  in  the  valley  of  the  Grand 
River  in  Upper  Canada,  not  far  from  the  present  vil- 
lage of  Caledonia.  The  little  log  hut  was  used  as  a 
bp'^.k  kitchen  to  a  neat  two-story-frame-house,  painted 
white.  A  large  barn  stood  near  by,  with  stock  of 
every  description  in  its  yard.  The  stumps,  round 
which  the  blades  of  corn,  when  I  last  saw  the  place, 
had  so  much  difficulty  in  springing  up,  had  nearly 
all  disappeared.  Luxuriant  Indian  corn  had  sole  pos- 
session of  the  place  where  the  potatoes  had  so  hard 
a  struggle  against  the  brier-bushes  and  the  under- 
wood. The  forest  —  dense,  impenetrable  though  it 
seemed — had  been  pushed  far  back  by  the  energetic 
arm  of  man.  A  garden,  bright  with  flowers,  and 
enclosed  in  a  neat  picket-fence,  fronted  the  house  ;  a 
young  orchard  spread  out  in  rear.  I  met  a  farmer 
as  I  was  quitting  the  scene,  returning  from  church 
with  his  wife  and  family.  It  was  on  a  Sunday,  and 
there  was  nothing  in  their  appearance,  save  perhaps 
a  healthy  brown  color  in  their  faces,  to  distinguish 
them  from  persons  of  wealth  in  cities.  The  wagon 
they  were  in,  their  horses,  harness,  dresses,  everything 


1, 


^^H 


h 


226 


CANADA. 


f-. 


I'T 


about  them,  in  short,  indicated  comfort  and  easy  cir- 
cumstances. I  inquired  of  the  man  —  who  was  the 
owner  of  the  property  I  have  just  been  describing? 
*  It  is  mine,  sir,'  he  replied;  '  I  settled  on  it  nine 
years  ago,  and  have,  thank  God,  had  tolerable  suc- 
cess.' 

"  There  is,  perhaps,  no  class  in  the  world  who  live 
better — I  mean  who  have  a  greater  abundance  of 
the  comforts  of  life  —  than  men  having  cleared  farms, 
and  who  know  how  to  make  a  proper  use  of  them, 
in  Upper  Canada.  The  imports  of  the  country  show 
that  they  dress  not  only  well,  but  in  many  things 
expensively.  You  go  into  a  church  or  meeting-house 
in  any  part  of  the  province  which  has  been  settled 
for  fifteen  or  twenty  years,  and  you  are  struck  at 
once  with  the  fabrics,  as  well  as  the  style  of  the 
dresses  worn  by  both  sexes,  but  especially  by  the 
young.  The  same  shawls,  and  bonnets,  and  gowns 
which  you  see  in  cities,  are  worn  by  the  women, 
whilst  the  coats  of  the  men  are  undistinguishable 
from  those  worn  by  professional  men  and  merchants 
in  towns.  A  circumstance  which  I  witnessed  some 
years  ago,  in  travelling  from  Simcoe  to  Brantford  — 
two  towns  in  the  interior  of  the  province  —  will  serve 
to  convey  an  idea  of  the  taste  as  well  as  the  means 
of  enjoyment  of  these  people.  At  an  ordinary  Meth- 
odist meeting-house,  in  the  centre  of  a  rural  settle- 
ment, and  ten  miles  from  a  village  or  town,  there 
were  twenty-three  pleasure  carriages^  double  and  sin- 
gle, standing  in  waiting.  The  occasion  was  a  quar- 
terly meeting,  and  these  were  the  conveyances  of  the 
farmers  who  came  to  attend  it.  Yet  twenty  years 
before,  and  this  was  a  wilderness;  twenty  years 
before,  and  many  of  these  people  were  working  as 
laborers,  and  were  not  possessed  of  a  pair  of  oxen ; 
twenty  years  before,  and  these  things  exceeded  even 
their  brightest  dreams  of  prosperity. 

"  The  settler  who  nobly  pushes  back  the  giant 
wilderness,  and  hews  out  for  himself  a  home  upon 


StaJP  f 


THE  CANADIAN   SETTLER. 


227 


the  conquered  territory,  has  necessarily  but  a  bony 
hand  and  a  rough  visage  to  present  to  advancing 
civilization.  His  children,  too,  are  timid,  and  wild, 
and  uncouth.  But  a  stranger  comes  in,  buys  the 
little  improvement  on  the  next  lot  to  him,  has  chil- 
dren who  are  educated,  and  a  wife  with  refined 
tastes,  —  for  such  peoph;  mark,  in  greater  or  less  num- 
bers, every  settlement  in  Upper  Canada.  The  neces- 
sities of  the  new-comer  soon  bring  about  an  acquaint- 
ance with  the  old  pioneer.  Their  families  meet  — 
timid  and  awkward  enough  at  first,  perhaps;  but 
children  know  not  the  conventionalities  of  society, 
and,  happily,  are  governed  by  their  innocence  in  their 
friendships.  So  they  play  together,  go  to  school  in 
company  ;  and  thus,  imperceptibly  to  themselves,  are 
the  tastes  and  manners  of  the  educated  imparted  to 
the  rude,  and  the  energy  and  fortitude  of  the  latter 
are  infused  into  their  more  effeminate  companions. 
Manly  but  ill-tutored  success  is  thus  taught  how  to 
enjoy  its  gains,  whilst  respec  i  able  poverty  is  instructed 
how  to  better  its  condition.  That  pride  occasionally 
puts  itself  to  inconvenience  to  prevent  these  pleasant 
results,  my  experience  of  Canada  forces  me  to  admit; 
and  that  the  jealousy  and  vanity  of  mere  success 
sometimes  views  with  unkindness  the  nianner  and 
habit  of  reduced  respectability  —  never  perhaps  more 
exacting  than  when  it  is  poorest — I  must  also  ac- 
knowledge. But  that  the  great  law  of  progress,  and 
the  influence  of  free  institutions,  break  down  these 
exceptional  feelings  and  prejudices,  is  patent  to  every 
close  observer  of  Canadian  society.  Where  the  edu- 
cated and  refined  undergo  the  changes  incident  to 
laborious  occupations,  —  for  the  constant  use  of  the 
axe  and  the  plough  alters  men's  feelings  as  well  as 
their  appearances,  —  and  vhere  rude  industry  is  also 
changed  by  the  success  which  gives  it  the  benefit  of 
education,  it  is  impossible  for  the  two  classes  not  to 
meet.  As  the  one  goes  down  —  at  least  in  its  occu- 
pations—  it  meets  the  other  coming  up  by  reason 


228 


CANADA. 


W 


1 


I 


m- 


IP"*' 


of  its  successes,  and  both  eventually  occupy  the  same 
pedestal.  I  have  seen  tiiis  social  problem  worked 
out  over  and  over  again  in  Upper  Canada,  and  have 
never  known  the  result  different.  Pride,  in  America, 
must  'stoop  to  conquer;'  rude  industry  rises  always. 
"  The  manner  of  living  cf  the  Upper  Canadian 
farmei  may  be  summed  up  in  few  words.  He  has 
plenty,  and  he  enioys  it.  The  native  Canadians 
almost  universally,  and  a  large  proportion  of  the  old 
country  peopje,  sit  at  the  saniC  table  with  their  ser- 
vants or  laborers.  They  eat  meat  twice,  and  many 
of  them  thrice  a  day ;  it  being  apparently  more  a 
matter  of  taste  than  of  economy  as  to  the  number  of 
times.  Pork  is  what  they  chiefly  consume.  There 
being  a  great  abundance  of  fruit,  scarcely  a  cleared 
farm  is  without  an  orchard ;  and  it  is  to  be  found 
preserved  in  various  ways  on  every  farmer's  table. 
Milk  is  in  great  abundance,  even  in  the  early  settler's 
houses,  for  where  there  is  little  pasture  there  are  sure 
to  be  large  woods,  and  '  brouse,'  or  the  tops  of  the 
branches  of  trees,  supply  the  place  of  hay.  The 
sweetest  bread  I  have  eaten  in  America  I  have  eaten 
in  the  farmers'  houses  of  Upper  Canada.  They 
usually  grind  the  '  shorts '  with  the  flour  for  home 
consumption,  and  as  their  wheat  is  among  the  finest 
in  the  world,  the  bread  is  at  once  wholesome  and 
exceedingly  delicious.  Were  I  asked  what  is  the 
characteristic  of  Canadian  farmers,  1  would  unhesi- 
tatingly answer  '  Plenty ! ' " 


Sll  U^-K 


BECIPROCAL  RIGHTS. 


229 


py  the  same 
lem  worked 
la,  and  have 
in  America, 
•ises  always. 
:x  Canadian 
ds.     He  has 
1    Canadians 
)n  of  the  old 
ith  their  ser- 
e,  and  many 
mtly  more  a 
le  number  of 
ume.     There 
ely  a  cleared 
to  be  found 
irmer's  table, 
early  settler's 
there  are  sure 
e  tops  of  the 
)f  hay.     The 
I  have  eaten 
nada.     They 
ur  for  home 
ng  the  finest 
olesome  and 
what  is  the 
ould  unhesi- 


CHAPTER  XV. 

Reciprocal  Rights.  —  American  Ideas  of  Reciprocity.  —  The  Ad  Valorem 
System.  —  Commercial  Improvements.  —  Trade  with  America.  —  The 
Ottawa  Route.  —  The  Saskatchewan.  —  Fertility  of  tiie  Country.  — 
Water  Communication.  —  The  Maritime  Provinces.  —  Area  and  Popu- 
lation. 

The  absence  of  a  winter  port  is  an  evil  to  Canada, 
for  which  no  energy  and  no  advantages  can  compen- 
sate. Although  Halifax  has  a  magnificent  harbor, 
New  Brunswick  and  Nova  Scotia  offer  but  small 
facilities  for  winter  navigation ;  and  the  day  seems 
distant  when  the  great  railroad  of  which  so  much  has 
been  spoken  and  written  shall  open  the  communica- 
tion between  England  and  the  remotest  portions  of 
the  vast  empire  which  reaches  from  the  Atlantic  to 
the  Pacific. 

The  position  of  Canada  threw  her  into  close  rela- 
tions with  the  United  States,  and  the  result  of  her 
geographical  condition  was  the  Reciprocity  Treaty, 
which  has  caused  so  much  discussion  and  discontent 
on  both  sides  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  and  which  the 
Government  of  the  Federal  States  has  now  given 
notice  to  terminate. 

In  March,  1862,  the  report  of  the  Committee  of  the 
Executive  Council,  to  which  an  able  paper  of  Mr. 
Gait,  then  Finance  Minister,  had  been  referred,  ad- 
vised that  the  views  and  suggestions  therein  expressed 
by  Mr.  Gait  should  be  adopted,  and  that  report  was 
approved  by  Lord  Monck.  Mr.  Gait's  Report  was 
founded  on  a  reference  made  to  him  of  the  report  of 
the  Committee  on  Commerce  of  the  House  of  Rep- 
resentatives at  Washington  respecting  the  Reciproc- 
ity Treaty,  and  of  a  memorial  from  the  Chamber  of 

Commerce  of  Minnesota. 

11 


IE 


If 


230 


CANADA. 


u 


p. 

m 


I 


The  House  of  Representatives  reported  in  favor  of 
a  system  resembling  that  of  the  "  Zollverein  "  as  the 
only  means  of  securing  the  benefits  of  reciprocal 
trade,  and  recommended  as  desirable  a  uniform  sys- 
tem of  light-houses,  copyrights,  postage,  patents, 
telegraphs,  weights  and  measures,  and  coinage. 

This  was  a  favorite  scheme  of  the  late  Senator 
Douglas ;  and  if  the  American  Government  had  ex- 
hibited any  desire  to  diminish  the  rigors  of  Morrill 
Tariffs  and  of  State  protective  enactments,  we  might 
applaud  the  liberality  of  their  views  and  the  noble 
candor  of  their  conclusions.  They  believed  that 
"  free  commercial  intercourse  between  the  United 
States  and  the  British  North  American  Provinces, 
developing  the  natural,  geographical,  and  other  ad- 
vantages of  each  for  the  good  of  all,  is  conducive  to 
the  present  interests  of  each,  and  is  the  proper  basis 
of  our  intercourse  for  all  time  to  come  "  —  sentiments 
certainly  noble,  if  somewhat  vaguely  expressed.  We 
will  see  presently  how  Mr.  Gait  deals  with  the  prac- 
tical rendering  of  them  by  the  Federal  Government. 
The  Reciprocity  Treaty,  negotiated  between  Lord 
Elgin  and  Mr.  Marcey  in  June,  1854,  was  entered 
into  to  avoid  further  misunderstanding  in  regard  to 
the  extent  of  the  right  of  fishing  on  the  coasts  of 
British  North  America,  and  to  regulate  the  commerce 
and  navigation  between  the  respective  territories  and 
people  in  such  a  manner  o.^  to  render  the  same  recip- 
rocally beneficial  and  satisfactory. 

The  Convention  secured  to  American  fishermen  the 
liberty  of  taking,  curing,  and  drying  fish  on  the  Brit- 
ish North  American  coast  generally ;  the  Treaty  ex- 
tended to  them  the  liberty  to  take  fish  of  every  kind 
(except  shell-fish)  along  the  coast  of  Canada,  New 
Brunswick,  Prince  Edward's  Island,  &c.,  with  per- 
mission to  land,  to  dry  nets,  and  cure  fish,  without 
any  restrictions  as  to  distance  from  shore  —  reserving 
only  the  right  of  private  property  and  the  salmon  and 
shad  fishings  in  the  rivers ;  and  the  same  rights  were 


RECIPROCAL  RIGHTS. 


231 


n  favor  of 
in  "  as  the 
reciprocal 
[liform  sys- 
e,  patents, 
nage. 

te  Senator 
snt  had  ex- 
I  of  Morrill 
s,  we  might 
1  the  noble 
jlieved  that 
the    United 
I  Provinces, 
id  other  ad- 
onducive  to 
proper  basis 
-  sentiments 
>ressed.    We 
ith  the  prac- 
Grovernment. 
;ween  Lord 
was  entered 
in  regard  to 
he  coasts  of 
he  commerce 
rritories  and 
same  recip- 

ishermen  the 
on  the  Brit- 
le  Treaty  ex- 
,f  every  kind 
Canada,  New 
^.,  with  per- 
fish,  without 
—  reserving 
salmon  and 
rights  were 


conceded  to  British  subjects  on  the  eastern  sea-coasta 
of  the  United  States  north  of  the  36th  parallel  of  lati- 
tude. It  provided  that  the  following  articles  should 
be  admitted  duty  free  reciprocally :  Grain,  flour 
and  breadstuffs,  animals,  fresh  and  salt  meat,  cotton- 
seed and  vegetables,  fruit,  fish,  poultry,  hides  and 
skins,  butter,  cheese,  tallow,  lard,  horns,  manure,  ores, 
coal,  stone,  slate,  pitch,  turpentine,  timber  and  lum- 
ber, plants,  firs,  gypsum,  grindstones,  dye-stuffs,  flax, 
rags,  and  unmanufactured  tobacco.  It  gave  to 
Americans  the  right  to  navigate  the  St.  Lawrence 
and  the  Canadian  canals,  subject  to  the  tolls,  and  it 
gave  to  British  subjects  the  right  to  navigate  Lake 
Michigan  ;  but  it  reserved  to  the  British  Government 
the  right  of  suspending,  on  due  notice,  the  privileges 
of  Canadian  navigation,  in  which  event  the  right  of 
British  subjects  to  navigate  Lake  Michigan  should 
also  cease  and  determine,  and  the  United  States 
should  have  the  right  of  suspending  the  free  import 
and  export  of  the  articles  specified.  But  here,  it  will 
be  observed,  there  was  a  one-sided  reciprocity.  The 
Americans  received,  absolutely,  the  right  of  using  all 
the  canals  in  Canada  from  the  British  Government ; 
the  Government  of  the  United  States  conferred  no 
such  privilege  reciprocally  on  British  subjects.  All 
they  did  —  perhaps  all  they  could  do  in  consonance 
with  the  doctrine  of  States  Rights  they  are  so  busily 
engaged  at  present  in  destroying  —  was  to  engage  to 
urge  on  the  State  Governments  to  secure  to  the  sub- 
jects of  Her  Britannic  Majesty  the  use  of  the  several 
ship-canals  on  terms  of  equality  with  the  inhabitants 
of  the  United  States.  It  was  also  provided  that 
"American  lumber  floated  down  to  St.  John  and 
shipped  to  the  United  States  from  New  Brunswick 
should  be  free  of  duty."  This  treaty  was  to  remain 
in  force  for  ten  years  from  the  date  at  which  it  came 
into  operation,  and  further  until  the  expiration  of 
twelve  months  after  either  of  the  contracting  parties 
gave  notice  to  the  other  of  its  wish  to  terminate  the 


^  :y 


.it 


232 


CANADA. 


same  —  each  of  them  being  at  1  jerty  to  give  notice 
at  the  end  of  the  ten  years,  or  at  any  time  afterwards. 
This  treaty  expired  on  the  11th  September,  1864, 
since  which  time  the  United  States  and  Great  Brit- 
ain have  been  free  to  give  notice  of  the  termination 
of  its  provisions,  to  take  effect  in  twelve  months  after 
the  date  of  the  notice.  Of  this  power,  as  already 
stated,  the  United  States  Government  has  availed 
itself.  An  exception  to  the  operation  of  the  treaty  is 
made  in  the  case  of  Newfoundland,  in  res'^ect  to 
which  its  provisions  hold  good  till  Decemt  :i  12th, 
1865.  The  State  of  New  York,  by  its  Legislature, 
urged  Congress  to  protect  the  United  States  from 
what  they  denounced  as  an  "  unequal  and  unjust 
system  of  commerce."  T  y  asserted  that  nearly  all 
the  articles  which  Canada  ht.^  to  sell  are  admitted  into 
the  United  States  free  of  duty,  whilst  heavy  duties 
are  imposed  on  many  articles  of  American  manufac- 
ture, with  the  intention  of  excluding  them  from  the 
Canadian  market ;  and  that  discriminating  tolls  and 
duties,  in  favor  of  an  isolating  and  exclusive  policy 
against  American  merchants  and  forwarders,  to  de- 
stroy the  effect  of  the  treaty  and  in  opposition  to  its 
spirit,  have  been  adopted  by  Canada ;  and  on  these 
grounds  they  demanded  a  change  in  the  system  of 
commerce  now  existing,  to  protect  the  interests  of 
the  United  States  in  the  manner  intended  by  the 
treaty. 

The  Canadian  Minister,  in  reply,  observed  that  the 
treaty  made  no  mention  whatever  of  the  matters  com- 
plained of,  and,  in  a  very  lucid  argument,  charges 
against  the  Legislature  of  the  United  States  the  very 
same  grounds  of  complaint  as  the  Committee  alleged 
against  Canada.  No  accusation  of  an  infraction  of 
the  treaty  is  made,  and  therefore  the  subjects  treated 
of  in  the  Report  affect  the  commercial  relations  and 
not  the  good  faith  of  the  contracting  parties.  The 
Committee  accuse  Canada  of  violating  the  spirit  and 
intent  of  the  treaty,  by  an  increase  of  duties  on  man- 


AMERICAN  IDEAS  OF  RECIPROCITY. 


233 


ufactured  articles,  by  a  change  in  the  mode  of  levying 
duties,  and  by  abolishing  tolls  on  the  St.  Lawrence 
canals  and  river;  but  Mr.  Gait  contends  that  the 
treaty  had  nothing  to  do  with  manufactures,  but  was 
expressly  limited  to  the  growth  and  produce  of  the 
two  countries  mentioned  in  the  schedule.  Those  arti- 
cles not  enumerated  in  it  are  necessarily  excluded 
from  its  operations,  and  must  be  made  the  subject  of 
special  legislation  between  the  two  States  before  any 
act  of  either  respecting  the  mode  of  their  admission 
can  be  made  ground  of  remonstrance. 

As  a  proof  of  the  narrow  spirit  in  which  these  fine 
declaimers  about "  liberty  of  commerce  and  reciprocity 
of  trading  advantages  "  have  dealt  with  the  treaty,  it 
m?y  be  mentioned  that  they  imposed  duties  on  planks 
in  part  planed,  tongued,  or  grooved,  and  on  flour 
ground  in  Canada  from  American  wheat,  and  on 
lumber  nade  in  Canada  out  of  American  logs.  The 
Canadian  Government,  however,  have  maintained, 
both  against  the  Americans  and  the  mother-country, 
their  right  to  decide  for  themselves  both  as  to  the 
mode  and  the  extent  to  which  taxation  should  be  im- 
posed. Declamations  against  a  policy  of  Protection 
come  indeed  with  a  bad  grace  from  the  United 
States;  and  Mr.  Gait,  in  suppressed  sarcasm  and 
irony,  shows  that  their  doctrine  of  Free  Trade  with 
Canada  really  means  an  exclusive  protection  for  them- 
selves against  the  manufactures  of  Great  Britain. 

If  the  gentlemen  who  composed  the  elaborate  Re- 
port, bristling  all  over  with  generous  sentiments  and 
with  the  expression  of  the  most  enlightened  and  lib- 
eral doctrines,  could  blush,  they  might  well  perform 
that  interesting  operation  when  reading  Mr.  Gait's 
reply.  Canada  admits  the  registration  of  foreign 
vessels  without  charge ;  the  United  States  do  not. 
Canada  has  sought  admission  to  the  great  lakes  for 
coasters;  the  United  States  refuse.  Canada  allov/s 
American  vessels  to  pass  free  through  her  canals ;  not 
a  Canadian  vessel  is  allowed,  even  on  payment  of  toll. 


->,  ■ 


234 


CANADA. 


to  enter  an  American  canal.  The  promise  in  the 
treaty,  that  the  Government  of  Washington  would 
urge  on  the  States  the  concession  of  a  right  to  navi- 
gate their  canals  on  equal  terms  with  American  sub- 
jects, has  not  been  kept ;  at  least,  there  is  no  trace  of 
any  effort  having  been  made  to  induce  the  State 
Legislatures  to  relax  their  present  extreme  policy, 
which  is  in  strong  contrast  with  the  professions  of 
their  Committee-men.  Canada  permits  foreign  goods 
bought  in  the  United  States  to  be  imported  on  the 
payment  of  duty  on  the  original  invoice ;  the  United 
States  will  not  permit  similar  purchases  to  be  made 
in  Canada.  Tea  imported  from  Canada  is  weighted 
with  duty  of  ten  per  cent.,  while  the  duties  under 
the  Canadian  tariff  are  very  much  lower  than  those 
levied  in  America.  The  permission  to  pass  goods 
under  bond  through  the  States  conferred  an  obvious 
advantage  on  American  railroads ;  but,  indeed,  the 
Committee  were  fain  to  admit  that  the  United  States 
had  not  established  a  fair  reciprocity,  inasmuch  as 
they  recommend  that  reciprocity  should  be  made 
complete.  Duties  have  been  imposed  in  the  United 
States  for  purposes  of  Protection,  and  they  can 
scarcely  bring  accusations  against  Canada  until  they 
have  established  a  system  of  duties  as  low  as  those 
of  Canada.  The  ad  valorem  system  of  Canada, 
against  which  the  Committee  protest,  is  the  system 
of  the  United  States ;  for  tea  and  sugar  there  is  a 
discriminating  duty  in  favor  of  American  vessels  of 
twenty  per  cent.  Duty  is  levied  in  Canada  solely  for 
purposes  of  revenue ;  and  though  this  policy,  which 
has  led  the  late  minister  and  his  predecessors  to  re- 
duce tolls  and  customs-dues  to  a  minimum,  has 
alarmed  the  canal  and  ship-owners  and  railway  direc- 
tors of  New  York,  it  is  viewed  with  approbation  by 
the  great  Western  States. 

"  It  is,"  says  Mr.  Gait,  "  a  singular  charge  to  make 
of  discrimination  on  our  part  against  them,  that  we 
do  not  permit  one  section  of  our  public  works  to  be 


INCREASE  OF  CUSTOM  DUTIES. 


235 


used  for  purposes  exclusively  beneficial  to  them, 
when  they  absolutely,  and  contrary  to  the  engage- 
ments of  the  treaty,  debar  any  Canadian  vessel  from 
entering  their  waters,  if  we  except  Lake  Michigan, 
specially  mentioned  in  the  treaty.  Surely  Canada 
does  enough  for  them  when  she  places  them  precisely 
on  the  same  footing  as  she  does  her  own  vessels  ; 
and  it  is  a  novel  doctrine  that  because  the  whole  St. 
Lawrence  is  made  free,  therefore  an  injury  is  done  to 
the  New  York  route.  The  remedy  is  simple,  and  in 
their  own  hands ;  let  them  do  as  Canada  has  done 
—  repeal  the  tolls  on  their  canals,  and  admit  Cana- 
dian vessels  to  ply  upon  them  —  and  then  the  desired 
state  of  *  fair  competition '  will  have  arisen.  But 
the  Committee  must  have  formed  but  a  low  estimate 
of  the  intelligence  of  their  own  people  in  the  West, 
when  they  make  it  a  subject  of  complaint  against 
Canada  that  she  has  opened  the  St.  Lawrence  freely 
to  their  trade.  The  undersigned  apprehends  that  the 
inhabitants  of  those  great  States  will  be  much  more 
likely  to  demand  from  their  own  Government  an 
equitable  application  of  their  own  customs-laws,  so  as 
to  permit  them  to  import  direct  vid  the  St.  Lawrence, 
and  to  buy  in  the  Canadian  market,  rather  than  to 
join  with  the  Committee  in  requiring  a  return  to  a 
system  by  which  the  entire  West  has  hitherto  been 
held  in  vassalage  to  the  State  of  New  York." 

Mr.  Gait  argues  that  an  increase  of  customs-duties 
does  not,  necessarily,  injuriously  affect  foreign  trade 
within  certain  limits,  and  that  those  limits  have  not 
been  exceeded  in  Canada.  Formerly  the  cost  of 
British  goods  in  Canada  was  much  enhanced,  owing 
to  natural  causes,  whilst  Canadian  producers  ob- 
tained a  minimum  price  for  their  exports.  The  duty 
was  then  generally  2^  per  cent.,  but  the  price  was 
enormous ;  and  the  Canadian  suffered,  pro  tantOy  in 
his  means  to  purchase  them.  Suppose  the  duties, 
increased  five  per  cent.,  were  to  produce  a  reduction 
of  ten  per  cent,  on  other  charges,  "  the  benefit,"  says 


jll 


■ 


236 


CANADA. 


Mr.  Gait,  "  would  accrue  equally  to  the  British  man- 
ufacturer and  to  the  consumer ;  the  consumer  would 
pay  five  per  cent,  more  to  the  Government,  but  ten 
per  cent,  less  to  the  merchant  and  forwarder."^  As  Mr. 
Gait  considers  the  principle  of  Canadian  finance  and 
customs  to  be  misapprehended  in  England  as  well  as 
in  the  United  States,  it  may  be  as  well  to  give  his 
own  words :  — 

"  The  Government  has  increased  the  duties  for 
the  purpose  of  enabling  them  to  meet  the  interest 
on  the  public  works  necessary  to  reduce  all  the 
various  charges  upon  the  imports  and  exports  of  the 
country.  Light-houses  have  been  built,  and  steam- 
ships subsidized,  to  reduce  the  charges  for  freight  and 
insurance ;  the  St.  Lawrence  has  been  deepened, 
and  the  canals  constructed,  to  reduce  the  cost  of 
inland  navigation  to  a  minimum;  railways  have 
been  assisted,  to  give  speed,  safety,  and  permanency 
to  trade  interrupted  by  the  severity  of  winter.  All 
these  improvements  have  been  undertaken  with  the 
twofold  object  of  diminishing  the  cost  to  the  con- 
sumer of  what  he  imports,  and  of  increasing  the 
net  result  of  the  labor  of  the  country  when  finally 
realized  in  Great  Britain.  These  great  improvements 
could  not  be  effected  without  large  outlays ;  and  the 
burden  necessarily  had  to  be  put  either  through 
direct  taxation,  or  by  customs-duties  on  the  goods  im- 
ported, or  upon  the  trade  by  excessive  tolls  corre- 
sponding with  the  rates  previously  charged.  Direct 
taxation  was  the  medium  employed,  through  the 
local  municipalities,  for  the  construction  of  all  minor 
local  works  —  roads,  court-houses,  and  jails,  educa- 
tion, and  the  vast  variety  of  objects  required  in  a 
newly  settled  country ;  and  this  source  of  taxation 
has  thus  been  used  to  the  full  extent  which  is  be- 
lieved practicable  without  producing  serious  discon- 
tent. No  one  can,  for  a  moment,  argue  that,  in  an 
enlightened  age,  any  Government  could  adopt  such 
a  clumsy  mode  of  raising  money   as   to   maintain 


COMMERCIAL  IMPROVEMENT. 


237 


■itish  man- 
mer  would 
it,  but  ten 
r.'^  AaMr. 
inance  and 
I  as  well  as 
to  give  his 

1  duties  for 
the  interest 
ice    all    the 
ports  of  the 
and  steam- 
r  freight  and 
n  deepened, 
the  cost  of 
Iways   have 
permanency 
winter.     All 
sen  with  the 
to  the  con- 
jreasing  the 
hen  finally 
.provements 
,ys;  and  the 
|her   through 
[6  goods  im- 
tolls  corre- 
;ed.     Direct 
hrough  the 
of  all  minor 
jails,  educa- 
iquired  in  a 
of  taxation 
ivhich  is  be- 
ious  discon- 
that,  in  an 
adopt  such 
;o   maintain 


excessive  rates  of  tolls;  nor  would  it  have  attained 
the  object,  as  American  channels  of  trade  were 
created  simultaneously,  that  would  then  have  defied 
competition.  The  only  eft'ect,  therefore,  of  attempt- 
ing such  course,  would  have  been  to  give  the  United 
States  the  complete  control  of  our  markets,  and 
virtually  to  exclude  British  goods.  The  only  other 
course  was  therefore  adopted,  and  the  producer  has 
been  required  to  pay,  through  increased  customs- 
duties,  for  the  vastly  greater  deductions  he  secured 
through  the  improvements  referred  to.  What  then 
has  been  the  result  to  the  British  manufacturer? 
His  goods  are,  it  is  true,  in  many  cases  subjected  to 
20  per  cent,  instead  of  2^  per  cent.,  but  the  cost  to 
the  consumer  has  been  diminished  in  a  very  much 
greater  degree ;  and  the  aggregate  of  cost,  original 

{>rice,  duty,  freight,  and  charges,  are  now  very  much 
ess  than  when  the  duty  was  2^  per  cent.,  and  con- 
sequently the  legitimate  protection  to  the  home- 
manufacturer  Is  to  this  extent  diminished.  Nor  ia 
this  all :  the  interest  of  the  British  manufacturer  is 
not  merely  that  he  shall  be  able  to  lay  down  his 
goods  at  the  least  cost  to  the  consumer,  but  equally 
is  «he  interested  in  the  ability  of  the  consumer  to  buy. 
Now,  this  latter  point  is  attained  precisely  through 
the  same  means  which  have  cheapened  the  goods. 
The  produce  of  Canada  is  now  increased  in  value 
exactly  in  proportion  to  the  saving  on  the  cost  of  de- 
livering it  in  the  market  of  consumption. 

"  If  the  aggregate  of  cost  to  the  consumer  re- 
mained the  same  now  as  it  was  before  the  era  of 
canals  and  railroads  in  Canada,  what  possible 
difference  would  it  make  to  the  British  manufacturers 
whether  the  excess  over  the  cost  in  Great  Britain 
were  paid  to  the  Government  or  to  merchants  and 
forwarders  ?  It  would  certainly  not  in  any  way 
affect  the  question  of  the  protection  to  home-manu- 
facturers ;  but  when  it  can  be  clearly  shown  that  by 

the    action   of   the   Government,  in   raising  funds 

11  ♦ 


tr^wtry 


w 


■  ■'  I 


238 


CANADA. 


i .  ■■ 


through  increased  customs  -  duties,  the  cost  to  the 
consumer  is  now  very  much  less,  upon  what  ground 
can  the  British  manufacturer  complf^iu  that  these 
duties  have  been  restrictive  on  his  trad'^  * 

"  The  undersigned  might  truly  point  to  the  rapid 
increase  in  the  population  and  wealth  of  Canada, 
arising  from  its  policy  of  improvement,  whereby  its 
ability  of  consumption  has  been  so  largely  increased. 
He  might  also  show  that  these  improvements  have, 
in  a  great  degree,  also  tended  to  the  rapid  advance 
of  the  Western  States,  and  to  their  increased  ability 
to  purchase  British  goods.  He  might  point  to  the 
fact  that  the  grain  supplied  from  the  Western  States 
and  Canada  keeps  down  prices  in  Great  Britain, 
and  therefore  enables  the  British  manufacturer  to 
produce  still  cheaper.  But  he  prefers  resting  his 
case,  as  to  the  propriety  of  imposing  increased  cus- 
toms-duties, solely  on  the  one  point,  that  through 
that  increase  the  cost  of  British  manufactured  goods, 
including  duty,  has  been  reduced  to  the  Canadian 
consumer,  and  that  consequently  the  increase  has  in 
its  results,  viewing  the  whole  trade,  tended  to  an 
augmentation  of  the  market  for  British  goods." 

In  a  tabular  statement  it  is  shown  that  the  average 
amount  of  duty  levied  on  imports  from  the  United 
States  in  1861  is  the  same  as  the  average  of  the 
previous  twelve  years,  that  the  variations  have  been 
very  slight,  and  that  the  rate  per  cent,  was  less  than 
half  what  it  had  been  a  few  years  before,  whilst 
American  trade  has  been  steadily  increasing.  Under 
the  operation  of  the  treaty,  the  imports  from  the 
United  States,  in  1861,  were  nearly  trebled,  and  the 
exports  from  Canada  to  the  United  States  were 
nearly  quadrupled ;  the  whole  amount  of  trade  in 
1851  being,  in  round  numbers,  12,500,000  dollars, 
which  was  increased  to  24,000,000  dollars  in  1854, 
and  to  35,500,000  dollars  in  1861.  These  advan- 
tages may  be  still  further  extended  without  injury  to 
either  nation  or  to  the  just  claims  of  Great  Britain  to 


THE  OTTAWA  K()(TTK. 


239 


an  equality  in  the  Canadian  market ;  and  Mr.  Gait 
professed  himself  quite  ready  for  the  abolition  of  the 
coasting  laws  on  inland  waters  —  of  all  discrimina- 
tion as  to  nationality  in  respect  of  vessels  —  the  free 
import  of  wooden  wares,  agricultural  implements, 
machinery,  and  books,  the  assimilation  of  the  patent- 
laws  ;  but  he  totally  opposes  the  project  of  a  ZoU- 
verein,  on  the  ground  that  it  would  be  inconsistent 
with  the  maintenance  of  connection  with  Great 
Britain,  inasmuch  as  Canada  would  be  called  upon 
to  tax  goods  of  British  manufacture,  while  she 
admitted  those  of  the  United  States  free. 

"  Great  Britain  is,"  he  observes,  "  the  market  for 
Canadian  produce  to  a  far  greater  extent  than  the 
United  States."  The  United  States  would  neces- 
sarily impose  her  views  on  the  Zollverein,  and  "  the 
result  would  be,"  says  Mr.  Gait,  "  a  tariff,  not  as 
now,  based  on  the  simple  wants  of  Canada,  but  upon 
those  of  a  country  engaged  in  a  colossal  war."  It 
must  be  regretted,  notwithstanding  Mr.  Gait's  argu- 
ments, that  the  Canadian  tariff  is  so  high  ;  but  if 
she  be  called  upon  to  incur  a  fresh  debt  for  the  pur- 
poses of  defence,  it  is  more  likely  that  it  will  be 
increased  rather  than  diminished.  In  connection 
with  the  relations  of  Canada  and  the  West  to  the 
United  States,  the  opening  of  new  water-ways  and 
roads  becomes  of  paramount  interest  and  import- 
ance. 

In  March,  1863,  a  Select  Committee  was  ap- 
pointed by  the  Legislative  Assembly  to  investigate 
the  subject  of  a  navigable  line  between  Montreal 
and  Lake  Huron,  by  the  Ottawa  and  Matawan 
Rivers,  Lake  Nipissing,  and  French  River.  That 
Committee  reported  that  there  were  no  engineering 
difficulties  to  interfere  with  the  opening  of  the  route 
for  vessels  of.  every  class  up  to  the  draught  of  twelve 
feet,  and  that  it  would  shorten  the  line  to  Chicago 
350  miles,  the  exact  difference  in  favor  of  the  Ottawa 
communication  from  Montreal  to  Mackinaw  being 


m 


WT] 


I 


240 


CANADA. 


68  miles.  In  point  of  time  there  would  be  a  reduc- 
tion of  47  hours.  The  trade  between  the  Western 
States  and  the  sea  has  increased  to  such  an  extent 
durin«<  the  last  four  years,  that  l'i(),00(),0()Oof  bushels 
of  wheat  and  ^rain  stood  in  need  of  transport,  ae- 
eordin«^  to  the  last  calculation;  and  even  with  its 
present  communications,  Montreal  is  second  only  to 
New  York  as  a  grain -exporting  port,  the  quantity 
shipped  last  year  from  it  being  over  15,000,000  of 
bushels.  The  Ottawa  route  would  actually  be  the 
shortest  line  of  communication  between  the  ports  on 
Lake  Michigan  and  New  York  itself  by  150  miles, 
when  the  Champlain  Canal  shall  have  been  made, 
and  the  Northern  Canal  eidarged. 

The  tract  through  which  the  proposed  line  w^ould 
pass,  exceeding  in  area  the  whole  of  the  five  New 
England  States,  is  covered  with  a  wealth  of  timber 
surpassing  belief;  and  the  forestless  prairies  would 
furnish  a  market  valuable  as  gold  itself  to  the  lum- 
berer. Vessels  going  down  and  discharging  their 
cargoes  would  return  with  cargoes  of  timber,  the 
demand  for  which  in  the  West  is  so  great  that  the 
city  of  Chicago  consumes  alone  100,000/.  worth 
in  the  year.  Canadian  pines  would  be  in  demand 
to  construct  the  new  cities  which  are  rising  in  the 
Prairie  State,  and  to  keep  the  hearth-fires  alight 
through  their  rigid  winters.  The  effect  of  such  a 
line  in  developing  local  traffic,  agricultural  improve- 
ment, commercial  enterprise,  and  the  spread  of  civil- 
ization, cannot  be  over  estimated.  In  reference  to 
the  military  advantages  to  be  derived  from  its  con- 
struction, the  Committee  makes  but  a  meagre  refer- 
ence; but  it  is  obvious  that  by  securing  such  a  route, 
far  removed  from  a  foreign  frontier,  between  the  sea 
and  the  western  lakes,  the  means  of  defence  and  of 
transport  in  war  would  be  very  much  strengthened 
and  improved. 

The  St.  Lawrence  canals  can  be  destroyed,  as 
Mr.  Chamley  observes,  by  the  Americans,   without 


J,- 


THE  SASKATCEIF.WAN. 


241 


fires    alight 


their  being  obliged  to  land  a  man  in  Canada;  whilst 
by  the  Ottawa  route  gunboats  could  proceed  from 
the  St.  liawrcnce  to  Lake  Huron  in  less  time  than 
they  would  now  require  to  get  to  Lake  Erie.  It  is 
not  to  be  overlooked,  however,  that  the  higher  lati- 
tudes through  which  the  canal  would  run,  expose  the 
waters  to  a  longer  frost  and  necessary  cessation  of 
trafKc.  The  advantage  s  of  the  route  to  New  York 
and  to  other  Northeastern  States  of  America,  can 
only  be  gained  by  completing  the  proposed  Cookna- 
woogo  Canal,  between  the  St.  Lawrence  and  Lake 
Champlain,  and  it  is  doubtful  whether  the  jealousy 
of  the  Americans  would  not  prevent  their  furthering 
a  project  which  would  confer  great  benefits  on  the 
Provinces,  even  though  their  refusing  to  do  so  might 
deprive  them  of  certain  advantages.  This  line  would, 
in  fact,  give  us  or  the  Canadians  an  admirable  inte- 
rior communication,  and  at  the  same  time  confer 
military,  political,  and  commercial  benefits  on  the 
Provinces,  the  extent  of  which  cannot  be  easily  fore- 
seen. 

Mr.  Gait  admits  that  there  may  be  jealousies, 
though  he  protests  there  should  not  be,  and  calls  to 
mind  the  opposition  of  Mohawk  Dutchmen,  the 
Frenchmen  of  Detroit,  and  others,  to  the  Erie  Canal. 
If  the  plans  for  improving  the  communications  which 
have  been  suggested  should  ever  be  developed,  the 
valley  of  Red  River  would  be  reached  without  much 
difficulty,  and  land  as  good  as  that  in  the  unsettled 
portions  of  Iowa  and  Minnesota  would  be  opened  to 
the  British  emigrant. 

In  the  valleys  of  the  Saskatchewan  and  Assini- 
boine,  Canada  possesses  a  vast  northwest  of  her 
own,  enjoying  a  mild  climate,  which  contains,  ac- 
cording to  one  of  the  witnesses  whose  opinion  is 
cited  by  the  Committee,  500,000  square  miles  of  fer- 
tile land,  capable  of  sustaining  a  population  of  nearly 
30,000,000  of  people. 

It   has   been  ascertained  beyond  doubt,  that  the 


242 


CANADA. 


tract  between  the  North  and  South  Saskatchewan 
on  the  east  is  exceedingly  fertile,  and  that  no  intense 
cold  prevails  throughout  an  enormous  region  of  rich 
prairies  on  cretaceous  and  tertiary  deposits.  It  is 
scarcely  possible  for  us  to  conceive  what  an  enor- 
mous expanse  of  fertile  land  lies  to  the  east  of  the 
Rocky  Mountains,  about  the  sources  of  those  rivers  ; 
but  there  are  too  many  witnesses  of  unmistakable 
veracity  to  render  us  sceptical  concerning  the  beauty 
and  capabilities  of  these  regions.  Could  the  poor 
emigrant  be  carried  to  these  fiertile  districts,  instead 
of  sinking  into  the  rowdyism  of  American  cities,  or 
beating  down  the  rate  of  wages  by  competition,  he 
would  find  at  least  a  comfortable  subsistence,  even 
if  he  were  unable  at  once  to  obtain  a  profitable 
market  for  his  labors. 

Father  de  Smet,  the  missionary,  a  man  whose 
name  is  a  tower  of  strength  and  faith,  describes  a 
district  which  makes  us  wonder  that  poverty  should 
ever  be  known  in  Europe,  and  corroborates  the  glow- 
ing picture  of  Sir  George  Simpson,  —  a  soil  and 
climate  better  suited  for  agriculture  than  that  of  To- 
ronto—  a  region  abounding  in  game  of  all  kinds, 
rivers  and  lakes  swarming  with  fish,  plains  covered 
with  buffaloes  —  seams  of  coal  —  delicious  wild 
fruits  —  forests  of  pine,  cypress,  poplar,  and  aspen. 
Even  at  Edmonton,  potatoes,  wheat  and  barley, 
corn  and  beans,  are  produced  in  abundance.  "Are 
these  vast  and  innumerable  fields  of  hay,"  asks 
Father  de  Smet,  "  forever  destined  to  be  consumed 
by  fire,  or  perish  in  wintry  snows  ?  How  long  shall 
tliese  superb  forests  be  the  haunts  of  wild  beasts? 
Are  these  abundant  mines  of  coal,  lead,  sulphur, 
iron,  copper,  and  saltpetre  doomed  to  remain  forever 
valueless?  No  ;  the  day  must  come  when  the  hand 
of  labor  shall  give  them  value,  and  stirring  and  en- 
terprising people  are  destined  ere  long  to  fill  this 
void ;  the  wild  beasts  will  give  place  to  domestic 
animals ;  flocks  and  herds  will  graze  on  the  beauti- 


FERTILITY  OF   THE  COUNTRY. 


243 


ikatchewan 
i  no  intense 
ion  of  rich 
)sits.  It  is 
it  an  enor- 
east  of  the 
lose  rivers ; 
imistakable 
the  beauty 
d  the  poor 
cts,  instead 
in  cities,  or 
petition,  he 
itence,  even 
a  profitable 

man  whose 
describes  a 
rerty  should 
js  the  glow- 
-a  soil  and 
that  of  To- 
■  all  kinds, 
ins  covered 
icious   wild 

and  aspen, 
ind  barley, 
ince.     "Are 

hay,"    asks 

consumed 

V  long  shall 

ild  beasts? 
id,  sulphur, 
lain  forever 

n  the  hand 

ng  and  en- 
to  fill  this 

io  domestic 

the  beauti- 


ful meadows,  and  the  mountain-sides  and  valleys 
will  swarm  with  life." 

Before  this  picture,  however,  be  realized,  some 
communication  must  be  opened  oast  or  west  between 
the  community  and  the  outer  world ;  and  if  the  Brit- 
ish Government  docs  not  take  some  steps  to  secure  a 
settlement  of  these  regions  by  its  own  subjects,  the 
irresistible  agency  of  American  emigration  will  erase 
mere  lines  upon  the  map,  and  determine  the  question 
of  nationality  beyond  the  power  of  appeal  or  altera- 
tion. It  is  agreeable  to  admit  that  the  inhabitants 
of  the  State  of  Minnesota  have  not  hitherto  evinced 
any  design  of  raising  difficulties  as  to  jurisdiction,  or 
of  disturbing  the  relations  between  the  two  Govern- 
ments. In  fact,  the  St.  Paul  Chamber  of  Commerce, 
in  1862,  presented  a  strong  memorial  against  the 
proposal  to  suspend  or  abrogate  the  provisions  of  the 
Reciprocity  Treaty.     This  memorial  says  :  — 

"  Central  British  America,  including  an  inhabita- 
ble area  of  300,000  square  miles,  and  extending 
northwest  of  Minnesota  to  the  Rocky  Mountains, 
will  probably  be  organized  as  a  crown  colony  of 
England,  with  the  seat  of  government  at  Selkirk. 
There  is  good  reason  to  believe  that  a  bill  for  this 
purpose  will  become  an  Act  of  Parliament  at  the 
session  now  impending.  British  Columbia,  on  the 
Pacific  coast,  having  received  a  similar  organization 
in  1858,  the  establishment  of  the  province  of  Central 
British  America  v%rill  go  far  to  realize  the  hope  so 
gracefully  expressed  three  years  since  from  the  throne 
of  England:  —  'That  her  Majesty's  dominions  in 
North  America  may  ultimately  be  peopled  in  an  un- 
broken chain  from  the  Atlantic  to  the  Pacific,  by  a 
loyal  and  industrious  population  of  subjects  of  the 
British  crown.' 

"  Minnesota,  with  the  cooperation  of  the  Govern- 
ment at  Washington,  has  relied  with  confidence 
upon  the  probability  of  such  a  colonization  of  the 
fertile  valleys  which  stretch  beyond  the  international 


244 


CANADA. 


boundary,  from  the  lakes  of  Superior  and  Winnepeg, 
or  the  western  limits  of  Canada,  to  the  Pacific  col- 
ony of  British  Columbia.  Our  mails,  our  trains  of 
regular  transportation,  and  our  steam-vessels  on  the 
Red  River  of  the  North,  are  already  provided  as  im- 
portant links  of  international  communication  from 
Toronto  to  St.  Paul,  and  thence  to  Fort  Garry.  The 
projected  railroads  of  Minnesota,  with  extensive  grants 
of  land  from  Congress  in  behalf  of  their  construc- 
tion, harmonize  in  a  northwestern  trend  to  the  val- 
leys of  the  Red  River  of  the  North,  and  the  still  more 
remote  Saskatchewan.  Our  whole  commercial  fu- 
ture has  been  projected  in  concert  with  the  victo- 
ries of  peace,  even  more  renowned  than  war,  of 
which  we  still  hope  to  witness  the  achievement  in 
northwest  America,  irrespective  of  the  imaginary 
line  of  an  international  frontier. 

"Animated  by  these  expectations,  which  the  march 
of  events  has  hitherto  justified,  we  invoke  the  'sober 
second  thought '  of  the  country  upon  the  subject  of 
our  continental  policy.  With  the  suppression  of  the 
Southern  rebellion;  with  dispassionate  discussions 
by  all  the  parties  interested ;  with  the  happy  accord 
of  minds  Hke  Cobden  in  England  and  Chase  in 
America  upon  the  best  methods  of  revenue ;  and 
lastly,  with  the  lessons  and  suggestions  of  the  next 
three  years,  a  treaty,  eminently  deserving  the  desig- 
nation of  a  reciprocity  treaty,  will  probably  be  sub- 
mitted to  the  Congress  of  1864." 

"When  the  Committee  of  Commerce,  to  which  the 
Legislature  of  New  York  referred  its  petition  against 
the  Reciprocity  Treaty,  made  their  report,  they  gave 
expression  to  very  different  sentiments  ;  and  enlarged 
on  the  magnitude  of  the  present  possessions  of  the 
British  Crown  on  the  American  continent,  and  the 
probable  grandeur  of  their  future,  in  a  manner  which 
indicated  certainly  the  existence  of  a  feeling  not  far 
removed  from  jealousy.  With  great  truth  they  say, 
that  the  value  of  the  British  North  American  posses- 


AREA  OF  THE  BRITISH  POSSESSIONS. 


245 


sions  is  seldom  appreciated :  stretching  from  the 
Atlantic  to  the  Pacific,  they  contain  an  area  of  at 
least  3,478,380  miles.  The  isothermal  line  of  60 
degrees  for  summer  rises  on  the  interior  plains  of 
this  continent  as  high  as  the  61st  parallel,  —  its  aver- 
age position  in  Europe.  And  a  favorable  comparison 
may  also  be  traced  for  winter  and  other  seasons  in 
the  year.  Then,  elevated  by  the  subject,  and  warm- 
ing  by  degrees,  the  Committee  draw  a  glowing  pic- 
ture of  this  enormous  empire.  "  Spring  opens  simul- 
taneously," they  say,  "  on  the  plains,  which  stretch 
for  1200  miles,  from  St.  Paul's  to  the  Mackenzie 
River.  Westward  are  countries  of  still  milder  cli- 
mate, now  scarcely  inhabited,  but  of  incalculable 
value  in  the  future.  Eastward  are  the  small  settle- 
ments, yet  distant  from  the  other  abodes  of  civiliza- 
tion, enjoying  the  rich  lands  and  pleasant  climate  of 
the  Red  River."  It  may  well  surprise  the  inhabitants 
of  these  isles,  who  have  no'  ^ot  100  miles  of  natural 
navigable  rivers  in  the  three  kingdom?,  to  learn  that 
this  same  Red  Piver  is  capable  of  steamboat  navi- 
gation for  400  miles. 

The  following  extract  from  this  Report  gives  per- 
haps the  best  idea  of  the  British  Possessions  in  a  few 
words  which  can  be  presented  to  the  reader :  — 

"  It  is  asserted  by  those  who  add  personal  knowl- 
edge of  the  subject  to  scientific  investigation,  that 
the  habitable  but  undeveloped  area  of  the  British 
Possessions  westerly  from  Lake  Superior  and  Hud- 
son's Bay,  comprises  sufficient  territory  to  make 
twenty-five  States  equal  in  size  to  Illinois.  Bold  as 
this  assertion  is,  it  meets  with  confirmation  in  the 
isothermal  charts  of  Blodgett,  the  testimony  of  Rich- 
ardson, Simpson,  Mackenzie,  the  maps  published  by 
the  Government  of  Canada,  and  the  recen:  explora- 
tions of  Professor  Hind,  of  Toronto. 

"  North  of  a  line  drawn  from  the  northern  limit  of 
Lake  Superior  to  the  coast  at  the  southern  limit  of 
Labrador  exists  a  vast  region,  possessing  in  its  best 


246 


CA  ^ADA. 


parts  a  climate  barely  endurable,  and  reaching  into 
the  /^ctic  regions.  This  country,  even  more  cold, 
desolate,  and  barren  on  the  Atlantic  coast  than  in 
the  interior  latitudes,  becoming  first  known  to  trav- 
ellers, has  given  character  in  public  estimation  to  the 
whole  north. 

"  Another  line,  drawn  from  the  northern  limit  of 
Minnesota  to  that  of  Maine,  includes  nearly  all  the 
inhabited  portion  df  Canada,  a  province  extending 
opposite  the  Territory  of  Dakota  and  States  of  Min- 
nesota, Wisconsin,  Michigan,  Ohio,  Pennsylvania, 
New  York,  Vermont,  New  Hampshire,  and  Maine, 
possessing  a  climate  identical  with  that  of  our  North- 
ern States. 

"  The  '  Maritime  Provinces '  on  the  Atlantic  coast 
include  New  Brunswick,  Nova  Scotia,  Prince  Ed- 
ward's Island,  and  Newfoundland.  Geographically 
they  may  be  regarded  as  a  northeasterly  prolonga- 
tion of  the  New  England  system.  Unitedly  they 
include  an  area  of  at  least  86,000  square  miles,  and 
are  capable  of  supporting  a  larger  population  than 
that  at  present  existing  in  the  United  States  or  Great 
Britain.  They  are  equal  in  extent  to  the  united 
territory  of  Holland,  Greece,  Belgium,  Portugal,  and 
Switzerland. 

"  New  Brunswick  is  190  miles  in  length  and  150 
in  breadth.  Its  interests  are  inseparably  connected 
with  those  of  the  adjacent  State  of  Maine.  It  has 
an  area  of  22,000,000  acres,  and  a  sea-coast  400  miles 
in  extent,  and  abounding  in  harbors.  Its  population 
some  years  ago  numbered  210,000,  whose  chief  occu- 
pations are  connected  with  ship-building,  the  fisheries, 
and  the  timber  trade.  Commissioners  appointed  by 
the  Government  of  Great  Britain  affirm  that  it  is  im- 
possible to  speak  too  highly  of  its  climate,  soil,  and 
capabilities.  Few  countries  are  so  well  wooded  and 
watered.  On  its  unreclaimed  surface  is  an  abundant 
stock  of  the  finest  timber ;  beneath  are  coal-fields. 
The  rivers,  lakes,  and  sea-coast  abound  with  fish.    * 


THE  MARITIME  PROVINCES. 


247 


"  Nova  Scotia,  a  long  peninsula,  united  to  the 
American  continent  by  an  isthmus  only  fifteen  miles 
wide,  is  280  miles  in  length.  The  numerous  inden- 
tations on  its  coast  form  harbors  unsurpassed  in  any 
part  of  the  world.  Including  Cape  Breton,  it  has  an 
area  of  12,000,000  acres.  Wheat,  and  the  usual  ce- 
reals and  fruits  of  the  Northern  States,  flourish  in 
many  parts  of  it.  Its  population  in  1851  was  de- 
clared by  the  census  to  be  276,117.  Besidei?  possess- 
ing productive  fisheries  and  agricultural  resources,  it 
is  rich  in  mineral  wealth,  having  beneath  its  surface 
coal,  iron,  manganese,  gypsum,  and  gold. 

**  The  province  of  Prince  Edward's  Island  is  sepa- 
rated from  New  Brunswick  and  Nova  Scotia  by 
straits  only  nine  miles  in  v/idth.  It  is  crescent- 
shaped,  130  miles  in  lengthj  and  at  its  broadest  part 
is  34  miles  wide.  It  is  a  level  region,  of  a  more  mod- 
erate temperature  than  that  of  Lower  Canada,  and 
well  adapted  to  agricultural  purposes.  Its  population 
in  1848  was  62,678. 

"  The  island  of  Newfoundland  has  a  sea-coast  1000 
miles  in  extent.  It  has  an  area  of  23,040,000  acres, 
of  which  only  a  small  portion  is  cultivated.  Its  spring 
is  late,  its  summer  short,  but  the  frost  of  winter  is 
less  severe  than  in  many  parts  of  our  own  Northern 
States  and  Territories.  It  is  only  1665  miles  distant 
from  Ireland.  It  possesses  a  large  trade  with  various 
countries,  including  Spain,  Portugal,  Italy,  the  West 
Indies,  and  the  Brazils. 

"  The  chief  wealth  of  Newfoundland  and  of  the 
Labrador  coast  is  to  be  found  in  their  extensive  and 
inexhaustible  fisheries,  in  which  the  other  Provinces 
also  partake.  The  future  products  of  these,  when 
properly  developed  by  human  ingenuity  and  industry, 
defv  human  calculation.  The  Gulf  Stream  is  met 
near  the  shores  of  Newfoundland  by  a  current  from 
the  Polar  basin,  vast  deposits  are  formed  by  the  meet- 
ing of  the  opposing  waters,  the  great  submarine 
islands,  known  as   "  The  Banks,"  are  formed ;  and 


'-   !i 


T;  r 


;  ^ 


jiii; 


fjif  i. 


I' 


Hi  * 


2        f 


248 


CANADA, 


the  rich  pastures  created  in  Ireland  by  the  warm  and 
humid  influences  of  the  Gulf  Stream  are  compensated 
by  the  *rich  sea-pastures  of  Newfoundland.'  The 
fishes  of  warm  or  tropical  waters,  inferior  in  quality 
and  scarcely  capable  of  preservation,  cannot  form  an 
article  of  commerce  like  those  produced  in  inexhaust- 
ible quantities  in  these  cold  and  shadow  seas.  The 
abundance  of  these  marine  resources  is  unequalled  in 
any  portion  of  the  globe. 

"  Canada,  rather  a  nation  than  a  province  in  any 
common  acceptation  of  the  term,  includes  not  less 
than  346,863  square  miles  of  territory,  independently 
of  its  Northwestern  Possessions,  not  yet  open  for  set- 
tlement. It  is  three  times  as  large  as  Great  Britain 
and  Ireland,  and  more  than  three  times  as  large  as 
Prussia.  It  intervenes  between  the  Great  Northwest 
and  the  Maritime  Provinces,  and  consists  chiefly  of 
a  vast  territorial  projection  into  the  territory  of  the 
United  States,  although  it  possesses  a  coast  of  nearly 
1000  miles  on  the  river  and  gulf  of  the  St.  Lawrence, 
where  fisheries  of  cod,  herring,  mackerel,  and  salmon 
are  carried  on  successfully.  Valuable  fisheries  exist 
also  in  its  lakes.  It  is  rich  in  metallic  ore  and  in  the 
resources  of  its  forests.  Large  portions  of  its  terri- 
tory are  peculiarly  favorable  to  the  growth  of  wheat, 
barley,  ?»^d  the  other  cereals  of  the  north.  During 
the  life  of  the  present  generation,  or  the  last  quarter 
of  a  century,  its  population  has  increased  more  than 
fourfold,  or  from  582,000  to  2,500,000. 

"  The  population  of  all  the  provinces  may  be  fairly 
estimated  as  numbering  3,500,000.  Many  of  the  in- 
habitants are  of  French  extraction,  and  a  few  German 
settlements  exist ;  but  two  thirds  of  the  people  of  the 
provinces  owe  their  origin  either  to  the  United  States 
or  to  the  British  Islands,  whose  language  we  speak, 
and  who  *  people  the  world  with  men  industrious  and 
free.' 

"  The  climate  and  soil  of  these  Provinces  and  Pos- 
sessions, seemingly  less  indulgent  than  those  of  trop- 


CLIMATE  AND  SOIL. 


249 


ical  regions,  are  precisely  those  by  which  the  skill, 
energy,  and  virtues  of  the  human  race  are  best  devel- 
oped. Nature  there  demands  thought  and  labor 
from  man  as  conditions  of  his  existence,  but  yields 
abundant  rewards  to  wise  industry.  Those  causes 
which,  in  our  age  of  the  world,  determine  the  wealth 
of  nations  are  those  which  render  man  most  active ; 
and  it  cannot  be  too  often  or  too  closely  remembered 
in  discussing  subjects  so  vast  as  these,  where  the 
human  mind  may  be  misled  if  it  attempts  to  compre- 
hend them  in  their  boundless  variety  of  detail,  that 
sure  and  safe  guides  in  the  application  of  political 
economy,  and  to  our  own  prosperity,  are  to  be  found 
in  the  simple  principles  of  morality  and  justice,  be- 
cause they  alone  are  true  alike  in  minute  and  great 
affairs,  at  all  times  and  in  every  place." 


p:mc'^ 


250 


CANADA. 


CHAPTER  XVL 


m 


K 


II 


1"  'I 


The  "Ashburton  Capitulation."  —  Boundftriea  of  Quebec.  —  Arbitration  in 
1831.  —  Lord  Ashburton's  Mission.  —  The  Questions  in  Dispute.  —  "  The 
Sen"  r.  "  The  Atlasitic."  —  American  Diplomatists.  —  Fraiil^lin's  Red 
I-iiie.  —  Compromise.  —  The  Maps.  —  Maine.  —  Damage  to  Canada.  — 
Mr.  Webster's  Defence.  —  His  Opinion  of  the  Koad.  —  Value  of  the 
Heights. — Our  Share  of  Equivalents. — Value  of  Rouse's  Point  — 
Vermont.  —  New  Hampshire. 

It  was  by  tV  ;el*'brated  Treaty  of  Washington, 
August  9th,  18h  thi  the  boundary-line  between 
the  British  possessions  '.■:  Canada  and  the  State  of 
Maine  in  the  territories  of  the  United  States,  was  set- 
tled and  determined.  That  treaty  has  been  some- 
times spoken  of  as  the  "Ashburton  Capitulation." 
The  story  of  the  two  maps  which  played  so  distin- 
guished a  part  in  the  negotiations,  is  tolerably  well 
known,  and  has  formed  a  subject  of  many  discussions 
which  have  now  settled  down  into  fixed  convictions. 
By  many,  if  not  by  most  Americans,  acquainted  with 
the  subject,  it  is  believed  that  Mr.  Webster  did  a 
very  smart  thing.  Englishmen,  similarly  instructed, 
believe  their  country  to  have  been  cheated  by  the 
great  American  elocutionist.  Canadians  are  of  opin- 
ion that  they  have  suffered  an  irreparable  injury  at 
the  hands  of,  or  through  the  weakness  of,  those  ap- 
pointed to  guard  their  interests  by  the  Imperial  Gov- 
ernment. The  Treaty  of  Paris,  in  1783,  did  not 
define  the  northeastern  boundary  of  the  United 
States;  it  merely  declared  that  the  boundary  was 
drawn  along  the  highlands  which  divide  the  rivers 
that  empty  themselves  into  the  river  St.  Lawrence 
from  those  which  fall  into  the  Atlantic  Ocean.  If 
we  had  had  at  that  time  the  knowledge  of  geography 
and  geology,  with  respect  to  the  basin  of  the  St. 
Lawrence,  which,  thanks  to  the  labors  of  the  United 


BOUNDARIES  OF  QUEBEC. 


251 


States'  engineers  and  of  Sir  William  Logan,  we  now 
possess,  there  would  not  have  been  much  difficulty 
in  fixing  on  the  real  line,  as  theie  could  not  well  be 
any  dispute  respecting  the  exact  line  of  highlands 
from  which  the  rivers  flowing  into  the  St.  Lawrence 
came,  and  from  the  other  side  of  which  the  water- 
shed was  towards  the  Atlantic  Ocean.  Tons  of 
pamphlets,  years  of  controversy,  and  thousands  of 
pounds  might  have  been  spared,  not  to  speak  of  much 
national  animosity. 

It  may  be  remarked  here,  that  the  difficulty  of  rec- 
onciling States'  Rights  with  Imperial  Federal  policy 
was  foreshadowed  in  the  original  disputes  which 
took  place  at  the  time  of  the  treaty  adjustment.  The 
Treaty  speaks  of  the  "boundaries  between  the  pos- 
sessions of  Her  Britannic  Majesty  in  North  Ame  ca 
and  the  territories  of  the  United  States ; "  but  the 
State  of  Maine  in  its  vehement  protest  against  the 
line  of  the^King  of  the  Netherlands,  assumed  the  lan- 
guage and  the  port  of  an  independent  Power,  Mr. 
Thomas  Colley  Grattan,  in  his  work,  "  Cr  Uized 
America,"  has  collected  an  immense  amount  of  in- 
formation, and  has  drawn  up  an  argument  on  the 
subject,  which  prove  beyond  a  doubt,  even  without 
collateral  aid,  that  the  line  yielded  by  Lord  Ashbur- 
ton  was  not  that  which  was  meant  by  the  framers  of 
the  Treaty  of  1783.  Let  us  consider  how  the  case 
stood. 

In  1763  the  French  possessions  in  North  America 
were  ceded  to  Great  Britain,  and  in  the  October  of 
that  year  a  royal  proclamation  defined  the  bounda- 
ries of  the  government  of  Quebec,  "  bounded  on  the 
Labrador  coast  by  the  river  St.  John,  which  falls  into 
the  mouth  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  and  from  there  by  a 
line  drawn  from  the  head  of  that  river  through  the 
Lake  of  St.  John  to  the  south  end  of  the  Lake  Nip- 
issing,  from  whence  the  said  line,  crossing  the  river 
St.  Lawrence  and  Lake  Champlain  in  45  degrees 
of  north  latitude,  passes  along  the  highlands  which 


■| 


mmiu 


'■A 


m 


ft' ' 


;r 


252 


CANADA. 


divide  the  rivers  that  empty  themselves  into  the  said 
river  St.  Lawrence  from  those  which  fall  into  the 
sea,  and  also  along  the  north  coast  of  the  Bay  of 
Chaleurs  and  the  coast  of  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence 
to  Cape  Rosiere,  and  from  thence  crossing  the  mouth 
of  the  river  St.  Lawrence  by  the  west  end  pf  the 
island  of  Anticosti,  terminates  in  the  aforesaid  Lake 
of  St.  John."  It  is  fortunate  enough  that  we  have 
no  neighbors  to  raise  any  question  about  "  the  line 
drawn  through  the  Lake  of  St.  John  to  the  south 
end  of  the  L-^ke  Ni  pissing." 

Previous  to  the  Treaty  of  Independence  only  one 
Act  was  passed  bearing  upon  the  southern  boundary 
of  Canada.  The  Quebec  Act  of  1774  draws  its 
boundaries  between  the  province  of  Quebec  and  the 
colonies  of  Nova  Scotia  and  Massachusetts,  in 
words  nearly  the  same  as  those  of  the  Proclamation 
of  1763.  When  the  State  of  Massachusetts  and 
the  Sate  of  Maine  were  acknowledged  to  be  "  free, 
sovereign,  and  independent,"  by  the  Treaty  of  1783, 
the  contracting  parties  appeared  to  have  defined 
the  boundary -line  with  tolerable  exactitude.  They 
wished  to  prevent  disputes  between  the  United 
States  and  the  colonies,  and  therefore  the  bounda- 
ries were  constituted  "  from  the  northwest  angle  of 
Nova  Scotia,  —  viz.  that  angle  which  is  formed  by 
a  line  drawn  due  north  from  the  source  of  the  St. 
Croix  River  to  the  highlands,  along  the  said  high- 
lands which  divide  those  rivers  that  empty  them- 
selves into  the  St.  Lawrence  from  those  which  fall 
into  the  Atlantic  Ocean,  —  to  the  north-western  most 
head  of  Connecticut  River  east,  by  a  line  to  be  drawn 
along  the  middle  of  the  river  St.  Croix  from  its 
mouth  in  the  Bay  of  Fundy  to  its  source,  and  from 
its  source  directly  north  to  the  aforesaid  highlands 
which  divide  the  rivers  which  fall  into  the  Atlantic 
Ocean  from  those  which  fall  into  the  river  St.  Law- 
rence, comprehending  all  highlands  within  twenty 
leagues  of  any  harbor   of  the    United   States,  and 


THE  DISPUTED  BOUNDARY. 


253 


lying  between  lines  to  be  drawn  due  east  from  the 
points  wliere  the  aforesaid  bonndaries  betw(?en  Nova 
Scotia  on  the  one  |)art,  and  East  F'lorida  on  the 
other,  shall  respectively  touch  tlio  Bay  of  Fundy  and 
the  Atlantic  Ocean,  exce[)t  such  iiighlands  as  now 
arc,  or  heretofore  have  been,  within  the  limits  of  the 
said  province  of  Nova  Scotia." 

The  northwest  angle  of  Nova  Scotia  thus  be- 
comes a  point  of  consequence —  upon  the  determi- 
nation of  it  rests  the  true  line.  The  British  maintain 
that  the  angle  is  contained  at  the  point  "  where  the 
line  due  north  from  the  river  St.  Croix  touches  the 
highlands  at  a  point  about  100  miles  south  of  the 
point  claimed  by  the  United  States."  The  Ameri- 
cans argue  that  the  northwest  angle  was  "  con- 
siderably nearer  to  the  St.  Lawrence,  at  a  spot 
145  miles  north  of  the  source  of  the  St.  Croix."  In 
1794  Commissioners  were  appointed  to  determine 
"  where  a  line  drawn  due  north  from  the  St.  Croix 
would  intersect  a  line  of  highlands  corresponding 
with  those  mentioned  in  the  Treaty  of  1783."  The 
umpire  called  in  by  the  Commissioners  fixed  on  the 
most  northern  point  of  the  river  as  the  place  from 
which  the  line  to  the  highlands  was  to  be  drawn,  and 
the  result  was  that  the  line  so  drawn  did  not  strike 
the  highlands  which  we  held  to  be  those  meant  by 
the  treaty,  but  passing  them  at  a  distance  of  twenty 
miles  on  the  west,  came  to  an  isolated  mountain 
called  Mars  Hill,  from  which  the  Americans  desired 
to  prolong  it  northwards  beyond  the  river  St.  John 
to  the  highlands  above  the  source  of  the  Reste- 
gouche  ;  but  the  British  Commissioners  insisted  that 
the  line  should  not  proceed  further  north,  and  that 
the  highlands  which  ran  west  from  near  that  point  to 
the  head  of  the  Connecticut  River  should  form  the 
next  boundary-line. 

Events  of  greater  importance  for  a  time  prevented 
any  attempt  to  adjust  a  question  which  promised, 
however,  no  slight  difficulty  in  time  to  come.     Then 

12 


i  i, . 


r 


/ 


m  f 


254 


CANADA. 


war  broke  out  between  the  United  States  and  Great 
Britain  ;  but  the  Peace  of  1814  rendered  it  neces- 
sary to  renew  the  attempt  to  define  the  boundaries 
of  the  two  States.  The  Comnnissioncrs  appointed 
by  the  Treaty  of  (jJhent  were  not  more  fortunate 
than  their  predecessors  ;  and  it  was  thirteen  years 
after  the  signing  of  that  treaty  before  the  (n)vern- 
ments  of  the  two  countries  arranged  a  convention, 
to  carry  out  the  provision  made  by  an  article  in  the 
Treaty  for  the  appointment  of  a  referee  in  case  of 
disagreement.  The  King  of  the  Netherlands,  who 
accepted  the  office  of  arbiter  in  1831,  delivered  his 
award,  which,  taking  the  line  drawn  north  from  the 
St.  Croix  to  Mars  Hill,  passed  beyond  it  to  the  river 
St.  John,  whence  it  took  the  course  of  the  river  west- 
ward, inside  the  line  claimed  by  the  United  States 
to  the  head  of  the  Connecticut  River.  This  com- 
promise was  identical  with  the  actual  line  estab- 
lished by  the  Treaty  of  1842,  except  on  the  western 
side,  where  the  line  fixed  by  the  King  and  that 
claimed  by  the  United  States  are  the  same.  The 
King's  line  approximates  much  more  closely  to  the 
United  States'  line  than  it  does  to  that  which  we 
claim  ;  however,  the  Americans  refused  to  accept  it, 
on  the  grounds  that  the  King  had  no  right  to  go  be- 
yond the  matter  referred  to  him  of  determining 
which  of  the  two  lines  was  right,  and  that  he  had 
exceeded  his  province  in  proposing  a  line  which  had 
not  been  referred  to  him  by  either  of  the  parties. 

Eleven  years  passed  in  unavailing  endeavors  to 
adjust  a  question  which  rose  into  the  highest  rank 
of  diplomatic  difficulties.  Lord  Ashburton,  the  head 
of  the  commercial  house  of  Baring,  whose  relations 
with  American  commerce  were  supposed  to  be  likely 
to  recommend  him  to  American  statesmen,  was  dis- 
patched in  1842  to  determine  the  boundary,  in  con- 
cert with  Mr.  Webster.  These  gentlemen  were  as- 
sisted by  seven  Commissioners  from  Maine  and  Mas- 
sachusetts.    The  author  of  a  pamphlet  of  very  great 


THE  tiUliSTlUN   IN  DISPUTE. 


2o5 


ability,  quoted  by  ^fr.  Grattan,  arrived  at  the  conclu- 
sion that  the  line  designated  in  the  Proclamation  of 
1763,  ia  identical  vvHIi  that  claimed  by  the  United 
States,  and  that  the  line  indicated  in  the  treaty  of 
1783  is  almost  the  same  as  tliat  claimed  by  Great 
Britain.  He  argued  that  it  was  clearly  intended  to 
create  a  new  boundary,  because  Mr.  Townsend  said 
so,  and  Lord  North  repeated  the  statement  in  Par- 
liament. He  maintained  that  the  variations  in  the 
wording  of  the  treaty  from  that  of  the  proclamation 
were  specially  introduced  to  show  that  a  new  boun- 
dary was  intended,  and  that  if  i*^^  had  not  been  ao, 
the  description  in  the  treaty  would  have  been  the 
same  as  it  was  in  the  proclamation ;  and  he  then 
proceeded  further  to  contend,  with  greater  force  of 
reasoning,  that  the  proclamation  boundary,  although 
it  might  have  adequately  defined  the  limits  of  a 
province,  would  have  been  obviously  unsuitable  as 
between  two  independent  nations,  because  it  would 
cut  off  communication  between  two  portions  of  the 
territory  of  one  of  the  Powers,  and  give  it  to  another 
independent  State.  He  further  asserted,  that  all 
negotiations  and  projects  for  peace  on  the  part  of 
the  United  States  were  based  on  the  supposition 
that  England  would  demand  a  new  line,  and  that 
Congress  never  contemplated  an  adherence  to  the 
Proclamation  of  1763.  All  the  reasoning  of  the 
pamphleteer  in  support  of  these  propositions  is  dis- 
tinguished by  acuteness,  and  inclines  the  mind  to 
accept  them  with  confidence;  and  he  is  not  less 
happy  in  his  argument  that  the  Madawaska  River 
is  distinct  from  the  river  St.  John  —  that  it  is  a 
tributary,  not  a  branch,  of  that  stream. 

The  quest."  on  as  to  the  range  of  highlands  meant 
by  the  treaties  can  only  be  settled  by  analytical  rea- 
soning, which,  in  relation  to  matters  of  fact  of  the 
kind  under  dispute,  is  satisfactory  only  to  those  who 
direct  their  own  course  of  argument.  There  are  two 
ranges  of  highlands  dividing  the  rivers  which  flow 


hi 


I 


256 


CANADA. 


.in: 

■i 


into  the  St.  Lawrence  and  those  which  empty  them- 
selves into  the  Atlantic;  the  first,  running  from  the 
sources  of  the  Connecticut  towards  the  Bay  of  Cha- 
leurs,  certainly  separates  rivers  emptying  into  the  St. 
Lawrence  from  those  emptying  into  the  sea ;  but 
the  second  line,  starting  from  the  same  mountainous 
germ  at  the  sources  of  the  Connect'cut,  branching 
off  from  the  firrit  range  at  a  point  about  eighty  miles 
from  its  conunencement,  takes  a  southern  course 
towards  the  head  of  the  St.  Croix,  and  divides  the 
rivers  which  empty  themselves  into  the  St.  Lawrence 
from  those  which  flow  into  the  Atlantic  Ocean.  It 
is  contended  on  one  side,  with  much  force  of  reason- 
ing and  probability,  that  the  highlands  specified  in 
the  Treaty  cl  1783  are  those  of  the  southern  range. 
It  was  necessary  of  course  to  fix  upon  some  great 
natural  features  in  a  district  vast  in  extent  and  un- 
known to  all  but  the  Red  men  and  the  hunter.  Rivers 
and  the  summit  level  betwcv^n  two  great  watersheds 
would  be  obviously  selected.  It  was  the  object  of 
England  to  secure  free  communication  between  all 
parts  of  her  America ti  territory,  and,  of  course,  be- 
tween Canada  and  Nova  Scotia.  The  Americans 
proposed  the  line  of  the  St.  John,  which  was  at  once 
rejected.  That  being  the  case,  it  is  difficult  to  con- 
tLive  how  they  could  go  back  and  propose,  as  a  line 
more  likely  to  meet  the  views  of  England,  the  high- 
lands of  the  northern  range  close  to  the  St.  Law- 
rence, which  would  throw  the  greatest  difficulties  in 
the  way  of  the  communication  which  it  was  a  vital 
point  for  England  to  secure.  It  will  have  I  sen  ob- 
served that  the  words  "  the  Sea  "  and  the  "Atlantic 
Ocean  "  are  used  in  the  treaties,  and  it  certainly  is 
not  easy  to  comprehend  how  the  Americans  can 
maintain  that  these  terms  have  an  identical  meaning, 
if  the  description  of  the  maps  which  they  had  before 
them  at  the  time  is  correct.  The  Connecticut,  the 
Penobscot,  and  the  Kennebec,  can  be  considered  as 
flowing  into  the  Atlantic  Ocean  from  one  range  of 


/"  '. 


THE  SE.V  VERSUS   THE  ATLANTIC. 


257 


ountainous 


highlands  only,  and  it  is  equally  plain  that  the  other, 
or  northern,  range  was  that  which  was  meant  as  the 
highlands  from  which  rivers  flowed  into  the  "  sea." 

It  has  been  urged,  ingeniously  and  truly,  that  the 
words  "  The  Sea  "  give  a  larger  range  of  boundary 
than  the  words  "  The  Atlantic  ; "  and  that  therefore 
the  boundary  which  depended  on  a  reference  to  the 
Atlantic,  was  intended  to  have  a  smaller  extent  than 
that  which  was  made  to  depend  upon  the  Sea.  The 
Atlantic  was  certainly  substituted  for  the  Sea,  not 
only  in  the  treaty,  but  in  the  Commissions  of  the 
Governors  of  Quebec,  showing  an  alteration  of  the 
boundary  of  their  jurisdiction,  whilst  no  change  was 
made  in  the  Commissions  of  the  Governors  of  New 
Brunswick,  because  the  boundary  of  their  province 
depended  upon  that  of  Quebec.  The  highlands 
separating  rivers  that  empty  into  the  Atlantic  Ocean 
are  by  no  means  identical  with  the  highlands  sep- 
arating the  rivers  that  empty  into  the  Sea.  The 
Americans  have  urged  that  the  northern  range  di- 
vides the  rivers  of  the  St.  Lawrence  from  the  Atlan- 
tic rivers,  but  it  certainly  does  not  separate  the  Pe- 
nobscot branches  north  and  east  which  flow  into  the 
Atlantic  from  the  southern  range ;  and  the  term 
"  The  rivers,"  of  course  means  all  the  rivers,  because, 
otherwise,  such  a  conisiderable  stream  as  the  Penol)- 
Hcot  would  have  been  excepted  specially.  The 
southern  range  separated  all  the  rivers  which  flow 
into  the  Atlantic,  from  all  the  rivers  which  flow  into 
the  St.  Lawrence. 

Had  the  Commissioners  drawn  the  due  north  line 
from  the  western  branch  of  the  St.  Croix,  which 
formed  the  ancient  boundary  of  Nova  Scotia,  instead 
of  from  the  northern  branch,  the  wiu>le  of  the  com- 
plicated and  vexatious  questions  might  have  been 
evaded,  and  the  claiin  urged  l)y  the  Ui:ited  States 
might  never  have  been  heard.  It  was  tiie  doctrine 
of  State  Rights  alone  which  justilied  the  rejection 
of  the  Netherlands  compromise.     The  tract  in  dis- 


If 


I 


I 


Jlii 


258 


CANADA. 


pute  was  indeed  but  seven  million  acres  of  river, 
mountain,  and  forest,  but  the  northern  boundary  of 
this  tract  overlooked  the  course  of  the  St.  Lawrence, 
and  carried  American  territory  within  a  day's  march 
of  its  stream,  whilst  the  direct  roads  and  3ommuni- 
cations  between  the  Provinces  east  and  west,  would 
be  placed  inside  American  territory.  To  the  Maine 
lumberers,  however,  this  tract  was  not  uninviting, 
and  it  became  a  debatable  land,  in  which  Brit- 
ish colonists  from  New  Brunswick,  and  American 
squatters,  carried  on  a  series  of  inroads  and  forcible 
settlements,  which  were  fortunately  unattended  by 
actual  bloodshed.  Lord  Palmerston,  who  in  1835 
notified  the  refusal  of  the  British  Government  to 
accept  the  Netherlands  compromise,  appointed  Com- 
missioners in  1839  to  inquire  into  the  state  of  the 
question  upon  the  spot,  and  their  report,  which  was 
handed  to  the  United  States  Government  in  1840, 
in  the  most  absolute  terms  laid  it  down  that  the 
southern  range  was  that  intended  by  the  treaty  of 
1783.  Mr.  (trattan,  who  was  by  no  means  unduly 
disposed  to  favor  American  pretensions,  describes 
with  terse  propriety  the  disputes  which  now  arose. 
"  All  on  our  side,"  he  says,  "  was  supercilious  pride ; 
on  that  of  the  United  States,  aggressive  coarseness." 
To  Sir  Robert  Peel  is  due  the  praise  of  having 
taken  a  decided  step  to  settle  the  northeastern 
boundary.  Lord  Ashburton,  received  with  consid- 
erable enthusiasm  in  the  United  States,  was  at  once 
accepted  by  President  Tyler,  and  for  the  better  ad- 
justment of  the  difficulty,  it  was  arranged  that  he 
should  be  met  by  Mr.  Webster  in  a  spirit  of  perfect 
candor;  that  memoranda  and  despatches  were  to  be 
dispensed  with,  and  that  every  ho-iest,  straightfor- 
ward exertion  should  be  made  on  both  sides  to  come 
to  a  satisfactory  settlement  of  the  vexed  question. 
Lord  Ashburton  had,  however,  to  encounter  not  only 
the  Secretary  of  State,  bvit  the  Commissioners  of 
Maine  and  Massachusetts,  among  whom  were  Mr. 
Abbott  Lawrence  and  Mr.  Preble. 


AMKRICAN  DIPLOMATISTS. 


259 


oarsent'ss. 


Mr.  Grattan,  who  was  actually  invited  to  assist  at 
the  negotiations  by  the  American  Commissioners, 
and  went  to  Washington  as  amicus  cnrice,  gives  a 
most  minute  and  interestins:  account  of  the  wh;)le  of 
the  proceedings,  and  states  positively  that  IMr.  Web- 
ster sent  a  conlidential  agent  to  the  Commissioners, 
proposing  a  line  fur  south  of  th'^  St.  John's  River, 
before  thoy  had  got  further  than  New  York,  which 
gave  great  offence  to  Mr.  Preble,  by  whose  influence 
it  was  rejected.  His  pertinacity  and  the  pomposity 
of  Lawn^nce,  witli  which  w(;  are  well  acquainted  in 
England,  were  obstacles  in  tl)e  way  of  a  calm  discus- 
sion of  adverse  claims,  but  the  other  Commissioners 
are  described  as  exceedingly  forbearing,  unassuming, 
and  well-behaved. 

A^  first  Lord  Ashburton  seemed  to  make  way  with 
Mr.  Webster,  and  to  be  on  the  point  of  obtaining  a 
more  favorable  line  than  that  projiosed  by  the  Neth- 
erlands compromise,  but  the  British  Commissioner 
had  no  special  proof  or  absolute  document  to  show 
that  the  highlands  south  of  St.  John  indicated  the 
boundary  me«ant  by  the  treaty  of  1783.  It  was 
known  that  Dr.  Franklin  sent  from  Paris  to  Wash- 
ington, at  the  time  of  making  the  treaty,  a  map  on 
which  was  drawn  a  red  ink-line  to  show  the  boun- 
dary to  Mr.  Jefferson. 

It  is  strange  enough  that,  in  the  state  of  confusion 
caused  by  conflicting  statements  and  contradictory 
documents,  it  should  not  have  occurred  to  Lord 
Ashburton  or  to  Mr.  Grattan,  who  records  his  own 
anxious  searches  after  i)r.  Franklin's  map,  that  a 
counter[)art  might  have  been  readily  found  in  Paris 
in  the  archives  of  the  Foreign  Office;  but  the  fact 
was,  Franklin's  map  could  nowhere  be  found  in  the 
State  Paper  Department  of  Washington. 

The  production  of  that  map  with  the  red  ink-line 
must  have  placed  the  boundary  cpustion  beyond  the 
reach  of  controversy ;  in  fact,  the  map  of  De  Ver- 
gennes  could  have  been  consulted  at  Paris,  and  the 


I 


id 


260 


CANADA. 


same  red  line  might  havn  been  seen  on  it  fis  that 
which  was  secin  in  Franklin's.  Jjord  Aberdceii  huJ 
for  some  inscrat^.blo  reason  resolved  that  the  bon.i- 
dary  ?hould  be  drawn  so  as  to  inchide  the  setth  ment 
of  Madawaska  on  the  St.  John,  within  the  British 
possessions,  whilst  the  Commissioners  were  equally- 
resolute  not  to  except  an  inch  -outh  of  the  St.  John 
itself;  and  the  arrangement  proposed  by  a  small 
European  monarch  was  regarded  by  the  Americans 
as  a  proof  that  they  were  entitled  to  all  that  they 
had  asked,  and  that  the  compromise  was  suggested 
to  propitiate  England. 

The  expectations  which  had  been  entertained  of 
an  immediate  adjustment  were  followed  by  a  re- 
newal of  angry  feeling  and  political  commotion. 
Lord  Ashburton,  after  an  unequal  struggle  with 
Webster  and  the  Commissioners,  in  a  controversial 
correspondence  on  which  he  had  not  very  wisely 
entered,  yielded  in  a  spirit  of  honorable  concession 
the  claim  of  Great  Britain  to  the  southern  line  of 
highlands.  He  was  impressed  somewhat,  no  doubt, 
by  the  vehemence  and  force  of  unanimous  public 
opinion  in  America  respecting  the  justice  of  their 
claim,  the  strc  xg  and  general  conviction  felt  that  the 
country  was  ii  the  right.  Extended  and  accessible 
on  every  side,  his  mind  could  not  resist  the  constant 
pressure  of  the  audacious  and  ]Knetratii!g  weight 
of  Webster's  intellect,  and  he  i^radually  gave  way 
like  a  crumbling  wall  to  the  tjOi>u-tide  of  intense 
determination  by  which  he  was  assailed.  The 
middle  of  the  St.  John  was  accepted  as  the  boundary, 
but  instead  of  folh^-'ving  the  highlands  overlooking 
the  valley  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  a  line  was  deter- 
mined  upon  sixty  miles  more  to  th(^  south,  which 
thus  removes  the  United  States  frontier  to  a  tolerable 
distance  from  the  navigation  of  the  river  and  the 
Jiiilitary  control  of  the  banks. 

On  both  ^ides  of  the  Atlantic  this  compromise  was 
received  with  expressions  of  disgust  and  anger.    The 


FRANKLIN'S   RED  LINE. 


romise  was 


261 


Amo^loapp,  knowing  themselves  very  well  and  Eng- 
lif.  iJ.^n  .ery  little,  declared  that  Daniel  Webster  had 
been  bought. 

In  the  land  of  liberty  it  is  the  custom  of  the  repre- 
sentatives of  the  people  to  conduct  their  debates  in 
secret  whenever  any  question  of  public  interest  arises, 
and  the  Senate  rati  tied  the  treaty  by  a  large  majority, 
after  a  long  debate  carried  on  with  closed  doors  for 
several  days. 

Some  time  after  the  treaty  had  been  signed,  it 
turned  out  that  Mr.  Webster  had  all  the  time  pos- 
sessed a  map  on  which  Franklin's  red  line,  tracing  the 
boundary  of  1783  south  of  the  St.  John,  was  distinctly 
marked. 

The  map  in  question  was  an  authentic  copy  of 
one  which  was  given  to  De  Vergennes  by  Dr.  Frank- 
lin himself  when  the  treaty  was  made.  Its  existence 
had  been  made  known  to  the  President,  to  the  Sen- 
ate, and  to  all  the  Americans  engaged  in  the  nego- 
tiation. This  map  was  no  doubt  the  same  as  that 
which  had  disappeared  from  the  State  Department. 
Its  existence  was  known  to  many  people.  It  appears 
that  Mr.  Jared  Sparks,  of  Boston,  found  in  the 
archives  at  Paris  the  following  letter :  — 

"Paisse/y,  Deer.  6thy  1782. 
"Sir, —  I  have  the  honor  of  returning  herewith 
the  map  your  Excellency  sent  me  yesterday.  I  have 
marked  with  a  strong  red  line,  according  to  your 
desire,  the  limits  of  the  United  States  as  settled  in 
the  preliminaries  between  the  British  and  American 
Plenipotentiaries. 

"  With  great  respect, 

"  I  am,  &c., 

"  B.  Franklin." 

This  letter  was  addressed  to  the  Count  De  Ver- 
gennes, the  French  'Minister.     Mr.  Sparks,  in  fact, 

discovered  the  actual  map  of  North  America  of  1746, 

la* 


■lili: 

il 


3 


!■ 


ill: 


I: 


i 


262 


CANADA. 


and  on  it  was  drawn  a  strong  red  line  throughout  the 
entire  boundary  of  the  United  States,  answering 
exactly  to  Franklin's  description.  "  Imagine,"  says 
Mr.  Sparks,  "  my  surprise  on  discovering  that  this 
line  runs  wholly  south  of  the  St.  John's,  and  between 
the  head-waters  of  that  river  and  those  of  the  Pe- 
nobscot and  Kennebec ;  in  short,  it  is  exactly  the  line 
contended  for  by  Great  Britain,  except  that  it  con- 
cedes more  than  is  claimed." 

When  the  secret  debates  of  the  Senate  were  pub- 
lished, it  was  seen  that  Mr.  Rives,  the  Chairman  of 
the  Committee  on  Foreign  Affairs,  had  fortified  his 
argument  against  the  rejection  of  this  Ashburton  line 
by  quoting  the  existence  of  this  map,  and  warning 
them  of  the  risk  and  danger  of  a  further  search  into 
the  archives  of  Europe.  In  the  debate  that  followed, 
Mr.  Benton,  eager  to  overthrow  the  value  of  Mr. 
Sparks's  discovery  and  of  Mr.  Rives's  argument, 
produced  a  map  from  the  Jeflerson  collection  in  the 
library  of  Congress,  which  contained  a  dotted  line 
marking  the  boundary  of  the  Government  of  Quebec 
under  the  proclamation  of  1763,  but  strange  to  say, 
he  overlooked  the  fact  which  was  at  once  visible  to 
every  eye,  aiat  a  strong  red  line,  indicating  the  limits 
of  the  United  States  according  to  the  Treaty  of 
Peace,  was  traced  acioss  it,  which  coincided  minutely 
and  exactly  with  the  boundary  on  Mr.  Sparks's  map. 

Those  v/ho  wiwh  for  the  most  minute  details  re- 
specting this  map,  may  be  referred  to  Mr.  Grattan's 
work.  The  map  of  Baron  Steiben,  and  that  of  Fa- 
den,  coincide  in  a  most  remarkable  manner  in  mark- 
ing the  limit?  of  the  United  States. 

It  is  worthy  of  note  that  Mr.  Buchanan,  the  last 
President  )f  the  United  States,  did  his  very  best  to 
maintain  the  |n"Oi)riety  of  the  deceit.  Mr.  Calhoun 
is  supposed  to  have  itppreciated  the  importance  of  the 
discoveries,  aod  to  i^ave  felt  the  injury  to  American 
diplomacy  whicl*  Mr.  Webster's'suppressions  of  truth 
might  create  ot.)  future  occasions.     The  Americans 


MR.   WKUSTER'S   OPINION. 


263 


actually  made  use  of  the  weakness  of  the  English 
Minister  as  an  argument  that  they  had  been  cheated 
thetnselves,  and  Mr.  Webster's  ability  in  concealing 
the  truth  was  considered  evidence  that  he  had  not 
gone  far  enough  in  the  same  line,  and  h'3  reputation 
as  a  skilful  and  successful  negotiator  was  considered 
not  to  stand  very  high.  The  action  of  Sir  Robert 
Peel,  however,  prevented  any  endeavor  to  obtain  the 
legitimate  advantages  which  the  discovery  of  these 
maps  ought  to  have  produced. 

The  decision  arrived  at  affected  the  State  of  Maine 
and  the  pretensions  of  its  people,  but  it  had  little  to 
do  with  the  prosperity  or  military  strength  of  the 
whole  of  the  Union  ;  whilst  it  weakened  Canada  in  its 
weakest  point,  and  conferred  most  signal  advantage 
on  the  only  enemy  it  had  to  fear;  it  bit  in  to  the  sub- 
stance of  the  Provinces,  and  at  the  same  time  cut 
the  vein  of  communication  with  the  sea  for  five  long 
winte:*  months.  Strange  that  a  line  drawn  upon  a 
piece  of  paper  by  the  hand  of  a  man  gathered  to  his 
fathers  for  so  many  years,  should  for  a  time  at  least 
decide  so  much  of  a  nation's  happiness  and  prosperity 
—  for  a  time  only,  because  it  must  soon  be  that  the 
increasing  power  or  failing  resources  of  the  United 
States,  or  of  Canada,  will  cause  a  modification  of  the 
present  frontier,  more  in  accordance  with  the  com- 
mercial and  military  exigencies  of  the  two  States. 
The  Canadians  feel  that  Imperial  diplomacy  has 
done  them  a  great  wrong,  possibly  very  much  as 
France  feels  in  respect  to  her  Rhenish  boundary;  but 
in  a  military  point  of  view,  perhaps  the  cession  of 
Rouse's  Point  has  been  the  most  serious  of  all  the 
circumstances  affecting  the  relations  for  aggressive 
purposes  of  the  United  States  with  the  Province 

In  order  that  we  may  aj)preciate  the  importance  of 
Mr.  Webster's  achievement,  let  us  quote  his  own 
description  of  it  in  the  great  debate  which  took  place 
in  the  Senate  on  the  Washington  Treaty.  Mr. 
Webster,  in  noticing  some  of  the  many  charges  made 


m  mn- 


mn 


264 


CANADA. 


:\ii 


against  him  in  reference  to  the  treaty,  dealt  with  the 
question  of  military  concession  in  the  following  man- 
ner :  — 

"  Lord  Paimerston  (if  he  be  the  author  of  certain 
publications  ascribed  to  him)  says  that  all  the  impor- 
tant points  were  given  up  by  Lord  Ashburton  to  the 
United  States,  I  might  here  state,  too,  that  Lord 
Paimerston  called  the  whole  treaty  *  the  Ashburton 
capitulation,' declaring  that  it  yielded  everything  that 
was  of  importance  to  Great  Britain,  and  that  all  its 
stipulations  were  to  the  advantage  of  the  United 
States,  and  to  the  sacrifice  of  the  interests  of  Eng- 
land. But  it  is  not  on  such  general,  and,  I  may  add, 
such  unjust  statements,  nor  on  any  off-hand  expres- 
sions used  in  debate,  though  in  the  roundest  terms, 
that  this  question  must  turn.  He  speaks  of  this  mil- 
itary road,  but  he  entirely  misplaces  it.  The  road 
which  runs  from  New  Brunswick  to  Canada  follows 
the  north  side  of  the  St.  John  to  the  mouth  of  the 
Madawaska,  and  then,  turning  northwest,  follows  that 
stream  to  Lake  Temiscoata,  and  thence  proceeds  over 
a  depressed  part  of  the  highlands  till  it  strikes  the 
St.  Lawrence  117  miles  below  Quebec.  This  is  the 
road  which  has  been  always  used,  and  there  is  no 
other. 

"  I  admit  that  it  is  very  convenient  for  the  British 
Government  to  possess  territory  through  which  they 
may  enjoy  a  road  ;  it  is  of  great  value  as  an  avenue 
of  communication  in  time  of  peace;  but  as  a  military 
communication  it  is  of  no  value  at  all.  What  busi- 
ness can  an  army  ever  have  there  ?  Besides,  it  is  no 
gorge,  no  pass,  no  narrow  defile,  to  be  defended  by  a 
fort.  If  a  fort  should  be  built  there,  an  army  could, 
at  pleasure,  make  a  detour  so  as  to  keep  out  of  the 
reach  of  its  guns.  It  is  very  useful,  I  admit,  in  time 
of  peace.  But  does  not  everybody  know,  military 
man  or  not,  that  unless  there  is  a  defile,  or  some  nar- 
row place  through  which  troops  must  pass,  and  which 


MR.   WEBSTER'S  OPINION. 


265 


a  fortification  will  command,  that  a  mere  open  road 
must,  in  time  of  war,  be  in  the  power  of  the  strong- 
est ?  If  we  retained  by  treaty  the  territory  over  which 
the  road  is  to  be  constructed,  and  war  came,  would 
not  tiie  English  take  possession  of  it  if  they  conld  ? 
Would  they  be  restrained  by  a  regard  to  the  treaty  of 
Washington?  I  have  never  yet  heard  a  reason  ad- 
duced why  this  communication  should  be  regarded 
as  of  the  slightest  possible  advantage  in  a  military 
point  of  view. 

"  But  the  circumstance  to  which  I  alhule  is,  that, 
by  a  map  published  with  the  speech  of  the  honorable 
member  from  Missouri,  made  in  the  Senate,  on  the 
question  of  ratifying  the  treaty,  this  well-known  and 
long-used  road  is  laid  down,  probably  from  the  same 
source  of  error  which  misled  Lord  Palmerston,  as 
following  the  St.  John,  on  its  south  side,  to  the  mouth 
of  the  St.  Francis;  thence  along  that  river  to  its 
source,  and  thence,  by  a  single  bound,  over  the  high- 
lands to  the  St.  Lawrence,  near  Quebec.  This  is  all 
imagination.  It  is  called  the  *  Valley  Road.'  Valley 
Road,  indeed!  Why,  Sir,  it  is  represented  as  run- 
ning over  the  very  ridge  of  the  most  inaccessible  part 
of  the  highlands!  It  is  made  to  cross  abrupt  and 
broken  precipices,  2000  feet  high!  It  is,  at  different 
points  of  its  imaginary  course,  from  fifty  to  a  hundred 
miles  distant  from  the  real  road. 

"  So  much,  Mr.  President,  for  the  great  boon  of 
military  communication  conceded  to  England.  It  is 
nothing  more  nor  less  than  a  common  road,  along 
streams  and  lakes,  and  over  a  country  in  great  part 
rather  fiat.  It  then  passes  the  heights  to  the  St. 
Lawrence.  If  war  breaks  out,  we  shall  take  it  if  we 
can,  and  if  we  need  it,  of  which  there  is  not  the 
slightest  probability.  It  will  never  be  protected  by 
fortifications,  and  never  can  be.  It  will  be  just  as 
easy  to  take  it  from  England,  in  case  of  war,  as  it 
would  be  to  keep  possession  of  it,  if  it  were  our  own. 

"  In  regard  to  the  defence  of  the  heights,  I  shall  dis- 


:i    ! 


? 


It 


I';  I 


in 


Iff  fTfS--^ 


266 


CANADA. 


pose  of  that  subject  in  a  few  w  'ds.  There  is  a  ridge 
of  highlands  which  does  approach  the  river  St. 
Lawrence,  although  it  is  not  true  that  it  overlooks 
Quebec ;  on  the  contrary,  the  ridge  is  ut  the  distatice 
of  thirty  or  forty  miles. 

"  It  is  very  natural  that  military  men  in  England, 
or  indeed  in  any  part  of  Europe,  should  have  nttached 
great  importance  to  these  mountains.  The  great 
military  authority  of  England,  perhaps  the  highest 
living  military  authority,  had  served  in  India  and  on 
the  European  continent,  and  it  was  natural  enough 
that  he  should  apply  European  ideas  of  military  de- 
fences to  America.  But  they  are  quite  inapplicable. 
Highlands  such  as  these  are  not  ordinarily  found  on 
the  great  battle-fields  of  Europe.  They  are  neither 
Alps  nor  Pyrenees;  they  have  no  passes  through 
them,  nor  roads  over  them,  and  never  will  have. 

"  Then  there  was  another  cause  of  misconception  on 
this  subject  in  England.  In  1839  an  ex-parle  survey 
was  made,  as  I  have  said,  by  Colonel  Mudii^e  and  Mr. 
Featherstonhaiigh,  if  survey  it  could  be  called,  of  the 
region  in  the  North  of  Maine,  for  the  use  of  the  Brit- 
ish Government.  I  dare  say  Colonel  Mudge  is  an  in- 
telligent and  respectable  officer ;  how  much  personal 
attention  he  gave  the  subject  I  do  not  know.  As 
to  Mr.  Featherstonhaugh,  he  has  been  in  our  service, 
and  his  authority  is  not  worth  a  straw.  These  two 
persons  made  a  report,  containing  this  very  singular 
statement :  That  in  the  ridge  of  highlands  neaiest  to 
the  St.  Lawrence,  there  was  a  great  hiatus  in  one 
particular  place,  a  gap  of  thirty  or  forty  miles,  in 
which  the  elevation  did  not  exceed  fifty  feet.  This  is 
certainly  the  strangest  statement  that  ever  was  made. 
Their  whole  report  gave  but  one  measurement  by  the 
barometer,  and  that  measurement  stated  the  height  of 
1200  feet.  A  survey  and  map  were  made  the  follow- 
ing year  by  our  own  commissioners,  Messrs.  Graham 
and  Talcott,  of  the  Corps  of  Topographical  Engi- 
neers, and  Professor  Renwick,  of  Columbia  College. 


OUR  SHAKE  OF  EQUIVALKNTS. 


2J7 


!ii: 


On  this  map,  the  very  spot  where  thU  gap  was  said  to 
be  situated  is  dotled  over  tliiekly  with  figures,  show- 
ing heights  varying  from  1200  to  2000  feet,  and  form- 
ing oik;  rough  and  h)fly  ridge,  marked  by  abrupt  and 
nbnost  |)er|)endieular  preeipiees.  When  this  map  and 
report  of  Messrs.  Mudge  and  Featherstonhangh  wert; 
published,  the  British  authorities  saw  that  this  al- 
leged gap  was  laid  down  as  an  indefensible  point, 
and  it  was  probably  on  that  ground  alone  that  they 
desired  a  line  east  of  that  ridge,  in  order  that  they 
might  guard  against  access  of  a  hostile  |)ower  from 
the  United  States.  But  in  truth  there  is  no  such 
gap;  our  engineers  proved  this,  and  we  quite  well 
understood  it  when  agreeing  to  the  boundary.  Any 
man  of  common  sense,  military  or  not,  must  there- 
fore now  see,  that  nothing  can  be  more  imaginary  or 
unfounded  than  the  idea  that  any  importance  attaches 
to  the  possession  of  these  heights. 

"  Sir,  there  are  two  old  and  well-known  roads  to 
Canada;  one  by  way  of  Lake  Champlain  and  the 
Richelieu,  to  Montreal — this  is  the  route  which 
armies  have  traversed  so  often  in  different  periods 
of  our  history.  The  other  leads  from  the  Kenne- 
bec River  to  the  sources  of  the  Chaudiere  and  the  Du 
Loup,  and  so  to  Quebec  —  this  last  was  the  track 
of  ArnokPs  march.  East  of  this,  there  is  no  prac- 
ticable communication  for  troops  between  Maine 
and  Canada,  till  we  get  to  the  Madawaska.  We 
had  before  us  a  report  from  General  Wool,  while 
this  treaty  was  under  negotiation,  in  which  that  in- 
telligent officer  declares  that  it  is  perfectly  idle  to 
think  of  fortifying  any  point  east  of  this  road.  East 
of  Arnold's  track  it  is  a  mountain  region,  through 
which  no  tinny  can  possibly  ;)ass  into  Canada. 
With  General  Wool  was  associated,  in  this  ex- 
amination, Major  Graham,  whom  I  have  already 
mentioned.  His  report  to  General  Wool,  made  in 
the  year  1838,  nearly  points  out  the  Kennebec  and 
Chaudiere  road  as  the  only  practicable  route  for  an 


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CANADA. 


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army  between  Maine  and  Quebec.  He  was  subse- 
quently employed  as  a  commissioner  in  the  ex-parte 
surveys  of  the  United  States.  Being  an  engineer 
officer  of  high  character  for  military  knowledge  and 
scientific  accuracy,  his  opinion  had  the  weight  it 
ought  to  have,  and  which  will  be  readily  given  to 
it  by  all  who  know  him.  His  subsequent  and  still 
more  thorough  acquaintance  with  this  mountain 
range,  in  its  whole  extent,  has  only  confirmed  the 
judgment  which  he  had  previously  formed.  And, 
Sir,  this  avenue  to  Canada,  this  practicable  avenue, 
and  only  practicable  avenue  east  of  that  by  way 
of  Lake  Champlain,  is  left  now  just  as  it  was  found 
by  the  treaty.  The  treaty  does  not  touch  it,  nor  in 
any  manner  affect  it. 

"  But  I  must  go  further.  I  said  that  the  treaty  of 
Washington  was  a  treaty  of  equivalents,  in  which 
it  was  expected  that  each  party  should  give  some- 
thing and  receive  something.  I  am  now  willing  to 
meet  any  gentleman,  be  he  a  military  man  or  not, 
who  will  make  the  assertion,  that,  in  a  military  point 
of  view,  the  greatest  advantages  derived  from  that 
treaty  are  on  the  side  of  Great  Britain.  It  was  on 
this  point  that  I  wished  to  say  something  in  reply 
to  an  honorable  member  from  New  York,  who 
will  have  it  that  in  this  treaty  England  supposes  that 
she  got  the  advantage  of  us.  Sir,  I  do  not  think  the 
militai'y  advantages  she  obtained  by  it  are  worth  a 
rush.  But  even  if  they  were,  if  she  had  obtained 
advantages  of  the  greatest  value,  would  it  not  have 
been  fair  in  the  member  from  New  York  to  state, 
nevertheless,  whether  there  were  not  equivalent  mili- 
tary p.dvantages  obtained  on  our  side,  in  other  parts 
of  the  line  ?  Would  it  not  have  been  candid  and 
proper  in  him,  when  adverting  to  the  military  ad- 
vantages obtained  by  England,  in  a  communication 
between  New  Brunswick  and  Canada,  if  such  ad- 
vantages there  were,  to  have  stated,  on  the  other 
hand,  and  at  the  same  time,  our  recovery  of  Rouse's 


STRATEGIC  VALUE  OF  ROUSE'S  POINT. 


269 


Point,  at  the  outlet  of  Lake  Champlain  ?  an  advan- 
tage which  overbalanced  all  others,  forty  times  told. 
I  must  be  allowed  to  say,  that  I  certainly  never  ex- 
pected that  a  member  from  New  York,  above  all 
other  men,  should  speak  of  this  treaty  as  conferrin<]f 
military  advantages  on  Grqp,t  Britain  without  full 
equivalents.  I  listened  to  it,  I  confess,  with  utter 
astonishment.  A  distinguished  senator  from  that 
State  saw  at  the  time,  very  clearly,  the  advantage 
gained  by  this  treaty  to  the  United  States  and  to 
New  York.  He  voted  willingly  for  its  ratification, 
and  he  never  will  say  that  Great  Britain  obtained  a 
balance  of  advantages  in  a  military  point  of  view. 

"  Why,  how  is  the  State  of  New  York  affected 
by  this  treaty  ?  Sir,  is  not  Rouse's  Point  perfectly 
well  known,  and  admitted,  by  every  military  man, 
to  be  the  key  of  Lake  Champlain  ?  It  commands 
every  vessel  passing  up  or  down  the  lake,  between 
New  York  and  Canada.  It  had  always  been  sup- 
posed that  this  point  lay  some  distance  bouth  of  the 
parallel  of  45*^,  which  was  our  boundary-line  with 
Canada,  and  therefore  was  within  the  United  States  ; 
and,  under  this  supposition,  the  United  States 
purchased  the  land,  and  commenced  the  erection  of 
a  strong  fortress.  But  a  more  accurate  survey  hav- 
ing been  made  in  1818,  by  astronomers  on  both 
sides,  it  was  found  that  the  parallel  of  45*^  ran  south 
of  this  fortress,  and  thus  Rouse's  Point,  with  the 
fort  upon  it,  was  found  to  be  in  the  British  dominions. 
This  discovery  created,  as  well  it  might,  a  great  sen- 
sation here.  None  knows  this  better  than  the  hon- 
orable member  from  South  Carolina,  who  was  then 
at  the  head  of  the  Department  of  War.  As  Rous'i's 
Point  was  no  longer  ours,  we  sent  our  engineers  to 
examine  the  shores  of  the  lake,  to  find  some  other 
place  or  places  which  we  might  fortify.  They  made 
a  report  on  their  return,  saying  that  there  were  two 
other  points  some  distance  south  of  Rouse's  Point, 
one  called  Windmill  Point,  on  the  east  side  of  the 


!M 


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Vi,  I 
■•ii 


ii 


II 


i. 


m 


,  V  ■' 


li  ■  i 


,,i 


270 


fff'fiifftTfHiitw^iiiiiffir'fr''-- 


CANADA. 


lake,  and  the  other  called  Stony  Point,  on  the  west 
side,  which  it  became  necessary  now  to  fortify,  and 
they  gave  an  estimate  of  the  probable  expense. 
When  this  treaty  was  in  process  of  negotiation,  we 
called  for  the  opinion  of  military  men  respecting  the 
value  of  Rouse's  Poini,  in  order  to  see  whether  it 
was  highly  desirable  to  obtain  it.  We  had  their  re- 
port before  us,  in  which  it  was  stated  that  the 
natural  and  best  point  for  the  defence  of  the  out- 
let of  Lake  Champlain  was  Rouse's  Point.  In  fact, 
anybody  might  see  that  this  was  the  case  who  would 
look  at  the  map.  The  point  projects  into  the  nar- 
rowest passage  by  which  the  waters  of  the  lake  pass 
into  the  Richelieu.  Any  vessel  passing  into  or  out 
of  the  lake,  must  come  within  point-blank  range  of 
the  guns  of  a  fortress  erected  on  this  point ;  and  it 
ran  out  so  far  that  any  such  vessel  must  approach 
the  fort,  head  on,  for  several  miles,  so  as  to  be  ex- 
posed to  a  raking  fire  from  the  battery,  before  she 
could  possibly  bring  her  broadside  to  bear  upon  the 
fort  at  all.  It  was  very  different  with  the  points 
farther  south.  Between  them  the  passage  was 
much  wider ;  so  much  so,  indeed,  that  a  vessel 
might  pass  directly  between  the  two,  and  not  be 
in  reach  of  point-blank  shot  from  either." 

Mr.  Dickinson,  of  New  York,  here  interposed,  to 
ask  whether  the  Dutch  line  did  not  give  us  Rouse's 
Point. 

"  Certainly  not.  It  gave  us  a  semicircular  line, 
running  round  the  fort,  but  not  including  what  we 
had  possessed  before.  And  besides^  we  had  rejected 
the  Dutch  line,  and  the  whole  point  now  clearly 
belonged  to  England.  It  w?-g  all  within  the  British 
territory. 

"  I  was  saying  that  a  vessel  might  pass  between 
Windmill  Point  and  Stony  Point,  and  be  without 
the  range  of  both,  till  her  broadside  could  be  brought 
to  bear  upon  either  of  them.  The  forts  would  be 
entirely  independent  of  each   other,  and,  having  no 


I Y  I'lV-*-  — '-J— ■■■-^ 


MR.  WEBSTER  ON  THE  INVASION  OF  CANADA.     271 


communication,  conld  not  render  each  other  the 
least  assistance  in  case  of  attack.  But  the  military 
men  told  us  there  was  no  sort  of  question  that  Rouse's 
Point  was  extremely  desirable  as  a  point  of  mili- 
tary defence.  This  is  plain  enough,  and  I  need  not 
spend  time  to  prove  it.  Of  one  thing  I  am  certain, 
that  the  true  road  to  Canada  is  by  the  way  of  Lake 
Champlain.  That  is  the  old  path.  I  take  to  myself 
the  credit  of  having  said  here,  thirty  years  ago, 
speaking  of  the  mode  of  taking  Canada,  that,  when 
an  American  woodsman  undertakes  to  fell  a  tree, 
he  does  not  begin  by  lopping  off  the  branches,  but 
strikes  his  axe  at  once  into  the  trunk.  The  trunk,  in 
relation  to  Canada,  is  Montreal,  and  the  river  St. 
Lawrence  down  to  Quebec ;  and  so  we  found  in  the 
last  war.  It  is  not  my  purpose  to  scan  the  propriety 
of  military  measures  then  adopted,  but  I  suppose  it 
to  have  been  rather  accidental  and  unfortunate  that 
we  began  the  attack  in  Upper  Canada.  It  would 
have  been  better  military  policy,  as  I  suppose,  to 
have  pushed  our  whole  force  by  the  way  of  Lake 
Champlain,  and  made  a  direct  movement  on  Mon- 
treal ;  and  though  we  might  thereby  have  lost 
the  glories  of  the  battles  of  the  Thames  and  of 
Lundy's  Lane,  and  of  the  sortie  from  Fort  Erie,  yet 
we  should  have  won  other  laurels  of  equal,  and  per- 
haps greater,  va]ue  at  Montreal.  Once  successful  in 
this  movement  the  whole  country  above  would 
have  fallen  into  our  power.  Is  not  this  evident  to 
every  gentleman? 

"  Rouse's  Point  is  the  best  means  of  defending 
both  the  ingress  into  the  lake,  and  the  exit  from  it. 
And  I  say  now,  that  on  the  whole  frontier  of  the 
State  of  New  York,  with  the  single  exception  of  tho 
Narrows  below  the  city,  there  is  not  a  point  of  equal 
importance.  I  hope  this  government  will  last  for- 
ever ;  but  if  it  does  not,  and  if,  in  the  judgment  of 
Heaven,  so  great  a  calamity  shall  befall  us  as  the 
rupture  of  this  Union,  and  the  State  of  New  York 


ii'i    9^[ 


■). .  .  .,  -1   i.im 


272 


CANADA. 


shall  thereby  be  thrown  upon  her  own  defences,  I  ask, 
is  there  a  single  point,  except  the  Narrows,  the  pos- 
session of  which  she  will  so  much  desire  ?  No, 
there  is  not  one.  And  how  did  we  obtain  this  ad- 
vantage for  her  ?  The  parallel  of  45°  north  was 
established  by  the  treaty  of  1783  as  our  boundary 
with  Canada  in  that  part  of  the  line.  But,  as  I  have 
stated,  that  line  was  found  to  run  south  of  Rouse's 
Point.  And  how  did  we  get  back  this  precious  pos- 
session? By  running  a  semicircle  like  that  of  the 
King  of  the  Netherlands  ?  No ;  we  went  back  to 
the  old  line,  which  had  always  been  supposed  to  be 
the  true  line,  and  the  establishment  of  which  gave 
us  not  only  Rouse's  Point,  but  a  strip  of  land  con- 
taining some  thirty  or  forty  thousand  acres  between 
the  parallel  of  45°  and  the  old  line. 

"  The  same  arrangement  gave  us  a  similar  advan- 
tage in  Vermont ;  and  I  have  never  heard  that  the 
constituents  of  my  friend  near  me  made  any  com- 
plaint of  the  treaty.  That  State  got  about  sixty 
or  seventy  thousand  acres,  including  several  villages, 
which  would  otherwise  have  been  left  on  the  British 
side  of  the  line.  We  received  Rouse's  Point,  and 
this  additional  land,  as  one  of  the  equivalents  for 
the  cession  of  territory  made  in  Maine.  And  what 
did  we  do  for  New  Hampshire  ?  There  was  an 
ancient  dispute  as  to  which  was  the  northwestern- 
most  head  of  the  Connecticut  River.  Several  streams 
were  found,  either  of  which  might  be  insisted  on  as 
the  true  boundary.  But  we  claimed  that  which  is 
called  Hall's  Stream.  This  had  not  formerly  been 
allowed ;  the  Dutch  award  did  not  give  to  New 
Hampshire  v^hat  she  claimed ;  and  Mr.  Van  Ness, 
our  Commissioner,  appointed  under  the  Treaty  of 
Ghent,  after  examining  the  ground,  came  to  the  con- 
clusion that  we  were  not  entitled  to  Hall's  Stream. 
I  thought  that  we  were  so  entitled,  although  I  admit 
that  Hall's  Stream  does  not  join  the  Connecticut 
River  till  after  it  has  passed  the  parallel  of  45°.     By 


NEW  HAMPSHIRE  —  VERMONT. 


273 


)l 

■I     'I 


fences,  I  ask, 
ows,  the  pos- 
lesire  ?      No, 
tain  this  ad- 
\°  north  was 
)ur  boundary 
^ut,  as  I  have 
ch  of  Rouse's 
precious  pos- 
ie  that  of  the 
ivent  back  to 
apposed  to  be 
f  which  gave 
of  land  con- 
acres between 

similar  advan- 
leard  that  the 
ade  any  corn- 
et about  sixty 
2veral  villages, 
on  the  British 
b's  Point,  and 
quivalents  for 
e.     And  what 
here  was   an 
north  wester  n- 
everal  streams 
insisted  on  as 
that  which  is 
formerly  been 
give   to   New 
Ir.  Van  Ness, 
he  Treaty  of 
e  to  the  con- 
all's   Stream, 
ough  I  admit 
Connecticut 
ilof45°.     By 


the  Treaty  of  Washington  this  demand  was  agreed 
to,  and  it  gave  New  Hampshire  100,000  acres  of  land. 
I  do  not  say  that  we  obtained  this  wrongfully ;  but 
I  do  say  that  we  got  that  which  Mr.  Van  Ness  had 
doubted  our  right  to.  I  thought  the  claim  just,  how- 
ever, and  the  line  was  established  accordingly.  And 
here  let  me  say,  once  for  all,  that,  if  we  had  gone 
for  arbitration,  we  should  inevitably  have  lost  what 
the  treaty  gave  to  Vermont  and  New  York  ;  because 
all  that  was  clear  matter  of  cession,  and  not  adjust- 
ment of  doubtful  boundary." 

Unfortunately  Mr.  Webster  but  too  well  described 
our  share  of  the  advantages  obtained  by  this  "  treaty 
of  equivalents."  The  consequences  to  us  in  a  war 
might  be  more  disastrous  than  those  he  indicated. 


«»#«•<«  ■,)i*/t-«W,Js&^gij^>JJ 


(III 


274 


CANADA. 


,  { 


h-> 


CHAPTER  XVII. 

The  Acadian  Coi. federation. —  Union  is  Strength.  —  The  Provinces. — 
New  Hriinswick.  —  Tlie  Temperature.  —  Trade  of  St.  John.  —  Climate 
and  Agriculture  of  Nova  Scotia.  —  I'rince  Kdward  Island.  —  Newfound- 
land. —  The  Kod  Hiver  District.  —  Assiniboia.  —  The  Red  Kiver  Valley. 
Minnesota  and  the  West.  —  The  Hudson's  Bay  Company — Their  Ter- 
ritory. —  The  Northwest  Regions.  —  Climate  of  Winnipeg  Basin  —  Its 
Area. —  Finances  of  the  Confederation. —  Imports,  Exports,  and  Ton- 
nage. —  Proposed  Federal  Constitution.  —  Lessons  from  the  American 
Struggle. 

We  have  now  seen  the  dangers  which  threaten 
Canada,  we  have  to  some  extent  examined  the  means 
of  resisting  them,  and  have  followed  the  process  by 
which  a  severe  injury  was  inflicted  on  her  powers  of 
defence.  Mr.  Webster  was  a  grand  specimen  of  un- 
scrupulous intelligence  —  he  was  a  colossal  "Yan- 
kee." It  will  be  observed  that  he  regarded  the  acqui- 
sitions so  dexterously  made  —  qv^cunque  modo  rem 
—  as  valuable  on  account  of  their  military  capabili- 
ties—  that  he  took  the  highest  point  accessible  to 
the  American  mind  when  he  showed  that  his  work 
could  be  made  available  for  the  annoyance  and 
injury  of  Great  Britain.  In  so  far  he  betrayed  —  if 
indeed  there  is  any  deception  in  the  matter  —  the 
animating  principle  of  American  political  life.  Let 
any  public  man  prove  that  he  has  hurt  the  English 
power  or  affronted  it  —  that  he  has  damnified  its 
commerce  and  lowered  its  prestige,  and  the  popular 
sentiment  will  applaud  him,  no  matter  the  agency 
by  which  his  purpose  was  effected.  Recent  events 
have  greatly  inflamed  the  spirit  which  always  burned 
against  us.  The  very  events  which  have  broken  up 
the  Union  may  resolve  its  fragments  into  a  new 
combination  more  formidable  and  more  aggressive. 

The  course  open  to  Canada,  which  may  feel  once 
more  the  force  of  that  permanent   principle  in   the 


UNION   IS   STRENGTH. 


275 


/.  >  lerican  mind,  is  plain.  Great  Britain  may  be 
too  far  off.  She  may  be  too  much  engaged  to  hv, 
able  to  aid  Canada  elficicntly  and  fully.  But  on  the 
borders  of  Canada  there  are  provinces  with  great  re- 
sources and  a  great  future,  which  have  hitherto  been 
prevented  by  various  considerations  from  welding 
themselves  into  a  Confederation.  The  time  has 
come  now  in  the  white  heat  of  American  strife  for 
the  adoption  of  the  process.  The  Confederation  of 
States  with  divers  interests  under  a  weak  executive 
has  fallen  to  pieces.  All  the  more  reason  for  a  Con- 
federation of  States  with  common  interests  and  with 
one  governing  principle.  If  we  accept  the  common 
governing  principle  of  all  the  Colonies  and  Provinces 
to  be  their  attachment  to  Monarchical  institutions, 
any  pressure  from  the  influences  of  Republican  in- 
stitutions can  but  consolidate  their  union. 

Under  the  circumstances  in  which  the  various  dis- 
tinct dependencies  of  the  British  Crown  in  the  Con- 
tinent of  North  America  find  themselves  placed,  it 
is  not  surprising  that  the  idea  of  a  Confederation  for 
the  purposes  of  common  defence  and  military  corrob- 
oration should  have  arisen.  It  is  surprising  that  it 
should  have  floated  about  so  long,  and  have  stirred 
men  to  action  so  feebly.  I  think  it  is  the  first  notion 
that  occurs  to  a  stranger  visiting  Canada  and  cast- 
ing about  for  a  something  to  put  in  place  of  the 
strength  which  distant  England  cannot,  and  Cana- 
dians will  not,  afford.  At  least,  there  is  no  sign  as 
yet  that  the  Canadians  will  quite  arouse  from  a  sleep 
which  no  fears  disturb,  although  they  hear  the  noise 
of  robbers.  They  will  not  prepare  for  war,  because 
they  wish  for  peace,  and  it  is  plain  enough  that  if 
war  should  come  instead  of  peace,  England  vvould 
be  too  late  to  save  them,  because  she  would  be  too 
far.  Now,  let  it  not  be  supposed  that  any  confedera- 
tion of  the  Canadas  and  British  North  American 
provinces  would  yield  such  an  increase  of  force  as 
would  enable  the  collective  or  several  members  of  it 


:'  i 


IK 


! 


I 


>"»w"<p*<rf^«*»»S  £ 


ami 


276 


CANADA. 


to  resist  the  force  of  the  Republic  of  the  Northern 
American  United  Statics  —  at  least,  not  just  now. 
But  in  the  very  conflict  in  which  the  Northern  and 
Southern  Confederations  are  engaged  we  see  the 
vast  energy  and  resources  of  a  union  of  States  in 
war  time  as  compared  with  the  action  of  States  not 
so  joined :  —  France,  Great  Britain,  Turkey,  and 
Sardinia  were  associated  in  the  war  with  Russia,  but 
their  power  would  have  been  much  greater  had  they 
acted  under  a  common  head.  There  is  in  every  as- 
sociation of  the  States  the  danger  of  ultimate  con- 
vulsions, and  of  death  itself,  whenever  the  constitu- 
tion and  ideas  of  one  State  difl'er  from  those  of 
another ;  for  the  diflference  of  constitution  and  ideas 
is  sure  to  produce  soon  a  conflict  of  interests  and 
opinions  which  the  bond  of  federation  cannot  com- 
press. In  the  two  Canadas  there  are  certain  oppos- 
ing principles  at  work  which  have  interfered  with 
harmonious  action  at  times.  These  might  receive 
greater  vitality  and  power  on  each  side  if  the  cohe- 
sion of  the  British  dependencies  were  not  complete. 
The  religious  questions  which  now  are  mixed  with 
questions  of  race  would  perhaps  acquire  development 
and  become  more  active  and  more  mischievous.  But 
the  actual  positive  visible  dangers  of  non- Confedera- 
tion are  more  weighty  than  those  which  may  come 
by  and  by  from  the  adoption  of  a  common  central 
government  subject  to  the  Crown.  Setting  out  with 
the  principles  of  submission  to  the  Throne  —  with 
the  recognition  of  the  sovereignty  of  the  monarch  of 
Great  Britain  and  Ireland — with  the  full  acknowl- 
edgment of  the  rights  and  prerogatives  pertaining  to 
the  Crown  —  with  the  charters  of  their  several  and 
collective  liberties  in  their  possession,  the  only  great 
schism  to  be  apprehended  is  one  which  might  arise 
from  the  exercise  of  Parliamentary  control  over  the 
action  of  the  Confederation,  because  colonists  will 
never  admit  that  the  Parliament  can  stand  in  the 
place  of  the  Crown.     Let  us  take  a  glance  at  the 


NEW   BHUNSWICK. 


277 


vast  area,  and  consider  the  importance  of  the  vari- 
ous colonies  which  own  now  no  bond  of  connection, 
except  a  common  obedience  to  the  Queen,  in  order 
that  we  may  appreciate  their  strength  as  a  Confed- 
eration. 

The  Province  of  New  Brunswick  contains  just 
28,000  square  miles;  it  lies  between  4-5°  and  48''  kit. 
(north),  and  63°  45'  and  67°  50'  lonjc,'.  (west),  washed 
on  the  east  by  the  waters  of  the  Gulf  of  St.  Law- 
rence, and  on  the  south  by  those  of  the  Bay  of 
Fundy.  It  has  a  very  extensive  seaboard,  not  less 
than  two  thirds  being  maritime  ;  whilst  on  the  west 
it  is  bounded  by  the  frontier  of  the  State  of  Maine, 
and  on  the  north  by  Lower  Canada.  The  popula- 
tion in  1851  was  193,000,  and  it  probably  is  not  less 
now  than  225,000  souls.  The  boastfulness  of  the 
Americans,  and  more  especially  of  New  Englanders, 
in  all  that  relates  to  their  country,  causes  us  to  over- 
look the  progress  of  our  own  colonies,  and  we  shall 
be  surprised  to  find  the  increase  of  people  in  New 
Brunswick  has  been  greater  than  that  of  Vermont, 
Maine,  or  New  Hampshire,  by  an  average  of  10  per 
cent,  within  the  decade  up  to  1851.  The  Govern- 
ment is  vice-monarchical  and  parliamentary ;  the 
Lieutenant-Governor  of  the  Province  being  Com- 
mander-in-Chief, Admiral,  and  Chancellor.  His 
ministers  are  the  Executive  Council,  consisting  of 
nine  members,  whose  tenure  of  office  depends  on  the 
will  of  the  people,  inasmuch  as  they  must  retire  on 
a  vote  of  want  of  confidence.  The  Parliament  con- 
sists of  the  Legislative  Council,  which  is  somewhat 
analagous  to  the  House  of  Peers.  It  is  composed 
of  21  members,  who  are  appointed  by  the  Crown 
durante  placito^  but  who  usually  hold  office  for  life. 
Although  the  Peers  of  Parliament  are  in  one  sense 
nominated  by  the  Crown,  they  are  legislators  durante 
vitdj  and  cannot  be  removed  from  their  functions  by 
the  Crown,  and  in  other  respects  there  are  defects  in 

13 


i' 


T-sinqy^jy^yr'wrT'tfO.  tv^JCJCr..  '."y 


278 


CANADA. 


an  analogy  between  them  and  the  House  of  Lords. 
The  House  of  Assembly,  consisting  of  41  members, 
is  elected  every  four  years  by  the  peop'''  of  the  four- 
teen counties,  and  of  the  city  of  t)t.  John.  The 
House  levies  taxes  and  duties,  airi  regulates  the  ex- 
penditure and  internal  atfairs  of  the  Province  ;  but 
the  Legislative  Council  may  reject  all  its  measures 
except  those  relating  to  money  matters,  and  the  as- 
sent of  the  Governor-General  is  needed  to  all  meas- 
ures whatever.  But  it  does  not  follow  that  the  con- 
sent of  Council,  Assembly,  and  Lieutenant-Governor 
will  do  more  than  stamp  the  measure  with  the  pop- 
ular and  official  imprimatur  in  the  eyes  of  the  Home 
Government,  because  Her  Majesty  in  Council  may 
reject  any  law  whatever.  It  is  rather  in  theory  than 
in  practice,  however,  that  such  an  exercise  of  pre- 
rogative exists  ;  but  in  case  of  any  marked  difference 
of  opinion  between  the  Home  Government  and  the 
Colonial  Legislature,  it  is  obvious  that  such  a  power, 
however  consonant  with  monarchical  right  and  tra- 
dition, might  cause  serious  antagonism  and  create 
wide  breaches.  The  risk  of  such  disturbing  influ- 
ences would,  of  course,  be  diminished  by  the  action 
of  a  general  government. 

It  is  little  more  than  100  years  since  a  number  of 
English  settlers  and  colonists,  then  loyal,  coming 
from  Massachusetts,  sailed  from  Newbury  port  to 
the  coast  of  New  Brunswick,  which  had  been  ceded 
by  France  to  the  British  in  1713.  Constantly  men- 
aced by  the  French  Canadians,  the  few  English  who 
represented  the  Crown  could  scarcely  be  considered 
to  hold  the  most  attenuated  possession  of  the  Prov- 
ince, until  the  French  were  obliged  finally  to  cede 
all  claims  to  the  possession  of  an  acknowledged 
nationality  in  British  North  America.  The  English 
maintained  that  the  whole  tract  of  country  now 
known  as  Nova  Scotia  and  New  Brunswick  be- 
longed to  the  Crown  by  virtue  of  the  discoveries  of 
Sebastian  Cabot;  but  the  French  were  the  first  to 


NEW   BRUNSWICK. 


279 


of  Lords. 

members, 
f  the  four- 
3hn.  The 
tes  the  ex- 
/ince  ;  but 
r*  measures 
md  the  as- 

0  all  rnt'as- 
at  the  con- 
t-Governor 
th  the  pop- 

the  Home 
onncil  may 
theory  than 
else  of  pre- 
d  difference 
lent  and  the 
Lch  a  power, 
^ht  and  tra- 

1  and  create 
)ing  influ- 

y  the  action 


number  of 
yal,  coming 
bury  port  to 
been  ceded 
jtantly  men- 
ngUsh  who 
considered 
)f  the  Prov- 
dly  to  cede 
iknowledged 
'he  English 
mntry    now 
inswick  be- 
Iscoveries  of 
the  first  to 


found  permanent  settlements,  and  certainly  gave  good 
reason  why  Acadia,  as  they  termed  the  district,  de- 
spite its  frosts  and  snows  and  long  lugubrious  win- 
ters, should  belong  to  the  /triir-de-lis.  As  soon  as 
Wolfe's  victory  had  established  the  power  of  Eng- 
land, the  enterprising  spirit  of  the  New  Englanders 
led  them  to  undertake  settlements  in  these  neglected 
regions.  They  carried  with  tllem  what  they  had 
derived  from  the  old  country, —  a  love  of  law,  not 
of  litigation  ;  the  forms  of  justice  in  the  courts  which 
administered  its  substance,  —  a  magistracy,  a  police, 
a  moral  life  and  social  liberty ;  these  were  possessed 
by  the  settlers  at  a  time  when  the  vast  majority  of  the 
people  of  Ireland  was  deprived  of  any  semblance  of 
such  rights;  and  when  Scotland,  unsuccessful  in  her 
last  effort  for  legitimacy  and  the  Divine  right  of 
kings,  Was  just  recovering  from  the  swoon  into  which 
she  had  fallen  as  the  last  volleys  rolled  away  from 
Culloden. 

The  New  Englanders  who  settled  Mangerville  and 
civilized  Sunbury  were  loyal  to  the  Crown  in  the 
revolt  of  the  colonies  ;  they  formed  a  nucleus  round 
which  gathered  many  of  the  New  England  Tories 
and  their  families,  so  that  in  1783  it  was  considered 
expedient  by  the  Government  to  locate  those  who 
were  called  loyalists,  and  who  shook  the  dust  off  their 
feet  at  the  door  of  the  New  Republic,  along  the 
cleared  settlements  adjoining  the  Bay  of  Fundy  and 
the  water  of  St.  John.  It  is  strange  that  the  first 
newspaper  should  have  been  printed  by  these  outcasts 
at  a  time  when  there  were  scarcely  half  a  dozen  jour- 
nals known  in  the  mother-country ;  but  the  peculiar 
circumstances  under  which  these  immigrants  were 
placed  no  doubt  developed  the  energies  of  a  press 
which  was  not  shackled  by  any  political  censorship. 
The  wealth  of  the  people  lay  around  them  ;  their 
mines  were  in  the  forest,  and  the  axe  provided  them 
with  currency.  To  Sir  Guy  Carlton,  the  first  Gov- 
ernor, when  New  Brunswick  received  ^  distinct  char- 


fm 


.-;.( 


■5*5* 


t 


2S0 


CANADA. 


t(M'  and  a  mow  constilnfion,  and  was  soparatod  from 
Nova  Srotia,  in  17S8,  must  bo  i'onc(»(lo(l  llio  ortulit 
of  liaviii<r  iimsiul  for  1  woiity  yoars,  willi  siiuj^ular  care 
and  succoss,  llio  infaiioy  of  llio  colony;  —  a  ucccs- 
sion  of  Presidents  or  (i.»v(M'nors  and  (\)uncillors, 
whoso  names  are  r(»|>rodueed  in  tlio  lust(>ry  of  tin; 
American  co'onies,  —  such  men  as  HovcHoy  llohiu- 
son,  Pulman,  \Vinsh)w, and  liudiow,  —  succeed<Hl  in 
the  charj^'c,  and  piuhiaily  developed  the  resources  of 
the  risinjj;  coimnuuity. 

Fire  has  wrouL(ht  mor<'  than  owe  great  wrong  to 
ihis  land  of  frosi  and  snow.  Yet,  ii  would  not.  be 
just  to  deserilx'  New  lirunswick  as  a  Siberia.  From 
rhristmas  to  March  the  country  is  tolerably  well  pro- 
vided with  a  coi?>ing  of  snow.  Frt)m  April  to  May 
})loughing  and  seed- lime  last,  and  bofort^  October 
ihe  harvests  are  generally  gathered  in.  A  glorious 
autumn  yields  to  the  rainfalls  of  November,  and 
these  in  their  turn  harden  to  sh^ei  and  snow  iri  De- 
cember; but,  after  all,  nearly  sev(Mi  months  give 
ppace  for  sowing,  ploughing,  reaping,  and  saving. 
The  New  Brur.awickers,  indeed,  believe  that  the  very 
severity  of  the  frost  in  winter  tends  to  rondt»r  the 
cultivation  of  the  land  more  easy  than  it  is  in  Brit- 
ain; and  certainly  rainfalls,  and  all  tin*  variableness 
of  climate,  do  more  injury  in  iMigland  than  they  do 
in  New  Ikunswick.  Vho.  greatest  rang*.,  of  tem- 
j)erature  are  in  the  (lulf  of  St.  liawrence,  where  they 
reach  from  XiO'^  below  zero  to  90'  above  it ;  the  higlu^st 
lemperaturo  at  St.  John  may  ho.  roc^koned  at  8G'\the 
lowest  at  14°.  There  are  about  180  clear  days  and 
120  cloudy  days  in  the  year,  and  the  snow-storms 
rarely  last  more  than  two  days  at  a  time.  Now  here 
is  a  region  to  which  one  would  think  ihe  bedrenchod 
Highlander,  the  betaxed  Englislnnaii,  and  much- 
vexed  Irishman  would  resort  in  myriads.  And  there 
is  land  for  many.  At  least  6,000,000  acres  of  land 
suited  for  crops  and  wood-settlementa  are  still  to  be 
disposed  of.     l^or  half-a-crown  a  man  may  buy  an 


NKW   imUNSWRK. 


281 


aero  of  land,  but  of  iluit  sum  only  7ld.  is  demandod 
on   salo,  and   the   nMnuiiulcr   may  bo   paid  in  instid- 


nuMits  ("xliMidintr  ovor  tin 


or 


rv'.wa.     Tlio  sairs  of  tl 


\c 


country  lands  aro  niont'  y.  If  thc^  srtth»r  lii\«»s  to 
pay  on  tho  spot  ho  oan  havo  his  land  for  "^s.  an  aoro. 
Think  of  that,  con-aoro  uumi  of  Tipporary  and  Loi- 
trinil  Think  of  that,  farniors  of  tho  Lothians,  or 
tenants  of  tho  Uitjjhhind  straths!  Shall  I  ask  tho 
nuMi  of  Dorsetshire  and  Kast  (Jloueovster  to  tliink  of 
it  too?  Nor  wood  they  tear  to  ehanp^e  their  mode 
of  lif(»,  exeopt  it  be  for  the  better,  after  the  first 
rud(»  work  of  labor  is  done  ;  nor  ikmuI  thov  ft'ar  to 


I 


HuH'er  from  elimate  or  diseas(\  Typhus  will  eoase  to 
kill  —  fever  and  dysentery  to  deeimate.  And  if  tlu^ 
settler  has  kinsmen  and  frii^nds  willing  to  join  with 
him,  he  oan  ehiim  for  himself  and  osieii  of  them  100 
acres  of  land,  and  pay  for  it  by  tho  work  of  road-mak- 
ing in  the  la^w  country,  so  tliat  in  four  years,  if  tho 
work  set  by  the  C-onunissionors  be  executed,  each 
man  who  has  been  one  ytnir  resident  and  has  brought 
ten  acres  into  cultivation,  becomes,  ipso  Jarto^  owner 
of  the  whole  lot  of  100  acres.  Now  this  is  in  a 
country  which  has  been  described  by  no  incompetent 
witness,  not  as  the  peer  of  any  rogioji  on  earth  in  the 
beauty  of  wood  anil  water,  but  as  tla^  superior  of 
the  best.  The  St.  John  Hows  in  all  its  grandeiir 
through  the  midst  of  the  provinc(»,  and  the  Resti- 
gouchd  gives  a  charm  of  scenery  to  the  forest  not 
to  be  surpassed.  Lakes  and  sti\'ams  open  up  deli, 
valley,  and  mountain  -  pass.  l^iVery  creek  in  the 
uuich-indentcd  coast  swarms  with  fish.  'V\w,  l^ay 
of  Fundy  aboimds  with  coiltish  and  pollock,  hak(», 
haddock,  shad,  herring,  halibut,  mackerel,  eels,  skatv', 
and  many  other  kinds  of  lish.  The  mouths  of  tla^ 
rivers  swarm  with  salmon,  trout,  striped  bass,  gas- 
pereaux,  shad,  and  white  trout.  The  (Julf  of  St. 
Lawrence  and  the  Hay  of  Chah^u-s  yield  n«»arly 
every  .description  of  valuable  tish,  as  well  as  lobsters, 
crabs,  oysters,  and  other  shell-lish.      The    IVovincc 


11 

Mw 

' 

.-' 

'  'W 

* 

' 

f,  ■ 

»? 

) 

I  frl: 


282 


CANADA. 


receives  nearly  100,000/.  a  year  in  exchange  for  the 
fish  packed  in  ice,  or  cured  and  exported  to  foreign 
countries.  Its  wealth  in  timber  is  incalculable,  be- 
cause the  value  rises  gradually  with  the  demand  for 
the  produce  of  its  forests  all  over  the  world,  and, 
with  prudent  management,  these  forests  may  be 
considered  as  inexhaustible.  Coal  of  a  bituminous 
character  has  been  worked  for  some  years  past  in 
several  districts ;  iron,  manganese,  lead,  and  copper, 
also  exist  in  considerable  quantities,  and  the  mineral 
produce  of  the  Province  will  no  doubt  add  much  to 
its  importance  as  the  works  receive  greater  develop- 
ment. 

Although  the  trade  of  shipbuilding  does  not  show 
a  regular  increase,  the  size  of  the  vessels  built  at  St. 
John  and  Miramichi  has  been  increasing.  Upwards 
of  100  ships  were  launched  at  these  ports  in  1860, 
with  a  measurement  of  41,000  tons,  and  were  worth 
upwards  of  320,000/.  Various  branches  of  trade 
have  obtained  respectable  dimensions,  and  are  grow- 
ing steadily.  Frederickton,  the  capital  of  the  Province, 
is  situated  on  the  St.  John,  eighty-two  miles  from  the 
sea,  where  the  navigation  for  sea-going  ships  may  be 
regarded  as  at  an  end.  The  number  of  great  lakes 
which  are  available  for  internal  commerce  and  trans- 
port complete  the  facilities  offered  by  the  river  system 
and  by  the  main  roads,  the  latter  of  which  have  been 
liberally  promoted  by  the  Province.  The  water-power 
of  the  colony  is  boundless.  Education  is  provided 
by  the  Legislature,  so  that  the  poorest  man  can  give 
his  children  the  advantage  of  a  sound  instruction 
almost  without  cost.  Religion  is  free,  and  the  volun- 
tary system  mitigates  the  animosity  of  sects.  Emi- 
grants from  the  South  of  Irelind  have  found  here  all 
the  conditions  of  prosperity,  and  have  turned  them 
to  good  account.  Scotch  and  English  thrive  exceed- 
ingly. Indeed,  if  it  were  not  that  the  greater  clamor 
and  bustle  of  the  United  States  had  succeeded  in 
overpowering  the  appeals  of  New  Brunswick  to  the 


NOVA  SCOTIA. 


283 


favor  of  the  emigrant,  many  thousands  of  our  coun- 
t'-ymen  would  have  there  found  the  ease  and  com- 
fort which  they  have  sought  in  vain  under  the  rule 
of  the  Republic.  The  very  name,  New  Brunswick, 
has  no  doubt  repelled  settlers.  A  New  Brunswick 
ship  they  know  nothing  of  even  if  they  see  one,  and 
the  name  itself  rarely  reaches  their  ears. 

Nova  Scotia  formerly  comprised  the  Province  of 
New  Brunswick,  but  is  now  reduced  to  the  length  of 
256  miles,  and  the  breadth  of  100  miles.  The  island 
of  Cape  Breton,  which  belongs  to  it,  is  100  miles  longj 
and  72  broad.  The  area  of  Nova  Scotia  and  Cape 
Breton  is  over  18,000  square  miles.  The  population 
is  estimated  at  370,000,  the  Census  of  1861  having 
given  330,860  and  the  ratio  of  increase  having  been 
on  an  average  of  four  per  cent,  per  annum ;  but  emi- 
grants are  rarely  attracted  to  the  colony.  In  1861,  of 
the  people,  294,000  were  native  Nova  Scotians,  16,000 
were  of  Scottish,  9000  of  Irish,  3000  of  English  ori- 
gin ;  France,  which  founded  the  colony,  had  only  88 
representatives  on  land.  The  English  Church  had 
48,000  members,  the  Scotch  Church  numbered  88,000, 
the  Church  of  Rome  80,000  ;  there  were  56,000  Bap- 
tists, 34,000  Wesleyans,  and,  wonderful  to  say,  only  3 
Deists.  When  it  is  considered  that  the  coal-fields  of 
Nova  Scotia  are  the  finest  in  the  world,  that  her  min- 
ing wealth  is  extraordinary,  that  her  seas,  lakes,  and 
rivers  teem  with  fish,  that  her  forests  yield  the  finest 
timber,  that  the  soil  gives  an  ample  return  to  the 
farmer,  and  the  earth  is  full  of  mineral  resources,  it 
is  surprising  that  emigrants  of  limited  means  have 
not  been  tempted  to  try  their  fortune,  in  spite  of 
the  threatening  skies  and  somewhat  rigid  winters. 
Nearly  fiive  millions  and  a  half  acres  of  land  are  still 
in  the  hands  of  the  Crown,  of  which  upwards  of  four 
inillion  acres  arc  open  for  settlement,  and  the  aver- 
age price  is  about  Is.  Sd.  an  acre.  From  a  very 
trustworthy  work  .prepared  by  Messrs.  Hind,  Keefer, 


rf 


ilffW 


284 


CANADA. 


Hodgins,  Robb,  Perley,  and  the  Rev.  Wm.  Murray, 
to  which  I  am  indebted  for  much  valuable  informa- 
tion, it  would  appear  that  the  climate  of  Nova  Scotia 
is  by  no  means  so  severe  as  it  is  reported  to  be,  both 
in  Great  Britain  and  the  United  States.  Though,  at 
some  seasons,  the  weather  is  very  severe,  as  com- 
pared with  England,  Ireland,  the  South  of  Scotland, 
and  a  great  portion  of  the  United  States  of  America, 
still  it  is  more  conducive  to  health  than  the  milder 
but  more  humid  corresponding  seasons  in  those 
countries.  The  length  and  severity  of  Nova  Scotia 
winters  are  greatly  compensated  by  the  mildness  and 
beauty  of  autumn  —  which  is  protracted,  not  unfre- 
quently,  into  the  middle  of  December  —  as  well  as  by 
the  months  of  steady  sleighing  which  follow.  The 
extreme  of  cold  is  24°  Fahr.  below  zero  ;  the  extreme 
of  heat,  95°  above,  in  the  shade.  These  extremes 
have  not  been  often  attained  to  of  late  years.  The 
mean  temperature  of  the  year  is  43°.  There  are 
about  100  days  in  which  the  temperature  is  above 
70°  in  summer.  There  are  about  twenty  nights  in 
the  year  in  which  the  temperature  is  below  zero. 
The  coldest  season  is  from  the  last  week  of  Decem- 
ber till  the  first  week  of  March. 

The  following  table  exhibits  the  annual  mean 
temperature  of  several  European  cities,  as  compared 
with  Halifax,  Nova  Scotia,  and  Toronto,  C.  W.  :  — 


Latitude. 
44»  40^ 


Fahrenheit. 

Halifax 43.8 

43    39 Toronto 44.4 

31 Berlin 47.5 

23 Dublin 49.1 

7 Frankfort 49.5 


52 
53 

50 
49 


39 Cherbourg 52.1 


MEAN   SUMMER  TEMPERATUUE. 

Fahrenheit. 

Halifax 62.0 

Toronto 64.5 

Greenwich 60.9 

Berlin 63.2 

Cherbourg 61.9 

The  annual  quantity  of  rain  which  falls  is  about 


CLIMATE  OF  NOVA  SCOTIA. 


285 


I.  Murray, 
e  iiiforma- 
)va  Scotia 
o  be,  both 
rhough,  at 
3,  at*  com- 
[  Scotland, 
f  America, 
the  milder 
\    in    those 
ova  Scotia 
ildness  and 

not  unfre- 
;  well  as  by 
How.  The 
the  extreme 
je  extremes 
^ears.     The 

There  are 
re  is  above 
ty  nights  in 

elow  zero. 

of  Decem- 

Inual   mean 

Is  compared 

C.  W.  :  — 

Ihrenheit. 
1.43.8 

.44.4 
1.47.5 

.49.1 

1.49.5 

.52.1 


leit. 
.62.0 
.64.5 
.60.9 
63.2 
.61.9 

lis  is  about 


forty-one  inches.  Of  this  quantity  about  six  and  a 
half  inches  fall  in  the  form  of  snow.  The  annual 
depth  of  snow  is  eight  and  a  half  feet.  Much  of 
this  quantity  of  snow  is  not  allowed  to  rest  long  in 
its  solid  form.  There  are  about  114  days  of  rain  on 
the  average  in  each  year;  much  of  this  occurs  in 
winter.  The  average  number  of  days  of  snow  in 
each  year  is  about  sixty.  Violent  tempests  are  not 
of  frequent  occurrence  in  Nova  Scotia.  The  pre- 
vailing winds  are  the  southwest,  w^est,  and  north- 
west. In  summer  the  north,  northwest,  and  west 
winds  are  cool  and  dry.  In  winter  they  are  cold  and 
piercing.  The  south  and  southwest  are  mild  — 
agreeable  —  delightful.  The  northeast  brings  the 
greatest  snow  -  storms ;  the  east  and  southeast  the 
most  disagreeable  rain-storms.  Spring  cotnmences 
in  Nova  Scotia  with  the  beginning  of  April.  Seed- 
time and  planting  continue  till  the  middle  of  June. 
Summer  begins  with  the  latter  pc'-rt  of  June,  and 
embraces  July  and  August.  Veg'itation  is  very 
rapid  in  the  middle  and  western  parts  of  the  prov- 
ince, where  the  hay  crop,  and  usually  nearly  all 
the  grain  crops,  are  harvested  by  the  last  week  of 
August  or  first  week  of  September.  Autumn  is  the 
finest  season  in  Nova  Scotia.  It  is  mild,  serene,  and 
cool  enough  to  be  bracing,  and  the  atmosphere  is  of 
a  purity  that  renders  it  peculiarly  exhilarating  and 
health-giving.  The  "  Indian  summer"  occurs  some- 
times as  late  as  the  middle  of  November,  and  lasts 
from  three  to  ten  days.  The  winter  in  Nova  Scotia 
may  be  said  to  comprise  about  four  months.  It 
begins,  some  seasons,  with  the  1st  of  December,  and 
runs  into  the  month  of  April.  In  other  seasons  it 
begins  in  the  middle  of  December  and  ends  with  the 
last  of  March.  The  mean  temperature  of  spring  is 
49 ;  of  summer,  62° ;  of  autumn,  35°  ;  of  winter, 
22°.  Similarity  in  agricultural  productions  furnishes 
a  very,  fair  criterion  for  the  comparison  of  the  cli- 
mates of  different  countries.     Wheat,  rye,  oats,  bar- 

lev«  buckwheat,  Indian  corn,  potatoes,  turnips,  man- 
ia* 


m 

.1.'  ■ 


^ 


\i% 


m 
m 


286 


CANADA. 


f    ^  i  ; 


gel-wurzel,  tomatoes,  and  other  roots  and  grains  grow 
in  abundance  and  perfection  in  Nova  Scotia.  Ap- 
ples, pears,  plums,  cherries,  and  a  multitude  of  smaller 
garden-fruits  attain  the  utmost  perfection.  In  some 
sections  of  the  country  peaches  and  grapes  ripen  in 
the  open  air.  The  climate  of  Nova  Scotia  is  highly 
favorable  both  to  health  and  length  of  days.  Men 
and  women  frequently  attain  to  the  age  of  eighty 
years  with  the  full  possession  of  their  mental  facul- 
ties, and  in  excellent  bodily  health.  It  is  not  un- 
usual to  find  men  enjoying  good  health  at  ninety; 
and  not  a  few  reach  one  hundred  years,  while  some 
pass  that  extreme  boundary.  Let  the  proportion  of 
deaths  to  population  in  Nova  Scotia  be  compared 
with  that  in  Great  Britain  and  the  State  of  Rhode 
Island :  — 


Nova  Scotia,  1  in  70.71,  or   less  than  1^  per  cent. 
Rhode  Island,  1  in  46.11,  or  more  than  2 
Great  Britain,  1  in  44.75,  or  more  than  2 


The  climate  of  Nova  Scotia  is  not  noted  for  the 
generation  of  any  disease  peculiar  to  itself.  Diphthe- 
ria has,  of  late  years,  been  its  most  terrible  scourge. 

Prince  Edward  Island  —  called  so  after  the  Father 
of  Queen  Victoria  —  is  another  member  of  the  great 
group  of  British  colonies  and  dependencies.  This 
island,  which  is  about  130  miles  long  and  30  miles 
broad,  has  less  than  100,000  inhabitants.  It  con- 
tained less  than  5000  souls  in  1770,  when  it  was 
separated  from  the  government  of  Nova  Scotia,  and 
was  erected  into  an  independent  province  under  un- 
favorable circumstances,  arising  out  of  the  unfor- 
tunate conditions  which  were  made  when  the  land 
was  allotted  to  the  original  proprietors.  The  early 
history  of  the  colony  afforded  a  remarkable  exempli- 
fication of  wrong-doing  with  good  intentions,  and 
the  errors  of  the  first  English  rulers  who  regulated 
the  settlement  of  the  province  were  not  atoned  for 
till  many  years  of  patient  effort  on  the  part  of  the 
people  had  been  devoted  to  a  removal  of  abuses. 


NEWFOUNDLAND. 


287 


The  island  is  under  a  Governor  named  by  the 
Crown,  whose  Cabinet  consists  of  an  Executive 
Council  of  nine,  selected  from  the  Legislative  Coun- 
cil and  from  the  House  of  Assembly,  the  former  con- 
sisting of  twelve,  the  latter  of  thirty  members,  elected 
by  the  people. 

Newfoundland  is  420  miles  long,  and  has  an  ex- 
treme breadth  of  300  miles.  The  population  is  now 
about  130,000.  Notwithstanding  its  name,  there  is 
reason  to  believe  that  it  was  known  to  Icelanders 
and  Norwegians,  to  Vikings  and  Danes,  four  cen- 
turies before  Cabot  came  upon  his  Bonavista.  The 
early  history  of  our  connection  with  this  great  island 
is  not  creditable  to  those  who  had  influence  with  the 
home  authorities.  In  1832,  following  the  principle 
of  universal  suffrage,  which  was  considered  appli- 
cable to  a  colony,  though  it  was  rejected  at  home,  a 
Legislative  system  was  erected  on  the  basis  of  man- 
hood franchise,  the  only  qualification  being  that  the 
voter  should  have  been  a  year  in  the  same  house. 
The  Governor,  who  is  of  course  a  representative  and 
nominee  of  the  Crown,  is  assisted  by  an  Executive 
Council  of  five  members,  and  the  Parliament  con- 
sists of  a  Legislative  Council  of  twelve  and  a  House 
of  Assembly  of  thirty  members. 

There  exists  on  the  west  of  Canada  a  vast  region 
which  may,  perhaps,  become  great  and  flourishing  in 
less  time  than  the  districts  which,  inhabited  by  red 
men  and  wild  beasts  in  1776,  now  form  some  of  the 
most  important  of  the  North  and  South  American 
States. 

It  is  one  of  the  very  greatest  of  the  evils  connected 
with  our  parliamentary  system,  that  small  or  local 
interests  at  home  are  likely  to  receive  attention  in 
preference  to  the  largest  general  interests  of  depen- 
dencies. The  Colonial  Otfice  is  a  sort  of  buffer 
between  Parliament  and  the  shocks  of  colonial  ag- 


li 

I 

If 


288 


CANADA. 


W' 


t 


SI  ■ 

■P      I 


1.        '■ 


7!: 

i.        „;^. 

|:- 

i,-  ,  ■ 

K. 

..    »'■ 

» 

r*'    ' 

1 

^:  .*" 

i 

■  :i  ■■■, 

1 

V^' 

1 

^M 

gressions  and  demands;  and  the  Chancellor  of  the 
Exchequer  can  at  any  time  find  easy  .means  of 
squelching  any  tendency  in  the  chancellor  of  a  bar- 
barian administration  "to  dip  his  finger"  into  the 
Imperial  purse.  Now,  when  "the  People  of  Rtid 
River  settlement"  address  a  memorial  to  the  British 
and  Canadian  Governments  with  the  view  of  obtain- 
ing a  road  to  open  up  the  wonderfully  fine  country 
they  inhabit  to  British  subjects  and  to  commerce, 
without  dependency  on  the  United  States,  it  may  so 
happen  that  at  the  period  in  question  the  smallest 
claim  of  a  metropolitan  borough  shall  be  considered 
of  far  greater  preponderance ;  nor  will  the  Govern- 
ment or  the  Colonial  Office  at  any  time  be  much 
disposed  to  irritate  a  friendly  member  who  is  inimical 
to  colonies,  or  to  provoke  the  animosity  of  econo- 
mists, for  an  object  which  is  as  intangible  and  incom- 
prehensible to  the  mass  of  Parliament  as  a  project 
to  run  a  railway  to  Eutopia,  or  to  connect  Timbuctoo 
with  China.  Mr.  Sandford  Fleming,  who  has  been 
selected  as  the  agent  of  these  very  settlers,  has  set 
forth  their  case  with  much  ability ;  but  he  will  scarce 
become  the  Lesseps  of  this  overland  Suez,  unless 
some  members  of  the  House,  who  really  look  beyond 
the  interests  of  the  day,  and  take  heed  for  the  future 
of  the  Empire,  can  be  induced  to  listen  to  his  facts 
and  arguments.  In  1863  a  statement  was  submitted 
by  that  gentleman  to  Lord  Monck  in  elucidation  of 
the  memorial  of  the  settlers,  which  contains  most 
interesting  facts  and  some  valuable  arguments. 
Among  the  works  of  good  governments  the  making 
of  roads  and  securing  of  easy  means  of  intercom- 
munication among  the  people  subject  to  them  must 
ever  be  of  paramount  importance.  'J'he  people  of 
Red  River  ask  for  the  opening  of  the  Lake  Superior 
route  to  British  Columbia,  and  to  have  a  telegraphic 
line  established,  to  both  of  which  objects  they  will 
contribute  to  the  best  of  their  ability.  The  point  of 
British  territory  nearest  to  the  Red  River  settlement 


THE   RED  RIVER  DISTRICT. 


289 


lommerce, 


by  water  is  on  the  northern  shore  of  Lake  Superior, 
400  miles  distant ;  and  tho  intervening  distance  can 
only  be  traversed  by  a  combined  system  of  "  portages" 
and  canoe-voyages,  so  difficult  and  tedious  as  in  effect 
to  bar  the  access  of  commercial  enterprise,  and  to 
chill  any  spirit  but  that  of  adventurous  geography, 
amateur  travel,  or  the  search  after  gold  and  game  — 
thus,  in  fact,  constituting  obstacles  which  are  well 
described  as  "  practically  exiling  the  settlers  for  the 
last  two  generations  '  The  route  proposed  for  the 
links  which  are  to  connect  the  exiles  with  the  world 
would  be  a  part  of  the  great  project  to  connect 
the  shores  of  the  Atlantic  and  Pacific  within  the 
British  possessions ;  and  it  is  maintained  that  the 
favorable  character  of  the  Red  River  district  for 
such  a  road  removes  the  objections  which  might  be 
formed  on  the  ground  of  distance  and  difficulty. 
The  Hudson's  Bay  Company  used  the  Pigeon  River 
route,  which  runs  along  by  the  boundary  of  the 
United  States,  and  is  therefore  not  desirable  in  case 
of  hostilities,  and  the  Kaministiguia  route,  called  so 
from  the  river  of  that  name.  Mr.  Fleming,  taking  up 
the  suggestions  of  Mr.  Dawson  in  his  report  to  the 
Canadian  Government,  recommends  the  creation  of 
a  territorial  road  from  some  point  in  connection  with 
the  railway  system,  such  as  Ottawa,  to  Nipigon 
Bay  on  Lake  Superior,  which  would  be  ample  as  a 
trading-port,  whence  a  stage  and  steamboat  com- 
munication could  be  established  by  making  197 
miles  of  roads  and  two  dams  —  one  at  the  outlet 
of  Dog  Lake,  and  the  other  at  Little  Falls ;  or,  by 
making  232  miles  of  road,  and  a  couple  ol  locks 
at  Fort  Francis,  and  a  dam,  the  route  might  be  re- 
duced to  273  miles  of  water,  if  the  road  were 
pushed  on  to  Savanne  River.  It  must  be  remem- 
bered that  the  Americans  have  already  established  a 
route  by  Chicago ;  but  an  examination  of  the  dis- 
tances' from  Toronto  shows  that  the  Lake  Superior 
route  would  save  no  less  than  715  miles  of  rail,  35 


!"■• 


290 


CANADA. 


m 


iu: 


.ic 


of 


water, 
owcver. 


and  58  of  road.  The  American  route, 
possesses  the  ac  itage  of  having  already 
820  miles  of  rail,  of  whic  «514  carry  the  traveller 
to  Chicago  from  Toronto,  and  30(5  convey  him  from 
Chicago  to  Prairie  La  Crosse  ;  whereas  there;  is  only 
a  length  of  95  miles  open  in  Canada,  from  Toronto 
westwards  to  Collingwood.  There  is  also  an  Ameri- 
can route  by  Detroit,  Milwaukie,  and  La  Crosse  to 
Fort  Garry,  1096  miles  long,  but  that  is  still  646 
miles  longer  than  the  communication  which  could 
be  made  by  means  of  232  miles  of  road,  the  con- 
struction of  a  dam  and  the  locks  in  question.  Labor 
might  be  tempted  by  otfering,  as  is  suggested, 
blocks  of  100  acres  to  settlers  on  condition  of  their 
giving  ten  days'  work  in  each  year  for  ten  years 
on  the  road,  and  thus  preparing  it  for  a  railway 
track;  but  the  settlers  must  be  more  patient  and 
easily  satisfied  than  their  language  now  indicates, 
if  they  are  content  with  the  prospect  of  such  a 
tedious  fulfilment  of  their  wishes.  They  are  will- 
ing to  open  a  road  100  miles  long  to  the  Lake 
of  Woods  if  England  or  Canada  will  guarantee  the 
rest  of  the  road  to  Lake  Superior;  and  they  believe 
such  a  road  would  rapidly  fill  Central  British  Amer- 
ica with  an  industrious  loyal  people,  and  counteract 
the  influence  of  the  North  American  Republics. 
Whether  the  grand  confederation  which  they  foresee 
of  flourishing  provinces  from  Vancouver's  Island  to 
Nova  Scotia,  commanding  the  Atlantic  and  the 
Pacific,  and  keeping  in  line  the  boundaries  of  the 
Republicans,  be  ever  realized  in  our  day,  it  is  plain 
that  the  people  will  neither  be  British  nor  ^oyal  if 
they  are  neglected.  The  Americans  have  long  been 
turning  their  eyes  in  the  direction  of  these  regions. 
Mr.  Sibley,  the  last  Governor  of  Minnesota,  ordered 
Mr.  James  W.  Taylor  to  obtain  reliable  information 
relative  to  the  physical  aspects  and  other  facts  con- 
nected with  the  British  possessions  on  the  line  of  the 
overland  route  from  Pembina,  vid  the  Red  River  set- 


ASSINIDOIA. 


291 


tlemcnt  and  tiie  Siiskatchew  ;»n  Valloy,  to  Frazer'8 
River.  That  gentlcmairs  report  was  presented  by 
(xovernor  Ramsay  to  tlu?  Legislature  of  the  State 
ill  18H0,  with  a  recoininemlation  to  their  attention 
as  "  rehiting  to  matters  wliieh  eoneern  in  a  great 
degree  the  future  growth  and  d(Jvelopnient  of  our 
State."  Mr.  Taylor  was  received  by  Mr.  McTavish 
at  the  Selkirk  s(;ttlement  with  every  respect  and  con- 
sideration, lie  found  the  British  colony  of  Assini- 
boia  prosperous  and  flourishing.  Respecting  that 
colony  he  says  :  — 

"  Of  the  present  comnnunity  of  ten  thousand  souls, 
about  five  thousand  are  competent,  at  this  moment, 
to  assume  any  civil  or  social  responsibility  which 
may  be  imposed  upon  them.  The  accumulations 
from  the  fur  trade  during  fifty  years,  with  few  excite- 
ments or  opportunities  of  expenditure,  have  secured 
general  prosperity,  with  frequent  instances  of  afliu- 
ence ;  while  the  numerous  churches  and  schools  sus- 
tain a  high  standard  of  morality  and  intelligence. 

"  The  people  of  Selkirk  fully  appreciate  the  advan- 
tages of  communication  with  the  Mississippi  River 
and  Lake  Superior  through  the  State  of  Minnesota. 
They  are  anxious  for  the  utmost  facilities  of  trade 
and  intercourse.  The  navigation  of  the  Red  River 
by  a  steamboat  during  the  summer  of  1859  was  uni- 
versally recognized  as  marking  a  new  era  in  their 
annals.  This  public  sentiment  was  pithily  expressed 
by  the  remark,  — '  In  1851  the  Governor  of  Minnesota 
visited  us ;  in  1859  comes  a  steamboat ;  and  ten 
years  more  will  bring  the  railroad ! '  " 

The  persons  who  expressed  that  sentiment  differed 
entirely  from  the  memorialists  already  mentioned  ; 
but  it  must  be  that  the  Selkirk  people,  if  neglected, 
will  incline  towards  the  hand  which  is  stretched  out 
to  them  across  the  waste,  no  matter  whence  it  comes. 
"  Most  amicable  relations  "  do  no  doubt  "  exist  be- 
tween the  trading-post  at  Port  Garry  and  Kitson's 
Station  at  St.  Boniface ; "  but  long  as  they  may  en- 
dure —  and  I  trust  they  may  be   perpetual  —  they 


292 


CANADA. 


P 


It  ;■■;: 


v4 


will  not  amount  to  a  preference  for  Republican  in- 
stitutions, if  the  mother-country  seelts  to  secure  the 
settlers  by  the  most  tender  or  subtle  link  of  interest 
or  regard.  What  change  may  be  made  in  respect  to 
the  jurisdiction  and  powers  of  the  Hudson's  Bay 
Company  by  the  home  authorities  must  depend  for 
the  time  on  circumstances  ;  but  the  actual  settlers 
seem  to  hope  that  the  rumors  which  attributed  to 
Lord  Derby's  Government  the  intention  of  organiz- 
ing a  colony,  bounded  by  Lakes  Superior  and  Win- 
nipeg on  the  east,  by  the  Rocky  Mountains  on  the 
west,  by  the  American  frontier  on  the  south,  and  by 
lat.  55°  on  the  north,  may  yet  be  justified.  The 
Canadian  Government,  Palliser's  expedition,  Noble's 
explorations,  Mr.  J.  W.  Hamilton's  surveys,  and  a 
considerable  number  of  public  and  private  investiga- 
tions conducted  in  the  interests  of  politics,  commerce, 
religion,  and  geographical  science,  have  all  contrib- 
uted their  share  to  our  knowledge  of  this  vast  terri- 
tory ;  and  the  more  we  know  of  it  the  more  eligible 
it  seems  as  a  field  for  individual  enterprise,  and 
an  area  for  the  exercise  of  legitimate  Imperial  ambi- 
tion. 

From  Lake  Winnipeg  to  the  highest  navigable 
point  of  Red  River,  which  flows  into  the  lake  with  a 
course  from  north  to  south,  there  is  a  distance  of  575 
miles,  only  interrupted  by  some  very  insignificant 
shoals  at  the  mouth  of  Goose  River  and  the  Shay- 
enne.  Red  Lake  River  and  the  Assiniboina  extend 
the  area  of  "coast"  navigable  by  steamers  in  the 
Red  River  Valley  to  900  miles  —  much  more  than  is 
enjoyed  internally  by  the  United  Kingdom  and 
France  together.  Throughout  the  districts  thus  per- 
meated by  navigable  rivers,  rye,  oats,  barley,  potatoes, 
grass,  and  wheat,  grow  as  well  as  they  do,  in  Min- 
nesota; and  to  these  wild  regions  must  be  added  the 
country  along  the  great  north  Saskatchewan,  and 
even  the  region  which  lies  between  it  and  the  Rocky 
Mountains  in  a  northerly  direction.  When  Mr.  Tay- 
lor wrote  his  Report,  there  was  no  reason  to  believe 


THE  RED  RIVER  VALLEY. 


29;] 


J,  commerce, 


that  "an  adjiisttnont  of  the  future  relations  of  the 
British  Provinces  and  of  the  American  States  on  a 
basis  of  mutual  good-will  and  interest"  might  not  bo 
practicable;  but  Fort  Sumter  changed  all  that,  wo 
fear,  and  there  seems  little  chance  of  such  an  inter- 
national compact  as  he  anticipates  for  a  customs 
and  postal  union.  In  reference  to  such  an  adjust- 
ment he  says : — 

"  It  siM)uld,  at  all  events,  stipulate  that  the  Reci- 
procity Treaty,  enlarged  in  its  provisions  and  renewed 
for  a  long  period  of  years,  shall  be  extended  to  the 
Pacific  Ocean,  and,  in  conne^'tion  therewith,  all  laws 
discriminating  between  American  and  foreign  built 
vessels  should  be  abolished,  establishing  freedom  of 
navigation  on  all  the  intermediate  rivers  and  lakes 
of  the  respective  territories.  Such  a  policy  of  free 
trade  and  navigation  with  British  America  would 
give  to  the  United  States,  and  especially  to  the  west- 
ern States,  all  the  commercial  advantages,  without 
the  political  embarrassments,  of  annexation,  and 
virould,  in  the  sure  progress  of  events,  relieve  our  ex- 
tended northern  frontier  from  the  horrors  and  injuries 
of  war  between  fraternal  communities." 

It  is  little  to  be  doubted  that  the  people  of  Minne- 
sota are  very  well  disposed  to  remain  on  friendly 
terms  with  their  neighbors  ;  but  the  Federal  Govern- 
ment at  Washington,  no  matter  for  what  party  or 
section  it  acts,  must,  by  the  very  necessity  of  its 
being  and  conditions  of  power,  conduct  the  policy 
of  the  United  States  in  a  very  different  spirit.  It  is 
true  our  friends  have,  even  so  early,  given  some  in- 
dications that  they  are  prepared  for  eventualities. 

Whilst  they  have  not  been  indilferent  to  the  erec- 
tion of  a  military  post  at  Pembina,  some  of  their 
politicians,  with  a  ludicrous  pretence  of  fear  from 
the  colonists,  in  case  of  war,  have  called  for  the  cre- 
ation o.f  frontier  forts ;  and  the  Indians  in  the  north- 
west of  Minnesota,  who  had  a  reservation,  are  to  be 
treated  with  the  usual  measure  of  justice  used  by 
the  white  skin  in  dealing  with  the  red  skin,  and  to 


294 


CANADA. 


11     I 


be  exterminated  or  driven  into  space  as  soon  as  con- 
venient or  practicable.  Mr.  Taylor,  in  reference  to 
the  existence  of  coal  near  the  sources  of  the  Saskat- 
chewan, which  is  undoubted',  admits  the  uncertainty 
of  carboniferous  strata  in  the  ridges  between  the 
Minnesota  and  the  Red  River  north  of  the  Missis- 
sippi and  Saskatchewan,  though  there  are  geological 
reasons  to  hold  that  they  will  be  found  there.  In 
justice  to  the  spirit  in  which  this  Report  is  conceived, 
I  quote  the  concluding  passages  :  — 

"  The  allusion  j  .it  made  to  the  exploring  expedi- 
tion conducted  under  the  authority  of  Canada,  justi- 
fies a  tribute  to  the  zeal  and  intelligence  with  which 
the  enterprise  of  an  emigration  and  transportation 
route,  from  Fort  William  on  the  north  shore  of  Lake 
Superior,  to  Fort  Garry,  is  prosecuted.  With  the 
civil  organization  of  Central  British  America,  a 
wagon-road  between  those  points,  to  be  followed  by 
a  railroad,  will  receive  all  requisite  encouragement, 
certainly  from  the  Canadian  Treasury,  perhaps  by 
the  efficient  cooperation  of  the  Honie  Government. 
The  Northwest  Transit  Company,  acting  under  a 
Canadian  charter,  but  understood  to  have  enlisted 
London  capitalists,  is  expected  to  resume  operations 
during  the  summer  of  1860.  These  movements  of 
our  provincial  neighbors  cannot  fail  to  influence  the 
policy  of  Minnesota  in  favor  of  more  satisfactory 
communications  than  we  now  possess  between  Lake 
Superior  and  the  channels  of  the  Upper  Mississippi 
and  the  Red  River  of  the  north. 

"  I  desire,  in  conclusion,  to  express  my  obligations 
to  the  late  Executive  of  Minnesota,  for  the  confidence 
implied  by  the  commission  to  which  the  foregoing 
is  a  response.  Believing  firmly  that  the  prosperity 
and  development  of  this  State  is  intimately  associ- 
ated with  the  destiny  of  Northwest  British  America, 
I  am  gratified  to  record  the  rapid  concurrence  of 
events  which  indicate  that  the  frontier,  hitherto,  rest- 
ing upon  the  sources  of  the  St.  Lawrence  and  the 
Mississippi,  is  soon  to  be  pushed  far  beyond  the  in- 


THE  RED  RIVER  DISTRICT. 


295 


ternational  frontier  by  the  march  of  Anglo  -  Saxon 
civilization." 

It  is  indeed  "  a  country  worth  fighting  for  ;  "  and 
whether  the  contest  be  carried  on  by  the  slow  proc- 
esses of  immigration  or  by  the  ruder  agencies  of 
neglect,  the  conqueror  and  the  conquered  will  have 
reason  to  regard  the  result  with  very  decided  senti- 
ments of  joy  or  sorrow  at  no  distant  time.  In  the 
language  of  the  report  of  the  New  York  Chamber  of 
Commerce,  —  "  There  is  in  the  heart  of  North  Amer- 
ica a  distinct  sub-division,  of  which  Lake  Winnipeg 
may  be  regarded  as  the  centre.  This  sub-division, 
like  the  valley  of  the  Mississippi,  is  distinguished  for 
the  fertility  of  its  soil,  and  for  the  extent  and  gentle 
slope  of  its  great  plains,  watered  by  rivers  of  great 
length,  and  admirably  adapted  for  steam  navigation. 
It  has  a  climate  not  exceeding  in  severity  that  of 
many  portions  of  Canada  and  the  eastern  States. 
It  will,  in  all  respects,  compare  favorably  with  some 
of  the  most  densely  peopled  portions  of  the  continent 
of  Europe.  In  other  words,  it  is  admirably  fitted  to 
become  the  seat  of  a  numerous,  hardy,  and  prosperous 
community.  It  has  an  area  equal  to  eight  or  ten 
first-class  American  States.  Its  great  riv  j,  the  Sas- 
katchewan, carries  a  navigable  w^ater-line  to  the  very 
base  of  the  Kocky  Mountains.  It  is  not  at  all  im- 
probable that  the  valley  of  this  river  may  yet  ofl'er 
the  best  route  for  a  railroad  to  the  Pacific.  The 
navigable  waters  of  this  great  sub-division  interlock 
with  those  of  the  Mississippi.  The  Red  River  of  the 
north,  in  connection  with  Lake  Winnipeg,  into  which 
it  falls,  forms  a  navigable  water-line,  extending  di- 
rectly north  and  south  nearly  eight  hundred  miles. 
The  Red  River  is  one  of  the  best  adapted  to  the  use 
of  steam  in  the  world,  and  waters  one  of  the  finest 
regions  on  the  continent.  Between  the  highest  point 
at  which  it  is  navigable,  and  St.  Paul,  on  the  Mis- 
sissippi, a  railroad  is  in  process  of  construction  ;  and 
when  this  road  is  ccmnleted;  another  grand  division 


m^ 


296 


CANADA. 


of  the  continent,  comprising  half  a  million  square 
miles,  will  be  open  to  settlement." 

It  would  be  unjust  to  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company 
to  refuse  them  the  praise  due  to  the  efforts  of  their 
servants  in  exploring  the  vast  region  over  which  they 
ruled,  and  to  the  constancy  with  which  they  have 
resisted  aggression ;  but  as  the  privileges  ©f  that 
body  have  now  become  part  of  the  stock-in-trade  of 
a  great  mercantile  association,  there  can  be  no  rea- 
son for  doubting  that  a  change  of  policy,  in  conso- 
nance with  the  tone  of  the  governing  sentiment  of 
the  age,  will  take  place,  and  that  the  interests  of  free 
trade,  and  the  more  extensive  interests  connected 
with  Imperial  and  Colonial  progress  and  with  col- 
onization itself,  will  be  found  not  incompatible. 
When  the  ichthyophilists  of  London  betake  them- 
selves, in  the  leafy  month  of  June,  to  Gravesend, 
in  search  of  the  placid  turtle  or  the  strenuous  shrimp, 
they  may  be  startled  by  the  booming  of  guns  from 
the  bosom  of  the  river,  and  by  certain  loud  cheers 
from  two  strict-rigged  craft  anchored  in  the  stream. 
A  gayly  decked  river-steamer,  from  the  flag-staff  of 
which  flutters  a  hieroglyph  in  blue  and  white,  with 
the  motto,  "Pro  pelle  cutem^^  is  lying  alongside  the 
larger  of  the  two.  On  board  the  steamer  are  many 
sorts  and  conditions  of  men  —  the  friends  of  direc- 
tors, outlying  members  of  both  Houses,  old  salts  and 
older  commercial  personages,  and  men  wearing  the 
bright,  crisp,  clean  look  of  prosperous  clerkdom. 
These  circulate  from  the  deck  of  the  steamer  to  the 
broader  expanse  of  the  vessel  alongside,  where  a 
stout  weather-beaten  crew  are  drawn  up,  listening  to 
the  recital  of  articles.  Dipping  down  the  compan- 
ion it  is  probable  that  the  visitor  will  find  in  the  cap- 
tain's cabin  an  assemblage  of  gentlemen,  eating  bis- 
cuit and  drinking  sherry  to  the  health  of  the  skipper, 
whilst  others  are  peering  into  compartments  and 
berths  'twixt  bulkheads  filled  with  odd  merchandise, 
from  gas-pipe-barrelled  guns  to  needles,  anchors,  blan- 


THE  HUDSON'S  BAY  COMPANY. 


297 


m  conso- 


kets,  crinoline,  and  artificial  flowers.  They  are  peo- 
ple whom  we  might  meet  in  any  place  in  London 
from  west  to  east,  wearing  the  indescribable  air  of 
men  "  out  for  the  day."  On  deck  are  some  old-fash- 
ioned brass-bound  boxes,  inscribed  "  Hudson's  Bay 
Company,"  guarded  by  very  ancient  and  fish-like 
attendants,  in  a  red  and  blue  livery.  The  steamer 
leaves  the  bluff"  double-cased  sides  of  the  vessel  for 
a  visit  to  her  consort,  for  the  two  ships  nowadays 
form  the  sum  total  of  the  fleet  sailing  annually  to 
the  Hudson's  Bay  settlements,  where  once  there  was 
a  flotilla  of  smaller  craft,  dressed  in  all  their  bravery 
of  flags,  and  making  old  Gravesend  reecho  to  their 
salvos  as  they  went  forth  on  that  which  was  then 
a  dubious  and  adventurous  voyage.  Then,  after 
much  leave-taking,  and  drinking  of  anchor-cups,  the 
steamer  starts,  amid  the  cheers  of  the  outward-bound 
crew,  for  the  Nore,  to  enjoy  a  little  fresh  air  before 
she  comes  back  to  the  Falcon  at  Gravesend,  where 
the  annual  dinner  is  held,  and  where  many  good 
speeches  are  made  and  friendly  sentiments  expressed 
in  support  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company.  The 
sagacious  face  of  old  Edward  EUice,  seamed  with 
the  fine  graver  of  thought,  and  plastic  still  as  in 
youth,  for  many  a  long  year  fixed  men's  eyes  with 
kindly  regard  ;  and  the  mitis  sapientia  of  his  counsels, 
his  unrivalled  tact,  albMt  the  exquisite  touch  lay  in- 
side a  shagreen  glove,  and  his  great  ability  in  the 
conduct  of  affairs,  gave  the  Company  that  which 
Rupert's  charters,  Charles's  parchments,  or  prescrip- 
tive rights,  never  could  have  secured  so  long. 

It  was  under  Sir  E.  L.  Bulwer's  administration  of 
foreign  affairs  that  the  most  strenuous  attempt  was 
made  by  the  Government  to  adjust  the  conflicting 
claims  of  Canada  and  Great  Britain  with  those  of 
the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  by  the  decision  of  the 
Judicial  Committee  of  Privy  Council ;  but  the  Com- 
pany, though  always  willing  to  enter  into  an  arrange- 
ment with  the  Government  for  the  adjustment  of 


298 


CANADA. 


contending  interests,  uniformly  and  not  unwisely  re- 
fused to  accept  any  arbitration  or  judgment  involv- 
ing the  question  of  the  validity  of  their  charters. 
The  refusal  of  Parliament  to  renew  the  exclusive 
right  of  trading,  in  1859,  and  the  assumption  of  the 
control  of  Vancouver's  Island  by  the  Crown  on  the 
expiration  of  the  lease  in  the  same  year,  were  heavy 
blows  at  the  vested  interests  of  the  Company,  which 
deprived  its  cessio  bonorum  to  the  English  Credit 
Mobilier,  in  1863,  of  great  political  importance, 
though  enormous  commercial  results  may  still  be  ob- 
tained from  the  extension  of  trading  and  from  set- 
tling and  gold  -  exploring  operations.  When  the 
speedy  colonization  and  rapid  rise  of  British  Colum- 
bia caused  some  attention  to  be  directed  towards  the 
means  of  getting  there,  and  of  cultivating  an  ac- 
quaintance promising  such  great  advantages,  and  it 
was  found  that  from  east  to  west  two  routes  were 
practicable,  it  was  not  surprising  if  jealousy  and 
alarm  were  aroused  because  the  Americans,  by 
further  representations,  unhappily  baseless,  respect- 
ing the  energy  of  the  initiative  taken  by  Canada  and 
England,  had  first  started  to  clear  the  way  to  the 
west,  and  to  open  communications  with  the  Red 
River  settlement,  en  route.  Fort  Garry,  in  the  Sel- 
kirk settlemen,  was  first  visited  by  a  steamer  from 
the  American  post  of  Fort  Abercrombie,  in  1859. 
Minnesota  was  a  State  which  had  the  advantage  of 
a  continental  existence  on  the  soil  of  the  Great  Re- 
public. "  Organized  as  a  territory  in  1849,  a  single 
decade  had  brought  the  population,  the  resources, 
and  the  public  recognition  of  an  American  State. 
A  railroad  system,  connecting  the  lines  of  the  Lake 
States  and  Provinces  at  La  Crosse  with  the  inter- 
national frontier  on  the  Red  River  at  Pembina,  was 
not  only  projected,  but  had  secured  in  aid  of  its  con- 
struction a  grant  by  the  Congress  of  the  United 
States  of  three  thousand  eight  hundred  and  forty 
acres  a  mile,  and   a   loan  of  State   credit  to   the 


THE  NORTHWESTERN  REGIONS. 


299 


amount  of  twenty  thousand  dollars  a  mile,  not  ex- 
ceeding an  aggregate  of  five  million  dollars.  Dif- 
ferent sections  of  this  important  extension  of  the 
Canadian  and  American  railways  were  under  con- 
tract and  in  process  of  construction.  In  addition, 
the  land-surveys  of  the  Federal  Government  had 
reached  the  navigable  channel  of  the  Red  River; 
and  the  line  of  frontier  settlement,  attended  by  a 
weekly  mail,  had  ad\cinced  to  the  same  poi.^it.  Thus 
the  Government  of  the  United  States,  no  less  than 
the  people  and  authorities  of  Minnesota,  were  rep- 
resented in  the  northwest  movement." 

No  matter  how  prosperous  a  colony  of  Great 
Britain  may  be,  a  colony  it  must  be  so  long  as  it  is 
not  independent.  The  first  result  of  the  prosperity  of 
an  American  colony  is  its  independence  as  a  State 
and  its  incorporation  as  a  member  of  the  common 
sovereignty.  The  distinction  arises  from  geograph- 
ical considerations,  but  it  is  not  the  less  potent  —  I 
shall  not  yet  say,  more  to  be  regretted.  The  reten- 
tion of  Canada  would  be  of  little,  value  to  us  if 
there  were  to  the  west  of  it  a  great  and  populous 
community,  absorbing  its  capital,  labor,  and  enter- 
prise for  the  benefit  of  aliens,  and  if  to  the  south 
there  were  a  series  of  States  animated  by  an  intense 
political  dislike  to  the  mother-country.  But  there  is, 
as  they  say  in  Ireland,  "  the  makings  "  of  four  free 
and  independent  States,  on  the  American  model  of 
Ohio,  in  that  district  between  the  valleys  of  the 
North  and  South  Saskatchewan.  In  1858  an  Amer- 
ican writer  again  described  the  region  which  the 
British  Government,  the  Colonial  Office,  and  the  Im- 
perialism of  bureaus,  inclined  to  cast  away  without 
even  a  mess  of  pottage.     That  writer  says  :  — 

"  Here  is  the  great  fact  of  the  northwestern  areas 
of  this  continent.  An  area  not  inferior  in  size  to 
the  whple  United  States  east  of  the  Mississippi, 
which  is  perfectly  adapted  to  the  fullest  occupation 
by  cultivated  nations,  yet  is  almost  wholly  unoccu- 


300 


CANADA. 


|: 


pied,  lies  west  of  the  98th  meridian,  and  above  the 
43d  parallel,  that  is,  north  of  the  latitude  of  Milvvau- 
kie,  and  west  of  the  longitude  of  Red  River,  Fort 
Kearney,  and  Corpus  Christi ;  or,  to  state  the  fact  in 
another  way,  east  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and  west 
of  the  98th  meridian,  and  between  the  43d  and  60th 
parallels,  there  is  a  productive,  cultivable  area  of 
500,000  square  miles.  West  of  the  Rocky  Moun- 
tains and  between  the  same  parallels,  there  is  an  area 
of  300,000  square  miles. 

"  It  is  a  great  mistake  to  suppose  that  the  ter^per- 
ature  of  the  Atlantic  coast  is  carried  straight  across 
the  continent  to  the  Pacific.  Theisothermals  deflect 
greatly  to  the  north,  and  the  temperatures  of  the 
Northern  Pacific  are  paralleled  in  the  high  tempera- 
tures in  high  latitudes  of  Western  and  Central  Eu- 
rope. The  latitudes  which  inclose  the  plateaus  of 
the  Missouri  and  Saskatchewan,  in  Europe  inclose 
the  rich  central  plains  of  the  Continent.  The  great 
grain-growing  districts  of  Russia  lie  between  the  45th 
and  60th  parallel,  that  is,  north  of  the  latitude  of  St. 
Paul,  Minnesota,  or  Eeistport,  Maine.  Indeed,  the 
temperature  in  some  instances  is  higher  for  the  same 
latitudes  here  than  in  Central  Europe.  The  isother- 
mal of  70  deg.  for  the  summer,  which  on  our  plateau 
ranges  from  along  latitude  50  deg.  to  52  deg.,  in 
Europe  skirts  through  Vienna  and  Odessa  in  about 
parallel  46  deg.  The  isothermal  of  55  deg.  for  the 
year  runs  along  the  coast  of  British  Columbia,  and 
does  not  go  far  from  New  York,  London,  and  Se- 
bastopol.  Furthermore,  dry  areas  are  not  found 
above  47  deg.,  and  there  are  no  barren  tracts  of  con- 
sequence north  of  the  Bad  Lands  and  the  Coteau 
of  the  Missouri ;  the  land  grows  grain  finely,  and  is 
well  wooded.  AH  the  grains  of  the  temperate  dis- 
tricts are  here  produced  abundantly,  and  Indian  corn 
may  be  grown  as  high  as  the  Saskatchewan. 

"  The  buffalo  winters  as  safely  on  the  upper  Atha- 
basca as  in  the  latitude  of  St.  Paul,  and  the  sprang 


CLIMATE  OF  WINNIPEG  BASIN. 


301 


opens  at  nearly  the  same  time  along  the  immense 
line  of  plains  from  Si  Paul  to  Mackenzie's  River. 
To  these  facts,  for  which  there  is  the  authority  of 
Blodgett's  Treatise  on  the  Climatology  of  the  United 
States,  may  be  added  this,  that  to  the  region  border- 
ing the  Northern  Pacific,  the  finest  maritime  posi- 
tions belong  throughout  its  entire  extent,  and  no 
part  of  the  west  of  Europe  exceeds  it  in  the  advan- 
tages of  equable  climate,  fertile  soil,  and  commercial 
accessibility  of  coast.  We  have  the  same  excellent 
authority  for  the  statement  that  in  every  condition 
forming  the  basis  of  national  wealth,  the  continen- 
tal mass  lying  westward  and  northward  from  Lake 
Superior  is  far  more  valuable  than  the  interior  in 
lower  latitudes,  of  which  Salt  Lake  and  Upper  New 
Mexico  are  the  prominent  known  districts.  In  short, 
its  commercial  and  industrial  capacity  is  gigantic. 
Its  occupation  was  coeval  with  the  Spanish  occupa- 
tion of  New  Mexico  and  California." 

The  climate  of  this  district  is  at  least  as  favorable 
to  the  agriculturist  as  that  of  Kingston,  Upper  Can- 
ada, and  is  quite  salubrious.  Special  science  thus 
describes  it :  — 

Professor  Hind,  who  spent  two  summers  in  the 
country  in  charge  of  an  expedition  sent  out  by  the 
Canadian  Government,  writes :  "  The  basin  of  Lake 
Winnipeg  extends  over  twenty -eight  degrees  of 
longitude,  and  ten  degrees  of  latitude.  The  elevation 
of  its  eastern  boundary,  at  the  Prairie  Portage,  104 
miles  west  of  Lake  Superior,  is  1480  feet  above  the 
sea,  and  the  height  of  land  at  the  Vermillion  Pass  is 
less  than  5000  feet  above  the  same  level.  The  mean 
length  of  this  great  inland  basin  is  about  920  Eng- 
lish miles,  and  its  mean  breadth  380  miles ;  hence  its 
area  is  approximately  360,000  square  miles,  or  a  lit- 
tle more  than  that  of  Canada. 

"  Lake  Winnipeg,  at  an  altitude  of  628  feet  above 
the  sea,  occupies  the  lowest  depression  of  this  great 
inland  basin,  covering  with  its  associated  lakes,  Mani- 

14 


M't 


302 


CANADA. 


tobah,  Winnipegosis,  Dauphin,  and  St.  Martin,  an 
area  slightly  exceeding  13,000  square  miles,  or  nearly 
half  as  much  of  the  earth's  surface  as  is  occupied  by 
Ireland. 

"  The  outlet  of  Lake  Winnipeg  is  through  the 
contracted  and  rocky  channel  of  Nelson  River,  which 
flows  into  Hudson's  Bay. 

"  The  country,  possessing  a  mean  elevation  of  100 
feet  above  Lake  Winnipeg,  is  very  closely  repre- 
sented by  the  outline  of  Pembina  Mountain,  forming 
part  of  the  eastern  limit  of  the  cretaceous  series  in 
the  northwest  of  America. 

"  The  area  occupied  by  this  low  country,  which 
includes  a  large  part  of  the  valley  of  Red  River,  the 
Assiniboine,  and  the  main  Saskatchewan,  may  be 
estimated  at  70,000  square  miles,  of  which  nine 
tenths  are  lakes,  marsh,  or  surface  rock  of  Silurian 
or  Devonian  age,  and  generally  so  thinly  covered 
with  soil  as  to  be  unfit  for  cultivation,  except  in 
small  isolated  areas. 

••'  Succeeding  this  low  region  there  are  the  narrow 
terraces  of  the  Pembina  Mountain,  v/hich  rise  in 
abrupt  steps,  except  in  the  valleys  of  the  Assiniboine, 
Valley  River,  Swan  River,  and  Red  Deer's  River,  to 
the  level  of  a  higher  plateau,  whose  eastern  limit  is 
formed  by  the  precipitous  escarpments  of  the  Riding, 
Duck,  and  Porcupine  Mountains,  with  the  detached 
outliers.  Turtle,  Thunder,  and  Pasquia  Mountains. 
This  is  the  great  prairie  plateau  of  Rupert's  Land ; 
it  is  bounded  towards  the  southwest  and  west  by 
the  Grand  Coteau  de  Missouri,  and  the  extension  of 
the  table-land  between  the  two  branches  of  the  Sas- 
katchewan, which  forms  the  eastern  limit  of  the 
plains  of  the  northwest.  The  area  of  the  prairie 
plateau,  in  the  basin  of  Lake  Winnipeg,  is  about 
120,000  square  miles ;  it  possesses  a  mean  elevation 
of  1100  feci;  above  the  sea. 

"  The  plains  rise  gently  as  the  Rocky  Mountains 
are  approached,  and  at  their  western  limit  have  an 


AREA  OF  WINNIPEG   BASIN. 


303 


altitude  of  4000  feet  above  the  sea-level.  With  only 
a  very  narrow  belt  of  intervening  country,  the  moun- 
tains rise  abruptly  from  the  plains,  and  present  lofty 
precipices  that  frown  like  battlements  over  the  level 
country  to  the  eastward.  The  average  altitude  of 
the  highest  part  of  the  Rocky  Mountains  is  12,000 
feet  (about  lat.  51  deg.).  The  forest  extends  to  the 
altitude  of  7000  feet,  or  2000  feet  above  the  lowest 
pass. 

"  The  fertile  belt  of  arable  soil,  partly  in  the  form 
of  rich,  open  prairie,  partly  covered  with  groves  of 
aspen,  which  stretches  from  the  Lake  of  the  Woods 
to  the  foot  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  averages  80  to 
100  miles  in  breadth." 

Dr.  James  Hector,  and  all  the  explorers,  agree  in 
their  descriptions  of  this  region.  It  is  difficult  to 
reach ;  but  is  it  so  difficult  to  reach  as  the  shores  of 
America  itself  were  300,  or  200,  or  100  years  ago  ? 
We  cannot  conceive  what  a  century  has  done  in 
America,  or  at  home.  How  little,  then,  can  we  con- 
jecture what  the  next  fifty  years  will  effect  in  these 
distant  lands!  The  map,  which  now  is  crowded 
with  the  names  of  cities  where  red  men  roamed  in 
terra  incognita  so  recently  as  the  beginning  of  this 
century,  should  reprove  any  incredulity.  The  na- 
tions are  like  water.  When  a  country  is  filled  above 
its  capacity,  its  surplus  overflows.  As  soon  as  all 
the  eligible  districts  of  Canada  are  occupied,  the 
streams  of  settlers  will  pour  westwards;  tracks  and 
roads  will  be  made  ;  and,  if  the  land  be  good,  it  will 
soon  be  filled  with  people.  As  to  the  great  regions 
which  lie  to  the  west,  and  open  on  the  Pacific,  it  can 
only  be  said  that  they  are  to  us  what  California  was 
to  the  United  States  on  the  first  discovery  of  gold  ; 
and  that  after  fifty  years  they  may  be  less  than  Cali- 
fornia is  now,  if  steps  be  not  taken  to  bind  them  up 
with  British  interests,  and  to  oppose  the  American- 
ization with  which  they  are  threatened.  Without 
reference  to  the  Far  West,  or  the  Far  Northwest, 
without  regard  to  the  Red  River  and  Assiniboia  or 


304 


CANADA. 


'  (J 


I.      • 


li     ' 


n  -'ft' 


I&- 


to  British  Columbia,  there  is  before  us  the  great 
fact,  that  out  of  the  Canadas,  and  the  British  North 
American  Provinces  and  dependencies,  can  be  created 
a  powerful  Confederation  attached  to  this  country, 
and  capable  of  the  grandest  development  in  spite 
of  climatic  influences.  We  have  already  given  a 
slight  sketch  of  the  extent  and  capability  of  these 
provinces,  and,  hinted  at  the  difficulties  that  may 
arise  in  the  working  of  the  Confederation.  Canada 
is  now  more  than  threatened  with  the  loss  of  the 
advantages  which  were  supposed  to  depend  on  the 
Reciprocity  Treaty,  and  Great  Britain  is  formally 
warned  that  she  must  prepare  to  meet  Federal  en- 
croachments on  the  Lakes.  Mr.  Gait,  in  a  very 
ciuborate  speech,  exhaustive  of  the  topics  connected 
with  the  financial  aspect  of  the  future  Confederation, 
lately  laid  before  his  hearers  a  series  of  calculations 
which  deserve  close  attention,  and  which  are,  we 
believe,  entitled  to  full  confidence.  The  United 
States  at  the  end  of  the  year  1865  will  either  have 
effected  the  subjugation  of  the  South  by  the  destruc- 
tion of  all  her  armies  in  the  field,  or  she  will  see  an 
increase  to  her  debt  of  at  least  forty  millions  sterling, 
or  she  will  have  arranged  a  compromise  with  the 
South  of  which  one  feature  will  be  the  assumption 
of  the  Southern  debt.  In  the  first  case,  the  North 
must  prepare  for  a  long  and  costly  military  occupa- 
tion. In  no  case  as  yet  have  the  trade  and  com- 
merce of  any  Southern  port  or  city  subjugated  and 
held  by  Union  troops,  paid  the  Federal  Government 
for  the  cost  of  holding  it.  In  the  second  case,  in- 
crease of  taxation  must  fall  with  such  a  crushing 
weight  on  the  poorer  classes,  especially  in  the  agri- 
cultural States,  as  to  force  many  of  the  people  to 
take  refuge  in  Canada,  unless  deterred  by  unforeseen 
obstacles.  In  the  third  case,  the  immediate  result 
will  be  to  throw  on  the  Northern  States  for  some 
considerable  period  a  greater  amount  of  debt,  and 
of  consequent  derangement,  than  they  would  have 
been  subjected  to  by  either  of  the  preceding  condi- 


FINANCES  OF  THE  CONFEDERATION. 


305 


tions.  There  can  be  no  just  comparison  brf'tween 
the  United  States  and  the  projected  Confederation, 
except  in  the  ratio  of  taxation  per  capita.  And,  if 
we  take  incorne,  expenditure,  and  possible  debt  at 
the  end  of  1865,  and  contrast  the  financial  position 
of  the  British  Confederate  with  that  of  the  Ameri- 
can Federalist,  we  will  find  that  the  advantage  is 
decidedly  on  the  side  of  the  latter. 

According  to  the  Hon.  A.  T.  Gait,  the  following 
is  a  fair  statement  of  the  revenue  and  expenditure 
of  the  provinces,  of  the  debts  and  liabilities,  of  the 
trade,  exports  and  imports,  and  of  all  the  assets  and 
demands  by  which  the  future  Confederation  would 
be  influenced,  excluding  of  course  the  cost  of  such 
undertakings  as  great  intercolonial  roads  or  enlarge- 
ments of  canals.  Mr.  Gait  may  not  be  a  favorite 
with  some  theorists  of  the  Colonial  Office ;  he  cer- 
tainly is  not  popular  at  Washington,  and  he  is  not 
more  honored  at  home  than  most  prophets,  but  he  is 
an  able,  clear-headed,  trustworthy  man :  — 

THE  FINANCIAL  POSITION  OF  THE  PROVINCES. 

Debt,  1863.  Income,  18(j3.  Outlay,  1863. 
Nova  Scotia  ....  $4,858,547  $1,185,029  $1,072,274 
New  Brunswick      ....  5,702.991  899,991  884,61.3 

Newfoundland  (1802)  .        .        .         946,000  480,000  479,420 

Prince  Edward  Island    .        .        .    240,673  197,384  171,718 

Maritime  Provinces     .         $11,748,211        $2,763,004        $2,008,025 
Canada    ....       67,263,994  9,760,316         10,742,807 

Totals     .        .       $79,012,205      $12,523,320       $13,350,832 

INCREASED  REVENUES  IN  1864. 

Canada,  without  the  produce  of  the  new  taxes       .        .        $1,500,000 

New  Brunswick 100,000 

Nova  Scotia 100,000 

$1,700,000 

Deficit  of  1863 $827,512     

Surplus  of  1864 872,488 

$1,700,000 
Total  revenues  ofall  the  Colonies,  1804      ....         $14,223,320 
Outlay 13,350,832 

Estimated  Surplus $872,488 

20 


806 


CANADA. 


'SI'.' 


ji. 


THE  POSITION  OF  THE  CONFEDKRATTON,  ESTIMATED  ON 

THE  HASIS  OF  1804. 


Revenue  now 
pnxlucod  for 

Oonttnil 
Qoveruinent. 

Canada.  .  $11,250,000 
Nova  Scotia  .  1,.'{00,000 
Now  Brunswick  1,000,000 
Prince  EdwM  Isl'd  200,000 
Newfoundland    .      480,000 


Local  Revenues 
which  would 

not  ga  Into  the 
guneriil  (!hei*t. 

Sl,2n7,043 

107,000 

89,000 

32,000 

5,000 


Subsidy  to  be  Difference,  avail* 
paid  to  able  for  the 

each  purpoHAK  of  the 

Province,  flen'l  Oovernmont 

$2,000,121 
2«4,000 
204,000 
15.1,728 
.309,000 


$14,230,000  $1,530,043        $3,056,849  $9,643,108 


Canada, 
Nova  Scotia 
New  Brunswick     . 
Prince  Edward  Island 
Newfoundland 


Expenditure. 

$9,800,000 

1,222,565 

.      834,518 

171,718 

.      479,000 


Difference  paya- 
Local  Outlay.  ble  by  the 

Oen'l  Government. 
$2,260,149 
667,000 
424,047 
124,016 
479,000 


$12,507,591       $3,954,212 
Surplus  at  the  disposal  of  the  General  Government 


$8,553,379 
$1,089,7-26 


Canada    . 
Nova  Scotia  . 
New  Brunswick 


AVERAGE  OF  THE  PRESENT  TARIFFS. 

20  per  cent.  Newfoundland 

.   10      " 
16J     " 


Prince  Edward  Island 


11  per  cent. 

10       " 


FUTURE  POSITION  OF  THE  PROVINCES. 


Nova  Scotia  . 
New  Brunswick 
Prince  Edward  Island 
Newfoundland  . 


Canada 


Local  Revenues. 

$107,000 

89,000 

.     32,000 

5,000 

$233,000 
1,297,043 


$1,530,043 


Estimated  Outlay  Estimated  Local 

for  1864  under  Outlay  under 
present  Government,     the  Union. 

$667,000  371,000 

404,047  353,000 

171,718  124,015 

479,000  250,000 


$1,721,765 
*  2,021,979 
t       238,170 


$1,098,015 


t 


$3,981,914        t 


*  Average  of  the  last  four  years.  t  Interest  on  excess  of  debt. 

t  Not  estimated  by  Mr.  Oalt,  for  reasons  given  in  the  speech. 


IMPORTS,  EXPORTS,  AND  TONNAGE. 


307 


MATED  ON 


THE  AUDITOR'S  STATEMENT  OF  THE  LIABILITIES  OF  CANADA. 
Debenture  Debt,  direct  and  indiroct         ....        $05,238,640.21 


MiHcellaneous  Liabilitieii 

Connnnii-School  Fund 

Indiiin  Fund 

littukiii^  Accounts  .        .        .        .        . 

Seigniorial  Tenure:  — 
Capital  to  Seigniors 
Chargeable  on  MiinicipalitioH*  Fund 
On  account  of.IesnitH'  KHtateH 
ludeuinity  to  tlie  Tuwushipii 


Less  —  SInlting  Funds 

Ca»U  uud  Bank  Accounts 


(U, 420. 14 
1,181,U{>8.85 
l,f)77,«()2.4« 
3,aUU,<J82.8l 


$2,889,711,00 

.      100.710.08 

140,271.87 

,     801,500,00 


4,118,202.02 


$4,883,177.11 
2,248,801.87 


$76,578,022.09 


7,132,068.98 

$68,445,05a.ll 
From  which,  for  reasons  given  in  his  speech,  Mr.  Gait  de- 
ducted the  Common-School  Fund 1,181,958.86 


Leaving  as  Net  Liabilities 


$67,203,094.20 


IMPORTS,  EXPORTS,  AND  TONNAGE  OF  THE  PROVINCES. 


xcess  of  debt. 


Canada 
Nova  Scotia 
New  Brunswick    . 
Prince  Edward  Island 
Newfoundland    . 


Total  Trade 


Tmporti. 
$45,064,000 
10,201,301 

7,704,824 
.     1,428,028 

5,242,720 

$70,600,963 
66,846,604 

$137,447,567 


Exports. 

$41,831,000 
8,420,008 
8,964,784 
1,627,540 
6,002,312 


Sea-going  Tonnage. 
Inward  and  Outward. 

2,133,000 

1,432,954 

1,386,980 

No  returns, 
ti  ti 


$66,846,604  $4,952,934 

Lake  Tonnage  6,007,000 


Total  Tons 


11,859,934 


A  people  of  more  than   four  millions  will   owe 
something   over  13,000,000/.,  as  compared  with    a 

{)eople  of  thirty  millions  owing  900,000,000/.  ster- 
ing ;  and  with  a  trade  of  27,000,000/.  a-year  there 
is  no  compensating  power  in  any  commercial  superi- 
ority the  United  States  may  possess  to  establish  an 
equation.  If  the  expenses  of  the  local  and  of  the 
Federal  Governments  be  properly  kept  in  hand,  the 
condition  of  the  British  Confederation,  in  a  pecuni- 
ary point  of  view  at  all  events,  must  be  infinitely 
better  than  that  of  the  Federal  Union  either  by  itself 
or  with  the  Southern  States. 

The  Confederation  which  has  just  been  proposed 


if!" 


iiS-'y-<^ii£tit^^C^ 


308 


CANz^DA. 


by  delegates  at  Quebec,  and  which  "v^nll  come  before 
Parliaraerit  soon  after  this  volume  escapes  from  the 
printers,  vests  the  Executive  in  the  Sovereign  of 
Great  Britain ;  a  superfluous  investiture,  unless  the 
delegates  meant  rebellion;  and  it  provides  for  its 
administration  according  to  the  British  constitution, 
by  the  Sovereign  or  authorized  representative.  It 
does  not  appear  very  plain  how  the  Sovereign  of  a 
mixed  monarchy  with  a  limited  franchise  for  the  peo- 
ple can  administer  his  quasi-republican  and  unaris- 
tocratic  viceroyalty  according  to  the  principles  of  the 
British  constitution ;  particularly,  as  the  Sovereign  or 
his  representative  -is  to  be  the  Commander-in-Chief 
of  the  land  and  naval  forces  of  the  Confederation^ 
which  are  thus  expressly  removed  from  the  control 
of  the  War-Ofl[ice  at  home.  Difficulties  of  a  merely 
technical  character  will  no  doubt  be  overcome.  But 
the  King  of  Great  Britain  and  Ireland,  in  whom  the 
Executive  is  vested,  will  have  to  deal  with  a  Trans- 
atlantic House  of  Commons  founded  on  abstract 
returns  of  population,  and  elected  by  the  provinces 
according  to  their  local  laws ;  so  that  some  mem- 
bers will  represent  universal  suffrage,  and  others 
limited  constituencies,  which  is  very  different  indeed 
from  the  House  of  Commons  of  Great  Britain  and 
Ireland. 

In  the  Upper  House  a  Wensleydale  peerage  is  re- 
produced. It  is  to  consist  of  seventy-six  members 
nominated  by  the  Sovereign  for  life,  of  whom  twen- 
ty-four are  assigned  to  Upper  Canada,  and  twenty- 
four  to  Lower  Canada,  ten  for  Nova  Scotia,  ten  for 
New  Brunswick,  four  for  Newfoundland,  and  four 
for  Prince  Edward  Island.  The  Lower  House,  far 
less  aristocratic  in  its  relations  to  Lower  and  Upper 
Canada,  has  eighty-two  members  from  the  latter, 
and  sixty-five  from  the  former,  nineteen  from  Nova 
Scotia,  fifteen  /or  New  Brunswick,  eight  for  New- 
foundland, and  five  for  Prince  Edward  Island.  "  Sav- 
ing the  Sovertigntv  of  England,"  the  powers  of  the 


PROPOSED  FEDERAL  CONSTITUTION. 


309 


k 


Federal  Parliament,  as  enumerated  under  thirty-seven 
different  heads,  are  very  large,  and  on  such  heads  as 
currency  and  coinage  seem  to  trench  on  dangerous 
ground,  and  in  the  last  head  of  all  are  dangerously 
vague.  The  appointment  of  the  Lieutenant-Gov- 
ernor by  the  Federal  Government  itself  is  obviously 
open  to  exception,  because  it  is  anomalous ;  but  as 
all  the  principles  as  well  as  the  details  of  the  measure 
will  receive  the  most  careful  consideration,  it  is  not 
necessary  to  treat  the  proposal  as  an  accomplished 
fact,  although  it  certainly  is  most  desirable  to  treat 
every  article  with  respectful  attention,  and  to  give 
every  weight  to  the  expressed  opinion  of  the  dele- 
gates. Among  the  objects  specially  indicated  for 
the  future  action  of  the  Confederate  or  Federal 
Government  are  the  completion  of  the  Intercolonial 
Railway  from  Riviere  du  Loup  to  Truro,  in  Nova 
Scotia,  through  the  Province  of  New  Brunswick,  and 
the  completion  of  communication  with  the  North- 
western territories,  so  as  to. open  the  trade  to  the 
Atlantic  sea-coast ;  both  to  be  effected  as  soon  as  the 
Federal  finances  permit.  Here  there  is  the  most 
tangible  proposal  for  the  opening  up  of  the  great 
regions  to  which  I  have  called  attention ;  and  the 
Valley  of  the  Saskatchewan  is  promised  the  facility 
which  is  alone  wanting  to  make  it  the  seat  of  a 
flourishing  colony.  When  the  Red  River  Settlement 
is  once  connected  with  Lake  Superior,  the  way  to 
the  sea  is  open,  but  the  advantages  of  access  to  the 
world  will  be  increased  enormously  as  soon  as  the 
railway  is  pushed  on  to  the  shores  of  Lake  Huron 
from  Nova  Scotia. 

*  So  eager  is  one  to  grasp  at  the  benefits  which  some 
sucli  Confederation  promises  to  confer,  that  the  perils 
to  the  prerogative  of  the  Crown,  and  to  the  body  so 
formed,  are  apt  to  lie  hid  <rom  view.  But  they  must 
be  well  guarded  against ;  and  I  for  one  am  persuaded 
that  it  would  be  far  better  for  us  to  see  the  Provinces 
of  British  America  independent  than  to  behold  them 

14* 


310 


CANADA. 


. » 


incorporated  with  the  Northern  Republic.  The  great- 
est of  all  these  internal  perils  is  in  the  maintenance 
of  the  Local  Parliaments,  which  may  come  into  col- 
lision with  the  Federal  Government  on  local  ques- 
tions impossible  to  foresee,  or  define,  or  adjust;  but 
as  the  delegates  considered  the  plan  of  a  complete 
Legislative  Union  quite  incompatible  with  the  re- 
served rights  of  a  portion  of  the  Confederation,  the 
only  way  left  to  escape  the  mischiefs  which  threaten 
the  future  life  of  the  new  body  is  to  bind  those  Local 
Parliaments  within  the  most  narrow  limits,  consistent 
with  local  utility  and  existence. 

It  is  not  for  the  s^ke  of  our  future  connection,  but 
for  their  own  integrity  and  happiness  that  such  a 
course  is  recommended.  They  have  "  an  awful  ex- 
ample "  at  their  doors.  The  torrents  of  blood  which 
have  deluged  the  soil  of  the  North  American  Repub- 
lics all  welled  out  of  the  little  chink  in  the  corner- 
stone of  the  Constitution,  on  one  side  of  which  lay 
States'  Rights,  and  on  the  other  Federal  Authority. 
Without  some  justification  in  law  and  in  argument, 
such  men  as  Calhoun,  and  Stephens,  and  Davis, 
would  never  have  reasoned,  and  planned,  and  fought, 
and  worked  a  whole  people  up  to  make  war  against 
the  Union.  Sad  as  the  spectacle  is  of  a  community 
of  freemen  waging  war  against  the  principles  of  self- 
government,  it  must  be  admitted  that  theii;  instinct 
may  be  sounder  than  their  reasoning,  and  that  they 
are  engaged  in  a  struggle  for  self-preservation,  in 
which  they  have  swelled  their  proportions  into  that 
of  a  gigantic  despotism,  but  have  after  all  attained 
a  giant's  port  and  strength.  It  is  impossible  to  say 
whether  the  corruption  which  Montesquieu  has  de- 
clared to  be  the  destruction  of  a  democracy,  has  yet 
seized  upon  the  tremendous  impersonation  of  brute 
force,  of  unconquerable  will,  of  passion,  of  lust  of 
empire,  which  now  rules  in  the  Capitol,  and  occupies 
the  throne  whereon  feebly  sat  heretofore  the  mild  im- 
puissance  of  the  old  Federal  Executive ;  but  if  the 


LESSONS  FROM  THE  AMERICAN  STRUGGLE.        311 

pictures  which  have  been  presented  to  us  be  true, 
there  is  a  prophetic  meaning  in  the  words  of  the  phil- 
osophic Frenchman,  — "  Les  politiques  grecs,  qui 
vivaient  dans  le  gouvernement  populaire,  ne  recon- 
naissaient  d'autre  force  qui  put  le  soutenir  que  celle 
de  la  vertu.  Ceux  d'aujourd'hui  ne  nous  parlent  que 
des  manufactures,  de  commerce,  de  finances,  de 
richesse,  et  de  luxe  meme."  The  giant's  feet  may  be 
of  clay,  and  his  body  may  be  of  that  artificial  stiffen- 
ing which  gives  to  worthless  stuffs  a  temporary  sub- 
stantiality, but  behind  the  giant  stand  the  great 
American  people,  with  hands  dyed  in  their  brothers' 
gore,  and  who,  having  sacrificed  friendship,  traditions, 
constitution,  and  liberty  at  home,  will  think  but  little 
of  adding  to  the  pyre  of  their  angry  passions  the 
peace   and   happiness  of  others. 


THE    END. 


